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EvilC

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Everything posted by EvilC

  1. You are the man! Can you pm me your #? Thanks.
  2. Just a reminder of this site for those in the northeast.......check out the site if you like. Starting to pick up =)
  3. Anyone in Dallas, Tx willing to help ship a part (Quarter Panel) to NY? pm or reply to this thread....thanks.
  4. I drove Joe's car a few days ago and will say the steering effort has gone down plenty! Does not feel like I am holding a 45lb weight to make a u-turn. For cost vs driving improvement I say it is a no brainer to buy it, I plan on doing them as well if my car doesn't handle as well as it did before. I see John said, you don't need as much neg camber with larger tires, I am going to be running 17x 9.5 on the new setup up front and 17 x 11 rear so we shall see.
  5. Here goes my input on the subject. I believe Dave and others are correct when using the F = uN formula when applying it to tires but post #14 points out some very good points about the road and tires not being perfect. Where I disagree is on the braking. When you apply a force to a solid object, the pressure is defined as the force applied divided by the area of application. The equation for pressure is: P = F/A where P is the pressure F is the applied force A is the surface area where the force is applied F/A is F divided by A For example, if you push on an object with your hand with a force of 20 pounds, and the area of your hand is 10 square inches, then the pressure you are exerting is 20 / 10 = 2 pounds per square inch. In car terms, if a brake pad pushes on a rotor with a force of 20 pounds, and the area of the pad is 10 square inches, then the pressure the pad is exerting is 20 / 10 = 2 pounds per square inch. Granted as rotors increase, 80% of the time the pad does also. With that so does the MC and fluid properties do too (heat transfer) so better DOT fluid is needed. It is a complete system working together. But to say brake forces has nothing to do with area is wrong IMO.
  6. Thanks, I ordered one from Brian (AZCARBUM), should be here in a few weeks! =)
  7. Well you can but usually there is a check with it also Hope you get it done for next summer too. It is a great car!
  8. I am thinking about getting one for the car...hmm?
  9. Dave that sucks, hope the damage isn't too bad. I would take the money in the insurance pays you for a NOS rear bumper (Nissan still prices them) and get a front and rear 240z bumper re-chromed. Also price the sheet metal from Nissan and the current market value of the parts. As far as paint....gotta see how bad it is.....glad you didn't kill the kid.
  10. Yeah was waiting to see if someone here had one....$255 ouch! lol
  11. What is the vin on this car? Looks like a very cool project to start with.
  12. Thanks guys~! I promise to start putting her back together in the next few weeks...i can't wait to see what she looks like with the CF parts. It was well worth the 5 week wait.
  13. I am in need of a 1 mm metal head gasket.......anyone out there have one? Thanks
  14. :lmao::lmao::lmao: Smart @$$! Everyone knows you are teaching me and I am just following in the Z God's shadow...the fastest Z in the tri-state...:hail:Mr. Rags rturbo 930, thanks....will get it done as long as Joe doesn't kick me out the garage
  15. Thanks Adam...I hope to enjoy this turbo motor like you are with yours by Spring next year. Still waiting for the vids =P
  16. Ok guys, I am making a new thread for something I posted in my old thread. Some guys I know said they had no idea I got the car back...it has been almost two weeks....so here is my original post...let me know what you think.
  17. This is probably the most fun I have had with any Z car besides driving one! Here is what we started with: So to start off, two days ago.....painted the block with engine paint. Also installed new core plugs and clearance the connecting rod ARP bolts to the bottom of the cylinder walls. I used a grinding stone to do this about an inch wide. Be sure to clean the block and cylinder walls when done! After some paint on the engine: The next step was to install the bearings in the block and be sure to put oil on them. Then I rested the crank on the correct bearings, so I can install the main caps and check the clearances with plastic gauge (old school). The main caps were recommended to be installed to 40 lbs each. After I did that and checked the gaps, they were all good. Next step was to install the connecting rods with pistons. BE SURE THE CAPS MATCH THE CONNECTING RODS. There are numbers on the side that you will see once you have them in your hand. Joe, showed me the method you want to use to install the rods and then torque down the caps. So I started off with cylinders 5 and 2. After installing both connecting rods to the crank....I go to turn the crank and....it does not move! Hmmm, Joe showed me that the oil sprayer needs to be on the passenger side of the block in the first rod we installed. So after 5 mins of looking at the motor, I check the rods and caps. Ha, now don't tell Joe but I think he turned the crank around while showing me how it is done and it was installed 180 degrees wrong direction . Now I did not help by installing #5 cap on # 2 and vice versa. I am myself here, so yes I made a mistake too So easy fix, take the piston and rod out...install it the right way and switch caps...and...torque it all back down. The crank turns!!!!!! So basically, I finished up the other 4 and I have no problems with clearance and the crank turns no problem. Lots of oil is needed as you oil the bearings, cylinder walls, and clean off the pistons before you shove them down the cylinders. Me working on the block in Joe's garage: Ready to install timing chain kit and finish up the block: As it sits for now, this should be ready for the head next week: Here is a pic of the head....doesn't look like much here but the sender was Braap. Paul cleaned up my head for me and did not do the intake port matching on my head...the original machine show did that. I will say Paul's work is very very very very very neat!!! Very good person to deal with and answers all my newbie annoying questions .....more pics to come: So thanks to Joe for helping build this thing, I know I owe him a garage floor
  18. Thanks Adam....I can't wait also. I really can't wait to see what else you do to yours!
  19. Sounds like you had a blast! I am sure you will get the car fixed and be right back out on the track soon. I am looking forward to pics and video. Always a great time going to the track and able to run down some expensive cars
  20. It was a good race yesterday, I enjoy watching WWF NASCAR on road courses.
  21. Glad you picked up your new donor.....you will love the ls1 in your Z!
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