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A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)


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I am... So sore. Between some of the car work and my workouts recently I've been crashing hard. Basically work, workout, Datsun each day. Some eating and sleeping in between of course. 

 

Anyway, got the rock guards in today with some 3M undercoating I have leftover. They were a PAIN to install. Had to get a bolt or two in first then really press on one end to get them close enough to thread. Installing them made me realize just how terrible the reproduction fenders really are. My passenger side up top has a big gap whereas the drive is pretty close. Not blaming Skillard on this one, thankfully the fenders look good from the exterior. 

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Edited by Zetsaz
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4 hours ago, Zetsaz said:

Having spent more time down there now I think the originals had another piece that covered the whole top.

 

FWIW this is what the OEM guards looked like that came off my 260z. I won't be using them (going to delete the mount holes as at least in my case they ended up being rust traps); I'd offer them to you but I'd imagine shipping from Canada would be $$$$.

 

Fatter end towards the front, p/s shown here IIRC:

 

 

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Edited by Noll
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On 2/17/2021 at 8:49 PM, Noll said:

 

FWIW this is what the OEM guards looked like that came off my 260z. I won't be using them (going to delete the mount holes as at least in my case they ended up being rust traps); I'd offer them to you but I'd imagine shipping from Canada would be $$$$.

 

Fatter end towards the front, p/s shown here IIRC:

 

 

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Hmmmmm.... that seems genuinely interesting. I'd be curious what shipping is! I've swung full GT direction, so most of my money has gone to comforts and cleaning things up instead of power lately.

Last bits of work I've done are:
-Replaced both flashers that seems to be failing intermittently with some new LED flashers for when I upgrade. Seems to be working okay right now, but I know with LED bulbs sometimes things get weird because of how brake or turn signal bulbs ground/differences in design depending on the brand.

-Ordered the center chrome trim for the tail lights.

-Ordered gas cap chain

-Ordered new horn switch (Mine from the S1 for my steering wheel seems to be missing one piece :()
 

-Also found out after realigning the front end after the ball joint replacement that the transmission rubber mount was really worn and there was a lot of play. Fortunately my alignment guy is a local Datsun friend, so he couldn't help himself when he noticed the strong clunking and started poking around when it was on the lift. Seems like my clunking might not be from the back end at all. New mount is ordered.

Edited by Zetsaz
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Replaced the trans mount today and burped the coolant. The stock 280 radiator and clutch fan are far more efficient than anyone gives them credit for. The clunking is much better but still not gone. 

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Had a ridiculously hard time bringing it up to a temp the thermostat would even open at. Had to completely block off the radiator. Only took about 10 seconds to drop back under 180 once I finished the job and removed the cardboard, then it kept going until it stabilized around 170. Have triple checked the thermostat and already replaced it. Might have to just partially block off the radiator until summer to get it to run at proper operating temp. 

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18 hours ago, Zetsaz said:

The stock 280 radiator and clutch fan are far more efficient than anyone gives them credit for.

Yessir!  And the reason I kept my stock fan and shroud.  In the win tunnel testing thread they determined that only a small opening in the front is actually needed to keep the engine cool and avoid front-end lift.

Edited by rossman
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On 2/23/2021 at 3:38 PM, Zetsaz said:

 

Hmmmmm.... that seems genuinely interesting. I'd be curious what shipping is! I've swung full GT direction, so most of my money has gone to comforts and cleaning things up instead of power lately.

 

 

I'll try and have a look soon, it's likely to be $$$$ though from canada due to the length of the panels.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not really much to update. Heater has worked fairly well, mostly no complaints cruising this past week with the nice weather we've had. Brakes have felt good. Really not many complaints other than the interior not being fully done and the IAC needing some more tuning. Protunerz recently showed some new versions of their intake manifold with a throttle body provision for the GM IAC and it's tempting me to just go turbo already... Maybe sometime. The trans cost to hold the power is still the big setback. 

 

 

Anyway, here's some random better pics with bumpers now. I'll be fully vaccinated by my spring break and I'm hoping to drive the pacific coast highway in the Z and camp out along the way. We'll see how that pans out. 

 

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@Zetsaz

She is looking gorgeous!

 

Same considerations as you. Its like you read my mind...

 

I bought the Protunerz manifold + downpipe set during black Friday. Honestly, the prices for these are really great when you think about what you are getting and compare to other custom tuner part suppliers sell for. Hussain is also just a super nice and thoughtful dude. He will probably have another "pre-sale" over summer/fall and can probably get the whole package for ~$1,600

 

I recently bought Derek's bellhousing for the CD00A to mate to an L-series. 

Working on the parts for the Mustang GT Torsen rear-end

 

 

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On 3/14/2021 at 2:55 PM, jpndave said:

Yes looking great. She's a beauty! Love how the color turned out. 

 

I love the color! Glad I took my time picking it. I've been keeping a close on eye on that bubbling in one spot, and it's the same as always. Makes me think it was just some solvent pop. Still haven't committed to how I want to correct it, but it'll either fix itself with wet sand before I take it somewhere for a proper cut and polish which we never did after paint. 

The mild clunking is way better but still driving me crazy. I think next step is fixing that driveshaft and considering a throttle cable instead of the mechanical linkages. the linkages are mostly working fine but at very low speed/low throttle the control is just not what I want out of it. 

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Minor adjustment today:

Was frustrated with low speed throttle control. Compared my tune to @madkaw's. Of course I can't use the same tables, but some of the setting can be very similar.

I raised the TPSdot% threshold for accel enrichment and its SO much better on low throttle now. Nice to have some other guys running similar setups to compare to.  Don't think I'll need to mess with replacing the linkages since it's feeling much better. 

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19 hours ago, Zetsaz said:

Minor adjustment today:

Was frustrated with low speed throttle control. Compared my tune to @madkaw's. Of course I can't use the same tables, but some of the setting can be very similar.

I raised the TPSdot% threshold for accel enrichment and its SO much better on low throttle now. Nice to have some other guys running similar setups to compare to.  Don't think I'll need to mess with replacing the linkages since it's feeling much better. 

I went to cable linkage and no regrets . Glad someone gets something from all I’ve posted over the years 

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On 3/26/2021 at 6:31 AM, Jboogsthethug said:

Nice! Did you tune it yourself?


Mostly. @Chickenmanwas kind enough to give me some baseline afr and timing maps despite not doing megasquirt tuning anymore, and has given me lots of helpful tips. A lot of my settings I've compared to @madkaw's .msq files since he's one of few other people I know running full sequential timing/fuel on an NA L series. The rest has been mostly my tinkering. Haven't really bothered messing with AFR or timing advance maps just because I'm still running essentially a stock block. Not sure there's a ton more to get out of it without headwork and a cam if I stick with this engine long term, so I've mostly focused on drivability quirks that I care more about than big numbers. 

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This took too long. 

 

Finally got the diff top mount installed instead of the snubber. Still mild clunking but only out of a stop in first so I think whatever is left is mild play in the axles and adapters which is frustrating but I'll leave it be for now. Acceleration and cruising are noticeably smoother and now the giant bottom mount isn't making it more difficult to access the nuts and bolts on the driveshaft flange.

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Got a chance to cruise this weekend and get some feedback from @seattlejester. Biggest thing he noticed is some slop in the steering Shafter into the rack. I don't know if it's worn or just needs the big nut adjusted but I think I'd just gotten used to it. Either way I tightened down the clamps for now which were also a bit loose. Big hang up now is debating if I want to remove the front windshield to install the a pillar vinyl trim the "right" way. Either way, she's coming along nicely. Everything is just refinement now :)

 

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I have removed my windshield 3 times since replacing the gasket almost 10 years ago and have always reused it.

 

I just push it backwards towards the front of the car softly with some screw drivers (or soft plastic bike tire mounting things to keep from cracking the glass by accident). Work your way around the glass and it will slide out after you get about half way around. 

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12 hours ago, Zetsaz said:

now the giant bottom mount isn't making it more difficult to access the nuts and bolts on the driveshaft flange.

Great progress and the car is looking really good!  I may be one of the few people that think that the front crossmember/diff mount actually doubles as a stiffener for suspension loads.  I also have the RT style mount but also still have the crossmember there as a stiffener.  Anyway, it's just my $0.02...

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5 hours ago, rossman said:

Great progress and the car is looking really good!  I may be one of the few people that think that the front crossmember/diff mount actually doubles as a stiffener for suspension loads.  I also have the RT style mount but also still have the crossmember there as a stiffener.  Anyway, it's just my $0.02...


I think there's always some poor communication and terminology around this, sorry! I definitely still have the whole crossmember still on, it's just the bottom diff mount that isn't on it anymore.|

I know some people have cut it into two smaller pieces that only function to hold the control arms from the front end, but I'm not sure that's ideal

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