Perfect240z Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 So I've been cleaning this for about a week now, I soaked in hot simple green for a few hours, turning it on all sides to losen the dirt, oil, etc. I'm now wondering what is acceptible in the Z world as ready to be put back together? This isnt in anyway race track ready or anything, but even though you can still see old HG on here, its really smooth and flat. Is this acceptible to get my engine up and running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perfect240z Posted January 21, 2013 Author Share Posted January 21, 2013 Would you run this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78zstyle Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 Yup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 (edited) Doesn't look good enough to me but it's hard to tell from the pictures. What did you actually use to remove the gasket material from the surface with? Some staining is okay but that looks more like stuck on bits, especially around the top left hand quarter of the head as in your picture. Edited January 21, 2013 by djz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 I use an angle die grinder and those plastic wire wheels from harbor freight. They have the cup type and the normal wire wheel ones. The cup ones are gentler and seem to work better IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 I wouldn't run that. How are you going to check for warpage if the deck is not clean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 Thats not ready for a engine should look like this , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perfect240z Posted January 22, 2013 Author Share Posted January 22, 2013 I used simple green, acetone, and then after those i ended up using paint stripper and air craft stripper with a paint scraper. I didn't want to use a razer blade because its really soft aluminum, even though Ive so many people using that method I don't like that idea, I'll keep at it though. Head should be straight though, that Im not worried about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 The main issue with razor blades has to do with technique, not the tool itself. You need to keep the blade FLAT, and since they warp easily that means you need to keep the pressure minimal. This also means you have to avoid getting too much of the blade off the edge otherwise it will again... warp, and then gouge the corner of the edge you were running off of. I've scrapped several heads with just razor blades and I'm not sure I'd do it any other way unless I had access to machine shop type tools and could take just a .001 or less off. But even in that case you'd want to get it as clean as possible first so you can verify how clean it is. I'd be careful with ANYTHING assisted, be electric or air. Any type of grinder will have the ability to create low spots. The rule of thumb in this realm is that if it's EASY to get the crud off, then it's too EASY to take metal off. You're looking for something that's more of a "buffer" than a "sander/grinder". Wire wheels are a big no-no. I haven't tried the mentioned plastic wire wheels, but they sound promising if used right. I'd still hook it up to something variable speed like a dremel to be safe though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Lathe Parting Tool Glass plate with 600 grit spray adhesived to it, and plenty of marvel mystery oil with gyrations in the lapper's traditional "Figure 8" whilst chanting "tocheaptapaya, tocheaptapaya, tocheaptapaya" ,,, best done in a thatched hut under the influence of The Betel Nut... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Lathe Parting Tool Glass plate with 600 grit spray adhesived to it, and plenty of marvel mystery oil with gyrations in the lapper's traditional "Figure 8" whilst chanting "tocheaptapaya, tocheaptapaya, tocheaptapaya" ,,, best done in a thatched hut under the influence of The Betel Nut... LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Take it to a shop and they'll clean it for like 30 bucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z Greek Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 I like Tony's solution. Wonder where a guy can get a hold of some Betel Nut........................................................ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 (edited) Is this how Tony D resurface head? I'm thinking about bring my N42 head to http://www.davescylinderheads.com/. Edited January 24, 2013 by tamo3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motomanmike Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 If you don't feel like doing it twice i'd heed everyone's advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 I have just used a razor blade and a thick metal block with some fine sand paper wrapped around it and have not had issues. This was a daily driver that I did no form of racing in at all. Literally changed the head gasket 2 days before a cross country drive and had no issues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z Greek Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Is this how Tony D resurface head? I'm thinking about bring my N42 head to http://www.davescylinderheads.com/. Perrrrfect. The only thing he lacks is the "figure 8" lapping pattern, and a mouth full of Betel Nut! Oh, and he's not chanting, "tocheaptapaya, tocheaptapaya." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skirkland1980 Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 The aircraft paint stripper spray does a nice job. Spray on thick and leave for about 10 minutes, repeat as needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 The funny thing is nobody uses those cans of "Aircraft Remover" to either strip aircraft or remove aircraft. The L24 block I split came aparts totally spotlessly clean- Gasket was a FelPro. I really appreciated that. The F54 was a disaster requiring hours of sober time with a low-angle clean razer blade to get the big stuff off. Then lapping table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perfect240z Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Lathe Parting Tool Glass plate with 600 grit spray adhesived to it, and plenty of marvel mystery oil with gyrations in the lapper's traditional "Figure 8" whilst chanting "tocheaptapaya, tocheaptapaya, tocheaptapaya" ,,, best done in a thatched hut under the influence of The Betel Nut... yes!! Ill be laughing myself to sleep tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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