johnc

Tacoma Screw Products. Don't cheap out on fasteners. FYI... most all of the fasteners on the S30 are still available new from Nissan.

No other opinion needed. Dan's right.

Time to clean this thing up. Please focus on the issue at hand, not on whether spending money on a car is a good idea or not.

Ackerman is a perfect example of something that's of some relevance to low powered Formula cars (Formula Vee, Formula Ford) and Sports Racers (Spec Racer Ford, S2K) where momentum and low rolling resistance is important. Some of the low powered Production racers (HP, GP) also spend some time optimizing steering angle on their cars. But its unfortunate that amateur IT and GT level road racers discovered the term in the racing books. Its taken on a life on Internet wholly out of proportion to its value to a a production sedan based racer. Pages and pages are devoted to the trivial minutia and optimizing steering angle to minutes of arc based on the turn radius, steering angle, and estimated tire slip angle. This thread has basically become what I call an Internet Engineering Masturbation exercise. You guys have lost all perspective.

The return comes off the FPR. The fuel rail can be dead headed.

I buy my tie downs, chains, etc. from these guys: http://www.awdirect.com/ Their Tow Pro straps/ratchets are still going strong after 8 years and their Grade 100 chain foiled some thieves who tried to steal my aluminum open trailer a few years ago. Found a broken bolt cutter tossed in the bushes next to my trailer and only a tiny little nick on one chain link.

I dunno. Looks like a Vega Wagon with a crappy sunroof.

'Cuz they need all that extra horsepower to haul their fat old asses around?

Uuuuuuhhh, maybe a more reliable, accurate temperature measurement is needed to determine if there really is a difference? Just a thought...

Forgot about that thread. And I still stand by my basic conclusion: The ROI isn't there for Ackerman on a production based race car.

Not to digress too much, but in the road racing world you start to have issues with any of the -A or -B series transmissions at power levels around 300hp. The Vintage racing guys around here get, at most, two seasons out of these older Nissan transmissions. The -C is better but the trend is towards gForce T5s as the least expensive good upgrade.

Do not bolt a seat directly to the floor pans. They are not strong enough to keep the seat in place in an accident. Build seat mounts out of tubing. If necessary, sink the tubing so its flush with the top of the floor pan. Again, do not bolt the seats to the floor pan. The seat will rip out in any kind of wreck.

I sell a CF or fiberglass 4" rise cowl hood.

The shock body and strut may be turning around the shock piston and shaft or the shock shaft may be turning within the monoball.

I'm kinda surprised that the engine builder would run then engine on the dyno with the wrong flywheel. I guess hillbillies are hillbillies. http://jalopnik.com/5719917/how-to-blow-up-a-big+block-v8

And I'm closing this thread.

Start reading: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/50944-the-strut-thread-koni-illumina-tokico-carrera-bilstein-ground-control/ We're not going to hand it to you, you need to figure it out for yourself.

Bilstein charges $65 per shock to disassemble and inspect. New shock shafts are $10. I suggest you pull all 4 shocks and send them off to be inspected. Call 858-386-5941 and talk with Ramone.

Guys, leave the government and politics out of this discussion. Focus on the technical aspects of E15.

Changed the topic title for you guys.

Never happen. Each person needs to gather the information and make their own decision.

I ran one in conjunction with the o-ring'd block. Worked fine.

Just a thought... One thing that I see happen in threads discussing suspension setup is a focus on one issue as if that issue works in isolation. I'm as guilty of it as the next guy. Just because the one "thing" (caster, spring rate, weight distribution, Ackerman angle, roll centers, etc.) we're focusing on induces some behavior in the car doesn't mean that's how the car is actually behaving. Front wheel toe-out may induce a particular behavior but spring rate balance front-to-back my produce the opposite behavior thus canceling each other out and making the car feel neutral at the limit.

I second the above question about alignment. Also, trying to solve a rear traction issue with a fF***ed up LSD is foolish. With the suspension setup you have an OBX should work ok.

The cheapest, quickest, and easiest check is the front diff mount. Make sure it hasn't pulled out or or torn the front diff crossmember.