ZT-R

If you want to paint it just grab a PDK dash.

You put a pressure switch on the vintage air, that would be just dangerous if you didnt. You can have it made in the hose or whatever you want. There are differences in the R33 and R32 compressors btw.

gen 2 compact i think. i have 2 of the oem option evaps too. I need to get off my ass and make some lines.

Yea I am running AC. I just need to make a hose to my evaporator. Running the rb26 compressor, try to get the oem hoses as it makes it easier to make a custom hose (just the 2 fittings that go into the compressor).

Down for a 240 style...

confirm by back probing the wires to the corresponding ecu pin.

So 3 maybe ehh?

Do you have a pinout of your harness?

Hell thats not much back spacing, im rocking 6.5 on my rear under the normal ZG on a 17x11.5 Just got some BAMF so that will be a little wider with hopfully a 325ish on a 17x13ish.

You cant just swap the cas disk and crank it, you have to change the sensors in the software. Its like running a 5bar map then installing a 3 bar map... not the same. Not saying that is the only issue, but an issue none the less.

No, I'm not using their pistons. We left the combustion chamber alone, just deburred and cleaned it up. 70.6cc is the final number on the volume. I know people say the stock rb is like 64cc but thats not correct, its more like 67-68cc. I used custom 9:1 CP pistons and a 8.5 or something like that head gasket (thin one) which should net 8:5:1 if I remember correctly.

Take your plugs out and turn off all fuel injectors. Have a friend spin the car over with the starter while you check the timing with a light. With your laptop go to Wizard, then Ignition Timing Wizard, lock the timing and click the show the Advanced options box. Now you will see Teeth. When click on the Advance or retard buttons the teeth number will go up and down. 24 is where you might have to set the teeth to 0. You only have to do this if your going a certain way, I cant remember if its advancing or retarding. 24 is the same thing as 0 so as the teeth increase make sure it doesnt hit the 24 ceiling, if it does put the number 0 in there and it will keep going. You click on buttons realtime as a friend spins it over. Mine was waaaay out on my RB30 vs the 26. Its kind of hard to see it at such low rpm but thats how I got mine cranked.

Post a picture of your phasing.

^Mine where too loose on my 72 z.

I think the main difference is one is aluminum, but the urethane rack bushings dont fit great anyway. You will have to add material to your brackets so it will tighten up.

Surely an aem ems.... Make sure you have the AEM cam sensor loaded in your wizard... Open your tune, go to WIZARDS, then SETUP WIZARD, then under Sensor: Cam/Crank, make sure its NISSAN 4 & 6 COP, WITH AEM DISK. make sure its not the rb stock disk.. Assuming your on a V2 box.

Just throw in some 292 cams, you dont need to idle

He didnt send me flow numbers. The craftsmanship looked great, but I know the truth is in the numbers. It does breathe very easily. I may end up swapping over to the BG EFR 9series snail or at least the 8series and try to pickup some spool, not that its containable currently anyway... I will shoot him an email and see if he has flow numbers. 13" rear brake rotor upgrade, not much of a pic, but it fills the wheels up decent.

On a side note how strong is your battery, and how is your engine grounded?

Not gonna happen.

Still disliking....

Im spinning a 17x10.5 on regular flares in the rear on a 295, hope this bamf flare i can rock a 12.5 or 12.75 on 315 or 335

I got my rear flares the other day too looking good.

Dislike...

I leave a battery tender on all my batteries.