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A minor point on the larger EPS systems as this information wasn't readily out there when I was researching. For the Versa unit, I clearanced the brake pedal then plated it back in for reinforcement to achieve the OE pedal position as a starting point, otherwise the pedal would need to be adjusted downwards to clear the EPS gearbox assembly. This allows a full range of adjustment and is not necessarily a negative as ime getting the stock s30 pedals closer helps me in heel toe but def something to consider in EPS options if you have a preference for pedal position.

thanks. It is at G Pop Shop. Getting Carbon Seals installed, and a possible port and wheel change for quicker spool. My redline is 5500-6000 RPM, so I am willing to sacrifice a top end I won't use for more "meat" in the mid range.

Yes the regular kit will fit under RKRs 15x8 +0. Here is a pic from like 10yrs ago when I was still daily driving my Z, you can see the T3 big wilwoods peeking out under the rkrs I took a bunch of pictures and measurements with rkrs and watanabe/several other wheels a couple yrs back when I decided to go ZCG due to the limitations on the t3 kit. I also ran a 1" wilwood MC but would not recommend it today as the unit leaked internally and externally so I went new OEM. Will DM you those later when I get some time to dig them up.

I'll measure the hubs with a caliper when I'm home in about a month and confirm! Should be identical though (but you never know with some stuff so I'll double check) Does the regular kit really fit under the RKRs?? That's what I'm running now 15x8 -0 offset. If I ever changed wheels it would be to something bigger. I'll check those other options you messaged me about, but might be tempted to run their regular BBK if it for sure fits under the RKRs. How did you like the pedal feel? Did you upgrade the master cylinder? I'm already on the bigger booster since I'm in a 280z, but I have the stock master cylinder which is 7/8". I don't care too much about a super stiff pedal, I prefer a bit of control as long as it's not mushy.

The regular t3 wilwood BBK is really nice, I ran it for many years and miles under a set of 15x8 Rota RKRs which were one of the only 15s I found that would fit that setup. The watanabe 15s don't fit due to the inner barrel design. The ebrake setup where the cable pinched the rear brake pads was not the best ime and I always kept the car in gear when parked as it would sometimes roll. I almost forgot about the t3 sale. Do the hubs you got have the same offset as the OE? Nice build progress 😁

Sorry, didn't mean to give you that impression. I would pull it and drop it in your pickup bed/trailer with the engine hoist.

11-19-2024 TURBO PROJECT UPDATE: My crown turbo pieces are back from J&S Custom Polishing. Pretty nice, huh?

Yeah....I have started to realize the same thing. I will let it make what it makes and provide the fuel, methanol and water it needs. the knock sensor will save it. If it wants to spool immediately, that would be exactly what I want. I don't go over 6K RPM anyway. I am going to talk to the turbo builder and see what he has for custom wheels....apparently more vanes brings earlier spool.

Sadly, I don't have the ability, equipment or manpower to pull an engine from a car. Thanks tho.

I'm in Los Angeles and have a carbed N42 still in my car that's a classic "ran when parked five years ago". It ran well, but has a couple broken exhaust studs and some leaks, so would be a good candidate for a freshen up. Im not sure on value. I believe a few years ago Datsun Spirit advertised a $900 core charge, but now you have to call them to get that info. Facebook Marketplace and eBay generally show over $1k. I'm open to offers, but i think around $1k is a fair starting point if you're interested

Just got an update from John on my bumper, almost done

Electric power steering kit was ready today. They are local, so I just picked it up.

Updates! I found that I was still using the opto-isolator tach input/output circuit with EDIS, as originally suggested by B&G. MSExtra now recommends using the VR circuit, so I swapped to that. I haven't noticed a huge difference, but the placebo effect has me thinking it's running a bit smoother. I'm still having trouble fully eliminating my light ping above 10psi, even with timing pulled back to 15* and running 11.9 afr. I'm worried about EGTs (which I'm not monitoring) if I pull any more timing. I'm starting to wish I'd spent the time on some headwork before reassembling the longblock. Maybe I'll look into installing my methanol kit until I'm ready to take the plunge into E85, but I hate to have to do that temporarily. I just don't know what else I can troubleshoot. I do have a pretty constant miss at idle that I haven't been able to track down, but I can't see how that would have anything to do with my ping.

When I was running a small turbo on a big stroker, I was basically making boost right off idle and 10-15psi by like 3000 rpms. If I read correctly, you're only going for 1-3psi of boost? You will easily be making that off idle, certainly below 4000 rpms.

Right now it's just sitting in there, since I removed the forward console mounting bracket for weight reduction lol. Eventually I plan to put that back in and solid mount the cage to it.

Thanks!

Might have better luck on classiczcars.com. More traffic and there are some parts traders there. Good luck.

My welder also does powder coating, so I am having him powder coat the J pipe and down pipe with some graphite black colored hi temp powder. Supposedly good for 1800 degrees F. Also....G POP , who is doing the carbon seals on my turbo is going to hi temp powder coat my hot side with some 2000 degree F Titanium color powder coating, and then the compressor side is being Powder coated gold. You will see, it will all come together. also mulling over having the turbo ported and maybe a custom turbine for the hot side to spool the turbo quicker since I like my 5500-6000 RPM redline. We go forward!

That looks like a stage 3 turbine which is good for street. You need a .63 A/R turbine housing - your spool will be somewhere around 3100 rpm.

Turbo guru's please read: I have the T3 Turboboosts M12 turbocharger I got off of eBay, and because of what I have learned on here and other pages....being a draw through setup with crown manifolds, etc., I have sent the turbo off to "G POP Shop" in Arkansas to gee carbon seals installed, and the hot side is getting their high temp coating in Titanium finish, and I am having the compressor side powder coated in gold. Since it is there, I am thinking about possibly having a custom hot side wheel put in to create a faster spool. It has journal bearings, which doesn't bother me as this is just a weekend around town toy. The Specifics of the turbo are: Compressor : Inducer 52.7mm, exducer (outer diamter) 76 Ex turbine: exducer 55.8mm, Inducer ( outer diameter) 64.8 Trim: 48.1 A/R .50 420 HP Rated. Going on to a 171 cubic inch (2859cc) inline six cylinder Any opinions on exhaust wheel sizes, etc., that will help deal with a 4000 RPM spool, outside of manifold work and larger down pipe enlarging etc. I am thinking custom wheel(s). Not sure if porting would help either. P.S. I was shocked to find out Garrett turbos are made in Shanghai, CHINA.

Turbo guru's please read: I have the T3 Turboboosts M12 turbocharger I got off of eBay, and because of what I have learned on here and other pages....being a draw through setup with crown manifolds, etc., I have sent the turbo off to "G POP Shop" in Arkansas to gee carbon seals installed, and the hot side is getting their high temp coating in Titanium finish, and I am having the compressor side powder coated in gold. Since it is there, I am thinking about possibly having a custom hot side wheel put in to create a faster spool. It has journal bearings, which doesn't bother me as this is just a weekend around town toy. The Specifics of the turbo are: Compressor : Inducer 52.7mm, exducer (outer diamter) 76 Ex turbine: exducer 55.8mm, Inducer ( outer diameter) 64.8 Trim: 48.1 A/R .50 420 HP Rated. Going on to a 171 cubic inch (2859cc) inline six cylinder Any opinions on exhaust wheel sizes, etc., that will help deal with a 4000 RPM spool, outside of manifold work and larger down pipe enlarging etc. I am thinking custom wheel(s). Not sure if porting would help either. P.S. I was shocked to find out Garrett turbos are made in Shanghai, CHINA.

And in a perfect world, one in So Cal that I can pick up. Thanks!

Thinking of brakes once again. There are really only a few "big" things left for me to do and past that it just becomes upgrades or redoing old things to clean them up more. -T3 micro big brake kit is 20% off, which is huge actually. Their micro kit is about the same size as the ZCG kit and has the rear parking brake retained. Tempted to get them. I don't think their normal bbk will fit under my 15" wheels and I don't want to upgrade to bigger wheels. Not sure if I want to get these or the Milkfab upgrade and take the savings towards the Nexus R3. Happy to have some feedback from @lowrider -Need to upgrade to electric fans and reroute my intercooler piping. Looking into a custom shroud with Spal fans. -Complete hoses for AC. Friend is working on 3D designing the bulkhead to match the existing holes from the factory AC. -Install and wire the head unit so the console/dash area doesn't look like its missing something. Beyond those things everything is "done." I want to eventually upgrade to the new Haltech Nexus R3 units. Having so many things built right in including power control to the fuel pump, fans, and built in wideband controller is a major upgrade from my MS3X, but again is one of those things that I technically don't need. We'll see what the future holds.

How did you end up mounting it?

$195 ish for the carbon seals installed along with a rebalancing of the turbo wheels, and a thorough checkup for the turbo. It makes my turbo just that much better. Granted its Journal bearing instead of Ball bearing, for my uses, it is fine. On a Draw through Turbo, the vacuum created by the carb being in front of the turbo, tends to cause turbos to leak oil by pulling oil through the seals and burning it, leaving a blue smoke cloud behind you when driving along. This alleviates that.