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Twin cam head for the L6 from Derek at Datsunworks


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This is all Tony D’s fault:)   Hi everyone. Some of you know me from my  DIY EFI manifold project http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/63445-making-my-own-efi-intake-the-first-casting/ &#

Machine work finished!   I can relax a little:) Just got done with their first bath. Still need de-buring and edge finishing but the majority of the work is done.    

Ready for battle!       Getting geared up to start machining the heads. Officially the first production run.    

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50 minutes ago, rturbo 930 said:

Sounds great! Yeah, it does sound like an L series still somehow, that was my first thought as well. Cool that it's in a car that's a driver and not a garage queen too.

That second video captures the sound better than anything I've done. He used a Gopro 7 and although the video is washed out the audio is really good. It is the most accurate capture so far. I've been using my iphone and even with external microphones it never quite got the right sound.

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  • 1 month later...
On 10/1/2018 at 5:20 PM, tioga said:

Seems like the channel in the valve cover is asking for the plug wires to be reversed and the bundle come out the back and over the starter. Then we could better see your valve block and hard lines. 

that's how I did my Jag 4.2 with EDIS it look much better than over the top of the cam cover.P1040268.thumb.JPG.68aacb772d4be8590c781cad95b84b40.JPG

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1 hour ago, jeffer949 said:

Amazing Derek!! whats red line on the one in the video? it sounds like its not breaking a sweat at 7k and is begging to be reved out.  Also, what transmission is he using? I think I see paddle shifters on his steering column. 

 

According to his build thread its a CD009. 

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2 hours ago, jeffer949 said:

Amazing Derek!! whats red line on the one in the video? it sounds like its not breaking a sweat at 7k and is begging to be reved out.  Also, what transmission is he using? I think I see paddle shifters on his steering column. 

Hi Jeff

He shifts at 7K but has run it up to 8K a few times. It is still pulling strong at 8K an the tuner feels it would easily provide power to 9K. I'm not sure what trans is in it now but I'm pretty sure he has a CD009 for it.  I talked to him today to check in and his comment was "it's scary fast"  No paddle shifters.

 

31 minutes ago, calZ said:

 

According to his build thread its a CD009. 

 

Diffrent build. That does have a CD009 but it's not running yet.

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14 hours ago, Derek said:

Hi Jeff

He shifts at 7K but has run it up to 8K a few times. It is still pulling strong at 8K an the tuner feels it would easily provide power to 9K. I'm not sure what trans is in it now but I'm pretty sure he has a CD009 for it.  I talked to him today to check in and his comment was "it's scary fast"  No paddle shifters.

 

 

Wow.

 

I can see it now, new threads here on building L28 bottom ends with titanium rods...."how do I build a 9k engine to be reliable?'"...heh

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There isn't a ton going on since things are starting to settle in as far as design and fab. One thing that has been hanging around is what to do for the lower chain and guide arrangement for the standard height blocks. Although the different setups I tested on the prototype all worked I was never super happy with them. I was trying to use the stock pivoting guide from the KA24 and the 92 link chain but it just wasn't happening. I ended up accepting that I would need to shorten the chain and make a custom guide. I'm no longer intimidated by breaking and relinking a roller chain. It's really pretty straight forward. Making a custom shaped guide allowed me to get the chain fairly tight with the tensioner all the way in. It also allowed me to get the lead in angle I wanted. The guide is made from molly impregnated nylon 6-6. This is the material I used on a fixed guide on the prototype as well as whats on my car currently. Nylon 6-6 has been used as guide material for a while so it's a proven commodity.

 

Here is the final version.

 

20190219151109-3c5306cc-me.jpg

 

Th notch in the back side of the guide provides clearance for the water pump area on the timing cover. Trying to adapt a KA24 guide always required removing a section of that area and welding up a patch. I was never crazy about that and that was what sealed the deal for me as far as producing a guide.

 

20190219151129-d2e9156f-me.jpg

 

This will be my "off the shelf" solution for anyone who doesn't want to engineer their own.

 

As of now 007 and 008 are sold. One is going to New Zealand  and the other to Australia.  Pretty excited about that for sure. I'll be gearing up for another run soon.

 

Derek

 

 

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