ZT-R

On what turbos and what dump pipes are those?

Why is all the cool **** in Aus? Grrrrr

I see, I need to land me a sponsor so I can play with the big boys. Whats the big difference between N1 block and regular R33 block?

Why not rb30 block?

Hey guys, I'm looking for a decent starting point for drag style anti-lag. I know some of you are running the aem ems. Is anyone using the anti-lag feature yet? If so, what are your settings. Thanks, Lee

I have a civic fan motor in my 240z, not sure if zx is similar.

We had a hot tank specially for aluminum at a machine ship I use to work at. I wouldn't stick the butter flies in there though.

Yea it should be cheaper if a course has online content as it greatly reduces expenses and work loads on the professors and the school.

There is a capital X in the first submission and a lower case x in the final one. That is where human judgment outweighs a computers...

I wouldn't mind sticking on the -5 but i don't know, might go single to simply stuff.

I didnt trim the rivets, but thats not it. Its because of the rail for my power windows. there is a stud that sticks out so you can put a nut on it up there where the metal oem piece is. I grinded it down as much as i could, maybe next time i have it off i will try to find a skinny nylon nut for it. That would probably help some.

My post is gone too. grrr.... Nevermind my camera's aperture settings or my wires, I'm working on that.

Ivan, get your ass in gear dude. I know I needed someone saying that when I was at that point in my build. Cheers.

Damn, i should do that on my 280 with the tubed front, that looks like it would be easy with the control arm right there. hmmmmm

Pics of the same in my build thread. RB forum.

Nice.

Dave told me 5/8" mine are on the way so i should know shortly. I was planning on running his 13" rotors but he didnt recommend that much weight on them.

695whp..........Divided by 2

Sourcing a Rb30 block for when something happens to this one.

Well, I accomplished a lot this weekend. Go the rear fenders cut and done, for the most part. I left the lower ends unfinished incase i need to raise the flare some in order to run a lower ride height. Should have some bump stops coming in this week so maybe I can get figured out during the week. Anyway here are some pics. Pics jump between passenger and drivers side but same concept... Since I had my kelcos holding on my fenders i masked everything and traced my lines. The top of my flare is 3.75 up from the bottom of the oem fender. Taped the fender and marked the top with a sharpie and came down 7/8" from there and made the lower mark. Before I cut anything i installed my blind nuts, i used metric 5mm but I would have used 6mm if my tool would do them. It will do aluminum 6mm but not steel. Anyway 5mm is plenty. I couldn't get 1 of them in there at full depth until I cut the fender. Putting them in before you cut helps to not bend the fender. Next, cut the lower mark and begin pealing it down. Should end up with something like this Next, I cut little slits in the inner fender to let it conform easier. Slap it with a hammer (carefully, take your time) and the inner will meet the outer. Once its in place weld the BOTTOM side, just a tack were the outer fender meets the inner fender IN THE SLOTS YOU CUT. IF you were to weld it from the top when you go to bend the rest up (assuming you do as I have done) it will make it stick out to much, for my taste at least. In this pic you can see where I am talking about tack welding it. Now you have something like this. Next, I took my plasma cutter and cut the tabs to about 3/8" long or so. Then i took a 5 pound sledge (used it as a dolly on the backside of the fender) and a ball-peen hammer and worked the lip up and over and welded it together. The Drivers side turned out a lot better than the passenger side one pictured, but the photo was better of the passenger side. Note that if you leave the tabs to long, when you bend them up they will be close to the top of your fender flare, you don't want this because when you weld it the heat will mess up your paint. I used my tig welder on pulse to keep the heat low but i guess a mig and a copper spoon would do too... Here is the passenger side. And the Drivers side, not finalized in this pic but you can see where its going. Here is a pic of my blind nut tool. Ok its time for beer and asprin.

The CCWs in the rear are 17x10.5 with 6.5" BS. I dont know if these will work on anything other than the T3 R230 swap as I had to run the camber out all the way on the bottom of the hub. At full droop (limited by the axle), here is the inside clearance. Once I get the fenders cut, I hopefully will be able to lower it about an inch more. Once I set the ride height, I will run the track out on the lower control arms to fit the flares perfect. It's not a bad fit for how it is right off the get go though. I also installed ARP 100-7708 extended studs and Work RS-R extended lug nuts. To install you have to remove the hub. Installed the T3 weld in camber plates. Man my ride quailty is 50-70% better than with modified oem hats, not really sure why, especially since the camber plates lower the car another inch or so. I did cut out a 1/4 thick rubber and install it between the top spring seat and the yellow camber bearing flange to help isolate some vibrations. Have my Camery window regulators all finshed up and the fiberglass door shells installed. Due to the way I had to mount the drivers side motor, the shell will have a slight bulge in it. Cant wait to see them covered. I would love some Bride gias low max carbon kevlar seats in between these two, but given the price tag I do not see that as a viable option.

I'll take some pics tomorrow, but they are not covered. Looking for a more updated version than the oem 240z vinyl.

Well the only one if have is more of the engine at the moment. I mounted mine in the same place on both sides. Looks better and these have plenty of adjustment, I think some people are smoking crack. I dont care if its not the OEM location or not.

I would recommend putting a real thin layer of weatherstrip between the metal oem upper piece and the fiberglass part when you rivet it. I didn't do that to my passenger side one and it squeaked pretty good, so i took it off and stripped it, rerivited it and its all good now. I would also recommend using 3/16 rivet washers on the backside.

Wireless GPS with battery backup.