johnc

I know its not a Z, but the thought that goes into this is an important example for any other people trying to make old iron handle. The car just came into my shop yesterday. http://www.rhoadescamaro.com/build The really good part is this section: http://www.rhoadescamaro.com/build/?p=338.

I didn't say the above. The car will handle with a steady state understeer and will feel like any Pro-Touring Mustang or Camaro as you add throttle until your right foot overpowers rear grip. Here's what will happen. 1. You enter the freeway on-ramp and start squeezing down on the throttle. 2. The front starts pushing so you add more steering. 3. You keep adding throttle and that causes you to add more steering because weight is transferring to the rear tires and reducing grip on the front tires. 4. At some point you will exceed rear grip and the back end will start to break loose. 5. You'll immediately lift off the throttle. 6. This causes weight to suddenly transfer forward increasing front grip and reducing rear grip. 7. This forward weight transfer causes the front tires to now go in the direction you have the extra steering. 8. At the same instant you've lost rear grip and now the back end starts coming around. 9. You try to counter steer to correct the slide but you've got so much steering in the wrong way that you have no chance to catch it. 10. You're now facing the wrong way on the on-ramp. A closer balance in tire width is always better. It allows the front to delay steps 2 and 3 until you can start unwinding the steering and get on to the freeway.

It will push until you get on the power and then it will snap oversteer once your right foot over-powers rear grip.

I'm not a Holley carb guy but I think they make a baffle setup for the float bowls.

Take it to a Sears store, they might have a way to test it. You can also nicely ask a Snap On truck driver to check it.

Correct.

If your focus in your car build is heat exchanger efficiency then two smaller units will improve the efficiency of the heat exchangers - at the expense of greater weight, system complexity, and cost. If your focus is the temperature of the coolant exiting the heat exchanger, then one heat exchanger has proven to by a very effective and simple design.

There is no measurable performance benefit from installing the Toyota 4 piston calipers with non-vented rotors. IMHO, it actually hurts performance. The real benefit comes from the vented rotors.

Is it dying from lateral Gs or an abrupt throttle drop? Its hard to tell from the video. Try a clean surface with a larger diameter skid pad where you can keep a steady throttle. Nice car!

Use the mounting style that comes with the instructions for the harness you purchase. The crossed shoulder harness mounting is for non-race seats that don't have the holes in the seat back.

If you've got the money for shipping, I sell Tokico stuff all over the world.

First I've heard of that for any use under 8,000 rpm. I ran a ZX distributor on my engine without any problems with an optical trigger. New bronze and steel gears are probably a good idea and go through the distributor to make sure the bearings and bushings are all good. I did have an issue where the oil pump drive snapped a tang but that was very specific to my engine (I also broke alternator mounts). Adding a .0016" bronze shim in between the distributor and oil pump drive tangs solved that problem.

Slide them over the shock shaft after removing the top insulator.

I guess I need to 'splain myself and I could be mistaken in assuming the 7K number Pete posted was a redline. If your redline is 7K and you make max horsepower at 6.8K then you'll need an awfully close ratio transmission to keep the engine in the power band on a race track. Some additional rpm headroom above the horsepower peak is a good idea. I didn't word my post above very well.

It will tough keeping to your 7,000 rpm redline and making your 250whp goal. You'll need a lot of cam to take advantage of that 13 to 1 CR and then you'll need rpm to make that cam work. 8,000 rpm might be more realistic. Good luck with the build.

Cut the strut tubes per the Arizona Z Car instructions on their web site.

You're wrong.

Keep in mind too that the US Top gear is a for profit show. They sell advertising so they have to keep their advertisers happy. EDIT: On another forum someone made a very good point: And I agree. Where the US version comes up short is in comparison to the BBC version. Maybe they can develop their own personality in the 10 shows that have been purchased.

IMPAXX foam from Dow. Its what NASCAR uses and below is the technical drawing for the NASCAR COT installation. You can purchase the foam from BCI. http://www.rollbarpadding.com/downloads/NAS-COT-DM.pdf

Rifle drilled Titanium cams.

"The Cobra is about to spit its venom..." Dialog like that shows why the British version is so much better. And the visuals themselves are so over saturated with color that it looks like a cartoon. The only reason I watched is that their track is at the old El Toro marine base where we autocross every month - and I know who the Stig is.

Unfortunately this is a common story. A lot of shops get stuck in the "Robbing Peter to Pay Paul" mode. At this point all you've lost is time. If you pull the car out you've also lost money. I suggest you have a face-to-face with the owner and establish some new ground rules. The first would be weekly e-mails to you and your wife the pictures of the progress on the work. Make it clear that you expect significant progress each week, that your project is his number one priority, and that he has to ensure you and your wife are happy with the work. If he fails in that, make sure he knows that you'll create a web site and tell the whole story with a special emphasis on how he's ripping off a man in uniform. Your wife will also contact the local news stations and work the military wife angle.

Try a spoiler first. Cheaper then a wing.

What the hell was that noise? Did someone run over a cat?

Please read: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/96471-low-and-high-speed-balance/