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About turbogrill

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    Austin, TX

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  1. Flat top now or later

    Don't know much about carbs but I think a stock cam and stock compression will never perform wonder ( I guess unless you put in nitro or turbo it). I am confused. So there are 2 engines: Stock Engine 1. Run earlier this year and should be good. Stock Engine 2. Needs a rebuild Both cars are out of the engine? Car has no engine? If you want the drive the car now then put in the good engine and rebuild the bad engine in the background. Is there any benefits of rebuilding good engine over bad engine?
  2. Hi, I got the head off from the engine and need to turn the cam into TDC. I am having trouble twisting it, I need to use a lot of force. I guess it's just the force needed to overcome the springs. Is there a trick?
  3. Oil starvation ever an issue on L28 during racing?

    We run 180 thread tire (Venus rs4), sticky street tires. So I think that might save us, I have logged the oil pressure and it was never low. However I didn't log it at COTA they have some sweepers.
  4. Oil starvation ever an issue on L28 during racing?

    What kind of tires are you running?
  5. Hi, Is oil starvation an issue with track prepped L28? On other non L-engines it's common when running slicks and good suspension. It seems like some people make special oil pans but a lot of people race just fine without it. Is it only a problem at long long sweepers when running slicks? I have never seen an issue on our race car but we have 180 threadwear tires
  6. Interesting stuff! What would be the benefits of doing this swap?
  7. L24: More Aggressive Cam Sugguestions

    Check the following sites, Colt cams, Isky, Rebello,Schneider. I think all of them has cams that work well with stock springs. Maybe call Rebello since it looks like their site hasn;t been updated in a while...
  8. FPR and Fuel Pressure Help

    Also, at some point you will need to take a decision if you want to get steel braided or rubber hoses. You will see a lot of builds have steel braided, it looks cool and it's probably safer as well BUT it's harder to do right. I spent a fortune on high quality steel braided and high end fittings, but I have 2 fuel leaks because I suck at fabbing the hose ends. Fresh rubber might have been better for me...
  9. FPR and Fuel Pressure Help

    Where did you find that? 1. So no, since 43.5psi minus boost_psi will be your max fuel pressure. If you want to run 10psi boost your fuel pressure will have to be set at 32psi. Probably not enough with your performance goal. (maybe ~250hp)
  10. FPR and Fuel Pressure Help

    1. Doubt it. Have no clue, maybe at 40ish psi. 2. Most injectors are rated at 43.5 psi. So if you use that it makes it easy for you, if you use 80psi your 440cc/min injectors flows ~600cc/min. 440cc (43.5psi) into this (http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php) calculator seems to give a max HP of about 330hp crank (bsfc 0.65 ). 600cc (80psi) into this (http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php) calculator seems to give a max HP of about 420hp crank. Why not run as high as possible? I guess it's just put's extra load on pump, fittings and FPR. Not sure how much pressure stock system can take (hoses, filter etc). The fuel pressure is set by wit a knob on the FPR 3. Aeromotive are popular
  11. Block heater core - add pressure sensor?

    Thanks I think I got it now! Whatever I do I will make sure the pump always have somewhere to pump water. Reason I want to remove most stuff is to remove failure points. No thermostat means no thermostat that can fail, no heater hoses means no heater hose that can fail etc. I haven't raced the 200hp engine yet so I don't know if there is any cooling issues. With our 140hp engine we had ZERO cooling issues in Texas heat enduro racing, we where almost running a little cold we thought. I am mostly worried about pinging, but seems like there are plenty running my setup without issues. (n47 flattop, M445 cam, megasquirt, nice head) I like your suggestion for pressure sensor location, will check it out. I might keep the internal bypass, that way I don't have to mess around with the block and screw something up.
  12. Hi, I don't have a heater in my race car but I do want to monitor the coolant pressure so that a the driver can stop if there is loss of coolant. I have a N47/F54 combo. 1. Would the heater outlet in the head be a good place to put a pressure sensor (location A) ? Or would it be better to put it in the pump housing (location B)? 2. Plugging the heater core have no negative impact on the system? Infact it might have a slight positive impact since there is no reflow back to the pump? 3. If I can remove the thermostat would it be beneficial to remove the bypass altogether? Car is a ~200hp NA build if it's matter for Endurance racing.
  13. What is this head cooling mod?
  14. That is a very good point, while I am sure the EFI was spectacular in the 70s it's very ancient. So intercooler will reduce the temps and therefor reduce the possibility of knocking. I terms of engine management what is important from a knocking perspective, is it make sure that AFR is what it's supposed to be and timing is being where it so supposed to be?