johnc

I would say no, unless you run wheel spacers. I put sets of 18 x 10s, 17 x 10s, 16 x 10s, and 15 x 10s on S30s and the most backspace I've been able to get away with is 5.75" and that was with 2.25" ID coil overs.

E85.

I didn't mean to imply that. You can probably get all of the above done on a P90 for your 1500 budget. Any head can be made to work well for your build with the budget you've got. Its generally kind of pointless to compare modified cylinder heads and then try to draw a conclusion that X head is better then Y head. All you can really do is compare stock to stock. The top three in my opinion are the early, big valve, small chamber E88, the N42, and the P90. Those are listed in no particular order and my ultimate choice, given the $1,500 budget, would be the condition of the head before any work begins.

I bought the 750 after I sold my RD400 which I used to ride in jeans, flip flops, no shirt, and no helmet. I was 17 and invincible!

A very flexible chassis with lots of head shake if you went into a corner too hard. You tippy toe into the corner and then blast out, hoping the flexy swingarm behaves itself. Sometimes it did, others times it tried to high side the bike. If you left enough room on the exit you would probably be OK.

Train horns are for pussies.

Yes. The whole cover can be hinged if you want.

The entire fuel cell (including the center fill plate) needs to be separated from the passenger compartment by a metal cover.

They used to be monsters. Typically in really good stock tune with a nice pipe they make 120 to 130hp and zero torque.

You also have to take into account the .080" shave a P90/P79 needs and the cam tower shims. IMHO, you're better off spending that $1,500 on a N42 head and running flat top pistons. But, I'm not an engine guy so I would defer to Paul's opinion if he thinks I'm a bit old fashioned in my thinking.

I'm still partial to one of these, although the one I had back in 1977 tried to kill me many, many times.

There should be a 1/2" spacer that butts against the C-pillar sheet metal and spaces the tab out from the trim.

Probably 2 hours per side if the shop knows what its doing. All day for both sides if it doesn't.

I generally agree with Jon. I don't spend a lot of money on drill bits anymore and look at then as disposable items. I bought a Drill Doctor a little while ago and all it does is give you one more hole each time you sharpen the drill bit. Its gathering dust in my shop somewhere. I just buy jobber bits from McMaster-Carr and toss 'em in the trash when they dull. The big secret to making them last is to use cutting fluid (I use Oatey Dark Thread Cutting Oil) , don't spin them too fast, and make sure you're actually cutting metal. And stay away from Stainless Steel.

Me.

Its even more ridiculous when you lose to the "wrong wheel drive" cars at the drag strip and on the race track. When will people get over their "FWD is bad" thinking?

Your problem is most likely ignition related. Here are a couple old posts from the Internet Z Car Club that I archived:

Thank God for BMW's dynamic systems. If you look at the dash the dynamic system yellow light is almost constantly flashing with Herr Schumacher at the wheel. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9AiFG0ZFNo

Please do some more searching on this site. The K Sport, Megan, etc. coil over conversion for the S30 has been discussed a bunch of times.

Its more then just lag. Its reducing the MOI in the engine, its taking the time to make the throttle linkage work smoothly and maybe even a little progressive, its matching TB size to the intake plenum, its proper matching of the BOV and the wastegate to the compressor and turbine, its optimizing intercooler size and tubing lengths. Its about sweating each little detail that gets you only a small percent improvement in driveability individually but is a big deal cumulatively. Its when you run your fastest lap and are surprised by it because the car drove so easy.

What's really important in road race engine power delivery is throttle response. Be willing to sacrifice (if necessary) some ultimate horsepower/torque to get a nice responsive throttle. Maybe go with a smaller throttle body to help with that.

Looks like an aftermarket header sold by (not made by) BRE.

The unit will essentially bolt right in but you'll have a problem with the side axles. The K series R180s use a snap in side axles while the side axles for the 240Z are bolt in. The side axles from your R200 won't work due to the different spline count (29 vs. 25).

I dunno... gearing that he wants, saves 35 lbs, and gets better halfshaft angles for a lowered car.