grannyknot Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 Sweet, this car is going to kick ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironhead Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 Thanks Gents! I screwed up a few of the dimensions on my rear caliper mounting brackets and had to re-do them. Basically to mount the calipers on the T3 rear hub uprights you have to cut off the mounting tabs for the stock rear caliper. I just did this with a cut-off wheel, then cleaned up the edges with the disc sander. Then the upright is drilled and tapped for M12 bolts. The caliper bracket bolts on with these bolts and two (longer) bolts that hold the wheel bearing assembly on. Of course there are other ways this could be done, this is just what I conjured. I drew up the brackets in a CAD program and had them machined. Would not have been too expensive had I not screwed up the first set.... Also got the axles mounted. The entire rear suspension/diff/axle assembly went in pretty much without a hitch. T3 deserves a lot of credit for really thinking this conversion through. Also finished the plumbing for the diff cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 Great work as always. Those ARP bolts and nuts sure look sharp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 This is such a great build thread, but I the thing I'm in love with the most is the steering rack/column and pedal combo. That's all fantastic and so much better than the OEM setup (and likely saves a few pounds over the hefty stamped steel column mount). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironhead Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 4 hours ago, Gollum said: This is such a great build thread, but I the thing I'm in love with the most is the steering rack/column and pedal combo. That's all fantastic and so much better than the OEM setup (and likely saves a few pounds over the hefty stamped steel column mount). Thanks for the kind words Gollum. Honestly though, I don't think the setup saves a significant amount of weight. I just wanted to use a dual master cylinder/balance bar setup, with electric power steering, and the stock mounting brackets were in the way. The steering column mount I am using only works because the car is fully caged, which of course adds a lot of weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironhead Posted September 17, 2018 Author Share Posted September 17, 2018 I got the fuel cell, fuel filter, and vent system plumbed. I also mocked all the cell firewall cover parts into place just to make sure everything fits as I had intended. Also got the inertia switches installed. I had to use two of them because my fuel pump can draw more current than one is rated to handle. No wiring done yet. I am going to try to get everything mocked into place before I start that nightmare. Thanks for looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 That looks great! Is that the II Much VSR vent? I am using the same vent. However II Much is taking forever to get me a replacement after their recall. First it was back ordered, then I finally get it, and it gets recalled! Now its been 7 months... Beautiful product but come on man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironhead Posted September 18, 2018 Author Share Posted September 18, 2018 1 hour ago, LLave said: That looks great! Is that the II Much VSR vent? I am using the same vent. However II Much is taking forever to get me a replacement after their recall. First it was back ordered, then I finally get it, and it gets recalled! Now its been 7 months... Beautiful product but come on man. It is the II Much. It took me months to get it after paying them in full for it, but not THAT long. I inquired after waiting some time without receiving it, and I didn't really like the tone of their reply. Sort of like I will get it when I get it, after they had my money for months. I think they know that no one else sells something like this, and their attitude reflects that. If it does what it is reputed to do, I suppose it will be worth it. I really REALLY do not want my garage to constantly reek of gas fumes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironhead Posted October 8, 2018 Author Share Posted October 8, 2018 (edited) I had a few weeks where I wasn't really able to work on the car. When I got back on it, I started working on fabbing up the upper dash panel. I had trouble trying to mock things up with cardboard, specifically trying to figure out where to put the bolt holes so that everything lined up. I wound up fabbing the piece up with clear acrylic, which made the task vastly easier. Then I just transferred everything to aluminum and cut it out. The plan (currently) is to weld a tab to the front of the piece, onto which will attach CF panels on which to mount a digital dash and the various switches and controls. That will involve aluminum welding, which I screw up a lot, so we will see how it all goes. Thanks for looking. Edited October 8, 2018 by Ironhead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironhead Posted October 23, 2018 Author Share Posted October 23, 2018 Xmas in October! Ordered wheels in June and just today received them. They are Jongbloed model 214, 17X10 front and 17X11 rear. I was going for the '70s and '80s motorsport look, with gold centers and polished rims. My daughter thinks they look "ghetto". Now if I can get tires mounted, I can actually put the car on the ground and move it around! First time in 18 months. Thanks for looking.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted October 24, 2018 Share Posted October 24, 2018 On 9/18/2018 at 2:17 PM, Ironhead said: It is the II Much. It took me months to get it after paying them in full for it, but not THAT long. I inquired after waiting some time without receiving it, and I didn't really like the tone of their reply. Sort of like I will get it when I get it, after they had my money for months. I think they know that no one else sells something like this, and their attitude reflects that. If it does what it is reputed to do, I suppose it will be worth it. I really REALLY do not want my garage to constantly reek of gas fumes. I have the same feelings. Looks like a great product, if it works as they say I will be very pleased. I love that it is a small company. However their customer service has been down right terrible. Months and months have gone by, and now I see they are advertising on their web site that they can ship out new orders in two weeks. Hey what about the people who's money you already have? When do they get working product? Very frustrating. Back on topic. Man I dig those wheels! I think you nailed the vintage motorsport look. What color will the car be when complete? I was reading back up a bit. You may want to consider revising the inertia switch wiring. Not to be chicken little here, but if one is underrated to handle the switching capacity for your fuel pump, you probably should add a relay, let the inertia switch trigger the relay and interrupt the fuel pump power. The reason that parallel contacts to increase load capacity is not great practice is that, if one of the switches trips or fails, the other will take the full load and be overloaded immediately. If it is close to capacity, I wouldn't worry, but it if is double, I would consider revising. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironhead Posted October 25, 2018 Author Share Posted October 25, 2018 I have narrowed color down to two or three options...all non-metallics...very saturated colors. The leading contender is an aqua-green very similar to the color surrounding the "L" in your avatar.... I might still change my mind though. I am quite a ways from spraying paint. I hear what you are saying about the intertia switches. I know a relay would be the obvious solution, but I am wiring the car with a PDM, which is designed to replace fuses and relays. Yes I could have a signal from the PDM trip a relay, but that would also require another hot power wire coming from the PDM, and it has limited channels unless I want to spend the big bucks on a 32 channel unit...which I don't. One of the advantages of a PDM is simplified wiring...and adding relays defeats the purpose to some extent. But you are correct, and the dual switches have been bugging me for a while. It just isn't the "right" way to do it. I will probably change plans two or three more times before I am through this. I wish there was an inertia switch with more capacity, but I have searched high and low and failed to find one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 17 hours ago, Ironhead said: I have narrowed color down to two or three options...all non-metallics...very saturated colors. The leading contender is an aqua-green very similar to the color surrounding the "L" in your avatar.... I might still change my mind though. I am quite a ways from spraying paint. I hear what you are saying about the intertia switches. I know a relay would be the obvious solution, but I am wiring the car with a PDM, which is designed to replace fuses and relays. Yes I could have a signal from the PDM trip a relay, but that would also require another hot power wire coming from the PDM, and it has limited channels unless I want to spend the big bucks on a 32 channel unit...which I don't. One of the advantages of a PDM is simplified wiring...and adding relays defeats the purpose to some extent. But you are correct, and the dual switches have been bugging me for a while. It just isn't the "right" way to do it. I will probably change plans two or three more times before I am through this. I wish there was an inertia switch with more capacity, but I have searched high and low and failed to find one. I dig it. Saturated non-metallics will have that old school vibe. You could add a stand alone relay right next to the inertia switch without adding much wire. Circuited something like this sketch. The relay would be energized anytime the car is running and the inertia switch is closed, using a continuous duty relay, this is problem at all. If the inertial switch is tripped, it will break the relay. The PDM is still feeding power, but the relay has interrupted it. Most quality relays are continuous duty, so finding a 30A or 50A should be easy and inexpensive. Of course... I am an amateur and know just enough to get into trouble. Just a thought, the .02 cents, I am sure it will work either way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironhead Posted October 25, 2018 Author Share Posted October 25, 2018 Makes sense....I don't know why I didn't visualize this myself. I don't see any reason why that wouldn't work. I was thinking that the relay needed a separate switched on/off to close it....but it doesn't. Thanks man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironhead Posted October 28, 2018 Author Share Posted October 28, 2018 (edited) I finished the basic structure of the dash/instrument panel. Nothing fancy...pretty stark...but all I really needed was a place to mount a digital dash and a few buttons/switches. I am going to have the aluminum portion powder coated crinkle black. Car won't have air conditioning, but I did install a small heater element that will function primarily as a windshield de-fogger. I might put one vent in the dash to serve as a minimalist heater. I am trying to keep things basic and simple, but I remember a morning track event that was cold and foggy. Some guy took a "real racing car" out on track with no windshield de-fogger, and almost wiped himself (and several others) out because he couldn't see a damn thing. So I figured that inclusion was mandatory. Dash comes out very easily...just a lot of 6/32 button heads that screw into rivet nuts to remove the CF panels...in case I need to work on anything behind the dash. Or, the whole assembly will lift out if I remove the larger button heads on the top. Not being new to modified cars, I am pretty sure accessibility will come in handy down the road. Edited October 28, 2018 by Ironhead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironhead Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 Got car on its legs for the first time in 18 months. Camber and toe and everything are all screwed up, no point in dealing with it now though. Feels like a milestone... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeK Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 That's a big milestone for sure. It's a great feeling and will surely lead to enjoyable new aspects of the build. Looking forward to continuing to follow along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 I think green with gold wheels and will look really good! Keep it up, your hard work is paying off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max_S Posted November 12, 2018 Share Posted November 12, 2018 With the gold wheels you might want to consider a darker green for contrast, closer to BRG, for example. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted November 13, 2018 Share Posted November 13, 2018 Looks fantastic. What size tires did you go with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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