NewZed

"Crank" and "turn over" usually mean what the starter does. Rotate the engine's crankshaft. "Start" or "fire" would be when you get combustion. "Fully crank over" kind of implies that you heard a few pops, and it tried to start, but didn't. But it's unclear. A person would crank the engine, or turn it over, to get it to start or fire. "Crank over" isn't really a thing. The key to getting any engine to start is getting all of the moving parts moving and actuating in their proper timing. The valves need to open and close, and the spark needs to happen, when the piston is in the right spot. Check your cam timing, ignition timing, and whether or not the injectors are opening. Probably good to know also, 100%, what trigger wheel you have since MS is depending on that to do all of its work. Garbage in, garbage out.

The second set of points isn't 180 off. Dual point distributor has nothing to do with your problem, it was just a distraction for you. You had the fairly common 180 off issue. A quick check under the distributor cap would have cleared things up.

You missed the point. Your wires may have been in the "wrong" position before you changed them Wrong by the diagrams (that show the "right" way) but right by the distributor drive tang position. Which can be "wrong" yet still give an engine that runs. If you move the plug wires to the right spot. But it's looking like you did many things at one time. not even clear that the engine has ever run for you. So, checking the rotor position is a basic step that you should do. It needs to point at #1 when #1 is supposed to fire. You haven't confirmed that. You said that you checked it but didn't sya that you checked where it was pointing. Also, if you installed a new triggering unit (the Pertronix), it may not be triggering at the same spot as the points. Think in terms of trigger position, and rotor position when the trigger happens. Good luck.

Did you write down or draw what the firing order was before you replaced the wires? Many many people have been on here describing how they got their oil pumps installed wrong, then taking advice to just move the wires over one position. Could be that yours was wrong to begin and you just need to make it wrong again. Lift the distributor cap and see where the rotor points with the timing mark on about 10 degree, compression stroke. You may have said in your video but two minutes is too long to watch a video about spark plug wires.

Once you get in to the test sections and start taking measurements and finding problems and things that are right, you'll wonder why you waited so long.

I'd test at the ignition module. You can have continuity to the engine bay AND a short to ground. If it;s shorted it won't work.. Measure resistance, get a number, across green and red and then green and brown. Green is common to both.

Just use one of the two, but make sure it actually works. If pickup coil resistance is correct, it will probably work. Could be that your whole problem right now is just a bad pickup coil. Mine had one. You could go through this whole scenario again, but with a GM HEI module.

There's actually a test procedure for the dual pickup units in the Engine Electrical chapter of the FSM. Disconnecting the white wire is part of the test. So that's not really a problem. Could be that you did something else while you were there that is causing problems. You say no spark, but are you sure it's not no fuel? My car wouldn't start with the tachometer disconnected. The ECU didn't like the signal from the coil, on Pin 1. Did you do more deleting thanjust the water temperature circuit. I'd open up the FSM and test the distributor parts. Your wiring looks fine.

Wire it up the way it was wired up. The green wire from the distributor has to have continuity to the green wire at the module. Same with the red. Might as well do the brown wire too, just in case. You're making it more complicated than it is. You haven't even confirmed that the distributor is still actually connected to the module. You might have deleted a different wire by accident or ripped it loose. Use a meter and suss it out. Don't be so vague in your descriptions either. It will help you think. Literally, what you're saying with all your variations of "delete" is that you stripped the white wire completely free of the harness and the car, from the ignition module to the engine bay and engine. Every trace of white wire is gone. Did you do that? Have you actually looked at the ignition module? It's not clear. "I ripped a bunch of wires out of my engine bay and my engine doesn't run anymore". That's all that can be discerned from your words.. I ran my 76 module for many miles with no water temperature switch. I also used a 78 module for a while after my 76 module died. Then a GM HEI module. The red wire and the green wire are the key. You could go directly to the GM HEI module if you've somehow damaged your factory module. But you'll still need to confirm connections.

He also says that nothing else is required except that one wire. Not even finding a spot for the pressure switch. Seems like that would be worth mentioning.

He refers to RPM in the eBay copy. Warning signs everywhere.

What do you mean by "deleted"? Obviously you need to go back to the diagram and give the module what it needs. Try the Engine Electrical chapter. It describes how things work. And use the link below for a good diagram. Make sure the red and green wires are actually connected to the module. Use a meter or test light. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/76_280z_wiring.pdf

You two are talking about what could be, and should be, but the HPSI guy says "one wire cut" for installation and RPM control. Not pressure control. Considering his monologue in the video, with technical jargon and terms like "muffler delete" (who says that?), you might be on the path he intended, thinking that it's more than what it really is. It may look like a Hobbs switch control system, but it probably isn't. And there's no Nissan literature that says the 280Z L-Jet system is fixed map above a certain RPM. The ECU sees one coil fire at a time and adjusts accordingly. No step changes, based on RPM level. Maybe the 280ZX ECCS uses RPM levels, but this guy is advertising for all of the L-Jets. One magic black box fits all. The fact that he calls it a black box is warning enough. He's basically saying if you buy this you deserve what you get, for not looking in to what it.is Like buying Marvel "Mystery" Oil.

Nissan gives somewhat conflicting information about "full enrichment". They say it's 27% more than the base pulse, but say that the base pulse is before the other enrichments. Then show a chart with full on top of, after, the other enrichments. I think that they mean an extra 27% of base pulse is added on top of all other enrichments. Everything derives from the base pulse. No RPM set point, it's all base pulse plus enrichment with one big jump due to throttle position, at 30 degrees (the 280Z have idle, nothing, and wide open settings).

Find out what the "one wire" is and all will be clear. The L-Jetronic system is very simple. I think that he's playing word games, implying that the "black box" is controlling by saying that the O2 sensor takes over. Lots of technical jargon intended to add sophistication to a simple system. I'd say it's a scam, but it will work. It's meant to take advantage of people who don't do their own homework. The ECU always uses the sensor signal.

Looks like this - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html I don't see how he can monitor RPM and control the "fuel level signal" using just one wire. Looks like it's just the coolant temperature sensor tweak. Looks like an average guy who's trying to make a few bucks off of the mystery of EFI. It's Innovate not Innovative. "Stage 2" injectors? Rear muffler delete? Implying that the black box shuts off at cruise but attributing control to the O2 sensor. Don't look behind the curtain. $200 for a potentiometer and some wire. Easy money. http://www.hpsimotorsports.com/ " Two factors can be adjusted. You can control exactly when the system signals the ECU to send in more fuel and you can alter how much extra fuel is added. The amount of fuel is not infinitely adjustable however we include 25 settings which will provide enough range of adjustment for almost everyone. The device on my car is set to trigger at 5500rpm and adds enough fuel to handle 10 pounds of boost on my Alfa Romeo 2.5L with Stage 2 injectors. Keep in mind, in stock form this car is normally aspirated, so that's 10psi over stock. Without the device the car starts to lean out at 5500 rpm and would be dangerously lean by 6000 rpm. Now at 5500 the car accelerates noticeably harder and the mixture stays in line up to 6500+ rpm. Installation -Installation is simple and only requires one wire on the car to be cut. It does not require removal of the ECU, soldering or anything else. It's very small and can be hidden or mounted just about anywhere. What's in the Black Box Kit? -Everything pictured in the kit is all you will need to get up and running. Pictured above is our Black Box control knob mounted on a gauge set we installed. You are free to mount and install anywhere you would like If you want to make this box yourself and save some money, instructions are included in my supercharging book, available on this site, or on our website.

Use the correct nuts. Lots of ways to feel right but be wrong.

So which is it? And what do you mean by "snug"?

Looks like a very nice Nissan rebuilt engine that is probably worth more than a used Nissan engine. I'd pay more. So your next question will be "how much is it worth" And the answer will be whatever somebody pays for it. You found a nice find. Not a whole lot more to the situation. What are are you planning to do with it? Modern technology has advanced to where it's probably cheaper to buy a bore scope (depending on your phone or computer) to check the bores than a new head gasket. Bore condition would be interesting, as noted above.

Sounds like you're saying that your engine doesn't smooth out after starting as quickly as it used to. Sometime there's a smell. And your idle speed hangs high. I'm not really seeing a connection, or much of a problem. When did it last have a tune-up? The sulfur smell is a product of the gasoline quality, I believe. And the hanging idle could be a gummed up throttle blade. Gunk from the PCV system can coat the intake all the way back to the throttle body. A good tune-up and cleaning of the throttle body might get you back to normal.

Actually, the cap is vented. A little valve in the center, hard to see, to let air in. And a vent line up to the charcoal canister to let air out. If your cap vent was clogged it might cause your tank to collapse but both inlet and return lines in the tank see the same vacuum or pressure, so fuel pressure at the injectors would still be maintained. Could be that you just had a bad tank of gas. Or something is floating around in the tank and it clogged your outlet port. Filling the tank dislodged it. It might come back. Good luck. The pump doesn't run at key On-engine not running, only Start and engine running. The Service Manual is full of good descriptions.

The cross member can take a much harder hit than any oil pan. Why even consider exposing the oil pan as the low point? You'll be thinking about only one thing whenever you see a bump.

Looks like you did not disconnect the vacuum hose from the FPR before measuring. 32 is close for idle but a bit high, showing low intake vacuum. Intake vacuum pulls fuel pressure down. But there are other things that can cause low intake vacuum. Valve lash, for one. You can either restart the engine with with the hose disconnected from the FPR, or just remove the small yellow wire from the starter solenoid and turn the key to Start. Fuel pressure should be 36-37 psi, with no intake vacuum correction. For whatever reason,many of the original AFM's, even though they test out as good, run lean and need the "fuel tweak". That's why there's a complete write-up on it. Could be that Nissan tuned them to the edge for emissions and economy back in the 70's, and now that we have 10% ethanol everywhere and no-lead and other formulation changes, the tune is too lean today. If you get good fuel pressure, go to the fuel tweak. You'll be able to drive it while you're fixing other small problems.

This tip will probably make the engine run right, although the original problem might remain - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html Fuel pressure is critical. It needs to be known. A weak pump, or a clogged filter or tank can cause your problem. Vacuum leaks can also cause a lean condition. The intake system, including the crankcase (PCV) needs to be sealed from outside air. All air must pass through the AFM. I spent a lot of time tuning my car, then found that several of my injectors were clogged. The car sat for quite a while before I got it. Your AFM numbers look great. Don't mess with the AFM spring unless you're positive it's already been messed with. Numerous people have got lost inthe AFM internals and ended up buying new ones because they didn't know how to get back to where they started. Mark your starting point if you get in there. There should be a blob of glue on the set screws for the cog, use a bright light and magnifying glass to see if they've been broken. The side cover just pries straight off, no clips holding it in place. The problem is very very common.

You do have some odd things going on. But, as noted, the narrow band O2 sensor is only really useful for the ECU to use at cruising conditions, to trim the injector open times. It's useless as a gauge, it only shows three states - lean, stoichiometric and rich. You can't see "full rich" on a narrow band O2 sensor. It's not in the the ball park. So that leaves puffs of black smoke, "poor" mileage, and the lack of response to the CHTS sensor. An actual mileage number might remove that one, leaving just two things that may or may not matter. Numbers, numbers, numbers.