docaam Posted December 6, 2015 Share Posted December 6, 2015 Worked on your harness a good bit today. I will make a list of things that will need to be done on the car to get a complete install. The check engine light wire is there with the necessary power wire, all you need is a light from an auto store. Also, the "check" wire from the diagnostics port is labeled with the necessary power wire, which will allow the check engine light to blink the codes when connected. All you need for that is a momentary button to connect the two wires. Things that are done: 1) removed all unnecessary wires (ABS, A/C, windshield wiper) 2) labeled all under dash wires (diagnostics, check engine light, tach, ign on, temp sensor, fuel pump, start signal) 3) separated knock sensor, backup light, and alternator connectors from lower harness Things yet to do: 1) wire up 3 relays with fuses for power 2) change temp sensor connector to work with the L24/26/28 sensor 3) run a power wire for everything that connects to the battery lug on starter (hidden in harness) 4) re wrap some of the untouched harness for looks pm sent would like to get something done similar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrcbonk Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 I was admiring your glovebox gauge holder. Do you remember where you got it? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 I was admiring your glovebox gauge holder. Do you remember where you got it? Thanks It's just a generic 2 pod holder. Found on ebay for around $10. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted December 24, 2015 Author Share Posted December 24, 2015 (edited) So I've come to the conclusion the 3.9 ratio R200 isn't doing the job. The gears are still quite tall. In my previous Z I had a 4.11 r180 which suited the RB trans very nicely. Well I came across a differential that will be a little more wild that that.. a 4.375 R200 w/ LSD. Wasn't cheap but it should make a big difference. The diff comes from an HR31 which was the first skyline to be equipped with the RB motor (rb20). The n/a RB25 trannys are the same as rb20's so it should be a perfect match without having to worry about too high of RPMs on the highway. The added benefit of the CLSD will make powering out of corners a night and day difference as well. Looks like the outer seals are new and original paint on the housing shows very little wear. Come to find out an R34 with RB25DE motor has a 4.364 rear end, so with this new diff I'll be getting it back to normal. Here's some info I found online: Final drive options ; /top speed / ft-lbs at wheel in 4th3.357 ---------------- 385km-------68.53.538 ---------------- 365km-------723.692 ---------------- 350km-------753.917 ---------------- 330km-------804.083 ---------------- 317km-------83.354.111 ---------------- 314km-------83.914.364 ---------------- 296km-------894.375 ---------------- 295km-------89.34.636 ---------------- 279km-------94.64.900 ---------------- 264km-------100 Edited June 14, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 (edited) ATI Damper is here. I wanted to replace the stock pulley mostly for the weight reduction benefits but the oem damper is also a part that can wear over time and if it fails can destroy your whole motor if out of balance. I've invested time and money into naturally aspirated sr20's in the past and reducing any rotational mass from the crank will result in better throttle response and a sense of a lighter car. In a turbo application you probably won't "feel" much of a difference with mods such as this but when n/a the change is quite noticeable. The ati damper is small in diameter so I'll need to run a small belt, and should be 5 to 8 lbs. lighter. I will weigh both and find out exactly. You can contact ATI directly and they can make you a damper with only one accessory belt for even more weight loss but it will cost you more money for them to custom build one. I opted for the off the shelf model with 2 row pulley even though I'll just be using one belt. Model 918598. Edited January 14, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 (edited) Edit: 2/29/2016 Did some routine maintenance today. To get some of the fluids that were left over in the engine out. I changed the oil after the first few drives and it came out creamy brown. It was sitting for who knows how long so this was my second oil change within a hundred miles or so and it looks a lot better this time around. Coolant was looking a little brown as well so I flushed that out as well and put in some fresh coolant in. There's a couple different OEM oil filters you can get for the RB series.. 15208-53J0A is what you will find when you look up what filter to use. 15208-55Y0A is what I prefer to run since the filter is twice the size. I also replaced the fuel filter to a 16400-N7605-JP which is for the 300zx, 280zx ect. Edited February 29, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted February 21, 2016 Author Share Posted February 21, 2016 (edited) Decided to get a proper seat. I like the oem look but I was sliding all over the place in the corners which doesn't exactly inspire confidence. I went with the Sparco R100 from the ease of install and oem like appearance. I used modified stock seat sliders and re drilled mounting points. The seating position is pretty much where the stock seats were, I was hoping to sit a little lower but this works just fine and I'm 6' 3". Ditched the 43 year old sun faded seat belt for a matching 3 point harness bolted to the stock locations. Edited February 21, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1969honda Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Looks nice, love the window crank to! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 (edited) Straight from Japan, Nismo solid shifter. Had positive reviews and non of the downsides of a short shifter. Features:By hardening the inner rubber of a standard shift lever, the amount of deflection is decreased. At the same time, the lever length was reduced by about 7.5mm, providing a stroke 10% shorter. This changes the rather soft touch of a standard car to a much more precise, fast feeling. At the same time, while the goal is to change to a quicker shift, an overly short shift stroke will result in poor, heavy shifting. Unlike a quick shift, the lever ratio has not been changed, so the transmission synchro is not effected and a moderately faster degree of shifting is possible. Installation is easy because the solid shift has the same basic dimensions as a standard shift. Update: Looks like I ordered the wrong part due to a poor description. I ordered the one for DET/DETT. I have the proper one ordered now. I originally ordered 32839-RN595 and I needed 32839-RN40 Edited March 7, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted March 1, 2016 Author Share Posted March 1, 2016 Was playing around with my FLIR One thermal imaging camera and thought I would share some pictures. This could be a nice tool to see before and after of intake ducts, brake ducts, ect. These were taken about 45 min after a drive. Rear Diff: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ereschkigal Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Is there a scaling on the pics? We can see the differential but actual temps would be nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disepyon Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Your interior is so freaking clean!! That new seat is classy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted March 1, 2016 Author Share Posted March 1, 2016 Is there a scaling on the pics? We can see the differential but actual temps would be nice. Their isn't a temp scale but you can pinpoint an area for a temp reading. It's due for an update so I'll have to see whats new. Your interior is so freaking clean!! That new seat is classy. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 How much headroom do you have with the R100? I really like the look of those seats, but I'm taller than you are and worry about my headroom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted March 2, 2016 Author Share Posted March 2, 2016 How much headroom do you have with the R100? I really like the look of those seats, but I'm taller than you are and worry about my headroom. Like I said they sit pretty much where the stockers were but the padding isn't worn out so you feel a pinch higher, I just offset it by reclining the back one noch more. If your much taller than me I would suggest getting an aftermarket seat bracket, ( Planted makes one that looks decent) and bolt the seat directly to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 I guess I should have specified. My car didn't come with stock seats, so I don't have those as a comparison. Right now it has Cobra Imola ProFits in it, but they're pretty harsh for the street IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted March 2, 2016 Author Share Posted March 2, 2016 I guess I should have specified. My car didn't come with stock seats, so I don't have those as a comparison. Right now it has Cobra Imola ProFits in it, but they're pretty harsh for the street IMO. This should help more than I can.. someone measured from the bottom of the seat to the roof. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113348-sparco-r100s-in-a-240z/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 (edited) Oops! Edited March 3, 2016 by winstonusmc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 (edited) Nismo shifter update, got the right one in today. Not shorter by much at all but angled very different. The angle reminds me of the stock shift lever and it places the knob slightly closer to you which is nice. Feels more solid than the other one, it's raining so I can't go test it out right now but I'll update this post after a road test. Stock: Nismo: Edit: Shifting feels great, notchy like it was with the old factory trans. Very happy with it! Edited March 9, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 edit: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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