NewZed

Read John Coffey's recommendations also. The roll cage seems to cover all bases. A frame in a box.

The Z cars are a monococque, or unibody, chassis. Essentially just steel boxes with stiffening elements, either extra "rails" or bends, strategically placed around the box. And the stiffening is done to specific purposes. You're implying that you'll be drag-racing since you're talking about high power. Thicker subframe connectors might be oversimplifying your situation. Generally, people recommend a full cage if you really want to stiffen things up. SunnyZ and RebekahsZ do drag-racing. Read through their past threads.

You are correct.

Search "wrong clutch collar" or "wrong TOB" or "transmission grinds" or "92 mm" and you'll figure it out. Did you match the TOB collar to the pressure plate? That's the most important act when installing a new clutch.

Ponder a complete set of combustion events (two revolutions) and you'll realize that there are always valves open. Look closer and you'll probably see that there are more than just two open.

Another reference source for you is the FSM. The specs. for the master and slave are not called out differently for NA and Turbo even though the disc and pressure plate are. A clue.

Rockauto and Autozone show the same. I think that parts guys you're talking to aren't really looking at the part, just the fact that their database requires them to choose a car. The clutches are the same. The only reason to use a slave cylinder would be if the master cylinder is a different bore size or the pivot point in the transmission was different, requiring a different clutch fork also. None of this is the case. When you go in to today's auto parts stores, you tell the parts people what's what. Never take advice from a parts person at one of the big chains.

Data from the WWW.

You have to pick one. The only way to fit your words is that the clutch is in a state of constant slippage. Is this a new problem on a system that was working fine? Or is it a bunch of new parts that aren't working right?

Common problem. The site owner just hasn't clarified that you have to be a donating member to post a For Sale ad. Besides that you're breaking the Rules. Post a price. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113791-classifieds-rules/

Since you can read a diagram and know the wiring the best thing you could do now is to sit down and draw up a new diagram for all of the things that you want to use. The answers to your questions will fall out of figuring out where to draw the lines.

I suggest that you stop thinking in terms of Megasquirt and computers and switches and focus on how electronic engine management systems work. Understand what the engine needs then use your Playstation skills to give it what it needs. Read the EFEC, and the Engine Electrical, chapters of the FSM and you'll be way ahead of where you are now. You're approaching your project from the wrong side. Here's another good starter book, written by the guys that run DIYAutotune. It covers most of what you're asking about. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/performance-fuel-injection-systems-hp-books/ http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Fuel-Injection-Systems-HP1557/dp/1557885575

You're way behind where you need to be. Does the car run and drive now? Because it will be down for a long time if you start tearing in to it. Is it an automatic transmission car or are you talking about controlling the various switches on a manual transmission car? Where does Rasperry PI come in to the picture? Any old computer will work for tuning. Most people use the word "launch" to mean leaving the line in drag-racing. You mean "start". And it's not the soldering that's important it's making the right connections. If you're asking about a kill switch and a start button, Megasquirt is going to be a nightmare for you. https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/raspberry-pi-compute-module-new-product/

Avoid thought processes that lead to random collections of words. Good that you mentioned that you talked to someone at DIY, but have you looked anywhere else? You know how to solder and read a diagram. What else? Seriously, you're not showing what your level of knowledge is. Do you know how the stock system works? Understanding the stock system, by reading the FSM will help you out a lot. The same basic principles apply. Have you looked through the FAQ's? Good reading there also. http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/93-megasquirt/

This is one of those "if you have to ask" questions. If you have to ask, then you'll probably run into problems. In principle, the E88 head, complete with cam, rockers, etc., should bolt right on easily, giving you a typical L28 engine but with smaller valves. Basically a flow-choked L28. Apparently there are several E88 varieties though. Better learn more about what you really have. http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/head.htm

Are you sure it's fuel? Not oil? Or oil and fuel? If you have good rings, the cylinder should be getting the same amount of fuel as the others, it's blended at the carbs.. A wet plug could either be a misfire or it's not just fuel, it's oil and fuel, and the oil is causing some misfires. Fuel will dry off pretty quickly, oil won't.

I don't think that those plastic pintle caps in the stock manifold is a very good fit. I'd use a thin flat rubber washer myself. Maybe even remove the caps. I have a different type of 14mm injector, with no pintle cap and it barely reaches the other side, with an o-ring seal. Yours are stopped by that ledge on the pintle cap. Put an o-ring on and the spray pattern might impinge on the manifold hole. Better test fit and look. My thought process overall was that there's fuel pressure pressing down plus intake manifold vacuum. NA engine. Turbo engine's have more issues.

Never heard of them. Google says they're based in South Africa. But you're in Miami. Looks interesting. Good luck. http://www.gotech.co.za/

If you're using the CAS you were working on in your other thread, the ECCS controls spark timing. So when you set the CAS and distributor up according to the FSM, rotor-phasing should be correct. The only way you could change your phasing would be to rotate the CAS disc, which is not possible without modification. You have a stock ECCS system right? Nissan computer, CAS, etc.? I'd do what the factory says to do. Sorry to keep jumping in to your thread. I'll butt out if you want to hear from the turbo guys.

The FSM's are usually right. I go there before reading what random people on the internet that I don't know have to say. That is an ironic recommendation, of course. I'd crank it up, were it mine. Have a timing light handy. www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1983/1983%20280zx%20FSM/

Not seeing the difference you mentioned.

Did you look at the FSM online? Engine Mechanical - Assembly - Turbocharger model...

Man, you should have said in Post #3 instead of your snarky reply. You screwed up.

This is where writing skills come in to play. The phrase "instead of" would have helped. "S14 instead of S13". Then "if I use S14 calipers would the Z31 rotors work?" You wrote an unclear question then insulted somebody who gave good advice. Good luck. The internet is not really free.

I read your description as one cylinder (the MC is two cylinders stacked - in series basically) doesn't drain back and one does. With an open bleed screw you're not really generating any pressure. The back cylinder pressurizes the front cylinder. Most of the FSM's have a really good drawing of the MC internals. Some study there might give you a clue. But... Seems like you might be focused on an observation of something that doesn't really matter, along with the clicks at full stroke, which the MC will never see. Is there an operational problem?