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So I bought this car by mistake. I honestly thought I wouldn't win the ebay auction when I made my offer...stupid me. Anyway, I am looking to get rid of it, all out, or part it out. What are your opinions? I already have a 1975 280Z project going on and this is just too much for me to tackle. It came with four carbs total, has two rear coilover setups, an aftermarket gas tank, some janky custom metal work (no offense if one of you originally owned it) and some chassis reinforcement that I actually like. Alloy wheels Not sure if the diff is original, but probably is. Comes with another R200 with a "limited slip device" installed inside it. Also, something weird is going on in the back. There were some racing lights installed on cards, which are in my garage. There also looks to have been a wing at some point. The lock mechanism needs replacing and the driver door linkage needs fixing. You have to hold the lock UP to open it...won't open from the outside. Here is the link to my dropbox with all the photos: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/e6j0h829xuizkxu/AAA2yzieFc72zxkFWHuTEcITa?dl=0 I've attached 4
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I searched and searched and searched endlessly to build a spreadsheet of what to buy before ever taking on this journey from the car to what I wanted in the drivetrain for approximately 2.5 years. Searching craigslist/copart/ebay endlessly until I ran across a deal in my budget for a $2k running driving Z car. This led me to Virginia and I bought this daily driver 1976 280Z with 168k miles and in fairly good shape. My uncle and I drove it home 300+ miles with dry rotted 10 year old tires and 40 year old bushings with a slight hint of white smoke under hard acceleration on the interstate! Then the build began"¦ This was in March of 2012 just after grabbing my BS in Civil Engineering from UT Knoxville in Dec of 2011. I didn't start buying until December of 2012 and I haven't stopped since haha[/font][/size] -First I had to figure out the dreaded fluid in the passenger floorboard...leaky heater control valve so I wound up using a Bronco heater valve 74628 (Advance Auto Parts), 2-90* hoses, spare pieces of 5/8" hose and some hose clamps to fix that right up. PITA to get to with stock heater core/ac junk in the way BTW. Future plans are JCI/Vintage Air! -Engine spec'd out to be cheaper for an LS1 pullout if I could find the right deal but after considering the fuel mileage gains and ease of finding another engine for less if it went south I went 5.3 all the way. Plus boost always sounds better for the future! I have a spreadsheet list for that too! -2002 5.3 from a Chevy Avalanche with 80k that ran good (or at least that's what the guy at the junkyard said!) -Drive by cable was my goal from the start to get a better "feel" for the car so I bought a new throttle body and used ls1 intake, fuel rails, oil pan/pickup tube, etc... But I kept the truck spacing on the accessories (cheaper). -Transmission, besides the car, this was the worst to find and ultimately I went with the TR6060 over the T56. -2011 Camaro SS TR6060 with 2k miles ($1600 with free head stud kit valued around $225) -TR6060 has more stock holding power than a T56, a trans cooling system, and supposedly shifts smoother -But the downsides are that it is more rare (1st in a LS-Z), fixed yoke rear, taller gears, & uses a remote shifter From then on out I used the "Documemtation" of how to swap an LS1 T56 combo into a Z car and along side other builds on HybridZ to get to where I'm at. From Cooling to the RT Diff Mount to the Fuel Cell Setup I've researched and stalked tons of pages to get where I'm at and asked a handful of questions. My hats off to the site and all who put their 2 cents in because it would've been harder without it for sure. If I can help anybody else that has questions just shoot me a message about the swap. HybridZ and LS1Tech are your best friends during this swap so use them! The 5.3 had no real issues as in tapping the alternator hole (I was scared to do this at first) or cutoff the protruding section from the side of the block but it cuts like butter with a saw. 11/32" Drill Bit & 10mm x 1.5 Tap. I did mine inside the car, so out or in it doesn't matter. My goal is to daily drive it to work to keep miles off my truck and to replace my burning passion for buying a new Vette since I bought a new '12 Duramax instead. So power upgrades are essential to fulfill my daily need for speed. Future dream plans are a turbo, beefed up rear, and A/C. But I'm not sure if they can all be satisfied together so we'll see or I may just go and build another with a 5.3/auto/turbo drag setup and leave the stick with a/c for autox/daily driving. Engine: -5.3L 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche 80k Miles -JCI Engine Mount Kit -MSD Plugs 32829 (Truck Coil Setup) -LS1 Stock Throttle Body -LS1 Intake 12560688 -LS1 Oil Pan 12558899 (Oil Filter: PF46E AC Delco / M1-107 Mobil) -LS1 3 Pin MAF Sensor -LS1 Stock 26 lb/hr Injectors -LS1 Alternator Bracket + ¾" spacers -Tap 10mm-1.5 (Hanson 8340) and 11/32" Drill Bit for Alt Hole in Block -Ribbed Pulley Advance Auto (P/N: 89015) -EGR Block off Plug Dorman 1-3/8" -Lokar LS1 Throttle Cable 36" -Custom Intake Throttle Cable Bracket -Custom Firewall Throttle Cable Bracket -4" to 3.5" Elbow to 3.5" Cone Air Filter -Dayco 5060548 Serpentine Belt for Alternator Only Setup -Truck Crank Pulley, Water Pump, Alternator, & Belt Tensioner -TunedbyFrost for 93 Octane (+25-28rwhp) & P1336 Code Removal -LS1 Drivers Side Clamshell Motor Mount (5.3 one won't work) -LS1 Dipstick 12551581 and Dipstick Tube 12551577 Transmission: -TR6060 2011 Camaro SS 2k Miles -Custom Transmission Rear Mount to Frame Rails -Royal Purple Synchromax Manual Trans Fluid (4 Quarts) 01512 -Perma-Cool Hose Barb Fittings 11/32" to 6AN (P/N: 15265) -2 "“ 6AN 90* Elbow Female to Male Swivel Fittings (Route Cooling Lines) -Custom Remote Shifter Mount and Linkage Rod (DO NOT BOLT TO TRANS TUNNEL) -Tremec Shifter TKO600 New Takeoff -Pro 5.0 Shifter Lever + 6 Speed Shifter Ball -GM 4l60e to 6AN Fittings (P/N: 12055) Choice Motorsports LLC (+ C Clips) -Stock Camaro SS Trans Mount -*Reverse Lockout is the same plug for LT1-T56/LS1-T56/LS3-TR6060 Clutch: -Monster Stage 2 "“ 12" LS1 Clutch Package with clutch alignment tool etc"¦ -Chromoly Billet 18lb Flywheel -Tilton 75-875U (7/8") -48" SS Braided 4AN Clutch Line (TOOOO Long "“ go 36") Tilton to TR6060 -Tick Performance TR6060 Clutch Speed Bleeder (Just Do It) -Welded on Male 4AN Steel Bung to Slave Cylinder Steel Line In Bellhousing -GM AC Delco TR6060 Pilot Bearing 12557583 (NOT a T56 Bearing) Driveline: -GTOPL-2 Aluminum Fixed Yoke Driveshaft Adapter (1350 Size U-Joint) -Slip Driveshaft (Oliver's Driveshaft in NC) 1350 to 1310 (23-9/16" Long) -R200 Neapco Adapter 2-2-899-1 with a 1310 Size U-Joint (M8-1.25x35mm) -RT Diff Mount from Techno Versions LLC and Modified Prothane Bushing -R200 3.54 (Stock) Open Differential (1 Tire Fire!) -Modern Motorsports 300ZX Turbo Half Shaft Adapters (New) -1986 300ZX Turbo (84-89) CV Axles (New) Flipped Cages to Shorten -75w90 Diff Fluid Lucas 2 Quarts (2.75 Pints = 1.375 Quarts to Full) -Differential Overflow Tank Exhaust: -JCI Headers Used (Non Ceramic Coated) #DAT-405 (Used) -Dual 2.5" to the Rear of Trans/Driveshaft then Y into 3" out the back -Borla Muffler 40359 Pro XS 3" In/Out (almost identical size to stock muffler) Suspension: -Full Removal of All Suspension Front/Rear and Sanded/Painted -Full Poly Bushing Master Kit (Red) 7.18102R Hyper Flex -Tokico 5 Way Adjustable Springs(Red)/Struts(White) Combo -10w-30 Fluid Refilled in Stock Strut Cartridges -Rear Spindle Pins/Bushings Replaced By Previous Owner Recently!!! -KYB Dust Boots (Plastic) with Bump Stop (Not Strapped on the Bottom) Wheels/Tires/Brakes: -XXR 531's in 16x8 with +0 Offset (Black/Polished Lip) -Falken 225/50/16 with no rubbing on stock/tokico suspension -Stock Brake Calipers Cleaned and Painted Hi-Temp Red -Speed Bleeders on All Corners -Hawk HP Plus HB169N.560 Front Pads -Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines (All 4) -New Front Rotors -Rear Drums Already Had New Pads Cooling: -3 Row Aluminum Direct Fit Radiator with Drain Plug -"˜93 Taurus/Sable (91-95) 2 Speed 3.8L Fan with Connector Plug -Stock 5.3 Hose Modified to Fit Upper Hose -22478 Gates Hose from Oreilly's for Lower Radiator Hose -New Factory 186* Thermostat + Housing (Built Together) -¾" and 5/8" Heater Hose Lines and a ¾ to 5/8 adapter -JTR Hose Tee with 5/16" Steam Barb and Air Bleeder -Radiator Overflow Tank Gauges/Wiring: -ChevyThunder.com Stand Alone CPU/Harness for 5.3/LS1 w/ OBDII+CEL -Speedhut 4" GPS Speedo 160MPH w/ Blinkers+High Beam GR4-GPS-05T -Speedhut 4" 8k RPM Tach (See Group Buy on Speedhut"¦) GR4-TACH-02 -Glowshift 2-1/16" Oil/Water/Fuel Gauges 7 Color LED -JEG's Fuel Pressure Gauge (on fuel rail at firewall) -Oil Gauge Pressure Sending Unit behind intake on top of motor -Water Gauge Sending Unit on rear of passenger head at the battery -Autometer 2277 "“ 12m x 1.5 to 1/8" for Water Temp Sensor to LS Pass Head -Autometer 2268 "“ 16m x 1.5 to 1/8" for Oil Press Sending Unit Plug Top Block -Brass 1/8" NPT 45* Fitting for Oil Pressure Sending Unit Aftermarket -8 Guage Red Wire From Alternator to Battery -Stinger 4 Maxi Fuse Holder and Appropriate Fuses for Year Model Fuel System: -15 Gallon Universal Fuel Cell w/ Built-In Sending Unit (0-90 Ohm) -Fuel Cell Hanging Mounts and Padding + Other Mounts -Fuel Filler Neck Behind License Plate -Flip Down License Plate Bracket -Vented Gas Cap -Dual 10AN on the rear of the Cell (10 to 8 reducer) -8AN Pushlock Hose to the 100 Micron 8AN Fuel Filter -Walbro GSL392 (255) Fuel Pump -Corvette C5 FPR WIX 33737 -6AN WIX FPR Fittings 640860, 640850, 640940 (Russell Fittings) -6AN Pushlock Hose From Pump to FPR -6AN Pushlock Hose From FPR to Fuel Rails & FPR to Tank Return -Fuel Line Holder Clips with Rubber to Run Fuel Lines -LS1 Fuel Rail 3/8" Hardline to 6AN Push-On Fitting is RUS640850 -Stock LS1 Injectors 26 lb/hr -*6AN Size Fuel Line is good for up to 450HP -16' of 6AN and 3' of 8AN Push Lock Hose Recommended Tools: (besides the usual ones"¦I had to buy/borrow these) -Engine Hoist 1 Ton (Harbor Freight $105) -Load Leveler (Harbor Freight $20) -Torque Wrench (Mainly for Clutch Install) -Slide Hammer (Harbor Freight $15 for Stub Axle Removal) -Mig Welder (Lincoln Electric 140HD + Mig Gas $700 total) -Brake Line Wrench (Craftsman 10mm/12mm $10) -Spare Sets of Wrenches in Metric (Whole Car is 10/12/14mm"¦) Issues/Advice: -Crankshaft Relearn Procedure P1336 "“ It cannot be completed unless a factory setup is in place and I did not have this so I went ahead and had Frost tune that code out. The engine will try to run properly but won't let itself until this is done even though the crankshaft is mechanical. Other than that the engine ran flawlessly from ChevyThunder's harness. This procedure is popping up only if the computer and engine did not match from the factory and I did not get the CPU with the engine. Next time I will. -Do NOT cut anything off of the Datsun harness until the project is fully running and it all works, ask me how I know... I had to fight a couple of electrical gremlins that were working just fine before I took out the motor and they didn't once I was ready to drive"¦like brake lights and interior everything electrical, but the headlights, blinkers, stand alone engine and the gauges worked flawlessly. -I'd go 2-5/8" on the triple gauges. Mine look too small personally but they're fine and it's too late now -80 or 100 Micron Filter before the Walbro is mandatory but my 30 Micron did fine but supposedly too restrictive. -Upgrade the suspension/bushings like I did and redo all supporting components while they're easy to get to. -My clutch is actually for an LS1 T56 setup but works with what I have so there's my 2 cents"¦buy the trans first not the parts that go in it. They were having a new years sale and I just knew I'd be putting in a T56"¦ Push button momentary switch wired for the reverse lockout solenoid because my harness was made for a T56 and I am using a GPS speedo not the VSS. 3 amp fuse and a switch from RadioShack and it works good. Keeps me from going into reverse on a 6-5 downshift. It does literally take two hands to jam it in reverse without the solenoid activated and that will not mess it up because it's only a spring pushing back. More TR6060 downsides I'm coming aware of now that it's driveable, theres a slight clanging inside the trans when you let out of the clutch while it's in neutral. Apparently all 5th Gen Camaros have this from what I read even brand new ones with no miles on them (not just GM TR6060's either). It's a factory sound and slight vibration in the shifter (get a loud exhaust or a good stereo!). Another issue with buying a TR6060 are the batch of factory defective transmissions, which are serial numbers 0-25000 which have a weak main shaft that's not heat treated like the new ones and an issue about not having an output shaft bearing installed. This has been well known to modified 2010's and some 2011 cars that are manual that have broken with superchargers installed and even bone stock 436hp levels. I was unlucky and my serial is 24302... So since I'm going to only have low 300's for horsepower right now I'll be fine but in the future a main shaft upgrade will be necessary. Main shaft (stock) is good for up to 475hp from what I've read. Gearing is another aspect in transmissions that I was curious about as well... LS1 T56 - 2.66 , 1.78 , 1.3 , 1.0 , 0.74 , 0.50 (not GTO ratios) TR6060 - 3.01 , 2.07 , 1.43 , 1.0 , 0.84 , 0.57 Grand total costing me around $14k including the car. That includes a few screw ups, new GM 10.9 bolts everywhere, high end fluids/gaskets, and quality parts to make sure they will not fail during daily use. Most all the parts I bought were brand new unless it wasn't critical like the used headers. It took me approximately 1 year to do it all but could've been done in half the time if I dedicated more time to it. If I can figure out the picture situation I'll load some on here but until then all my pics are on Flickr via my signature below. Thanks Travis
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Hey Everyone, After months and months of consideration, my 1976 280z is getting a new life. I've had this car for 2 or 3 years and have had it mostly running, but keeping finding small anomalies that turn into more and more fixes, and more questions about what the POs were trying to do with it. Well, my OCD has had enough and it's time for me to know every square inch of this car and have it the way I want it. I'd like to share this project no matter how it turns out, whether it helps someone else, or any of you all want to throw in your 2 cents - I would appreciate some veteran knowledge. Wants: 300+bhp, decent handling, decent brakes, keep it classy looking with exception to wide-body mostly for grip, mostly stock looking interior with sound deadening and added comfort, a much cleaner wiring layout that's color-blind friendly. To achieve all this, I was initially trying to decide between an S54(M3) or LS swap. After some research I'm definitely leaning towards LS with my skill level and budget. I know there's nothing original about it, but I have enough battles to fight - I'm going to keep this part easy. I'm still debating between the 280yz or Subtlez kit, and may likely do YZ rear and Subtlez front - I'm not sure I really want to be running 10-12" wheels square. Budget? I don't have a solid number, mainly because I will take my time to do this right. IF this were to creep over $20k, I'm doing something wrong basically. I know there will be "while you're in there" costs, like bushing kits etc. At the moment I'm just tearing it all down and organizing everything in a separate room with bags and labels. I have some unknowns at this point to digest until I get to them - how I want to remove the paint (grind, sandblast, etc), sound deadening (dry ice chisel, sandblast?), and any remaining adhesives/insulation (sandblast?, chemical?). I read sandblasting the exterior could cause some warping issues, but I haven't dug that deep on that specific subject yet. Anyway, I'll keep this updated, and hope to learn a lot and help anyone else doing this as well. Thanks
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Hey Guys! My name is Chapin, and im a 19 year old collision repair and refinishing student from Iowa! I was going to post in the new members, but i will be posting updates and photos as i go, Im also looking for input from experienced members! I purchased a 1976 Datsun 280z recently. I haved always loved the s30 body lines and decided to find one that i could rescue. The car needs plenty of body work but im not concerned, it still has a reasonable paint job but being that it was driven for several years in Minnesota it will need a touch of rust repair or replacement. The motor was stripped of the factory fuel injection, (I assume the owner ran into problems) and installed was a Holley 390 4 Barrel and Arizona z car intake. Ive had some time trying to figure out the carb, but with some help ive got the car up and running with a slight timing issue. One question is: Im not sure what route is the best in this situation, my ultimate goal is to restore and also build a classic car. And im looking into all sorts of motor swaps. basically my thoughts are * Rebuild with triple weber carbs * sr20 * later zx turbo motor * buy an l28/rebuild I just wanted to say Hey! and let you know that im anxious to learn! Im also open to some paint color ideas im sure i havent thought of every color! but right now im leaning towards the Emerald Green Metallic
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I found a 1976 280Z with a completed 350 conversion for sale. The work looks excellent and the overall condition is great! He's only asking $3,000. However nothing electrical works. It runs and drives but the gauges, lights and wiper do not work. I was wondering if anyone had an idea what the problem could be? I'd like to buy it but not if I have to spend all my free time tracing down gremlins. Thanks!
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I have a 1976 280Z coupe, with a busted driver side window. The door has a lot of problems too: bad lock, broken door handle, and rusty. I live in the Fort Worth area, so If I can find someone local, would prefer that before looking into getting something that bulky shipped. I will also settle for just the door glass, if I can't locate a door. Thanks, Michael
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Hey everyone, I've got a 1976 S30. It's effectively stock as far as the EFI system goes, all I've done is change the plug wire connectors for the injectors and I've replaced the fuel send lines with new hose. Of course I also put a new filter on it after I got it as well. During the summer, it started having an issue where it would randomly lose engine power entirely for brief moments- a number of seconds, really. Then it would pick back up and drive normally. I thought it was just crud working its way through the lines from the gas tank and I wasn't too concerned about it. Shifting up a gear would usually make it stop. Then it started to bog down on the rare occasion. It would run rough, misfire, had no power, and wouldn't rev over 1500 rpm (or if it did, it went kicking and screaming). I would drive it for a minute and then it would start running normally. On my way to my first day at a new job last month, it died in my neighborhood and wouldn't start again. My dad and I were trying to push it back that night but it was tough since it was on a slight slope. He went to get the truck to pull it back and I decided to try starting it again to see what it would do. It caught a couple times and then finally coughed back to life. I changed the fuel pump thinking it was the old one going bad. I used an Airtex pump from O'Reilly (I know, you're probably rolling your eyes now) and installed a Fram G3 between the tank and the pump to keep tank crud from messing up the pump. It worked fine for a couple days and then the issue came back with a vengeance. As it sits now, the car idles fine. Driving it, it starts to stumble around 2500 rpm and the power cuts completely at ~3000 rpm. It's almost undriveable unless I'm really careful with how high I rev. Even then, it can be fussy. The general manager of the auto shop I work for knows the car really well so he helped me diagnose it on Saturday. He checked and adjusted the TPS and AFM. We tried a new computer since we had one laying around and there was no change. He checked for leaks on the intake and found none. He removed the vacuum from the FPR on the fuel rail and fuel pressure rose accordingly which, if I've read correctly, means that the FPR is functioning properly. The last thing we did was check fuel pressure (probably should have done that first but hindsight is always 20/20). It was running at 32 psi @ idle and under load (revving the car) it would dip to ~30 psi. If I'm correct about the FPR working properly, I've narrowed it down to 3 suspects: - The G3 filter I installed between the tank and the pump - The new pump - Fuel damper near the pump I read about people installing the G3 so I thought it was a good idea. The pump is new, but it is a random O'reilly brand. Since I was having issues before and after replacing the pump, that leads me to believe that the issue does not lie in the pump setup I installed. My old OEM pump was probably still working alright for its age. As I type this, the most plausible cause in my eyes would be the fuel damper. I'm not sure what the symptoms of a bad fuel damper are, however. Anyone have any suggestions? I'm going to try running it without the filter when I get the chance, but I've been obscenely busy the last few days. Thanks. Pac_Man
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Finally almost done with my restoration of a 1976 280Z 2+2 for my daughter! Interior installation, paint touchups, and new emblems left to complete this 2 year project. A little background first! I love Z's and was looking for a new restoration project two years ago. My daughter had already decided when she was 10 years old she wanted a Mustang for her first car and being the loving father I am, I told her I would buy her one for her 16th birthday if she maintained her grades despite my personal distaste for the cars. One weekend three years ago, we were headed to the movie theater and I saw a 1978 280Z coupe at a used car lot on the way and had to stop and check it out. Halfway thru the test drive my daughter suddenly saw the light and announced she had changed her mind and wanted me to build her a 280Z because it was so much cooler than a Mustang and no one at her school would have a clue as to what kind of car it was! She is not follower and constantly bucks the status quo every chance she gets. It had been quite a number of years since I had worked on a Z and was looking for one for me to restore for myself but who can deny the next generation the beauty and power that is the Z! So my quest began the following weekend for a 2+2 to restomod for her. After about 3 months of searching I found a CL ad locally (about a 2 hour drive actually) with 1977 280Z 2+2, Auto Trans, perfect dashboard, SU Carbs!!, and a dark metallic blue, yay no color change needed, saves me a little on paint and sanding! PO claimed it had been running until recently when he developed fuel line problems and parked it not having the money to fix it. I picked it up for what I thought was a steal at $700 considering he started at $1500, rented a car dolly and headed home towing my conquest. As I began work to get the motor running I quickly determined the car had not been running for more than 7-8 years because the fuel had spoiled, fuel lines were filled with molasses, gaskets were separated and every time I cranked the motor, tar spewed from around heads. Not good at all! Thankfully, Slow78Z forrm this forum had just listed his 78 L28 with Auto for sale so he could do a V-8 swap. I drove up to Topeka, KS(3 hours) in January 2011 in record snowfall condition to claim my prize. Slow78Z had the motor and trans already on a pallet and all the extra parts boxed up and ready to go upon my arrival. Great guy and very helpful! I returned triumphantly to my garage and unloaded my prize and then spent the next 3 months in the hospital with kidney problems. Spring arrived and my health had returned so it was time to get going on the car. So off to media blasting first because during my health layoff, paint had started to peel all over the car especially the door jams, revealing the dull red original poorly sanded paint underneath the dark blue crappy paintjob as well as bubbles under the paint I had missed on first inspection. So here we start with the first set pics and you can tell from these that my luck had not changed yet: Devastating amount of bondo and rust throughout almost every major body part makes this a total waste of time for me. The bondo on the sides of quarter panels is not filling hail dents, these are 1/4" layers of bondo covering holes from rust thru of the body. Light steel work and patch panels I can handle with no problems but full inner and outer skin replacments, rocker replacements, on top of an engine/tranny swap was too much for to take on at that point. Best option, right off $1500 invested at this point and find a better car to start all over with. Craigslist to the rescue and the plethera of Z Cars over in OKC, OK it seems fate is smiling again! $3K for a low mileage 1976 2+2 280Z with auto trans and a fair interior. Running and driving nicely but with a lot of brake noise when stopping. Better than swapping a motor out! No hood vents on a 280Z? That was new to me! Weak Silver paint job over original silver metallic with an interesting painted pin stripe pattern... Nice scratch down the driver's side fender, easily workable metal issue... The worst rust found on driver's rear quarter at the bottom, will require some new steel welded in for sure... Surface rust under paint on passnger's rear quarter, smaill pin holes would be found and brass soldered after treament... Passenger's fender had small dent at edge of body line, a little hammer and dolly... FI L28 clean as a whistle, will replace all the gaskets, seals, hoses and do a full tune up to ensure motor is clean as it looks... These have to be the ugliest the tail lights anyone had ever put on a 70's car! That's OK, i have a plan to surprise my daughter with an omage! And right to the plan I go... First I remove the old tail lights and surrounds... Then I use a partial sheet of 1/2" foam insulation to make a template... Template cut and new tail light buckets fitted for mock up... Yes, that's right 65-66 Mustang tail lights mocked up on template! I will have to grind down the top edge of the repro light trim because the top edges are thicker than the bottom due to the sloped tail light panel on the Mustang. Now off to the machinist with the template and have the new panel cut from 18 gauge steel. Once it is welded in and skim coated it will look factory installed, hopefully! Next step while the machine shop works their magic I remove the park benches and alos remove only the front bumper shocks, these will be re-purposed later, but I cut off the rear bumper shocks first leaving the open tubes of the shocks, just wait, you'll see why! Don't forget if you cut off the bumber shocks at the tubes, remember to release the pressure and drain the fluid out before cutting off the shock tubes! Here's the custom bumper supports my body man and I came up with. Using 1" square tubing we removed the shocks from front bumber mount plates and welded the tubing perpendicular out and then welded another piece of tube across to provide front bumper crash protection of up to 10MPH. We welded the tubing directly to the rear shock tubes for rear skirt support and protection of the gas tank up to 10MPH crashes. While the body shop completes the front and rear skirt/bumper supports I pull the seats and make a run to my local Hot Rod Holstery shop. My daughter had changed her mind on color from dark metallic blue to a bright red, "as bright a red as you can find" were here exact words! I find a remnant of red and black Houndstooth heavy duty cotton fabic on Ebay and know exactly what to do with it! It's winter time now and auto upholstery shops are hungry for business so I negotiate a sweet price of $700 to repair the vinyl and insert the Houndstooth into both front and back seats. Sorry a little washed out color due to the bright sunlight... Oh yeah, before we added the bumper supports, I took the vented hood off my 76 Coupe and swapped it out on her car so we could trick out the hood with a little custome mod... Before I show you that mod, I mock up all the fiberlass parts. I bought the MSA Type 3 front and rear skirts, MSA Type 2 side skirts, and Classic Z Spoiler. Once mounted and mocked into place, you need to make sure all gaps are consistent and fit is type against the body. Simple trick I use was to place duck tape on the body centered behind the edges of all fibergalss parts. Once all the edges are trimmed to allow for a tight fit against the body I fill any gaps with polyester body filler so that all gaps are smoothed right up against the body. The aluminized duck tape does not allow the filler to adhere to the body and provides easy separation with a nice smooth fit. All the body peices can now be removed for sanding, priming and blocking. Now back to the my little hood mod! A little trip to the interweb and Ebay lands me AutoLouvers store where I find some louvered panels- 11 louvers, angled, 7"x16" panels... Now we trace the original vent shapes onto the new louverd panels, cut them out, test fit and trim if needed. Warning never weld on these hoods if you can avoid it! You are dealing with two layers of thin sheetmetal and warpage can occur very easily! Now that we have our perfect fit, get some 3M two-part epoxy. Read the directions thoroughly and follow them precisely. What we did here was use the 3M epoxy to "weld" these two metal sheets together. When done properly this 3M epoxy is stronger than steel you are bonding together! It is also sandable once cured so apply it liberally and don't be afraid to ooze it out of the seems and lightly smooth leaving you plenty of excess to sand done for smooth lines and factory finished look. Secure each panel in place with "C" Clamps temporarily. You have plenty of potable time for adjustment, while scured in place with the clamps place a self-tapping screw every 2" around the outside edges to ensure a secure bond and to force the excess epoxy out of the edge lines to provide a smooth tight finish. Once cured out 24 hours later you can simply remove the screws(some may have to be grinded off) and then you can start sanding the excess epoxy off with 80 grit and then use a polyester filler for final sanding and to fill your screw holes. This is how it should look after sanding and priming! Now to the rest of the body repairs, priming, and final blocking! Hail dents removed from roof and ready for skim coat. DA sanding the two layers of silver metallic and then on to skim coating... Now to the first quote of primer! And finally your first look at the modded tail light panel welded in. Sorry but earlier pictures were corrupted and lost... After days upon days of block sanding progressing from 300-400-600-800. We are ready for the first color coats! I chose the redest red you can find 2012 Ford Race Red Code PQ. This is a two stage paint used on Ford Focus, Mustang, and Special Order F150 Trucks. Stock paint makes it easily available for repairs and touch ups. So now we have every thing painted with 4 coats of basecoat each coat color sanded with 800 grit. Then it's on to 4 coats of clear for that glass like shine. Color sanded again and then buffed out for final assembly. Here it is as it came out of the paint shop on June 14th, 2013 partially assembled. I am currently installing the custom grill screens I made and painted satin black. I also have 350Z emblems to replace the fender emblems and the Nissan Z front emblem in black chrome for the nose. I also, used Dupli-Color's Chrome Blackout to give that black chrome look to all the original chrome around windows, roof rails, door handles, and locks. Still have to finish installing interior, stereo, speakers, fog lights, new carpet, re-surfaced interior trim pieces, and whatever else I forgot to do earlier! I will post the final pics in the next couple of days as I finish things up! Thanks for reading along and let me know what you think!
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Would love to find the rubber bumper ends for all four corners of the bumpers. These are crazy hard to find!
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Really need a pair of 2+2 side skirts. ZStore has been backordered for 45 days now and no one else seems to have pair in stock either. By chance does anyone have an unused pair available?
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I just got this car. It was sitting for awhile but starts right up. It needs work but don't know where to start is there anyone in the san Francisco area that has advice. He did tell me he has added a new radiator and new spark plugs, bushings, etc... Help???
