johnc

Regarding stock L6 cams, there isn't a significant difference in performance between them for a street driven car. In all cases you're better off getting an aftermarket cam. Because racers in some classes are restricted to using stock cams, there have been some efforts in determining which cams might make more power. In the testing I've seen the differences are within the statistical noise of the engine dyno (+/- 1%). The state of tune of the engine is far more important then the stock cam in the head. And for those racers, its not the "A" cam.

BTW... Before you spend a dime on your cars, download and read (not scan) the rule book for each club. You also have some driver licensing requirements to go through before you can race.

Most local SCCA and NASA club racing regions have a "run what ya brung" class for production based cars. Here in SCCA Cal Club the class is called ITE and its pretty open. We have a 300ZX running with a LS2, a SN95 Mustang running with a Roush 427, and a couple pretty serious Corvettes. Your local region has something similar. As long as you do the required safety prep (roll cage, fire system, nets, kill switch, etc.) on the car and you have the required driver safety equipment (fire suit, helmet, gloves, shoes, HANS device, etc.) then you can go road racing with them. They will find a place for you to race.

And/or it could be the front diff mount. Under accel it pushes up against the retaining strap and that deadens any vibration. Under decel the diff pushed down on the mount and the cross member transmitting all the vibration into the car.

No.

That or some 400 to 1,000 grit sandpaper on your little finger.

HybridZ is not a popularity contest. We're a dictatorship - a self-perpetuating autocracy weilding supreme executive power because a watery tart threw a sword at us. We are empererors because a moistened bint lobbed a scimitar at us.

A drill press and a $25 11mm chucking reamer?

WTF? You start a thread that turns into one of the best technical threads regarding emission controls for our cars and you get your panties in a wad because you don't like someone's tone? It would be better if you just say thanks and go on your way with your cat install.

Yes.

The internals should be the same but its even more of a pain to remove the diff internals then it is to just remove the whole rear end. Endure the pain and get the whole unit out from under the Z31.

For me, the racing class rules required the stock block and heads that came in the car.

I meant to update this with a subtle variation. Signal the other driver to pass and stay on the racing line. Do not slow down until you see him move out from behind you and start the pass. Even the Formula 1 guys get that wrong: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIAG8DvUc9c

Probably need to space the anti-roll bar back enough to attach the end link to a tab welded on the LCA just behind the CV shaft.

I replied to Matt's PM a few days ago. Thanks.

I know of a few racers that have run what's recommended by Des Hammill and its generally for a setup where the throttle is either fully open or closed. The chassis needs to be setup for that and the the driver needs to be willing to drive the car in that way. Its normally used when the rules dictate a stock cam and flywheel which tend to dampen or slow down the engine response.

Yes. You need to tap them in with a hammer until the snap ring engages. About another 3/8" in the picture you posted above.

Execute your good idea here: http://www.igottagooditea.com.

I hope you guys in Oz get through this OK.

All the time. Usually when I'm trying to grab a tool with one hand while holding something on the car. Then I just pause for a couple seconds until my eyesight returns. Not as bad as knocking the drop light off the car every 5 minutes and blowing up one of those little fluorescent tubes.

One of the things I hate when working on cars is a drop light. A little while ago I solved that problem for the times when I'm working under a car on the lift. I added two cheap Pep Boys flood lights and a deep cycle RV battery to my tool cart. The battery has come in handy for jump starting cars and I've rolled the tool cart out to cars I'm working on in the alley in the evening to add light. One day I'll add an electric motor and a steering wheel.

Why not just buy Weather Pack connectors? http://www.weatherpack.com/

Yes, it will be a problem. Time for a new ring and pinion.

It can be true, depends on the level of quality you're willing to accept. Myself, I would not repair a steel panel with fiberglass.