ZT-R

Yea, im selling the car.

New head time.

Drove it home today. So much quieter engine now. Triple plate carbonetic is hella quieter than the twin disk too. wooot. Well I am pooped. Not to bad of an install time. 20 mins for the motor, an hour for the trans ( yeah r34 trans in a 240z with fuel lines in the tunnel is a bitch), wiring 20 mins. Turbo stuff, 30 mins. piping 20 mins (yea tight fit for 2 pipes haha), mid pipe and exhaust, 20 mins, 10 trips to the faucet for water 1 liter at a time...30 mins... All in all, 4 beers and a monster.

Nope... Scary...

Its not uncommon at all for tomei pumps to be 60-70 idle and 100+ above 3k. Even my N1 pump on my stock rb26 pumped around 50-60 at idle.

Washers under the bolt head reduce pressure, shims under the springs increase pressure.

Keeping everything how it was. I took out 1 washer in the oil pump to bump the pressure back up a hair. The Tomei pump flows alot of oil. Without any washers under the bolt (not shims under the spring to increase pressure), it would idle at about 85 psi and be above 100 at anything over idle. i put like 4 washers on it and got the pressure down to about 45 at idle and 80 at a 2700rpm cruise. Nothing much more I can do with the oil upgrades undles I went with a Ross external setup which I dont think I want to do, keep my ac.

yea the N1s or the -7 turbos for that, or you can run the -5 if you want more power later.

Got to start degreeing the cams again.

If i didnt care about keeping it nissan i would defiantly do a 2jz. LOT cheaper and easier to get stuff for.

Just going to put it back together and blow it up. Here I am deburring the block. I should have took more pics of this before. As far as castings go it was pretty flaky. I the corner you could drag a pick over it and get shavings/casting grit, whatever you want to call it to come off. Mains back together, everthing was mixed down to the tens of thousands and confirmed by plastiguage, just to be sure. 2-5 rods back in, kept number 6 out so i could balance the new rod to the old ones. The new rod was 4 grams heavier. Now its 0 grams heavier. Builders typically call within 4 grams "Balanced". Quick laugh using my "Specialty" dead blow. Kind of Ironic looking. Number one after 20+ mic jobs by me and double checked by 4 other machinist. we found 2 tenths of a thousdanth of taper that was it. no out of round or anything. This was the loosest. Everything elese was .00018 vs .00020, which is really what i would rather see on all of them with this big ass tomei oil pump. Number 1 rod was plastigauged every 45 degrees of rotation too, cause why not... All ring gaps where checked while at it. All good.

Can 2 200lb people fit in a z? I weight 128 and i can barely get out of this thing. lol.

Yea, I was planning on a bigger turbo down the road.

Probably not, cant afford to build another one.

If i were to to this again i would buy an OS RB30. They use the rb26 n1 block and make it a rb30 but adding a deck plate and new billet crank and all that bs. Keep the oil squirters and rigidity of the rb26 block. Its more expensive but you get a nice crank too. Also something to look at is the Nitto RB32 stroker. Depends what you want though, if you want top end power rb26 with a big ass turbo is fine. I didnt want a high reving top powerband engine. I wanted more torque.

Nitto stroker is looking more and more tempting as the emails exchange.

No, but thats where most come from.

At 4500 rpm?

I have their 240 mounts, although the engine mounts are ok, the trans was a joke. I had to make a custom one to hold that kind of weight. Yes it fit but the weight at the given moment was just not a bolt on solution. The trans mounts on the 260 and 280 are different maybe they are better. Matter of fact i think i have a trans mount for one.

No this is a 800hp build.

I'll let ya know what I decide to do, but mine would be coming from NZ not AU.

Get off your duff Joel, lol.

Yea.

Mains look ok. Check the mains for runout. Only other damage i found was a scar in the oil pump, but thats to be expected.