turbogrill

Why the low boost?

I did microsquirt, it's like $300. Also doing fuel only is also much easier and it's a huge improvement. Controlling ignition requires somekind of coils and trigger, none that you have stock..

Nice! Running a very similar setup. Bonk cam with stock N42 intake and MS. What did you set your timing to? Why so rich?

The Mazda/Ford 2.5 is becoming a popular swap into 2006-2016 Miatas, they are light and dirt cheap and most turbo builds are about 300whp - 400whp on junkyard engines. Not sure where the limit is. The engine bolts up to a NC Miata transmission so no RWD conversion issues. You can also use the miata oilpan if needed. There are aftermarket turbo manifolds both RWD and FWD applications. The Mazdaspeed engines also uses this engine and same manifold. But has a crappy k04 turbo. But it does have stronger internals. Cheapest engines seems to be from Ford Escape. Maybe a mazdaspeed3 bolts up to the transmission, in that case that might be easiest for your power levels since they are forged. https://dynotronicstuning.3dcartstores.com/DYNOTRONICS1-GOAL-MK2-TURBO-SYSTEM_p_1322.html

Isn't it "easy" to reach 350whp? But once you are getting into 600whp it's very complicated and expensive. Just reading about what JeffP is doing is crazy, custom head gasket and all kinds of things. if less then 350whp then L28ET. If more than 450whp then swap something in (like an LS). Focus everything on intercooler, engine mangement, good turbo and piping. I don't know enough to comment about forged vs non-forged pistons, but I know Datsun Spirit sells any sized pistons you want. (I think it's rebranded wiseco pistons)

I would strongly recommend OEM. After market mounts might have fitment issues, even if you file down the thing sticking out. I spend maybe 4 hours trying to get my engine/tranny in with after market mounts, took 30 mins with oem mounts. Just my experience.

Did you just buy it? Car looks nice, might be worth something.

Can you put the don potter cam into your L26? (if the l28 is unusable).

Depends on the year. For 79-81 I did this:

Your right TDC shouldn't matter. But it's hard to measure these thing, I am no expert and I have to remeasure several times. It's hard to get accurate numbers with the engine out and a proper timing wheel, 1 angle is really nothing but the lift can differ for just 1 angle. Also your .317 lift should be ~0.470 at the valve. If it's DSI motor I am sure it's good!

Regarding measuring the cam, did you measure directly on the cam or on the valve? 0.050" on the cam equals ~0.075 on the valve. This is also not true because your lash will affect the real lift as well. How do you find exact TDC with engine in car? If it's a cam with fast lobes a 5 degree difference will make a huge differnce. My current cam has about 0.006" lift per degree change during it's opening phase.

I guess the reason they suck stock is that it was hard in the 70s to make an engine that could work crusing at 1500 rpm and also perform well at WOT 7000 rpm. The L28 is very simple, 2 valves, single cam, single plenum intake, very basic computer (or carbs!), simple ignition etc. Head design is an issue with L28 and high HP. If you compare a stock L28 head to a modern say honda K head they flow very different. Lots and lots of work needs to go into the head to make it it flow enough for >100hp. The intake also sucks so you would have to do something about that as well. Not to mention computer. Rod/Stroke might be a problem but there are other issues to address first.

I would recommend to post logs and maybe Chickenman could comment on those. Sounds like your timing is wrong as well. Could you run the stock timing? It's always good to get fuel only working first.

Ebay?

I asked ATI " it’s high HP up around 1000HP I would recommend the 7” version P/N 917800."