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Showing results for tags 'distributor'.
Found 21 results
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Good evening all, In the process of chasing down a high idle problem, and I decided to check everything was correct at TDC while I waited on some gaskets to come in. I have the car at TDC, on the compression stroke, both the valves in cylinder 1 are closed (I have the valve cover off to check them), my screwdriver is about halfway through the "lull" to tell me the #1 piston is at it's highest point, and the timing arrow is pointing to the 0 degree mark. HOWEVER, the keyed shaft (forgive me, I believe it's from the oil pump) from the oil pump to the distributor looks like it's off ~11-13 degrees. There are 32 teeth on the oil pump shaft right? So 1 tooth off would be ~11.25 degrees? Going to take a look at it this week, but just wanted to show some pictures and see what you all thought. I took the picture, threw it into OnShape, and then threw in the 5 degree line that the FSM calls out as what we're looking for. Thanks!
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Hey all, Sorry, been searching around here and a couple other Z forums, and haven't found anything where someone seems to have this same problem. On my 72 I've been in the process of trying to install some Z-Therapy carbs, but have started by tuning procedure on the ignition system. When I'm trying to advance or retard the timing I CANNOT turn the distributor in the distributor spacer (mounting bracket, block, whatever it's called). I've removed both the bolts (10 mm and 8 mm) which should have let the distributor turn and nothing. I've given it wacks with my rubber mallet, busted out a decent sized pry bar, and all along the way I've been covering the joint in PB Blaster. What's the deal... Here are some pictures to hopefully illustrate what I'm talking about. Thanks so much for your help.
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Ok so first off, some background info, when I got the car the PO said that the gas tank wouldn't fill up past half because of something loose. I also drove it 2 hours home. I had it in the shop and when I got it back, I would get on the gas and it wouldn't pass 3.5k rpm, I would try to floor it and it would just backfire like crazy. After awhile the radiator exploded. It went back to the shop and the mechanic put in the new radioactive and now the car doesn't even start. He though it was a bad distributor so he replaced it, that didn't fix it so he put my old one back on. I have some videos of the problem and some photos Car has a L28e from a 75ish 280z 5 speed
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In need of a complete, working 1982/1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo distributor/ignitor. I am located in 85120 I'm willing to hvw one shipped I need ASAP thank you.
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Wanted To Purchase...I need a complete distributor for 1978 280z. It needs to be a 1978 or an identical one from another year because I need it for parts. I have one from a 1973 240z and one from a 1981zx but the are different. I need it asap and will pay with Paypal or whatever fit your needs. Please don't rob me. It's just for parts. I installed a new Kameri oil pump and decided to rebuild the distributor while it was removed and I really do need it yesterday. Also, I have lots of Z parts so let me know if you are in need. Thank you Tommy B. North Myrtle Beach, SC 843 450 6512. (If I can't answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you ASAP.) 843 450 6512
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Hi everyone, I've read the how to article on here for using a stock tach with the MSD setup and was wondering if anyone had any experience using the stock tach in a 240z with a 280zx matchbox distributor. Looking forward to hearing some results! I'm trying to stick with the stock gauges as best as possible for a period look. Chris
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Looking for the complete package or parts of it for my 260z.
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Looking for the complete package or parts of it for my 260z.
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With my seating position, my small-diameter fat-ring steering wheel is blocking my tach view right in the key areas. OK for DD but already at the first autox I had to keep hunching over and was undesireably encumbered. So I'm looking to make a shift light/indicator for my 72 240Z. Still in the concept stages and any suggestions/resources/corrections are greatly appreciated; I've found a surprising lack of any information of this kind. Im aiming at passive electronics, but may consider Arduino. I'm comfortable with either but mostly just would like to figure out how such a shift light indicator would work when fitted to distributor ignitions - ie what that signal looks like coming off the coil, or similarly even just how a tachometer works in that sense. So really the key is confirming that it is a 12V square wave with frequency reflecting that of all spark plugs firing. I have a multimeter but no data collection hardware at my house. I presume its 12V at the positive terminal where the tach connects. I have a 3 ohm coil, no ballast resistor. I have an electronic dizzy but thinking about it as points seems viable and simpler, so my thinking that I'd like to verify (please correct if wrong): voltage builds in coil when the contact is closed then releases into plug when it opens. so i would think there would be 12V at the input terminal when the contactor is closed and goes to zero when it fires - thus spark signal could be considered a falling edge triggered event. Although necessary to make sure I'm thinking correctly, that level of detail isn't really functionally necessary as all we need is frequency of this signal. I could just determine the RPM I would like the light to go off at, then correct to 'revolutions per second' then multiply by 3 (inline 6 = 3 ignitions per revolution) and we have target cutoff frequency to design circuit for. Right? I havent thought through the circuitry too much yet but generally seems like it would just be: high pass filter (tweaked to frequency) --> inverter --> light (?) Arduino may have the advantage of multiple RPM set points without having to reassemble the circuit. Then just use whatever kind of light - maybe even under the windshield vents as a HUD As I said any recommendation / correction / resouce is welcomed. Thanks in advance. Ben
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I have a 280z with an 83 l28et swap. It has had a 3000rpm cut out for some time. I replaced the cap and rotor last night and after about 1 minute of idling fine it just shut off. Tried restarting and now i do not have injector pulse or spark. I belive the Cas has gone bad. My question is should the green signal wires coming to the Cas have 5v whenever the switch is on and the cas is unplugged? Or should they act as grounds when the optical reader goes over the slots in the encoder wheel
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I'm looking for a complete 79-81 280zx distributor and base mount. If you don't have a distributor and only have the base I will buy that by itself. Let me know what you got thanks.
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240z l24 w/ tipple webbers when I bought the car the owner had told me it had only been tuned to idle. it would run fine until you gave it gas and it would surge and start spitting out of the carbs. I had a guy come out and look at it and we mussed around with the carbs giving it more fuel but still had the same problem. I pulled the plugs and the were BLACK so that was not the answer. then we moved to the distributor and he messed with that for a bit and now the car wont run at all. If I have the distributer cap on it wont ignite but when I have it off it sounds like it wants to start but just wont and is still spitting out of the carbs. he says I need a new distributor but I want another opinion and am wondering if he just messed something up and I can do something to correct it. I am not an expert so im trying to learn. any advice or help will be appreciated . if anyone is in my area I would love for someone to come out and help and maybe teach me a thing or two. also I will pay if someone comes out thanks! -
I am building a turbo L28 engine stroked and bored to 3.1 litres with an upgraded turbo. I have the 1983 CAS dizzy driving my Microtech ECU and Igniter box. I don't have the wiring harness for the dizzy that has the Green, black, red, white wires from the dizz going to Gr/Ye, Black, Bl/Wh, Gr/Bl wires in the EFI harness. I have read every post on this and there are some that describe the connections that correspond on the dizz end to the colours BUT there isn't one that correlates with another, in other words there are CONFLICTING posts. So I really need to get the correct way round. Here are the options I have seen. Looking at the dizzy four spade male connector box with the screw hole for fastening the harness on the top left corner.(see pic): One post says starting at top left going clockwise: Red, Green, Black, white. Second post says (same rotation) : Green, Red, Black, White. Also, if I am reading the FSM correctly it agrees with post one above. Can anyone Please help and confirm which is correct? Many thanks guys. Andy
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So I finished a rebuild of a 1982 280zx Engine recently and put 4-screw SU carbs on it and a stock exhaust manifold with 2 inch pipe and a turbo exhaust back so I can drive it daily with out waking up the neighbors. This is going to be pretty long so go ahead and ask questions and thanks for reading. Now to my problem/question: Driving now during break-in the engine makes a bothersome sound for daily driving that has not gone away in 200+ miles of driving. It has a very lopey and gurgle/burble exhaust and rev characteristic that sounds like a car with a cam that is way too hot for the application even though my cam is the stock grind. The idle is solid and does not jump around more than 100rpm on occasion and falls back to normal without dropping low after letting off the throttle. I fell like the carbs are well tuned and not the problem but I feel like the issue has something to do with timing and/or various tuning adjustments/gap settings of the car. I cannot for the life of me find a 280zx distributor with a working Vacuum advance so I've given up on trying to find a working VA and come to grips with losing the mpg saving that come from the Vacuum Advance mechanism. After tons of research I found info on using mechanical advance only and ended up buying a distributor on a recently wrecked running car that I pulled off and put on with very little rebuilding. 1st. I put it on and centered the Stator/reluctor inside, checked for basic function, set plug gap to 0.040", checked compression (all cylinders ~160), rechecked my hot valve gap and did some small adjustments to specs. Wired up the E12-80 module (tach still works, lucky me). Also cleaned the ztherapy carbs out and set to baseline for initial start up. 2nd. Then I set initial timing to 10 degrees BTDC and revved the engine to get mechanical advance all in (I messed up resetting the timing pretty badly at first and caused a few massive backfires, but corrected it quickly and nothing seemed damaged). I read 22 degrees of mechanical advance at 3500rpms which seemed higher than I would want for mechanical only advance. 3rd. I bumped initial timing to 15 degrees and got 37 degrees total at 3500rpms again and the car began to drive a better than when I had the pertronix and 240z distributor on the engine but it still seems to have a decent amount of noticeable engine/valvetrain noise and still doesn't have the free revving capability many people claim comes from the 280zx swap and from other Z cars I have driven in. Tuned in the carbs best I could with unisyn for the smoothest idle, the smoothest I got still seemed rougher than it should be, and got 22 inches of mecury at idle from a vacuum gauge at the balance tube. 4th. Checked the distributor advance reference spreadsheet for my model, D6K81-01 which should actually have 17 degrees centrifugal/mechanical advance at 2800rpms. If that is true than I should be able to go to at least 20 degrees initial which I think might be better for smoothing out the engine and driving feel. Should I trust my timing light here? I am new to timing and did tons of research before attempting it so do you think it is possible I may have used my dial on my timing light incorrectly causing the reading to be a bit off? 5th. I have most of the parts from 2 280zx distributors I tore down as well as the 240z distributor so I'm going to try and rebuild a distributor from parts while I use the current one to drive my car daily and continue to finish engine break-in. The new one I build will have no Vacuum advance either cause none of mine are in usable, the 240z vacuum dashpot had a medium fast leak that keeps getting worse over time so it's not reusable either. I also heard that many rebuilt dashpots have the wrong advance setting and can damage the engine if used, plus I'm sure every breaker plate I have has the broken plastic bearing run. I'm asking here on hybridz cause we have no reliable distributor shops in the area so I can't have it recurved by a professional so I'll do it myself and learn from the experience. How do you go about re-curving the mechanical advance yourself? Like where do did you get different springs for the weights and how do you do this slotting thing to lower the total amount of mechanical advance? From what I understand about timing, advance, VA, idle/cruise mixture, and off-idle mixture it seems like I would want about 23 degrees initial and 12 mechanical to when all in. I would like to know how that sounds to you smart ignition guys and here suggestions or examples of your recurves. Additionally I would like to here your thoughts on everything else I have mentioned that you think might be causing the odd driving and revving (e.g. plug gap, exhaust, etc...). Or if you think this is caused by a completely different issue than let me know, cause I have the original 4-speed that I did a mild overhaul on while out, but I have not done any work to differential or the hubs so something could be catching or clunking in there. I'm not very sure of the fuel delivery system (small leak from the Facet fuel pump and weird FPR, and no fuel rail or retunr line, but fuel pressure checked out) so I'm replacing that shortly anyway.
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Today while doing some basic maintenance i noticed that my car has what appears to be a NA l28e distributor. Now I have a 1977 280Z with a l28et swap in it running Megasquirt 1 v3. The previous owner somehow connected the distributor to megasquirt. How big of a deal that is? The car runs but not that good. Since its a NA do I adjust the timing by twisting it. Should I replace it with a Turbo distributor?
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I need the wiring, including connectors, for the output from a late 280zx. Turbo electronic distributor. This is the dizzy with the single circular 360deg plate with 6 x output marks at 60deg intervals which connects to the 280zx ECU and is driven by a splined driveshaft not a straight tongue. I need the 4 pin (female) connector for the dizzy end with it along with a length of the wiring. The other end is not important but preferable if you can split it out from the loom. Alternatively I would be happy to purchase a complete "engine section" wiring loom as I can use this in stead of adding bits to my 260z loom. Can pay by PayPal or EFT. Thanks Andy -
I'm looking for the flat metal plate that bolts to the distributor and the aluminum spacer. I think thats the best way to describe it. I'm attaching a picture. I live in the Tulsa, OK area. If you are close I'll come pick it up. Chris
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Sorry thought I was in parts wanted. I'll re post there.
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I'm looking to gauge the interest in a custom plate to mount the later ZX distributor to the older [points] style base. I recently converted my distributor, but didn't have the luxury of acquiring the mount from the ZX donor; The mount being the aluminum collar that actually bolts to the front cover. Neither adjuster plate would work; the points plate did't fit the ZX distributor and the ZX plate didn't fit the points base. I ended up making up my own hybrid adjuster plate from some ~2mm plate I happened to have laying around. If there's any interest - I can't be the first one this has happened to - I can make a CAD file of the part available (I haven't developed yet because I've only made the one by hand). That way any CNC shop can cut/burn one out on the cheap, or print out a pattern to cut by hand. If there's interest, I'll take mine apart and draw it up.
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Wanted! 83 Turbo 280zx Distributor/Oil pump drive spindle (splined). I am installing a Microtech ECU on a F54/N42 setup in my 1974 260z 2+2. I have an '83 Turbo distributor (the very neat and simple later one with the flat plate crank angle sensor with 6 x sensor slots firing the pickup). I need however to find a splined type driveshaft for this as the one that came with the engine is the normal single gear parallel type. Otherwise does anyone know of an adaptor. Also, would buy the wiring harness that goes with this if anyone has one for sale? Cheers all
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Has anyone had this happen before? - Cruising along at a steady 2000 rpm, not doing anything unusual and the engine just stopped firing and I coasted to a stop. The details: The battery seems to be fine - I have power. The starter is cranking fine. I have fuel, and its going into the carb fine. I cant see any loose wires. How can I test to see if it is the distributor or coil or spark plugs? FYI - I have a 71 240Z with a SBC 350 my distributor cap shows some signs of melting on the outside, but I thought it was just cosmetic, and was that way before it was installed.
