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I hope the insulation you have on your turbine and exhaust header is sufficient. Its going to get super hot. Neat that you found a cool way to spend $50K dollars! Might as well add spoilers and flares and get some big meats for the car.....give it an hourglass figure!

Good afternoon seventytwo240z, I sent you a private message.

Good day. I know this has been listed for a bit but wanted to check and ask if it's still available?

The arms that are currently part of the complete setup come fully boxed for extreme hp applications and have a half inch spacer that you either leave behind the spindle for stock wheel placement, or place in front of spindle to move the wheel back. If you choose to move the spindle, you must also move the strut top as well so it doesn't bind. so far the best 1/4 mile time on this setup is 8.5 @ 163 and it doesn't skip a beat.

Still feeling terrible but I'm trying to get all the parts back onto the engine to make space for shell tear down. Today I put the hot side parts onto the engine, and like most custom setups clearances are exceptionally tight so assembly order and angles all matter. I think if I'm feeling better next week some buddies will come over to help strip the rest of the shell. I should probably also find some roller suspension for traveling to and around the bodyshop.

Hey guys....not pointing any fingers, but I would like to remind everyone to keep the discussion civil per our Forum Rules (#12 & 13, specifically). We're all on the same team here. Thanks very much.

zuhow: It appears that you think I'm being a DICK for having to point out TWICE that you failed to provide needed information. I think you'd better look at yourself in the mirror wearing your big boy pants.

Got super busy and had to take a break, but this week I got covid so I get to catch up on some unboxing and setup. Unboxed my shielded vband special PTZ and hot side components. Also my custom cnc intake manifold is in production so I should have that in soon. I'm changing directions a bit on the build. After years of keeping it a clean patina driver, I've decided to rotisserie restore the car at a local shop that does a lot of high end work for GTRs and other really sick JDMs. The target date to get it in is this spring so I'm going to finish all the bespoke fabrication work so everything goes together like Legos when I get the shell back in.

What kind of a car and engine is "this beast"? If you're idling an l6 in an s30 with an unvented bonnet and no heat shielding on the exhaust, the injectors may well be heat soaked. But then again, if as you say you can add fuel until it stumbles and it still reads lean, then it sounds like a duff sensor or an air leak in the exhaust. Is it a genuine Bosch LSU4.9? Where did you buy it?

It's an AEM 30-4110 with the bosch LSU sensor. No, the auto tune is not on. If there is some specific info you would like, please ask. I know you to be extremely knowledgeable, I would gladly welcome your help most appreciatively. But if you just want to be a d*ck, I'd prefer you just ignore this thread, thanks.

Is the auto-tune function on? It's possible that the ECU is trying to correct something and is doing a poor job of it.

02-05-2025 TURBO PROJECT UPDATE: I set about getting things masked off and then painted the areas that needed it on the inner fender. Once the paint is hardened, I can wet sand and polish it, and some will need touch up painting, typical stuff. I was then able to install all the heatshield I had to protect the brake system and fluid. I then replaced the 2 water/methanol supply lines that had damage on them and then filled the Water/Meth tank about half full of windshield washer fluid (30% methanol). Good progress! it is almost complete. Pics:

Getting enough info is like pulling teeth for some reason...

What sensor and wb controller is it?

Forgive me gentlemen, frustration posting. I was looking for a more general cause. I have an electromotive tecGT on a turbo application. I've checked the sensor and it will read rich or lean as appropriate in free air or a gas soaked rag. It's a new sensor. It's maybe had a half dozen hours of run time at idle to 2500rpm. I've just gotten the engine started and I'm now trying to get to a point where I'm able to take it for it's initial drive. I've had a little bit trouble getting a decent base map using the tuning wizard. I've been following the Clewett tuning instructions as a guide. So what seems to happen is I bring it up to 2500rpm and get the AFR to 14ish, then bring to idle and try to adjust there. Everything will be looking fine. But eventually the AFR meter will drift off to full lean. The car is loud, so I'm not hearing an exhaust leak, but that doesn't mean it's not there.

You ask a question without telling us what equipment you are running and expect an answer?

Sounds like a duff sensor.

I'm just getting this beast on the road, and I can't seem to figure out this issue. After a while, say maybe 15-20 minutes of warm up, my car starts to read full lean. I can add fuel to the point it wants to stall, and that sensor still reads lean. Starting from cold it behaves as expected, but at some point that stops. Do you think it's a leak in the intake or exhaust that open up at operating temp? I've looked for both, but haven't had any luck. Do you think it's just that AEM controller is junk? I'm at a loss, any direction would be appreciated.

Black Friday got me GOOD. I picked up MS3 Pro Mini, ProTunerZ 14mm fuel rail and manifold adapters, Deatschwerks 800cc injectors, Radium 10 micron stainless fuel filter, Aeromotive Stealth 340 in-tank retrofit kit, and all the bits to rebuild my soft lines with -8AN PTFE hose. E85 here I come! Over the last two months I pulled my tank to clean and install the in-tank retrofit. I used 1/4" wood blocks to space down the tank for clearance, plus thin pieces of foam on the passengers side so the pump unit wasn't touching the body directly. I had to bend the fuel level sender arm to clear the giant foam baffle. I also replaced the expansion tank hoses to be E85 compatible, using 2 90* fittings to make the u-turn on the 5/8" vent. Back of the car is done, and only had to rework one leaky hose-end! Now on to the front hoses, fuel rail and injectors. I'll tune with the 800cc injectors running 91 for awhile, then eventually rewire for MS3, add a flex fuel sensor, and start tuning for E85.

240z hidden drive by wire actuator for my ITB setup. This is design number 4. This plan utilizes a Efi hardware actuator. The goal is the same length arm to the bell crank and distances from shafts and the rod. So the rod passes through the firewall evenly and doesn’t walk from left to right. This will mount to the pedal plate and the steering box mounts. So behind the firewall Prior designs walked too much in the hole and I don’t want that.

Hi, I know it's an old post but I'd be interested in the Vintage air vent adapter if it's still available? I have a 260z but the twin center vents should be the same. I'd be using OEM face plate.

Reviving an old thread... I have a '77 318 Z. It's actually for sale right now but I'm not posting to sell it, just to show it to you folks.

02-01-2025 TURBO PROJECT UPDATE: Another step(s) forward. I managed to get the oil drain line installed. Of course, I ran into problems, this time being the steering rod was right smack in the way. . By using parts I had and some thread sealer I picked up at Lowes, I managed to get it in. In the picture, you can see a clamp at the oil pan area. That is squeezing the hose open, as no matter what I did it wanted to pinch a bit. It worked!! I also used a piece of aluminum with zip ties to cover the drain hose where it touched the steering rod. This will protect the hose. After all of this, I got my outside air temp probe mounted....it is in the passenger wheel well. I then began the process of grinding down screws and sanding to prep the inner wheel well area behind the turbo for paint I got it feathered out and then blew the area off. Next time, God willing, I will wipe the area down, mask and paint. After that I have to re-run some water methanol lines and install all of the heat blankets, etc. I have for the brake master cylinder. Other than a trip to the muffler shop to tie the exhaust in, the project will be done (finally, feels like it is taking forever). Cheers! Pics:

got mine yesterday and they look great except for the mounting kit for the smaller ones, they are 2 millimeters small in the outer circumference or it could be my old dash maybe. And i need to ad some anti glare to the meters... A few days later, installed in car and needles dont go to zero when switched of, poor engineering. If i knew i would not buy them.........☹️

Thats almost invincible.