johnc

That's why there are things called drill presses - although they are designed to grab the part, spin it wildly for half-a-dozen revolutions and then fling it across the shop.

Your brake system should not have any leaks at all. Period. Please fix all the leaks before posting another question here.

Due to rule requirements Formula 1 is behind the curve when it comes to fuel management. This is where top line professional motorsports fuel management is going - except for Formula 1, NASCAR, and NHRA. http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/content/language2/html/4063.htm You may be able to adapt some the parts from the Bosch Formula 3 catalog: http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/content/downloads/FIA_Formel3/F3Catalog_2008.pdf

OK, this thread is about done. You're asking questions that can be easily found via searching. Take a few days and find these easy answers please.

Yes. Diesel trucks. They also make them out of Stainless Steel. Inlet temps of many diesel engines are high enough that aluminum intercoolers are unreliable. Same is true of some very high horsepower (over 1,000 hp) automotive racing applications. Intercooler failures have been fixed and the temperature delta impoved significantly by going to a copper/brass intercooler. http://www.trucktrend.com/features/tech/163_0210_air_coolers_diesel_engines/index.html

You most likely have Bilstein P30-0032s which are far better then the Tokico and KYB shocks. You'll be much better off sending those shocks to Bilstein and getting them checked. The reason they look "funny" is that they are an inverted shock design and you're actually seeing the side of the shock body and confusing it with the shock shaft, which is at the bottom of the unit inside the tube.

Same for me from Sunbelt when I had them build a 3L. So, in this thread, we have three professional engine builders chose the N42 over the F54.

There is no best! When will you folks figure that out. We even made a rule!

BTW... I'm not saying that all Mustang 2 front suspension setups are bad, just the two I've had direct experience with. I also have a 1951 Chevrolet Coupe coming into the shop in a month with another Mustang 2 style front end conversion. His steering rack mounts have torn off the cross member. I think the big issue is, as I mentioned before, in the details. Some vendors of Mustang 2 front end conversions pay attention to the details and others just slap crap together, powder coat it black, and call it good.

And be sure to install new bump stops. Both the KYB and Toicko shocks bottom internally on the foot valve which will wreck the shock.

Yeah, boring the head bolt hole and sleeving it will probably be the best option. Hi-Temp Lab Metal would be a good alternative to Loctite to hold the sleeve in place. It might also be an option all by itself to repair the bolt bore.

The stock 240Z strut front suspension has much better geometry through its full range of travel then the two heavily modified (TCI and I forgot the other) Mustang 2 front suspensions I've had experience with. The worst one had the anti-roll bar bind the front suspension at anything more the 1" of bump travel. The second worse one had silly amounts of bumpsteer. These Mustang 2 setups were both on mid 50's F100 pickup trucks. As an engineering exercise building a SLA front suspension on the S30 chassis has been done by a few folks. A member here has also swapped in a E36 BMW M3 strut front suspension which has fantastic geometry. Excluding some really bad front suspension designs (Morgan sliding pillar, beam axle, Fox body Mustang) the devil is in the details. If you want to build a SLA front suspension for your S30 go for it. Will it be better the a well modified S30 front strut setup, probably not. Is it worth it, that's up to you and your wallet.

You get what you pay for. If you sell out now for $50 you'll have no recourse when the thing starts leaking. Also, I've heard of folks being offered the above by a seller and never getting the refund - after they changed their review to positive.

OK, your numbers are different then what I got years ago - although I think I checked the numbers on a car with the stock position LCA inner mount. On your car I would less included to remove the bumpsteer spacers.

Bumpsteer spacers negatively affect camber gain in bump. If you want to get a better negative camber gain as the suspension compresses then remove the bumpsteer spacers. Since you're relocated the inner LCA mounting point and you plan on more caster, you probably don't need the bumpsteer spacers. Its worth experimenting at the track. A total track increase of 1" (1/2 per side) is a good place to start. I would run +5 caster on a track car, depending on how wide your tires are. The problem with increasing caster and widening the track is that you're increasing scrub, which slows the car down - so you have to compromise on track width and caster. Scrub is an issue for a 200hp 240Z. Not an issue for a 400hp 240z.

If you search through the photos on the Betamotorsports Facebook page you'll find a half-a-dozen of the Bad Dog connectors installed.

That actually turned out to be a great thread and my initial comment ("yawn") at least got the original poster to elaborate much further on his build - which was cost constrained more then anything else (which wasn't anywhere in his original posts). And I think my prediction is correct. We haven't heard a thing from Ted regarding the build which he said he would start after he finished basic training. I hope he proved me wrong and built the engine - as I said almost a year ago.

Wait until you get the BZ3099s. Toklico, last year, was shipping the wrong gland nuts (for the intended Toyota MR2 application) in the box but they are the correct ones for our Datsun 240Z struts tubes. If you need 280Z gland nuts I ahve them for $10 each. Or you can call Ray at Tokico and if has them he'll probably send them to you for free.

Because I'm an admin here and its my job to maintain the intent and direction of this site. Way back in the beginning this forum was started, in part, because a bunch of us got tired of the same questions being asked over and over by people who don't take the time, research, and figure stuff out. They just want the answer without having to think. Sorry, we don't do that. If you don't know what wheel offset is don't ask here. Use Google. Forums (this one in particular) are also used to share information that someone else has figured out so people can get answers to their questions themselves. That's fine. And we generally don't worry about that if you've built up a reputation as someone who can think and contribute. But if you've got 3 posts and start asking about how much horsepower a R200 can handle...

This site is an advanced automotive performance site. As a member you are expected to have a basic understanding of how an automobile works and be able to do basic maintenance on your car. You are also expected to have the factory service manual and know how to read it. You're also expected to have tools to work on your car. If your car won't start, refer to the FSM and exhaust that avenue before posting a question. If there's a clunk in the suspension, refer to the FSM and check all the nuts and bolts in the suspension before posting a question. If you want to buy a set of wheels off eBay crawl under your car with a tape measure and determine if they will fit before posting another bullshit "Will these wheels fit?" questions. Get your butt out of that chair and figure out these basic things yourself. You will learn a lot, you'll be a better car guy, and you'll stop pissing off us old cranky dipshits.

That's a good direction to go. Also, try removing the bumpsteer spacers and correct the bumpsteer in a more traditional way. If you increase the front track and get more caster you can soften the rear springs by 25 to 50 lb. in.

Pretend you're the brake booster and suck on the check valve. If you suck, that side goes to the booster.

Given the same spring rate, going from a 10" spring to a 12" will require a drop of the welded on spring perch by 2" if you're using all the measurements in the FAQ. For example, a 10" tall 200 lb. in. rate spring will compress 3" if the corner weight is 600 lbs. That will give you a compressed spring (stack) height of 7". A 12" tall 200 lb. in. spring will also compress 3" if the corner weight is 600 lbs. That will give you a compressed spring (stack) height of 9". There is no benefit to going with a 12" spring in the S30 application. The main reason for going with a taller spring is to to keep from coil binding at low spring rates. That's why a 10" spring is a better choice for spring rates under 300 lb. in. on a S30. If your spring rates are over 300 lb. in. then a 8" tall spring works fine.

I'm not a fan of redrilling wheels for the reasons I posted elsewhere. I'll repost them here so someone can make up their own mind: Also, even new wheels fail without the help of additional holes drilled in the center or welding: http://jalopnik.com/5953859/this-guys-wheel-self+destructed-and-the-company-who-made-it-is-blaming-him

Like I said, their are a lot of issue with re-drilling wheels and the incompetence of those doing the re-drilling is a big one.