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Everything posted by JMortensen

  1. Rally Suspension

    No, they don't. Please take the information provided in the thread and disregard the rest. If you look you'll see that Alan can be helpful, as in the linked thread about the Bilsteins, when he wants to.
  2. Rally Suspension

    Here's Coffey's post on the 46mm Bilsteins. I believe these are the shocks that he put on the the rally car in question: They were rather expensive as I recall.
  3. ZF/Ford 6HP80 behind a LS?

    No tech, but how about a 10R80?
  4. Rally Suspension

    One nice thing about John was that he'd say those things straight to your face, and since we conversed so often I'm sure I have seen most of them. You've still derailed the conversation from being about how to take a Z off road into how little Carl Beck knows and how your superior pedantry can solve the problem of how to set up a V8 Z for light duty off roading.
  5. Rally Suspension

    I can see how those pedantic details are germane to a discussion about a V8 rally/safari inspired build like the one the OP is building. Oh wait, no I can't. OP, you want to see something RIDICULOUS? Take a look at the bolt in roll bar that they used in those old works cars. I was ROFL when I saw one for the first time...
  6. Rally Suspension

    Carl Beck owns a rally Z, his email is at the bottom of the page I linked to previously. He's also on Facebook and is always willing to help. John Coffey built this one a few years ago. Unfortunately he died in a motorcycle wreck. Real loss for the Z community. I think he had some posts here about it, but my impression was that the biggest change was some custom long travel Bilstein struts. Had a pretty beefy skid plate and push bar, and the roof rack. I haven't talked to the owners of the car, but they don't seem like the secretive type and would probably answer questions you might have. https://www.facebook.com/p2p240z/
  7. Rally Suspension

  8. Dan McGrath and I simultaneously came up with this idea for a control arm. This design reduces side loading vs any H arm. Covered in the thread below. I remain convinced that it is the best design out there (that I've seen anyway) and I was happy to help Apex with the design. As to the camber issue, you should be adjusting that with plates on top IMO. We have all seen the photos of the guys with the rod ends turned way out to add camber, but it's really not a good idea. Been a while since I did the math, but from memory I believe the engineering rule of thumb is 2x the diameter should be in the arm, which on a 5/8" rod end means you can move it out something like 5/16" before you hit that limit.
  9. Not to speak for the OP, but I had something like this on my truck and there were no jam nuts and it never moved. You can get them though. Several options here: http://eastcoastspeed.com/c-701479-suspension-front-weight-jacks-jack-bolts.html
  10. Wow! Cool idea if you wanted to lift the rear end. Would need holes in the hood up front to run it. Very NASCAR.
  11. 240z toe in problem

    Aftermarket arms are the easy button. If you want you can buy camber bushings for the rear as they adjust toe too and are cheaper than arms. I really like the Apex Engineering arms. They were modeled on mine, so I might be a bit biased... If you can fabricate you could make a rear toe adjuster like a handful of us did here:
  12. Single Modern Motorsports 27 Spline Stub Axle

    That's 27 spline, unless they make a 29 spline I'm unaware of. Would fit 280Z.
  13. Stub Axles 27 and 39 spline also Z31 conversion

    Are those the billet chromoly ones, Joe? I'm betting Richard wants to know more about them.
  14. I'm looking at different options to install dual masters. I know I've discussed all of these here at one point or another, now I'm trying to make a decision. 1. Buy a complete Wilwood or Tilton pedal assembly. I'm thinking I'd do the masters in the engine compartment. I don't think this would be terribly difficult to install as it just has to be bolted to the firewall and the appropriate holes drilled, but I've never done it before. One major question I have is what happens to the steering column in this case???? Something like this is what I have in mind: http://www.pitstopusa.com/detail.aspx?ID=1155 http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=4&m=b 2. Buy an already modified Datsun pedal box from DP racing. This option is $500 something with masters. It puts the masters inside the car, so if they leak they drip on your shoes and the reservoirs must be remotely mounted. 3. Buy John Coffey's new super wazoo dual master setup from http://www.betamotorsports.com. Bolts on, no fabrication, don't even have to remove the pedal box (mine's already out though) and it is $454.95 with no masters and I wouldn't have to screw with the clutch at all. I think this is the nicest option for sure, but I don't have a lot of money. 4. Buy a balance bar assembly and attempt to cut up my pedal box and modify it to work. I understand that this isn't all that hard to do if you know what you're doing. I don't know what I'm doing though so this would be an adventure to say the least. Iskone's car has this done to it, and I know tube80z has done it as well, pics of Iskone's car in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111465 Anyone done #1 or #4 before? Easy, hard? At this point I'm getting a bit tired of big projects and although I've turned the corner and my car is starting to go back together instead of coming further and further apart, the sooner it gets completed the better. That means the cheaper and easier this is the better. I guess I'm trying to find that sweet spot between cheap and easy.
  15. Call Tilton or Wilwood and they will help you decide
  16. That's a tricky question, because pedal feel and overall performance have lots of different variables. Rotor size, caliper size, pad size, pedal leverage ratio, etc all affect how much pedal effort you need and how well it will perform. With the pedal ratio modded to close to 5:1 with 12.2" rotors, Superlight 1.75 4 pistons and Dynalite 1 3/8 4 pistons and Hawk Black pads and after messing with the balance bar a bit I think my brakes feel pretty good. In fact, if I stuck someone else in the car and didn't tell them, I doubt they would know that it was a manual setup. That said others running 6:1 ratios seem to like bigger masters, more like 1".
  17. Found 3 more on my FB page:
  18. I don't even remember having a photobucket account. Tried to log in, all I had were the wind tunnel test pics in there. I know I had more pics at one time, this is all I could find.
  19. SOLD: 71 240Z LS1 T56

    Sorry to see you go.
  20. Wow. Forgot about those pics. Amazing that something so utilitarian and basic was on a car that won so many national championships. I agree that a cradle is the way to go. I think blueovalz's rear setup integrating the diff mount was a nice idea, but that sort of thing (ideally tubing and not a big AL plate) could be integrated with something like this, so that the cradle which mounts the diff and the LCA mounts is a separate bolt in assembly and attaches to the stock mounts for mustache bar and diff xmember/strap mounting points. TSS Fabrication makes similar products for Subaru rally cars. I think he puts too many bends in his products where he could have straight tubing, but here's an example and a link to some more inspiration. https://www.facebook.com/pg/TSSFAB.US/
  21. YarnonRearTripStrip.jpg

  22. WhaleTailMountedandReady.jpg