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280z FP Build

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Duh. I had never thought about it, but the countershaft is under the mainshaft, so yeah, turning it sideways or flipping it is the answer.

I remember the Porsche guys flipping transmissions for 914 swaps I want to say, but it was 25 years ago and I don't remember what all was needed. Sounds like a shift linkage nightmare on a T56, but your T10 and Jericos have external shifters, seems like it would be a lot easier to do on one of those.

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On 9/16/2022 at 10:58 AM, tube80z said:

I think the way Ben is spending he'll probably do that next year :-)

I am looking into watercooled credit cards at the moment ;)


I scored one of the Tilton bellhousing/starter motors for a good price. It's designed to use the 110T 9" flywheel with a 7.25" clutch. Planning to get the flywheel and clutch new so I can spec the spring weights from Tilton, and not worry about the friction materials. 


Tore down the L33, nothing too surprising inside, so I'm calling the machine shop for some parts advice and then the rest. 


Also picked up a 3.54 R200 diff from @Willflow, need to do a bit of investigating but I'm planning to re-bearing it and then put my rebuilt ATS LSD and s13 stub axles inside. We'll see, could be interesting. 


Might need to press pause on the dry sump for now, (see water cooled credit card joke from earlier) but those links are super helpful!!!


Side note, how to I get the little thumbs up button? I hear people talk about it but I don't see it. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've got the CHE kit waiting on my desk! I tried to buy the BTS 1.7 ratio rockers, but CHE specs that they slide into OEM ONLY! So, getting my return shipping pants on and ordered some factory style cores from Michigan Motorsport, along with a host of other parts. 


No big updates yet, just amassing parts and talking with folks. Got my Tilton bellhousing from Ebay, this one came with a reverse starter and is designed for a 110 tooth flywheel, rather than a cover mounted piece. I might need to machine the starter mount to clock the solenoid correctly, but it's a pretty simple 3 bolt pattern. 


The tilton bellhousing is really small, and way lighter than the old one I was using for the L. Gets me about 2" additional clearance, and seems like it should keep things nice and high behind the motor. 


the belly of the transmission is sitting on some lumber at a height where the old bellhousing JUST cleared the bench top. New guy is way up there. 


Also looking at dry sump parts. Thanks @tube80z for lighting that particular fire haha.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Small update. Been traveling a ton for work, so progress is limited to getting parts in the shop. Heads have been dropped at the machine shop, decking them by 0.025", cleaning them up and an inspection, along with fresh springs and Ti retainers. Gotta have a chat with them about which camshaft to use, but I'm leaning towards a BTR stage 3. 


My Apex Engineered subframe for the swap came in on Monday, and I set about installing it. Prior to my ownership of this car, somebody had crashed it. Drivers side wheel did something wild, and the tension rod went on a skyward adventure. It put a pretty reasonable dent in the frame rail, and pushed the whole thing in about 3/4".


nice little dent...


With adjustable suspension, it all aligned out, and apart from being a bit unsightly, never posed a problem. Installing the Apex piece tho, it was sitting fairly crooked, and I knew it was time to adjust the frame more or less back to where it came. 


this is fine, what are you worried about!?

I also noticed a small crack on a ripple, inboard of the sub frame mount. It's a fairly old crack, got a little corrosion on the face, so it's not from this bottle jack adventure, but that will require drilling, welding and plating. A good weekend project I think.




Got the Apex Engineered swap subframe in, and it's within 1/16" square measuring from the firewall, itself a bit sketchy, but it was 1/2" before!



Also got the dry sump tank in, and started mocking that into position. I have a buddy with a 4 stage Aviaid dry sump kit he's willing to part with, so I'm picking that up. 


yay more holes to cut. 


Getting excited to mock up the motor position, and get some more weight on the front of the car. I'm struggling to get the rear jacks far back enough, the nose is easily lifted by hand at this point!

Edited by Ben280
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/27/2022 at 10:20 AM, Ben280 said:

the nose is easily lifted by hand at this point!

Me too! 😂😂 you have seen those vids of me on IG pulling the Z in and out of the garage to sand body filler haha. Amazing how light the chassis alone is, especially when you have the rear suspension in as a “wheel barrow”

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  • 2 weeks later...

Small pre-black friday update. My buddy Mark came to help me out with a lot of the chassis wiring. We got a huge amount done, but there is always more to do it seems. He's gonna come back and do all the pinning for the AS connectors, since they require special tooling that I don't have.


Mark shrinking the T on the PDM run


Bulkheads for the wires, pretty excited about this.


Biggest will be the engine harness, 66 pins, and we are using 62 of them!


I also got the frame plated and the engine mocked. Using a reverse mount starter, so I'll need to cut some clearance for that thing, and I MAY need to re-make the Apex Engineered motor mount for the passenger side, depending on the dry sump setup, and how the pump wants to integrate. Really it's time to buy some parts and get this short block put together. 




Really happy with the motor placement so far. Nice and low and plenty far back. I picked up some CX Racing headers, which I expect to need to modify before final purpose. Ohm said they work well with their kit, but I'm thinking they will hang too low. 


IMG_9999 Large.jpeg

Ohm also send over some small fabrication parts so I can convert my sub frame from a long nose diff mount to a short nose diff mount! Still on the fence about using the Q45 diff I have or using a 350z/G35 center. I need to do some more gear math, but I'm thinking this will be a bit down the road once everything else is working. 

Edited by Ben280
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