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Horn is working! Surprisingly loud. The issue was the contact that slides against the steering wheel to ground the horn switch. I guess it was bent back slightly (straighter than it should have been) and was not grounding. Took off the multifunction switches to get easier access and just very slightly bent it to make easier contact.

Okay so the two tables for VE has given my some more fidelity with the tune . Can’t seem to pull off the two timing tables with AlphaN. Cant figure a way to include or delete a MAP sensor that doesn’t screw with the tune badly. I think with MS you have to use ITB mode which I thought took more expertise and data logs than I have . Runs good with SD running the timing , but I’d like more refinement. Still working on my air box and a buddy is printing me Velocity stacks to try . Also trying to put AC in the car ! I think the IAC idea might be scrapped for timing correction IAC .

More small updates -Wired the stereo yesterday. Already had the rear speaker wires routed since removing the plastic panels is a pain. It sounds terrible 😅 people aren't kidding that the speakers pointing at each other is a poor design. It's okay, but since I only have the two tears right now it sounds very thin. I think I'll be ordering some from speaker panels to fit in the original kick panel locations from MSA. Should help dramatically and wiring will be very easy in that area. Only issue right now is the time keeps resetting on my unit. I thought it was a battery issue or just when cranking but it looks like it happens even if I turn the Key to off for more than a minute or two. -New spare wheel arrived. I think it's now the nicest wheel I have haha. Tire arrives today. I'll get it mounted and report back on how it fits in the stock area. -Futofab axles arrived. The rearend is going to be a big job since I have to completely tear into everything from the diff out so I'm waiting to see if my OS Giken stuff actually ships at the estimated date. If it's not shipping in time I'll just install the axles and save the 3.54 swap until next winter or next summer. -Adjusted the T3 tri bar latch plate. Some of the bolts had come loose in the past several years of driving. -Tightened up some of the oil pan bolts and have basically no oil drips now. I think I was just overly cautious about not over torquing when I first reinstalled the pan after the rear main job this winter. -Current job is figuring out why my horn isn't working. Tested the horn switch with a multimeter and it seems to be grounding fine, ground the horn relay and I can hear it clicking, and also tested the horn directly with the battery and got a plenty loud sound.

I would be completely satisfied with an NA with those CFM numbers !!

OK, just wondered if anyone had done it.

I did this last night. It made a difference in the shifting, much smoother and easier. I didn't read the amazon listing, so the new packs of the Dorman 65277 only have 1 20mm washer, not 2, so I ran to the Honda dealership and got a Honda 94109-20000 washer. The Dorman is thinner and copper, the Honda is thicker and aluminum. They are both crush washers. I would say it made it 30-40% easier and smoother to shift. Cost about $10 and once my car was in the air took about 30 minutes because my cat was right in the way, so I had to drop the front of my exhaust to get my hand in there. I have V bands, so it was easy to do. The Corvette and Mustang crowd call it the anti venom mod.

Not that I know of. Since I have no idea how much boost the chamber can hold my standard answer is "I don't recommend turbocharging". It seems to me that when you cross a certain HP threshold with these cars is it worth keeping an L6?

has anyone played with turbocharging this head setup?

Lots of small fixes the past week: Replaced the glovebox light and made sure it was all working well. Replaced the hatch inner and outer seals. My installation was better, but the Resurrected Classics seal also fit far better, especially the inner. The precision kit felt like it need to be stretched just slightly, but the RC held in place on it's own before adding weatherstrip adhesive and clamping down. The RC seal was pre-cut to provide clearanc for the hinge seals. When I first opened it it seems a bit ugly or poorly done, but after checking fitment it seems to be very well trimmed for correct clearance. Also added new oem style hinge shims when I reinstalled the hatch. The striker on the bottom was adjusted as well. Will need much more work to get the fitment right since the passenger side has a much bigger panel gap despite shoving it over as much as I could, but at least now I can comfortably open and close the hatch without dragging down the seals. Added the rubber stoppers for the door handles to prevent vibration and finally reattached the escutcheon / finisher plastic in the door cups. Looks much tidier and less noisy. Next step here will be to really clean up the door panels from the tiny splatters that I never cleaned from the lizardskin. O2 sensor cable routing was far improved by going through the body harness grommet in the firewall. It's in a safer position away from the driveshaft now. No longer running down the console. Wideband controller grounding was also fixed after I blew a fuse then repeatedly had it blow. Driveshaft was rebalanced. Seems a weight had knocked loose at some point. Was vibrating really horribly on my drive back from SLC with my brother. Replaced the diff pinion seal with a spare I had while the driveshaft was out. New OSG limited slip may not arrive in time for me to rebuild so I wanted to not have that leak in the meantime. Finally added the barb to the turbo intake as a vacuum source for the catch can. Hopefully this resolves any future oil leaking and premature seal and gasket failures. Adjusted the brake pedal travel. The brakes were already a huge upgrade and now it feels even better. Couldn't get it to the FSM's required height, but the suggested pedal height seems excessively tall, so I'll call it good now that the pedal and clutch are even heights and the stoppers are adjusted to make them less noisy. New hardware for the brakes is on the way from T3 and I'm getting some local help to wire up the new electric fans. Futofab HD stub axles arrived yesterday. Very well packaged. The axles should be arriving today, along with the new spare tire from Z Car Garage that will fit in the original spare tire compartment while still working with my new big brakes. More pics and updates to come soon...

Fourth of July 2025 Pearl Harbor Fireworks and Car Show- This Joint Military Forces Fourth of July Celebration was held at Pearl Harbor Naval Base. It consisted of Two County Western Bands , Big Fireworks display and Car Show. There were over Two Thousand People in attendance from 4PM -9Pm. My 240z won 1st Place Trophy in Classic Rod Catalogue, The Event ended with 15 minute Long Fireworks Display over Pearl Harbor. Next- Finishing Details on the 8.8 Conversion

Thanks for the welcome back, this car has certainly had a rollercoaster of a fate over the last 10 or so years of ownership. Excited to build it into the best version of itself (for me). Thanks for the info, seems like Viking is a non-hype brand that offers shocks that do shock things, which I can appreciate. AE is slow on CS communications but that's understandable given the size of their operation. That said, for a ~$9K suspension kit, a bit more transparency and technical detail on their website would go a long way. If I can find a shock with more travel for the same dimensions or when I blow these out I'll swap. JRi's builder series and some of their GM line looks like it would bolt right in, only 0.3" longer extended length which seems negligible in terms of fitment (PN: 100-511-300). I agree, it seems incredibly unwise if that were the case but it wouldn't be the first time I'd seen it. I've seen similar suspension choices in GTAC (cars riding on bump stops) but that's usually done purposefully to keep the aero platform working optimally and not appropriate for a package like this. Considering the shock travel is a mere 3.6", its safe to assume this is an extremely low motion ratio design. It feels like a missed opportunity to fully leverage the bell crank inboard design (traditionally speaking) but perhaps packaging constraints of the S30 chassis left little room for alternatives. I'm hoping the bottoming out feature will be at the upper A-arm which would allow me to mount a 3D printed polyurethane bump stop on top of it. Going to email AE for an update on the wheel rates and now information motion ratios, thanks for the idea.

Good post. I was frustrated for a long time with companies not sharing spring rates on these parts. FWIW, Viking is legit, lots of fast SCCA guys run those things with good results. IF those spring rates were chosen to prevent bottoming out of the shocks, that's pretty poor design. My guess is that the motion ratio of the bellcrank will be the limiting/bottoming out feature here, and that the conversion to pushrods has resulted in some high force multipliers. My guess would be Viking starting point is mounting in a "muscle car" front end, where the motion ratio is fairly low. I'll be interested to hear what the APEX guys say!

Thanks Leon!! Really happy to have the car back out. Dug into the car over the weekend, found a couple loose nuts, and some unexpected and unwelcome suprises! The big one was my front rotors are not handling the heat very well. The car is stopping pretty nicely, but it seems that's coming at a cost. I'm not sure if this is new, or if it's an old crack that I hadn't noticed before, but it's here now and it's a problem. If I get a second crack, that means I now have a mostly disconnected piece of rotor flying around, and generally not a great idea. I've had these on the car since 2021, so I guess I can't be THAT mad at them. Anyway, rather than sinking $450 into new rotor rings, I'm taking the opportunity to go full floating rotor. Wilwood has been making a lot more lug-drive setups, and it will let me get away from the bolted hat/rotor combo. This will hopefully help fight some of the pad knockback issues I've been having, and generally improve braking feel. Consumable cost is about the same, the big cost of upgrading is new hats. Got some routine maintenance done as well, fluids changed etc. Filling the transmission is a pain in the neck, but a little hose and some creativity made it a little easier. I probably could make this a permanent feature if I wanted to. Modern problems require modern solutions. Ordered up some fresh-ish tires, going with a Pirelli slick, 325/660 rear, 305/660 front. Might be a slight challenge fitting the front, but I think this is the tire the car will run from here, so it will be nice to set it up for one size and call it a day.

Yeah, it needed a little more bend to clear what I have there, I was thinking to heat wrap the closest header tube to give it a little more protection

A little more clearance wouldn't hurt, but I think that's fine if it never gets any closer. You'll have to periodically check that the line hasn't sagged or moved due to being under load and things expanding due to heat. What did you bend? The fitting?

240Z RESTORATION PARTS IN THE USAI I found this video by Larry Chen about the relative new source of 240Z restoration parts. Their inventory covers body parts,interior plastic panels, grills,etc. If any one have tried their parts, please let us know concerning fit,quality,price and customer service. Their Website pic shows a 240z salvage yard so they might also sell used 240z parts. the company name is Resurrected Classics in Auburn, Georgia.

Apparently this is old news, but I just found out about it. You add 2 copper oil drain plug washers under the shifter detent bolt, and it makes the T56 shift much better. Anyone here done this? https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/want-smoother-shifts-try-this.686622/page-13

Hey DJHsuperZ Nice Z Your improvements are going to make this Z really move. The best price I can do is $50.. off retail, being a Hybrid Z member and free shipping($1099.99) You will be charged sales tax to states that Calif. collects on. You may order on our site jdmpowerhouse.com Hope to here back from you on a purchase Thank you Chip JDMPowerhouse

Welcome back, Carlton...and congrats on the major life changes/accomplishments! Following, as I'm super interested to hear how about the installation and how you like it. Thanks for documenting the process! 👍

Hi HybridZ, its been a while. Took a long sabbatical from working on my S30 to finish college and get a job. For the last 6 or so months its been full steam ahead, the project is currently being rust repaired at a local body shop and I've been collecting parts as budget allows. The first piece major piece of hardware to arrived is the Viking Performance Shocks from the Apex Engineered Track Attack Front/Rear Suspension kit. I noticed that Apex’s website lacks details on shock and spring selection, so I’m documenting my findings here for others and to start a discussion on their choices. What's Included: Box as it arrives from Viking Performance Serial Numbers of each of the shocks (PN: C203) Viking Performance Shocks Link Part Numbers of Springs (600# & 700#) Initial Impressions: The car will be caged and used primarily/almost exclusively on track, so a stiffer setup is expected. However the spring rate selection still raises some concerns: The S30 chassis doesn’t benefit significantly from extremely high spring rates, even with a roll cage. The rear suspension uses inboard cantilevered shocks, which traditionally increase effective spring rate via the lever arm. This spring selection guide from Viking Performance indicates that the spring rate for a car with IRS and axle weights of ~1200-1400# is a lot lower than the supplied springs. I'm hypothesizing that the high rates were chosen to prevent the shocks, which are short to fit the Z’s narrow frame and tight packaging within the front wheel wells, from bottoming out. I’ve reached out to Apex Engineered to clarify the wheel rates for this setup and will update this thread when I hear back. Let me know if any of you have run this kit or high wheel rates.

07-06-2025 polish day. Did some waxing. wipe down with a wet towel to get the dust off, and then a coat of pure caranauba wax from Mcquires (the Gold Class Caranauba Plus paste wax). My pallnet fuel rail has always been raw aluminum, but with some mothers mag wheel polish, a rag and elbow grease it turned out pretty good! I took a couple pics where you can see without and with polishing

Ok, after much tweaking and a little bending i arrived at this... workable?

Part 2-More 240Z Restoration- Body Work is mostly done utilizing Oxygen Acetylene Gas Welding. This method of welding was mainly used to repair automotive body repair. I learned this method when I was 15 years old and used it until the 1970s when Mig Wire Welding came in. The Mig Welding is a much productive method as it applied the heat faster and welding with less heat distortion to surrounding metal. However, I still use this method in certain applications to this day. Notice- Use a Small Torch Flame and Thin 1/16" Brass Rod. More Bodywork to come-

Welcome to HybridZ, and thanks for your question. Please feel free to introduce yourself and your car on our "New Members Forum": https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/68-new-members-forum/ Are you looking for something like this? Note the exemption in the text "*Not for digital dash on 280ZX." -- don't know if that applies to your car. (I'm guessing not, since your current sensor is single wire.) https://zcardepot.com/products/coolant-temperature-sensor-one-piece-240z-260z-280z-280zx?variant=19278308016241&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google%2Bshopping&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17820837536&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvajDBhCNARIsAEE29WoDT0QZie4ihN9KbIOfGu197wEIp5SP7gYahzfJ4Ta0qhc9CthVys4aArmBEALw_wcB#

Cool thanks for fast response ... I was thinking about going with the extreme super 8.8 set up... but then i found a great deal on techno toys 4340 billet stub axils new at $600, and a perfect shape oem 300zxt cv axils $119 that i put new cv boots grease in them ,and painted them like new condition .. I think this Mfactory helical set up would strengthen up the open 280zxt 1982 354 r200 dif ,and cv axils thats been in my 1976 280z with 500hp sbc roller motor since 2012 ...