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Found 15 results

  1. My new 1975 Datsun 280z project!

    So I am new to the forum and I figured I would post to show the process of restoring my new Datsun and hopefully get some help and good tips from other members as I go! I recently bought this and it is my first Datsun! The car was sitting since 1991 before I bought it and right before it was parked it was inspected and serviced and has paperwork to prove it that i found in the car, but the previous owner also left it sitting outside with the spark plugs out and the hood popped open . I have siphoned out any fluid in the holes and it seems to just be some oil with a little bit of rust in it. So over the next few days/weeks I'll be soaking it to try and make it move free. Fingers crossed that the rings will hopefully be OK!
  2. Hey guys been a member on here for a while but haven't been very active. Anyway for a little background, I live in Barbados in the Caribbean which is a pretty small island. Despite the obvious benefits of living on a tropical island like all year good weather and lovely beaches, our duties on vehicles here are crazy (over 200+%) and also there are serious restrictions on vehicle importation for instance nothing older than 4 years which automatically rules out any s30 Zs. However I have always wanted one of these cars so I was left with the only legal option of importing a shell or basic chassis and building a car from scratch. I spent some time scouring the net for just that and finally found a 280z in pretty good condition and the owner was willing to strip it to the point I wanted. He had done a basic restoration a few years back to the point of primer but it was too rough a job for my purpose so I decided a full strip down from the ground up was in order and at the same time I would modify to suit. One of the issues I faced was that there were no other driving Zs on the road and just a couple S30 shells lying around and since the body came missing most parts I would have to educate myself thoroughly on the workings of the car. Also because of the unreliable work ethic of many persons available I decided that for the fun and general experience of it I would undertake the restoration and modification almost exclusively along with a good friend. This naturally required somewhere to work and the tools to get the job done, so my first order, even before I had the car was to start getting the tools I didn't already have. It's been an on and off 3 year project so far and still not done. The car in it's original state when I first got it. Looked decent from far but far from great... Of course after stripping some rust issues were found but all in all was pretty good. After the rust areas were dealt with the next plan was to convert the car from LHD to RHD since that is the side of the road we drive on here. Finding donor parts prooved to be a bit of an issue so we eventually decided that the only real way was to fabricate everything from scratch. So we made up a couple templates and pulled out our spot weld remover bit and got to work. The next step was getting everything stripped down to metal and epoxy coated. Best way for this would be a rotisserie so that was our next project, building one. Then the fun could begin... After hearing alot of horror stories about 'professional' sandblasting services I decided to blast the car myself with a small blaster from eastwood and some glass. It was NOT fun. But the results were rewarding.
  3. After nearly 5 years of serving the Datsun community, Vintage Chrome will be terminating the service by the end of this year. There comes a time in most every entrepreneurial venture when you reach a point in which you have a tough decision to make......"get big or get out". Unfortunately, achieving significant growth at this stage of the venture would simply require a commitment of resources that I am not prepared to make at this stage of my life. So, I have decided that "getting out" is the best course of action for me and my family. I know that there are members of the club that would still like to have some plastic parts chrome plated, so I am announcing a final production run and club member discount. The Promotion will work as follows: 1. Orders will be accepted from today's date, October 15, 2016, through October 31, 2016. 2. Pricing for many of the more common Z and other Datsun parts are listed below, but we also have the capability to chrome plate any rigid plastic piece, even if it was not originally plated by Datsun . If you need this customized service, please email [email protected] for a specific quote. 3. The customer must ensure that parts to be chromed are disassembled to the point where only the pieces to be chromed are provided to us. No other preparation is required by the customer. All stripping and prep work will be completed by us. 4. Payment Policy: Payment via PayPal is due at time of order. Domestic (US) shipping and handling charges will be $9.95 per package. 5. INTERNATIONAL CUSTOMERS: Prices are the same as quoted here except non-US customers will be responsible for freight costs and applicable customs charges, if any. 6.Shipping Info: Your parts should be be shipped to the following address: M. Robbins - Vintage Chrome 7250 S. Durango Dr., Suite 130-164 Las Vegas, NV 89113 9. Please be sure to include with your packaged parts: Your name Return shipping address Email address Phone number Special instructions (even if previously communicated through PM or email). Examine your cores carefully before sending them to Vintage Chrome. Peeling or discolored chrome is OK, but parts must not be warped, have cracks, gouges or missing pieces in the substrate. We do not repair damaged plastic parts or re-paint parts after plating. Un-platable cores will be returned (if requested) or disposed of. Pricing for many common Z and other Datsun parts are listed below: Item Description 260/280z Tail Light Bezels (pair) $229.95 240/260/280Z Center Vents (each) $39.95 240/260/280z round a/c vents: (pair) $79.95 240/260/280Z Door Escutcheons (pair) $59.95 240Z Series I Hatch Grilles (pair) $59.95 260/280z hood vents (pair) $199.95 Plastic Wheel Center Caps (set of 4) $199.95 240/260/280Z Heater Control Panel (each) $129.95 240/260/280Z Door Pull Strap Finishers (pair) $49.95 240/260/280z emblems Email your needs for custom quote Please contact [email protected] for quotes on other parts or anything custom. Pictures of some past jobs will follow.
  4. Getting into the Z game

    Hello, This is my second post, my first was extremely vague and lazy on my part. I have always had a deep interest in cars and all things that move really. My experience with mechanics is limited to 2 semesters of high school auto class and minor experience with outboard boat engines. I also have rebuilt a 4 cylinder boat engine with the help of a friend who is a mechanic. I have basic tools,(screwdrivers, ratchet set, wire strippers etc.) and a home garage to work in with limited space and no large equipment such as welders or a lift, just the basic tools. I have only driven a manual car a handful of times but have some experience driving other manual vehicles. I really am set on getting a 240z. From my research I have found that it is a relatively easy car to work on, has excellent technology for its age and the L-series motors are extremely reliable and great sounding. The unique look and nostalgia of the car is really what sold me on making a z my first project. My project z would be garage kept and I would most likely sell my current car to buy a cheaper daily driver and use the leftover $ for the z. I have a decent budget for a college kid and plan on this project to take years, so my budget will eventually increase, but for now I am looking at approximately 25k. This must also cover the cost of buying the car. What Im looking to do is get a 240z (70'-74') in running condition with minimal rust. What I've heard is that rust can be the most unpleasant and expensive problem to deal with, and considering i have no means to do body work myself, i would like to avoid having to pay for major body repairs. I would like to begin with projects that mainly increase the reliability and drivability of the car. I would also like to use this car as a learning experience for whatever mods I can do myself. Wiring, electrical, filters, bushings, tires, coil etc. would all be things i would like to upgrade or improve and repair. Maybe a few years down the road if the frame and body of the car are sufficiently stiffened and the motor dies i will look to do an engine swap. But for now just handling and reliability mods,followed by suspension and, eventually I would like to do upgraded headers and exhaust for the l24 just to let it breath a little better, but not looking for a rocket ship. What I really want out of this project is a unique classic, not something that i will see 10 others just like it on a Sunday drive. A car that can be mostly for learning to build, fix and upgrade as well as help me become a better driver. Suggestions as to how much I should look to spend would really help. How much can I expect to pay for a running 240z with minimal rust. I would like to have some of the 25k leftover to do some of my own work with, because having a hand in the building of this car is very important to me. Also suggestions for what projects to start on or if i Should have the car looked over by a professional before starting any projects. I apologize for the long post and hope this better meets forum standards. Im am young an very passionate about getting into the z game. Thanks.
  5. Hi all, Name is Dave, I'm Scottish but currently live in New Zealand... found this forum while searching for Z cars seemed to have a lot of projects and technical information so I thought I would throw in my 2 cents as well. I'm guessing most people on this site are from America? Im new to the whole S30 game but have admired the cars for a long time so when one came up for sale near me I decided to have a look and made a bid, sadly it went for more than I was willing to pay for it but through some miracle it came back up for sale a few weeks later (sale fell through) so once again I bid and this time won the auction. Managed to get it for almost $2000 less than the first auction. Score! I pick it up on Saturday morning then the fun can begin. This is the lucky lady herself... Needs a bit of TLC... and when I say a bit I mean a lot. Anyway something to keep me busy and spend all my money on eh? So I will hopefully keep updating this as often as I can or whenever I accomplish something or need help!
  6. Hello from Los Angeles, Finally finished my 280z rescue. Took 3 years of work chipping away little by little anytime I got some extra cash in. Won't bore you with all the details of everything I had to replace, but couldn't afford a traditional paint job after all the other work, so I got a fine artist to paint the car with heavy-duty street art markers. It had the typical rust issues, but also exposed metal, bondo, primer and the original blue paint job showing through. It looks crazy!!! Here is the Before/After pic and if you want to see the time-lapse video and more before/after pics they are stored on the artist's website: http://andreabogdan.com/datsun-280z-freestyle-art-car/ Enjoy!!!
  7. Many of you that have 240Z’s know the chrome tail light bars are one of the first parts to go, due to exhaust gases, weather and time. I’ve owned more than ten 240’s through the years and every one of them had rough looking taillight bars, with many actually starting to disintegrate. A couple of years ago I contracted to have a quantity of them re-produced and have since been offering them for sale. I posted here a year or more ago, but thought I’d provide an update with current pricing and a few pictures. There’s only one other vendor re-producing this part. Their price is higher and the accuracy is inferior to the parts I’ve produced from a perfect pair of OEM originals. Additionally, each pair of my taillight bars comes with instructions and all the necessary fasteners. I have many customers on this site and hope they’ll chime in and vouch for the quality and service received. If you’re interested, the price for club members, including shipping, is $129.95. E-mail me and I‘ll invoice you via PayPal and get a set in the mail to you today. Satisfaction guaranteed! Randy
  8. Hello all, I've been lurking on the site for awhile, and finally decided to take the plunge and pick up an S30 Z-car from a fellow forum member over at OntarioZCar, along with my brother (Adrian Z). (If you're in ON, and not on that forum, I highly recommend it - great bunch of guys). This is going to be a dedicated build thread, I will try to make it picture-heavy, as those are always the best ones. She's a 1974 260Z with 46k miles on the ODO. I thought it was mostly original, but on closer inspection in the shop it's had some work done on it (not good either, going to be a bit of a pain to fix). The front frame appears to have some damage and they fixed it poorly. The floorpans are shot, there's typical rust everywhere you'd expect from a 40 y/o car in Canada, but nothing that's not fixable with a bit of work. The bigger issue is that it was sitting neglected in a barn for the past 15 years, and the engine seems to be seized. Clutch is unresponsive as well, breaks nonexistent (work on moving first, then worry about stopping). The previous-previous owner jimmy-rigged the wiring, so that needs to be redone, and he took the stock carbs off in favour of a single-weber setup - not sure why. So far I've just been inspecting and figuring how deep of a hole I've dug for myself. I washed the car, drained the goopy old oil, and slapped a new oil filter on. Filled it with 10W-30, not sure if that's best, but some forum folks seem to think it works, so that's good enough for me. I'm pretty sure the rings are rusted to the bores, so I pulled the plugs and filled each cylinder up with WD40, leaving it overnight to try penetrate the rust, see if it feels like turning tomorrow... Taking her home Weird single-weber setup Interior - Driver's seat shot, the rest is ok Badly repaired front frame under the engine (not going to pass safety here...) Rotted floor pan First of many oil changes Eric
  9. Datsun Spirit

    For some of you Datsun Spirit may be a familiar name, for others this may be the first time your learning of this shop. Eiji however, Datsun Spirit's founder is a legend in the Z Car community with his orange, slide carb, 240ZG. Datsun Spirit offers various parts for L Series motors, from our custom piston and rods to full on part restorations. Utilizing Eiji's knowledge and passion of L Series motors Datsun Spirit has created top quality products that speak for themselves in the Z car community. We are committed to bringing additional products to the Z market and over the next few months we will be updating our products catalog to showcase just that. Please visit us at www.datsunspirit.com over the coming weeks to see what we've been up to.
  10. Finally almost done with my restoration of a 1976 280Z 2+2 for my daughter! Interior installation, paint touchups, and new emblems left to complete this 2 year project. A little background first! I love Z's and was looking for a new restoration project two years ago. My daughter had already decided when she was 10 years old she wanted a Mustang for her first car and being the loving father I am, I told her I would buy her one for her 16th birthday if she maintained her grades despite my personal distaste for the cars. One weekend three years ago, we were headed to the movie theater and I saw a 1978 280Z coupe at a used car lot on the way and had to stop and check it out. Halfway thru the test drive my daughter suddenly saw the light and announced she had changed her mind and wanted me to build her a 280Z because it was so much cooler than a Mustang and no one at her school would have a clue as to what kind of car it was! She is not follower and constantly bucks the status quo every chance she gets. It had been quite a number of years since I had worked on a Z and was looking for one for me to restore for myself but who can deny the next generation the beauty and power that is the Z! So my quest began the following weekend for a 2+2 to restomod for her. After about 3 months of searching I found a CL ad locally (about a 2 hour drive actually) with 1977 280Z 2+2, Auto Trans, perfect dashboard, SU Carbs!!, and a dark metallic blue, yay no color change needed, saves me a little on paint and sanding! PO claimed it had been running until recently when he developed fuel line problems and parked it not having the money to fix it. I picked it up for what I thought was a steal at $700 considering he started at $1500, rented a car dolly and headed home towing my conquest. As I began work to get the motor running I quickly determined the car had not been running for more than 7-8 years because the fuel had spoiled, fuel lines were filled with molasses, gaskets were separated and every time I cranked the motor, tar spewed from around heads. Not good at all! Thankfully, Slow78Z forrm this forum had just listed his 78 L28 with Auto for sale so he could do a V-8 swap. I drove up to Topeka, KS(3 hours) in January 2011 in record snowfall condition to claim my prize. Slow78Z had the motor and trans already on a pallet and all the extra parts boxed up and ready to go upon my arrival. Great guy and very helpful! I returned triumphantly to my garage and unloaded my prize and then spent the next 3 months in the hospital with kidney problems. Spring arrived and my health had returned so it was time to get going on the car. So off to media blasting first because during my health layoff, paint had started to peel all over the car especially the door jams, revealing the dull red original poorly sanded paint underneath the dark blue crappy paintjob as well as bubbles under the paint I had missed on first inspection. So here we start with the first set pics and you can tell from these that my luck had not changed yet: Devastating amount of bondo and rust throughout almost every major body part makes this a total waste of time for me. The bondo on the sides of quarter panels is not filling hail dents, these are 1/4" layers of bondo covering holes from rust thru of the body. Light steel work and patch panels I can handle with no problems but full inner and outer skin replacments, rocker replacements, on top of an engine/tranny swap was too much for to take on at that point. Best option, right off $1500 invested at this point and find a better car to start all over with. Craigslist to the rescue and the plethera of Z Cars over in OKC, OK it seems fate is smiling again! $3K for a low mileage 1976 2+2 280Z with auto trans and a fair interior. Running and driving nicely but with a lot of brake noise when stopping. Better than swapping a motor out! No hood vents on a 280Z? That was new to me! Weak Silver paint job over original silver metallic with an interesting painted pin stripe pattern... Nice scratch down the driver's side fender, easily workable metal issue... The worst rust found on driver's rear quarter at the bottom, will require some new steel welded in for sure... Surface rust under paint on passnger's rear quarter, smaill pin holes would be found and brass soldered after treament... Passenger's fender had small dent at edge of body line, a little hammer and dolly... FI L28 clean as a whistle, will replace all the gaskets, seals, hoses and do a full tune up to ensure motor is clean as it looks... These have to be the ugliest the tail lights anyone had ever put on a 70's car! That's OK, i have a plan to surprise my daughter with an omage! And right to the plan I go... First I remove the old tail lights and surrounds... Then I use a partial sheet of 1/2" foam insulation to make a template... Template cut and new tail light buckets fitted for mock up... Yes, that's right 65-66 Mustang tail lights mocked up on template! I will have to grind down the top edge of the repro light trim because the top edges are thicker than the bottom due to the sloped tail light panel on the Mustang. Now off to the machinist with the template and have the new panel cut from 18 gauge steel. Once it is welded in and skim coated it will look factory installed, hopefully! Next step while the machine shop works their magic I remove the park benches and alos remove only the front bumper shocks, these will be re-purposed later, but I cut off the rear bumper shocks first leaving the open tubes of the shocks, just wait, you'll see why! Don't forget if you cut off the bumber shocks at the tubes, remember to release the pressure and drain the fluid out before cutting off the shock tubes! Here's the custom bumper supports my body man and I came up with. Using 1" square tubing we removed the shocks from front bumber mount plates and welded the tubing perpendicular out and then welded another piece of tube across to provide front bumper crash protection of up to 10MPH. We welded the tubing directly to the rear shock tubes for rear skirt support and protection of the gas tank up to 10MPH crashes. While the body shop completes the front and rear skirt/bumper supports I pull the seats and make a run to my local Hot Rod Holstery shop. My daughter had changed her mind on color from dark metallic blue to a bright red, "as bright a red as you can find" were here exact words! I find a remnant of red and black Houndstooth heavy duty cotton fabic on Ebay and know exactly what to do with it! It's winter time now and auto upholstery shops are hungry for business so I negotiate a sweet price of $700 to repair the vinyl and insert the Houndstooth into both front and back seats. Sorry a little washed out color due to the bright sunlight... Oh yeah, before we added the bumper supports, I took the vented hood off my 76 Coupe and swapped it out on her car so we could trick out the hood with a little custome mod... Before I show you that mod, I mock up all the fiberlass parts. I bought the MSA Type 3 front and rear skirts, MSA Type 2 side skirts, and Classic Z Spoiler. Once mounted and mocked into place, you need to make sure all gaps are consistent and fit is type against the body. Simple trick I use was to place duck tape on the body centered behind the edges of all fibergalss parts. Once all the edges are trimmed to allow for a tight fit against the body I fill any gaps with polyester body filler so that all gaps are smoothed right up against the body. The aluminized duck tape does not allow the filler to adhere to the body and provides easy separation with a nice smooth fit. All the body peices can now be removed for sanding, priming and blocking. Now back to the my little hood mod! A little trip to the interweb and Ebay lands me AutoLouvers store where I find some louvered panels- 11 louvers, angled, 7"x16" panels... Now we trace the original vent shapes onto the new louverd panels, cut them out, test fit and trim if needed. Warning never weld on these hoods if you can avoid it! You are dealing with two layers of thin sheetmetal and warpage can occur very easily! Now that we have our perfect fit, get some 3M two-part epoxy. Read the directions thoroughly and follow them precisely. What we did here was use the 3M epoxy to "weld" these two metal sheets together. When done properly this 3M epoxy is stronger than steel you are bonding together! It is also sandable once cured so apply it liberally and don't be afraid to ooze it out of the seems and lightly smooth leaving you plenty of excess to sand done for smooth lines and factory finished look. Secure each panel in place with "C" Clamps temporarily. You have plenty of potable time for adjustment, while scured in place with the clamps place a self-tapping screw every 2" around the outside edges to ensure a secure bond and to force the excess epoxy out of the edge lines to provide a smooth tight finish. Once cured out 24 hours later you can simply remove the screws(some may have to be grinded off) and then you can start sanding the excess epoxy off with 80 grit and then use a polyester filler for final sanding and to fill your screw holes. This is how it should look after sanding and priming! Now to the rest of the body repairs, priming, and final blocking! Hail dents removed from roof and ready for skim coat. DA sanding the two layers of silver metallic and then on to skim coating... Now to the first quote of primer! And finally your first look at the modded tail light panel welded in. Sorry but earlier pictures were corrupted and lost... After days upon days of block sanding progressing from 300-400-600-800. We are ready for the first color coats! I chose the redest red you can find 2012 Ford Race Red Code PQ. This is a two stage paint used on Ford Focus, Mustang, and Special Order F150 Trucks. Stock paint makes it easily available for repairs and touch ups. So now we have every thing painted with 4 coats of basecoat each coat color sanded with 800 grit. Then it's on to 4 coats of clear for that glass like shine. Color sanded again and then buffed out for final assembly. Here it is as it came out of the paint shop on June 14th, 2013 partially assembled. I am currently installing the custom grill screens I made and painted satin black. I also have 350Z emblems to replace the fender emblems and the Nissan Z front emblem in black chrome for the nose. I also, used Dupli-Color's Chrome Blackout to give that black chrome look to all the original chrome around windows, roof rails, door handles, and locks. Still have to finish installing interior, stereo, speakers, fog lights, new carpet, re-surfaced interior trim pieces, and whatever else I forgot to do earlier! I will post the final pics in the next couple of days as I finish things up! Thanks for reading along and let me know what you think!
  11. Hey all I'm new to posting on Hybrid Z, but not new to the forum. There is so much invaluable knowledge that I've found on this forum that has motivated me to move forward with my project. I'm currently in automotive school and work at a garage and plan on working on it as much as I can. The story behind the Z is special to me. It was my grandfathers before it was mine. He grew up racing Porsches in SCCA races, but he always drove a Z (240z all the way to 300zx) as his daily to and from work. I have many fond memories of riding in the passenger seat winding around riverside roads with my grandfather. Around 35 years ago he put his 1971 240Z in storage. Sadly it wasn't climate controlled and a lot of moisture got in and started rust. It now has a lot of dust and corrosion, but nothing that's not salvageable. Only the rear rockers are needing patching, floor pans are good as far as I've been able to see so far, as well as underneath battery tray. The hatch is in pretty bad shape but I picked up a 260z hatch as a replacement and am going to put the glass from the 240 in it. Due to an accident when moving the car into storage the drivers door was opened too far and bent the area near the hinge. I'm looking for a door to replace the damaged one. I'm excited for where this project will end up. I'm towing from the storage unit to my house (70mi) on a car trailer this week and I'm going to clean up and take detailed photos of everything for you all to see. I love this forum and I want to thank all the members for providing all the awesome content that is already here and am glad o be a part of this awesome community.
  12. Gas Tank Restoration

    I had many issues with fuel starvation due to debris in my gas tank. It has already been coated with resin in the past so the only option to fix the issue for good was to open up the tank, shot-blast it & weld it back. So here are the steps taken so far. I need advice regarding how to weld it back. If somebody could chime in and let me know the best option, I would really appreciate First, obviously, tank was dropped from the car: I ground the lips to expose the factory welds: ...so I can use my angle grinder to cut the welds I've used a thick knife with a hammer to open up the tank ...to end up with tank in 2 pieces Shot blasting process is a no brainer, except I cannot do it myself. My shot blasting cabin is way to small... Next step will be to weld everything back together. So far, this is how the lip looks like (minus the chips I've cleaned up), both shells are cut in front of each other. Sheet metal thickness is 0.040" (1mm). Not sure what would be the best way of doing it: - MIG or TIG weld? - how should I setup the lips? Should I do it according to option #1 or option #2 on the following drawing? I'm wondering if I shouldn't mill some material out of one shell (the bottom side is easier since no outlets are on the way) and weld a corner instead of a "flat surface". Obviously, I need something sealed (I'll add resin inside the tank afterwards also). option #2 seems more appropriate. Extra question: since tank is wide open, I'm wondering if couldn't also add some metal sheet to create some baffles around fuel pickup. Easiest way would a be a simple flat sheet around pickup. More elegant solution would be 4 V-shape sheets to surround pickup, not sure how to make it happen on the lower shell while the pickup is on the top shell... Thanks!
  13. I am in the middle of restoring my 75 280z and have a few questions im hoping you can help me with! I am doing an LM7, or 5.3 v8 build with a Camaro T56 6-speed. Currently, i have scrapped most of the underbody off to clean it up and get to the rust, and all of the rubber coating off of the floor on the inside. Behind the fenders i have noticed, by the door hinges there are a couple of spot welds for the fender/main body piece. I was thinking, that could really be strengthened up with a fresh weld, which got me thinking: Im cutting out the radiator support and welding in tubular, and making custom frame rail and motor, strut tower/firewall braces which should help a lot. I am also going to have a partial/custom cage. What other spots on the car could use some good welds to help strengthen the shell, due to running a 600+hp v8 turbo setup?
  14. My budget resto

    I just posted a few pics to be brief. It was primer grey, matte black hood, cowl and access doors. The body was COVERED with glazing compound. It was like a friggin M&M. I spent I know two weeks, sanding with like 80 grit and a mouse sander, chiseling with a hammer and screwdriver. Dear Lord. Paint it Rustoleum Gloss White, I painted it with a roller. Welded in new dog legs, new frame rails, welded the gas neck to the body, patched a hole in the left quarter. had to patch a hole where the left side of the front sway bar mounts to the frame. A rectangular sized piece of metal had been ripped off and was still bolted to the sway bar, leaving a hole in the frame. Painted the tail light housings/bezels, painted the chrome black based on Vintage-TechZ's instructions. New weatherstripping, fixed some wiring, installed all the AC components under the hood except for putting my compressor back on (Idk yet if anything is wrong with it). The hood is off a 73 and was junk when I started the project. Managed to save it and the original hatch (which was rusty...). I had another hatch that was clean but the hinges on one side had rusted at the weld and allowed the hinge to warp. I ended up deciding to save my old one. New struts (kyb), new tie rods, patched 4 spots in the floorboard and had to make new rear seat mounts on both sides, which I did with come C-channel from Lowes. POR-15'd the engine bay, top and bottom of the floorboard. Used internal frame sealer from Eastwood everywhere it would reach, in addition to drilling holes in the frame rails and capping them with plastic rivets. Then I undercoated it heavily with the nice 3M stuff that's like $10 a can. I believe I used four cans. Did the fusible link upgrade, polished my wheels, installed the cowl drain tubes inside both fenders. For the money, I did everything I could do and as well as I could do it. I don't mind the Rustoleum paint job so much. Looks good, and I can always repaint if something happens. I don't intend to get rid of the car, and I'm aware that I can't paint it with anything else unless the Rustoleum comes off. I figure if it looks good it's more apt to last longer than it would looking like a dog turd with window louvers. I spent about 7 mos on the car and about $1500 or so. Someone gave me a pretty nice CD player to put in it. Basically, I got the car as close as I could to the condition I wanted it in, balancing with that cost. I was unemployed during this project (I have an amazing fiance who has preferred, for the time being, that I stay home and do bitchwork, which I enjoy), so my budget was limited. I was also completely hammered or otherwise inebriated throughout pretty much every aspect of this project. My goal was to have fun during the project. Other than a handful of things, I absolutely dreaded working on this car, and for no particular reason. Some of what should have been fun was a complete pain until I had a 6-pack or a 40. Probably not the best example to set, but I did enjoy it, and I learned a lot about the car, about myself (yea, I went there), and I learned some pretty decent skills and unwound some - which, like I said, was my initial goal. I live in an apt and just moved to a new city. My best friend let me keep the car in his garage throughout the entire process. Very cool of him. I bring that up because, when I showed up for the last weekend of work, and to bring the car home, my friend had killed himself (rubber hose...exhaust...his car), right where my car was before I backed it out of the garage a few weeks earlier. Knew him for 14 yrs, very upbeat and positive guy, commercial airline pilot, really had his stuff together but apparently kept much of his depression to himself. It was excruciating to clear out that garage, and then to have to work on the car before I could move it. I had to have a friend hang out with me, because I couldn't stand to be in that room alone. But because I spent so much time there with Danny chewing the fat, tossing back beers and watching tv with him while I worked, this car has particular meaning. He was very encouraging in the project and was a hell of a friend. Wanted to show you guys my car, after I bugged some of you on how to do these things. I have to put the interior back in it, but other than that it's pretty much done. Sorry for the sad story, but...thanks, and enjoy.
  15. Hey guys my name is Joe Apostol. I'm pretty new to the Datsun scene. I live in Lansing, Michigan and in November of 2012 I purchased my first Datsun. I bought a 260z that came from North Carolina and looked like it had sat in the woods for a few years. I picked it up for $2300 with 80k miles, an l28 and 5 speed swap, rear disc brake conversion and it also came with a new exhaust and all new suspension/bushing throughout. I drove it for the first day I owned it and then put it in the garage and started working on it. Updates will be every couple weeks as I work a lot and am a full time student. So here are the pictures. I look forward to your comments and any advice you may have. Thanks The day it arrived at my house. I bought it and had it shipped to me Gutted it later that week Took out the center console and tried to fix some of the cracks so it wouldn't fall apart. I plan on buying a new one eventually Started installing carpet ripped off the exhaust cut a piece of the floor out and welded in a new patch bought a non webbed non egr manifold. Going to port it for the 60mm tb I bought Cut a hole in the turbo manifold so I can weld in my wg Installed the new cylinger head, been resurfaced, 5 angle valve job, also installed a cometic mls headgaske and arp head studs The worst of the rust, I cut most of it away since the picture and i'm going to fiberglass over it Brand new Greddy td06h 20g 76. trim Wastegate and dump tube. still have to weld it to the manifold I think that's about it for now.
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