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Showing results for tags 'Carburetor'.
Found 15 results
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Hello everyone I have a nissan laurel c32 equipped with L24s 6 cylinder engine and I’m trying to find a replacement for my old carburetor, I’m here to ask if the weber 32 36 will fit, I noticed that i have a fuel inlet and outlet in the oem carb and most what i found only inlet i believe this is because i have electric fuel pump
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I have several things for sale I have removed from my Z over the years. Everything is located in New Jersey and mostly negotiable (I'm not up to date on most of these prices so here's what would make me happy). Weber 32/36 DGV carburetors with E88 manifolds, balance tube and linkage that should be complete. These could probably stand to be rebuilt but did run when I took them off ~2 months ago to install triples. $250 Unused Cannon triple Weber DCOE manifold with linkage and carburetor mounting/insulation kits: $250 sale pending Old Canon exhaust manifold. My research tells me it is a Canon manifold which haven't been produced in some time. Comes with a collector to a 2.5" exhaust: $150 Four Eagle Alloy wheels. My last measurement put them at 7.5" wide with 4x114.3 and 4x100 patterns. All of the tires pictured with these are 225/50R15. Two of the tires are badly scalloped although the other two are Toyo Proxes4 and in decent shape. The tires can be dismounted and discarded if desired, I don't expect anything for them. $200 240Z master brake cylinder. Came off my '72. No leaks or bleeding between seals when it was removed around May. I went with a 15/16th's cylinder for bigger brakes: $50 240Z distributor with a Pertronix electric ignition conversion box and 3 year old NGK plug wires. Upgraded to a 123 Ignition unit: $75 Finally, the pièce de résistance, one fabulous aftermarket 'Z' steering wheel. I don't know a thing about this other than it will bolt right in place of a factory steering wheel and use the original horn contacts. It was the first thing I took off my car so a $20 bill would thrill me: $20 SOLD
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Hey y'all, I have a 1981 280zx NA that I slapped a turbo and carb onto in a blow through setup. I'm using a Holley 350 street avenger with nitrophyl floats, main jet extensions, manual secondaries etc. My question is, I have a fuel pump that puts out 7 - 10 psi at 30 GPH, and a FPR that is not boost referenced from a Holley 12-803 that limits between 4 1/2 and 9 psi. Can I keep this fpr and not have to buy a new one? I'm absolutely fine with running more rich to sacrifice power but being safe. I haven't changed out the Jets at all and don't want to run it until I know the answer. Running about 6 - 7 psi of boost -
New SU carburetors made in the U.K. specifically for Z's! The set comes with street-able needles installed. Easy to set up and tune! Check out our store! www.roundtopsfuelsystems.com Factory air cleaner adapters under development, we should have some for sale soon!
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Anyone have triple weber dcoe and manifold they want to sell?
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I am looking for a complete 45mm triple carb setup with the manifold and linkage. The condition be can be whatever if the price is right. Keep in mind a brand new set of Webers from MSA is $1,650.00 so I am looking for a cheaper price than this.
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Hey everyone, This is my first post to the forum, and I have a project and a few questions to share. I'm currently working on building a 6 carburetor setup for my l28 and have decided to use 6 30mm Mikuni motorcycle carburetors. I've selected these based on the airflow requirements of the engine while accounting for volumetric efficiency, engine speed, and of course engine size, and by comparison to some other carburetor setups (triple webers, various SU setups, etc). Needless to say, the Mikunis won't be compatible with the existing N33 intake manifold I'm currently running, so I plan to fabricate one from steel sheet and tube. My question relates to the ID sizing of the new intake manifold. I've read a rule of thumb that says the throttle body at the base of the carburetor should have an area that makes up 80% of the intake manifold cross sectional area. Based on this, I'm approximating an intake manifold ID of 33.54mm (see calculations below) Area of throttle body at carburetor base= (15mm)^2*3.14=706.5sqmm Area of intake manifold =.706.5/.8=883.125sqmm Radius of Intake manifold=(883.125sqmm/3.14)^(.5)=16.77mm Diameter of intake manifold=33.54mm Can anyone confirm whether this 80% rule of thumb is safe to go by? I know there are other considerations to make when it comes to resonance tuning and airflow, but I've had little luck finding anything conclusive. I'm also considering sizing the new intake manifold to match the ID of my existing N33 manifold and N42 head. Given the simple construction of the new manifold (going with steel tube and steel sheet), fewer changes in diameter might be better. Abrupt changes in diameter of the tube will cause turbulent airflow, which, while potentially useful for achieving an even fuel mixture, could also reduce throttle response (thus my reasoning for matching the new manifold to the head). Does anyone know the size of the holes where the head meets the intake manifold? I've done some searching around the forums but am unable to find this bit of information. Thanks for your help! Any and all advice is welcome. pkz
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I am on the search for a complete set of use-able / rebuild-able triple DCOE carburetors. Either 45mm Weber's or 44mm Mikunis is what I'm looking for. I would need everything to install into a 280z with an L28. Can work on trades as well, please see my for sale posting. -
Has anyone ever used the EMPI HPMX carburetors on a Datsun before? I tried to do some searching and couldn't find much of anything? http://vwcatalog.empius.com/vwcatalog/2014/60.html https://www.youtube.com/user/EMPIHPMX/feed They are mostly used on VW air cooled engines, but I don't see why you couldn't just bolt them right up. They have a few videos showing dyno results where they made a few more HP than there Weber equivalents.
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Found what I was looking for. Thanks everyone. Moderators, I wish to close this thread.
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Deleted for inaccuracy / insufficient information.
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I have an L24 with SU carbs. I've had this idea of the ability to go from carbs to EFI and back relatively easily.This would require a bolt on replacement for the carbs. I'd still be using the stock intake runners and air cleaner. I'd also try to keep the TBs the same length as the carbs. This is what I've doodled so far. This uses a compact EV14 injector: http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/media/catalog_resources/Injection_Valve_EV_14_Datasheet_51_en_2775993867pdf.pdf Some fuel rail I found the dimensions of: http://www.rossmachineracing.com/images/large/dash8wire.jpg And the flange patterns from the SUs. This drawing lacks stuff still. The idle air intake, I figure, could go on the sides of the TBs facing each other and be plumbed to a T where one adjustment screw handles both the TBs idle. The placement of the injector is arbitrary. I just plopped it there and it worked out that the fuel rail doesn't interfere with the stock air cleaner (orange line). It's angle's just 45*. I'm not sure how evenly the fuel would be distributed down the 3 asymmetrical runners with this set up. Probably over thinking that though. The placement of the throttle plate is arbitrary as well. I've merely spaced it 1 cm from the flange to provide room for bolting on the air cleaner. These should retain most of the stock throttle linkage too. This drawing also assumes that both the front and rear of the SUs are 44 mm inside diameter and coaxial. I'm not sure about this. I know next to nothing about injectors. According to some megasquirt literature though; If I want the capability to fuel around 150 HP then I need 2 injectors around 500 cc/min each. Any reasons why this might not be feasible? -
So I recently got a 260z last month and this problem has finally gotten to me. The infamous post emissions Flat top SUs are bogging when I lay the pedal to the metal. They will just begin to barf gasoline out the overflow valve if I start it up and rev it while the carbs are still cold. But this especially happens up in the hills (In Alaska) and no matter how slow I start up the carbs they will bog and puke up good gasoline. All I can do is floor it till what I assume is the floats go back up. Usually all it takes is flooring it till it touches off on 5k revs. But this problem is very persistant and when I come down from the hills after the carbs go cold all they wanna do is bog for the next 5 to 10 minutes. Now I'm just gonna guess this problem is from sticky floats and fouled up Emission carbs. (cept for all the emissions are taken off because Alaska)
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Hello, recently i just recently purchased a used set of weber 40 dcoe. But basically i am missing a few parts such as the three eye joints that screw on to the manifold, and one butterfly and throttle shaft. What had happened was i bought the set of webers that had the three pieces of linkage missing so i new i was going to need those. But me being an idiot i was disassembling the first carb without penetrating fluid so i stripped the heads of the screws that hold the butterfly and the throttle shaft in place and i had to drill out the holes. But the throttle shaft needed to be replaced anyways since one of the ends threads were stripped. So basically i need one throttle shaft, one butterfly, and three of the eye joints that screw in to the manifold. The carbs seem to be fairly old italian weber Dcoe 18 No. 9E ,with a cannon manifold. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Hello hybrid z I have a question regarding the triple weber carb kit that is for L series engines. Well i am planning on getting the carb kit but i'm not sure which one to get. Here is a video of my car specs on the engine are in the description. Not sure what cam but here is what i think it is Grind: 17036. Lift(In/Ex): .495/.495. Duration(In/Ex): 290/290 any thoughts on this.
