mario_82_ZXT

With adapters and everything, a braided line ran for ~$40 at a local hot rod shop. I believe there is a premade one just long enough. Mario

My friend had a similar issue and it was all due to how his wiring was ran. Basically, the ecu harness came in from the engine bay in such a way that moisture would run down it and get INSIDE the MS box, causing it to become erratic, and it had to be reflashed TWICE. This was easily fixed by putting a "U" in the harness so that the water will drip down on the lowest part of the "U" and not come up to the ECU. Just something to think about, Mario

I believe the IGN light only turns on with MS-II boards. Depending on how you flash it, you could have the FIDLE LED flashing. Mario

I like the original tail best. I just love how these cars look! On the wheels, I'd keep the meshes, but I absolutely love mesh wheels! Mario

I think JeffP is running an extrude honed intake. Best bang for the buck right now I think is Lonewolf's intakes. Last I checked they were one of the cheapest out there and would be built to your specs. I'll looking into porting the stock one, but I'm almost 95% sure that you can't get much out of it. Mario

Wait for Mack's review of the SFI rated Powerforce adapter, or go with a BHJ or Rebello unit (which I think is the same thing but available in different sizes). Mario

A friend of mine had those carbs on a 3.0 Rebello built stroker and he was always running out of fuel in the top end. He switched to tripples and it's a whole different car! I think you can probably rejet them for the stock 2.4, but I don't think those will be enough for the 3.1. Mario

What are you using for a crank pulley? From what I understand the stock L28 ones come apart easily at high rpm (+6.5k). Mario

I don't understand this, I thought your head was already ported? The problem with the intake manifold is the runner diameter. From what I understand, there really isn't enough "meat" left on it to be able to do any suitable amount of porting. I would go with a custom intake manifold from one of the many custom intake manufactures, or design and weld your own. Mario

Recheck the firing order. 1-5-3-6-2-4 counter clockwise starting from the hole closest to the radiator. Mario

I love how the tii edition looks! Man the driver in the video sucks! Mario

My camera is dead so I can't take pictures of it, but basically the wastegate is about an inch thick with a T4 bolt pattern on it. It slips onto the exhaust manifold first, followed by the turbo. The turbo then connects directly to the intake manifold using a coupler. Without the wastegate the turbo is going to be about an inch short, and will probably put out something like 25 psi. Mario

You know what was awesome? DOOMSDAY. I think it beats Rambo in the blood and gore department, almost as if the had a gallons of blood per minute quota to fill. It was off the wall ridiculous. Mucho fun!

I don't see the wastegate. Seeing as how I've seen this kit first hand (and have the turbo sitting next to me) I know it comes with an external gate. Without it I don't think the turbo will reach the intake manifold. Mario

Nope, holes also grow in size with thermal expansion. So then the hole will end up growing at twice the pace of the bolt, making it easier to loose torque. Since you said originally the bolts were bottoming out, did you just get shorter ones? I wonder if that had anything to do with it. Wasn't there talk of some people drilling the holes out so that wouldn't happen? Mario

I'm interested as I get terrible heat soak with mine... Mario

While you're at it remove the plastic rivets. A local shop strips them, removes the rivets, and powdercoats them and they look great! Mario

It folds inward because of the air resistance. Mario

WHERE'S THE FOGGY BURNOUT?!?!?! Hahahaha I love the pop's open exhaust makes when decelerating. Mario

Won't they look a little lighter then usual since you're running meth/water injection? Also, Innovate recommends you do a free-air calibration every X months (it's in the manual), and it's more frequent on turbo cars. Have you gotten your Venom's tested yet? Mario

Holy crap! That's a great idea! I have very limited experience with microcontrollers. I built a programmable alarm with a PIC based processor last semester. It was easy since it could be coded in C. Hmm... I can't really offer much insight on the AVR, I know the Arduino is getting a huge following now, because it is supposed to be very easy to use. This is just awesome though: http://six.media.mit.edu:8080/6 (It's sooo small and CHEAP!!!) Arduino: http://store.makezine.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=MKARDIE Lots of things for the Arduino: http://store.makezine.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=20 I think I'm going to do this as well. Get rid of the bulky combo switch and replace it with a nice panel. Plus, with this you'd probably be able to control any kind of wiper motor, and I could even make a little custom overhead view of a Z and control each light individually (stealth mode anyone???). Good thing I'm getting ready to tear out all my wiring! Mario

Ask at twinturbo.net I believe NA-TT swaps run around $6k-7k from a reputable shop when everything is set and done. Unless you have some ridiculous custom work in your NA, it's much easier to sell and buy a TT instead. Rear mounted setups have their pros and cons. It's been debated here before. Mario

For realiability's sake I would hate using 30yr old wiring... That said the pin outs are completely different I believe. Double check a wiring diagram to be sure, but I think for the time it would take to modify the stock harness and get the ZX ECU to run right and not be finicky, I could build an MS box and wire it up (It's like a little over 20 wires...) Mario

Doesn't the high-beams power run through the speedo to light up the blue light in it? Mario

Awesome Z!!! You need to post pics! Especially of your hood! Sounds beefy! Mario