mario_82_ZXT

The Z is a unibody hence no frame. Mario

I still don't get your setup..... If you were running the 4 pin HEI before without the coil driver, then there should be no reason to set dwell. Like I stated before, 4 pin HEI's are smart dwell, aka they control it! Mario

You actually can do it with the tank kind of in place. Just cut of as much as you can from the shock, (make sure you unscrew the little screw at the end to remove the pressure), then put a jack under your tank with a peice of wood to distribute more of the weight. Undo the straps and move the tank as far back and to the exhaust side as possible (dropping it a tiny bit). It should give you just about as much space as needed to remove the shock (I did mine with the exhaust still on and it barely squeezed through). What's great is no need to undo fuel lines and such, but it'd be easier with an emptier tank. Mario

I'd take a look at the Euro 280zxt Dizzy's. If I recall they did just that. You might be able to copy the mechanism or something.... Mario

Cool congrats! I wouldn't mind taking a look at that Mario

AZ Zcar sold the molds a LONG time ago, and nothing has been made that i've heard of. Good luck with it! I bet the fit is probably way better then the showcars garbage! Mario

There's nothing nearby on that site for me At school in the engineering building they put stuff out in the hall that they don't want anymore. Out of this my friends and I have gotten multiple computers, monitors, a laser printer, and a bunch of random tidbits. Mario

Nice work! The bumper shocks are a royal PITA to remove. Mario

I can do 43 mph in first at 6.5k rpm. I think 50 could be done with the proper tranny, rear, and tires. I see people in Cali GIVING AWAY cars in much better shape then this. Mario

Ok... I've been reading and reading posts and I get that simply looping the heater core inlet and outlet lines is very bad. I read more and I found that you should just cap them. Then I read more and Tony D says you must have a recirculation line of some sort... so does that mean I can't just cap them??? The "vacuum capsule" on my 78 280z keeps leaking after I took it completely apart, cleaned the mating surfaces, and put sealent on the outer o ring (the one I thought was causing the leak. Is this part replaceable? It's a vacuum activated valve for heater core flow. I found a similarly shaped one for GM vehicles that is practically the same except it is missing the mounting bracket. Ideas? Mario

To see if they are firing you can buy (or make) a little noid lamp that goes into the connector. If the light pulses then the injectors are firing. You can also ohm out injectors. The manual should have an acceptable range of values. Mario

Fuel / Air / Spark? Mario

IIRC one of the 300zx's used a heated sensor. They're narrowband so practically worthless anyways... Mario

BPR6ES-11 is the stock resistor plug if I remember correctly. They were made to not put out as much electronic interference, which MS hates. Mario

More pics!!!! Looks great! Mario

Oh woops, yea, it's on my 78 280z. It's right next to the water control valve, but what's weird is that the water control valve doesn't full shut off coolant flow, while the other one might (the vacuum capsule i mean, and mine's pitted and leaking). It's like if water supply is shut off completely by that the vacuum one or something... Mario

I finally got my Z back on all 4s and it thanks me by pissing itself all over the passenger floor. It seem that what is leaking is the "vacuum capsule" next to the water control valve for the heater (little flying saucer type thing). It seems kind of redundant to have both a mechanical water control valve and what seems to also be a vacuum water control valve (the vacuum capsule thingie). Can I get rid of it? Anyone know what it really is for? Thanks, Mario

No wonder you cheater!!! j/k Rain is back over here now again Mario

That's stonehenge69!!! He had one of the earlier most comprehensive sites on stroker build ups... Hadn't seen him on zcar.com in years.... I guess he's parting out his stroker Z Mario

The main problem was the frame rail is so high and the hydraulic's bracket is too low.... The one on the evap canister side seems like it was installed then the hydraulic bracket welded on.... We almost had it out by cutting like a 1 inch strip off the bottom and the it snapped Oh well... maybe I'll learn to use fiberglass and make a 2 peice one myself. Mario

I've already removed all the rivets. Now I just need to get the damn panels out. I heard I might get a little more clearance by removing the ones with speakers first. Mario

This is for my 78 280z. How the heck do you remove the trim panels??? The one that covers the expansion tank(???) and the one opposite of it (past the strut towers). I really don't want to break them, and the brackets that hold the hydraulics seem welded in. Ideas??? Thanks, Mario

From what I've heard they are some of the first cars ever to have such insane aero mods. The creator did this way before anyone, and before body mods were really all that popular. Plus look at the materials! Carbon fiber, kevlar, etc! Stuff in todays exotics! I like'em Mario

My fuel pump on my 78 280z does not prime. Have you checked the Oil Pressure Switch? If it's an A/T then there is another safety switch at the transmission. Mario

!!! I was ME (damn chem...., now Computer Engineering) anyways my friends and I are trying to start FSAE at NU. Any tips or advice would be great! If you're in Michigan and if I can get my Z to Chicago it'd be awesome to meet you guys!!! Mario PS I think I already said it but your Z is gorgeous!!!!!