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3.2L twin turbo L28 stroker


HOTWYR

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Well i don't know much about the overall toque increases by either stroking or over boring but by the 'gross simplification' you guys have given me i believe that i now have a better understanding of were i want to go in terms of raising the displacement, a quick question though.

 

what's the difference between the n42 and f54 blocks and what are the safest overbores for all cylinders for both blocks? i've heard you don't really want to go over 90mm on the F54 block, is that right?

 

sorry if my lack of knowledge on these things might offend you guys thats why im asking the questions instead of just thinking everythying will work out, i must say it's better than what some people can say on these forums:mrgreen:

Edited by HOTWYR
mis spell
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Quick few questions.

With an ld28 crank and custom forged pistons and rods and displacement at roughly 3100 what would an overbore to 90mm do to the displacement? is 90mm the recommended limit for the f54 block? whats the safe bore limit of the n42 block?

 

or just a link to a faq page thnx cant find one

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Oh, hey, crap, I forgot, this might come in handy... http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

 

Don't take it for holy writ, no engine internal components should ever be "assumed" to measure ANYTHING. In other words, this is a great calculator for off-the-cuff idea working; make sure all measurements and clearances are as advertised when actually gathering parts!!

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thanx Daeron for that design program, that will come in really handy as i figure out the final details. Seems you've been on near the closest contributor here:mrgreen:

 

You are more than welcome, but I am just a data-gatherer. The guy who wrote the little program is a member here somewhere (I think) and just about everything I have said, has been said better by someone before me, so I can't take a whole metric ton of credit here TBH :redface:

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If you aren't able or willing to part with AT LEAST $6k then you need to re-evaluate your project. I'm not being cynical. I'm building a 2.8 stroker (yep, using a LD28 block and crank, P90a mech head, Isky custom cam/springs, L20b rods and JE 85mm custom pistons). The cost so far has been around $4500. That doesn't include the M62 supercharger ($1200), SDS fuel/ignition system ($1200), custom intake/injectors (+$600) , full stainless header/exhaust ($1400), ad nauseam. I'm not done yet so the final numbers aren't in. Looking back, I would seriously consider a LS1. The ONLY two reasons I chose this path was the challenge and I think the sound of a L6 suits a Z better than a V8.

 

85mm? what is the stock bore?

 

I just bought 90.3mm forged pistons.

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If your looking for a transmission that can handle the power u car find a 240z racing 5 speed witch is a roadster trans with different gears and a conversion to bolt to the l motors. or u can due a z32 trans from a turbo 300zx mckinney motorsports has a convertion for that but its pricey. I have a roadster trans in my 260z with a l28et it will take a alot of abuse.

 

This company Mazworx is a lot cheaper...price not quality

 

http://www.mazworx.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=106

 

high $400's including machine work on the bellhousing.

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No it cannot. I have sonic tested numerous blocks (over ten) and none of them could run that much bore. I even offset my boring to the core shift of the block. At 89mm bore It is at almost minimum thickness.

I think 91mm has been done before but if I remember correctly they gutted it and sleeved it because of the cylinder walls being too thin. I'm curious if the diesel block would be a better choice for such a large overbore? Have you sonic tested any of them? The height issues can be resolved easily enough when you consider the amount of work that's already going into this.

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Oh, hey, crap, I forgot, this might come in handy... http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

 

Don't take it for holy writ, no engine internal components should ever be "assumed" to measure ANYTHING. In other words, this is a great calculator for off-the-cuff idea working; make sure all measurements and clearances are as advertised when actually gathering parts!!

 

Cool link...My pistons 90mm, Diesel crank, 240 rods = ~3.2L 9:1 cr

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85mm? what is the stock bore?

 

I just bought 90.3mm forged pistons.

 

He was referring to the LD28 block, which had a stock bore smaller than the other L6s (except maybe L24 and L20A? FAR smaller than an L28 in any case. See 1fastZ's comment above regarding sonic testing of an LD28 block. It is a totally different beast from any other L series block from what I understand.)

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  • 2 weeks later...

My thoughts are.......the only reason V8 swaps were ever done in the '70s is because there was nothing else to do, heck, the V06 crank wasnt even around yet and turbos were unreliable at best, (remember cartech/rajay blow-through weber w/ pressurized airbox)? Now with the twin cam 24 valve RB dett NISSAN motor I just dont get it....why would anyone waste their time and $ on anything but that swap, it is a NISSAN motor, anyone who really wants BIG power that is. I just don't get it, the L series motor was great back in the 70's...but this is 2009. I wouldnt waste any money on the L6, other than a cheap stroker setup, V06 crank, ka24 pistons, 240 rods etc, go Nissan RB, its essentially a modern L6 with an OS Giken dohc head and that head was $12K ALONE!!! Go LS if you dont care about having a nissan mill in the engine bay. For what its worth, I have owned my Z since 1983 and I still have it and now three more (not that that means crap to anyone but me)

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Doing any engine performance build is going to cost money. I don't think the RB engine is any cheaper, thats if you want all the good parts like adjustable cam sprockets, chain adjusters, to name two upgrades that will end up costing about $600-650 just to be able to degree the cam correctly and tension the chain correctly.

I had my bottom end built to my specs for about 6K That was new rods, pistons, crank, bearings, everything assembled and ready to go.

The head was about 800.00 at the time. I did do a fully punched out Gerolomy head that was 2500.00 So total for the engine it was about 10K complete rebuild with performance parts.

The turbo, well 1300 for the 35R, 1100 for the exhaust manifold, 1K for the exhaust. a few hundered for the intercooler pipes, 450 for the intercooler.

So what do you get for your time and effort, well I have gotten 650Hp myself. I have heard it said by a VERY good authority that these little L28 turbo engine have put out 1100Hp @ 900 foot pounds of torque.

So how much did you want to run the engine at?

I would also have an RB engine, IF at the time I could have picked up the hacked fromt clip before I had already invested a large dollar amount in the stock engine/equipment, for the 6K the guy was asking, then I would have a 4 wheel drive 280zxt now, but it was to late to make changes to my setup at the time.

The L28 will give you all the power you want, so will the RB engine, but you will be making significant mods to install the RB correctly not just installed and it runs.

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This is interesting, I've thrown around this idea in another topic but didnt get nearly as much response...

 

To the OP, check out kameari products...

 

www.zccjdm.com

 

kameari makes a 3.2L stroker crankshaft.....

 

kameari also makes a 89.5mm forged piston...

 

 

 

I really want to see a 3.2L L28et... the only 3.2L l28 I have heard of is NA...

 

As far as the twin turbo setup goes... I disagree with you there, would be better to get a MASSIVE single turbo and upgrade the valvetrain to hold 10k RPM's to make good use of the boost it could push.

 

Another Idea I will throw out on your build, you might also want to look into a SuperTurbo setup. A superturbo setup is where you have both a supercharger and a turbo. The supercharger would be so you could get boost right off the line till the massive turbo kicks in...

 

A Superturbo 3.2L L series that can rev to 10,000 RPM's.... :)

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