NewZed

He also says that nothing else is required except that one wire. Not even finding a spot for the pressure switch. Seems like that would be worth mentioning.

He refers to RPM in the eBay copy. Warning signs everywhere.

What do you mean by "deleted"? Obviously you need to go back to the diagram and give the module what it needs. Try the Engine Electrical chapter. It describes how things work. And use the link below for a good diagram. Make sure the red and green wires are actually connected to the module. Use a meter or test light. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/76_280z_wiring.pdf

You two are talking about what could be, and should be, but the HPSI guy says "one wire cut" for installation and RPM control. Not pressure control. Considering his monologue in the video, with technical jargon and terms like "muffler delete" (who says that?), you might be on the path he intended, thinking that it's more than what it really is. It may look like a Hobbs switch control system, but it probably isn't. And there's no Nissan literature that says the 280Z L-Jet system is fixed map above a certain RPM. The ECU sees one coil fire at a time and adjusts accordingly. No step changes, based on RPM level. Maybe the 280ZX ECCS uses RPM levels, but this guy is advertising for all of the L-Jets. One magic black box fits all. The fact that he calls it a black box is warning enough. He's basically saying if you buy this you deserve what you get, for not looking in to what it.is Like buying Marvel "Mystery" Oil.

Nissan gives somewhat conflicting information about "full enrichment". They say it's 27% more than the base pulse, but say that the base pulse is before the other enrichments. Then show a chart with full on top of, after, the other enrichments. I think that they mean an extra 27% of base pulse is added on top of all other enrichments. Everything derives from the base pulse. No RPM set point, it's all base pulse plus enrichment with one big jump due to throttle position, at 30 degrees (the 280Z have idle, nothing, and wide open settings).

Find out what the "one wire" is and all will be clear. The L-Jetronic system is very simple. I think that he's playing word games, implying that the "black box" is controlling by saying that the O2 sensor takes over. Lots of technical jargon intended to add sophistication to a simple system. I'd say it's a scam, but it will work. It's meant to take advantage of people who don't do their own homework. The ECU always uses the sensor signal.

Looks like this - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html I don't see how he can monitor RPM and control the "fuel level signal" using just one wire. Looks like it's just the coolant temperature sensor tweak. Looks like an average guy who's trying to make a few bucks off of the mystery of EFI. It's Innovate not Innovative. "Stage 2" injectors? Rear muffler delete? Implying that the black box shuts off at cruise but attributing control to the O2 sensor. Don't look behind the curtain. $200 for a potentiometer and some wire. Easy money. http://www.hpsimotorsports.com/ " Two factors can be adjusted. You can control exactly when the system signals the ECU to send in more fuel and you can alter how much extra fuel is added. The amount of fuel is not infinitely adjustable however we include 25 settings which will provide enough range of adjustment for almost everyone. The device on my car is set to trigger at 5500rpm and adds enough fuel to handle 10 pounds of boost on my Alfa Romeo 2.5L with Stage 2 injectors. Keep in mind, in stock form this car is normally aspirated, so that's 10psi over stock. Without the device the car starts to lean out at 5500 rpm and would be dangerously lean by 6000 rpm. Now at 5500 the car accelerates noticeably harder and the mixture stays in line up to 6500+ rpm. Installation -Installation is simple and only requires one wire on the car to be cut. It does not require removal of the ECU, soldering or anything else. It's very small and can be hidden or mounted just about anywhere. What's in the Black Box Kit? -Everything pictured in the kit is all you will need to get up and running. Pictured above is our Black Box control knob mounted on a gauge set we installed. You are free to mount and install anywhere you would like If you want to make this box yourself and save some money, instructions are included in my supercharging book, available on this site, or on our website.

Use the correct nuts. Lots of ways to feel right but be wrong.

So which is it? And what do you mean by "snug"?

Looks like a very nice Nissan rebuilt engine that is probably worth more than a used Nissan engine. I'd pay more. So your next question will be "how much is it worth" And the answer will be whatever somebody pays for it. You found a nice find. Not a whole lot more to the situation. What are are you planning to do with it? Modern technology has advanced to where it's probably cheaper to buy a bore scope (depending on your phone or computer) to check the bores than a new head gasket. Bore condition would be interesting, as noted above.

Sounds like you're saying that your engine doesn't smooth out after starting as quickly as it used to. Sometime there's a smell. And your idle speed hangs high. I'm not really seeing a connection, or much of a problem. When did it last have a tune-up? The sulfur smell is a product of the gasoline quality, I believe. And the hanging idle could be a gummed up throttle blade. Gunk from the PCV system can coat the intake all the way back to the throttle body. A good tune-up and cleaning of the throttle body might get you back to normal.

Actually, the cap is vented. A little valve in the center, hard to see, to let air in. And a vent line up to the charcoal canister to let air out. If your cap vent was clogged it might cause your tank to collapse but both inlet and return lines in the tank see the same vacuum or pressure, so fuel pressure at the injectors would still be maintained. Could be that you just had a bad tank of gas. Or something is floating around in the tank and it clogged your outlet port. Filling the tank dislodged it. It might come back. Good luck. The pump doesn't run at key On-engine not running, only Start and engine running. The Service Manual is full of good descriptions.

The cross member can take a much harder hit than any oil pan. Why even consider exposing the oil pan as the low point? You'll be thinking about only one thing whenever you see a bump.

Looks like you did not disconnect the vacuum hose from the FPR before measuring. 32 is close for idle but a bit high, showing low intake vacuum. Intake vacuum pulls fuel pressure down. But there are other things that can cause low intake vacuum. Valve lash, for one. You can either restart the engine with with the hose disconnected from the FPR, or just remove the small yellow wire from the starter solenoid and turn the key to Start. Fuel pressure should be 36-37 psi, with no intake vacuum correction. For whatever reason,many of the original AFM's, even though they test out as good, run lean and need the "fuel tweak". That's why there's a complete write-up on it. Could be that Nissan tuned them to the edge for emissions and economy back in the 70's, and now that we have 10% ethanol everywhere and no-lead and other formulation changes, the tune is too lean today. If you get good fuel pressure, go to the fuel tweak. You'll be able to drive it while you're fixing other small problems.

This tip will probably make the engine run right, although the original problem might remain - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html Fuel pressure is critical. It needs to be known. A weak pump, or a clogged filter or tank can cause your problem. Vacuum leaks can also cause a lean condition. The intake system, including the crankcase (PCV) needs to be sealed from outside air. All air must pass through the AFM. I spent a lot of time tuning my car, then found that several of my injectors were clogged. The car sat for quite a while before I got it. Your AFM numbers look great. Don't mess with the AFM spring unless you're positive it's already been messed with. Numerous people have got lost inthe AFM internals and ended up buying new ones because they didn't know how to get back to where they started. Mark your starting point if you get in there. There should be a blob of glue on the set screws for the cog, use a bright light and magnifying glass to see if they've been broken. The side cover just pries straight off, no clips holding it in place. The problem is very very common.

You do have some odd things going on. But, as noted, the narrow band O2 sensor is only really useful for the ECU to use at cruising conditions, to trim the injector open times. It's useless as a gauge, it only shows three states - lean, stoichiometric and rich. You can't see "full rich" on a narrow band O2 sensor. It's not in the the ball park. So that leaves puffs of black smoke, "poor" mileage, and the lack of response to the CHTS sensor. An actual mileage number might remove that one, leaving just two things that may or may not matter. Numbers, numbers, numbers.

Not sure who Wal is, but here's one - http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/1-wiring-diagrams/

How about FPR performance? Missing vaccum hose maybe, or connected to wrong source.

There are a couple of bullet connectors in between the CHTS and the computer. Could be dirty or shorted. That's why the numbers are needed.

What numbers did you get? Did you get an open circuit when you disconnected the CHTS? Do the resistance numbers match the chart? Are you testing the right pins, 1983 ECCS? The answer's in the details. "Did it" isn't enough.

Test the CHTS pins at the ECU connector.

You might have a noisy ignition circuit, on your Hz reading. Could be sign of a failing ignition module. Or you used AC instead of DC, or need a better meter. Who knows. People have reported sticky needles causing tach problems. Could be when you had it apart you torqued something. Maybe take it apart again again and twist things around a little until the needle moves more freely. Could even be a piece of goo on the needle stop. Or there's a zero adjustment that needs a turn, or got turned. The other gauges have some adjustment screws on the back, some are usable and some are glued once set. Worth another look. Apparently the voltage tachs work like volt meters, averaging each pulse over time. Maybe you've got a an offsetting ground loop on the tach ground. That's just a WAG. You could jump the terminals while it's out and see if it you can make it work right. The diagram is in the FSM.

Don't give it all away! Gotta leave some fun...Four cycle engine, six cylinders, RPM, and all that.

You'd be measuring coil discharges. Voltage changes that your meter will count. In events per second, aka hertz.

The internet says that new is still available. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/2 http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-assy-strut~55303-n3425.html