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JMortensen

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Everything posted by JMortensen

  1. I'm looking at different options to install dual masters. I know I've discussed all of these here at one point or another, now I'm trying to make a decision. 1. Buy a complete Wilwood or Tilton pedal assembly. I'm thinking I'd do the masters in the engine compartment. I don't think this would be terribly difficult to install as it just has to be bolted to the firewall and the appropriate holes drilled, but I've never done it before. One major question I have is what happens to the steering column in this case???? Something like this is what I have in mind: http://www.pitstopusa.com/detail.aspx?ID=1155 http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=4&m=b 2. Buy an already modified Datsun pedal box from DP racing. This option is $500 something with masters. It puts the masters inside the car, so if they leak they drip on your shoes and the reservoirs must be remotely mounted. 3. Buy John Coffey's new super wazoo dual master setup from http://www.betamotorsports.com. Bolts on, no fabrication, don't even have to remove the pedal box (mine's already out though) and it is $454.95 with no masters and I wouldn't have to screw with the clutch at all. I think this is the nicest option for sure, but I don't have a lot of money. 4. Buy a balance bar assembly and attempt to cut up my pedal box and modify it to work. I understand that this isn't all that hard to do if you know what you're doing. I don't know what I'm doing though so this would be an adventure to say the least. Iskone's car has this done to it, and I know tube80z has done it as well, pics of Iskone's car in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111465 Anyone done #1 or #4 before? Easy, hard? At this point I'm getting a bit tired of big projects and although I've turned the corner and my car is starting to go back together instead of coming further and further apart, the sooner it gets completed the better. That means the cheaper and easier this is the better. I guess I'm trying to find that sweet spot between cheap and easy.
  2. Call Tilton or Wilwood and they will help you decide
  3. That's a tricky question, because pedal feel and overall performance have lots of different variables. Rotor size, caliper size, pad size, pedal leverage ratio, etc all affect how much pedal effort you need and how well it will perform. With the pedal ratio modded to close to 5:1 with 12.2" rotors, Superlight 1.75 4 pistons and Dynalite 1 3/8 4 pistons and Hawk Black pads and after messing with the balance bar a bit I think my brakes feel pretty good. In fact, if I stuck someone else in the car and didn't tell them, I doubt they would know that it was a manual setup. That said others running 6:1 ratios seem to like bigger masters, more like 1".
  4. Found 3 more on my FB page:
  5. I don't even remember having a photobucket account. Tried to log in, all I had were the wind tunnel test pics in there. I know I had more pics at one time, this is all I could find.
  6. 71 240Z LS1 T56

    Sorry to see you go.
  7. Wow. Forgot about those pics. Amazing that something so utilitarian and basic was on a car that won so many national championships. I agree that a cradle is the way to go. I think blueovalz's rear setup integrating the diff mount was a nice idea, but that sort of thing (ideally tubing and not a big AL plate) could be integrated with something like this, so that the cradle which mounts the diff and the LCA mounts is a separate bolt in assembly and attaches to the stock mounts for mustache bar and diff xmember/strap mounting points. TSS Fabrication makes similar products for Subaru rally cars. I think he puts too many bends in his products where he could have straight tubing, but here's an example and a link to some more inspiration. https://www.facebook.com/pg/TSSFAB.US/
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