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Finishing Details of the Super Duty 8.8 Conversion- Strut Spring Tubes- The Threaded Strut Tubes were obtained from BC RACING. If you don't have a TIG WELDER, Vladmir can weld his Strut Tubes Brackets on. BC RACING STRUT TUBES STRUT TUBES with Brackets WELDED ON After installing the Complete Strut Assemblies with Coil Springs and car on the ground, you can adjust the Spring Preload and Spring Height. Adjust the Spring Height to your preference. Double check Wheel to Body Clearance by testing the suspension under various road conditions. Exhaust System Modifications- I raise the Dual Exhaust Pipes for extra clearance(Speed Bumps, etc), REAR EXHAUST PIPES also, had to widen to accommodate the Wider 8.8 FORD DIFFERETIAL. Rear View of Exhaust System .

shroud complete and ready to go~!

My new speaker pods arrived, and I wired up my Spal fans and shroud from Galgo today! Need some more speaker wire that I'll pick up tomorrow. Fans work really well. Have them set to turn on at 185 and off at 175 in megasquirt.

It seems like the posts here are fairly old and there are more options and all have now updated speed feedback usually via GPS or some other means to make everything automatic. There are a few other power steering options, two good electric and one more high end hydraulic more customizable and for show: https://zpowersteering.com/ I think this seems to be what many are say is one of the better ones out there that has evolved and the level regulates by the speed of the car so no knobs needed but this and the other electric I believe can be adjusted. ZPS uses a much smarter solution. Our proprietary system continuously senses and measures the torque differential between two inputs: Your hands on the wheel, and the tires on the ground. When there is a disparity between these values, our system instantaneously applies or subtracts steering assist so it remains constant and linear. It is a “need-based” application of power, rather than being based on an irrelevant value such as vehicle speed. Simply put – When you need it, it’s there. When you don’t, it’s not, just like a hydraulic system. https://www.ezpowersteering.com/car-brands/datsun-en-us/240z-en-us/z-series/ I think this was one of the first ones and has evolved and supposedly Zpowersteering copied their design? https://retrorack.com.au/240z-rack-kit This is cool looking, very customizable, well built if you want hydraulic https://www.silverminemotors.com/products/electric-power-steering-kit-for-240z-260z-280z-datsun-1970-1978-s30?srsltid=AfmBOoo542JU9EXenZ92aEsoDikk3hWuIf06n2-OgBn6SwUdxCeLvKvq I have this on my wife's 240z and it works well. To me it is a little sensitive but when you get used to it, the feel is decent. I have another 240z that I am thinking of trying the Zpowersteering option or the EZpowersteering? Not ready to pull the trigger so if anyone has experience in those compared to the Silvermine, I would love to hear your thoughts? Right now I am leaning towards EZpowersteering?

Have you tried clocking it any? There is an area of the stroke that it won't work in.

Hello, I have installed the Jeep 4.0 I6 Cam Sensor. However, I am not getting a CAM signal on the composite logger. I did verify I was getting 5V, ground and signal to the switch. Jeep 4.0 I6 cam sensor I believe is an open collector hall. So I did jump JP7 on the MS3X board. R32 I turned it anti-clockwise many turns to ensure its all the way. R11 I used the ZC Testpoint, I got 2.41 V by turning it clockwise until it wouldn't go up any higher. I have the tunerstudio set to Toothed wheel, Coil on Plug, MS3X Cam In, Dual wheel with missing tooth. But still no cam signal on the composite logger. I'm going to move forward with starting the engine and breaking it in on the dyno using wasted spark. But I would like to get this sorted out... for others that are running sequential using the Jeep sensor and MS3X... can you please let me know what I may be missing.

Looking through some old reference videos I found one from a couple years ago on carb sync check, throttle response and engine movement with the new at that time Milkfab engine mounts. You could balance a glass of water on the valve cover on idle and rev 😆. I had played with a few configurations and had it pretty dialed at that point, with an emphasis on driveability and response. I'm hoping when it comes back together the response will be even snappier with the more free flowing Protunerz manifold and vband G Series turbo. 20230207_161111.mp4

Thanks he's usually around when I'm working on projects but mostly out of frame. Spent a couple weeks recovering from surgury but feeling well enough now to start back in on things. Working through clearancing the rear end for the twin 60mm exhaust tonight I realize I should probably just fully modify everything now versus after the underside gets refinished. I clearanced the t3 r200SN front mount, and while the welds aren't the most aesthetic, I'm fairly impressed as it has full root penetration. Working forward, I had previously clearanced the rear crossmember but I think I want to fully plate it out and weld in some structural reinforcement.

Radiator arrived:

Well while the z was in the back garage I pulled the exhaust off . I had tried something that I won’t do again but I used a square port gasket ( Nissan ) on my mn47 head with my square port header . I was getting some small leaks when I pressurized the exhaust during leak checks . I went back with the gasket to match the head which worked fine before . Also stared at the ITBS for a long time trying to figure out why #3 was sucking more air . As you can see in the pics the linkage was digging into the side of the ITB . Shining a light into the ports before hand did seem to show 3 open a hair more . It was such a small difference I can’t swear I did anything , but I’m betting it’s enough . I ended up just filing the tab on the linkage down . I also figured a way to run my coolant bypass on #6 . I’ll run it under my ITBS on top of the heat shield . Might also try again to run air for a remote IAC . It’s actually getting too busy under the ITBS . Also on the to do list is to find some different cooling fans . I want to run brushless for the versatility and power since I want to install AC . AC is ordered from AC solutions but that’s a month out at least . Cold air box got glued tonight . 75mm Stacks are getting printed out and I’m getting close to finalizing this long project !

Buy the nicest one you can afford. Trust me.

The video shows the best method of Removing paint and rust from your 240z in preparation for restoration. This Chemical Wash is the most complete method of stripping all paint and corrosion from the vehicle. It will even get inside every nook and cranny of the metal structure. Even, Abrasive Blasting can not get inside of the interior of the boxed metal. Also, after the chemical wash, a rust inhibitor is sprayed completely on the metal surface. This inhibitor will prevent even surface rust from forming for couple days to a week depending on the humidity of your area. But, Chassis Epoxy Paint should be appied as soon as possible to prevent surface rust from forming. The only Downside of this Cleaning process is Cost and Location of these Dipping Plants. The prices cost over $1500. The location of the Plants are few and far away( check Web for the closest one to you).

IF YOU GOT THE $$$$, CARBON SIGNAL can do the Complete Restoration.

240Z Restoration done in Indonesia-20 min video Look how many workers that are working on the restoration at the end. Just like a Army of Ants.

I'll take the scan if you still got it, appreciate you doing this. I have a scanner at work but its difficult to justify bringing home a $50k+ piece of equipment for the weekend XD

Another weekend of work has gone by, with my efforts spent on mounting the radiator. Time spent thinking of bracket design was more than I would have preferred. However, I did come up with something that will work well. Had I to do it again from scratch, I would use thicker sheet metal. What I have done here instead is fabricate up some brackets using some .032" (.8 mm) sheet. After test fitting them, I found it necessary to double up the part that bolts to the lower box channel of the radiator support. For the lower bolt hole in the bracket, I installed a rivet nut in the frame. For the upper hole (drilled after mounting the brackets using a bolt in the lower hole), I drilled through where the back face of the lower frame is spot welded to the front U section and used 6 mm x 1 mm bolts, washers and nuts. Being two layers thick at that part of the original frame box, it is pretty solid there. The lower brackets will handle the weight of a full radiator as well as g forces from bumps and braking. The rubber cushions support the radiator from the underside. To keep the radiator from shifting forward and back, or left and right, I came up with the idea to attach these brackets with holes that positively locate on the rubber mounts. Even with a lot of care when taking measurements, I ended up with holes needing to be offset toward the front instead of centered. Oh well. With this set of pictures showing the single top mount bracket, you can see a bit better how this design works. The bracket with the hole is 1/8" thick aluminum. That is riveted to the U channel at the top of the radiator. Another bracket which will bolt to the radiator support using an already existing welded in nut (7 mm with 1 mm thread), has a third rubber bumper bolted to it. This bumper positively locates the radiator via the hole in the bracket which is riveted to the radiator. The bumper in this upper bracket sandwiches the radiator (between the two lower bumpers and the upper bumper). I have also made the upper bracket with a rear, downturned flange. I will glue a piece of rubber insulator inside the back lip of this upper bracket. This will prevent the radiator from moving backward, as it might otherwise when the car is at high speed and air is pressing hard against the front of the radiator. I may need to come up with a similar type of flange to add at the bottom of the radiator for the same functionality. My clearances are so tight at between the fans and the front of the engine, that I need to ensure no rearward movement of the radiator can occur.

People's Choice at a small cars and coffee in town this weekend. Brakes feel really good. It's weird feeling how firm the pedal is compared to the originals now that it's all stainless hoses and the rear has been upgraded. Even the parking brake is better than I expected! Getting wheels balanced today - I know for a fact one had a couple weights knocked off, I can see where the adhesive was, and I'm still upset about how many weights they used to balance one corner. Someone wasn't doing their job right when they mounted the tires I think, because there's no way you need two long strips on opposite sides to get a wheel balanced.

Part 3-More Bodywork- In this version, the Mig Welding is also utilized in the restoration process. Part4-

Good evening gents I got my first inspection cleared with some minor things to fix so now i have five years to finish the build (he wanted to see me at the end of August ) . With that done i was able to pain all the weld, start interior work and mount the Datsun back up again, sooooo, it's done just waiting for my half shafts. The half shafts is actually the only thing that keeps me from a test run. Brakes, clutch are bled, emergency brake mounted, it's pretty much only interior work that has to be done Cheers Christian

The car I had planned to do this on was going to run very low, so all the suspension pick-up points were raised 2+ inches. The upper mount was a plate that bolted into the upper strut mount and used an 8-inch-long jack bolt with a clevis for the top of the shock to bolt to. The tube holding the jack bolt would have a sheet metal bracket supporting the end of the threaded section, or I'd extend the cage tubes directly into this to make the mount stiffer. That was work still left to do. I have some Penske 7350 Base valve shocks (eBay specials) that I planned to revalve. These have 7 inches of travel, but I didn't plan to use all that, and are very long. This has now been on the back burner while I try and deal with some back health issues. I also have a street car that I want to finish and I have been looking at doing a-arms but using a bolt-in solution to not destroy any value the car may have. So I have been thinking about this more lately, which is why your post has piqued my interest.

07-19-2025. Well today was a day to get the car ready for it's updated radiator and fans, and do some other small work. I took both SPAL fans and tested them to ensure they work and that they spun in the right direction. Then I began the process of pulling the radiator out. I found that I needed some different bolts for the water pump pulley, and so while there I went ahead and got all new hardware for the radiator when it gets here. I bought some thick rubber washers to isolate the aluminum radiator fromt he car, to keep corrosion of the radiator at bay. After that I swapped out my radiator thermostat from the factory 180 temp to a 160 temp and then installed a new Speedo cable. I spent a little more and got one from the Z car Depot, partly because it comes with a new firewall grommet. Ready for more new parts to arrive! PICS:

Well much rain is forecasted so I’m taking her off the road to attend to issues as in exhaust leak somewhere and # 3 port pulling more air than the others . Of course the only way to see the butterfly in the ITB is to remove it . I think the exhaust leak is at the header flange so that’s a remove project - ugh . I also think I might have pulled off my air box scheme . Taking me a while to get better at forming the plexiglass but the new buck is spot on for the most part . Hopefully I get all these issues resolved during the downtime . The engine is really running good but I’m hoping longer stacks will bring me into the sweet spot . A friend is printing out the 75mm stacks and I’ll probably also do a set of 90’mm . I think I have plenty of room to fit 90’s without impeding flow around them .

My SPAL fans arrived today:

I agree, I reached out to Apex earlier this week asking about feasibility using the existing shock stroke with 400-450# springs. Yes, loading the outside tire on burm and then hitting an imperfection on the track seems like it would decimate one of these shocks (same with hitting kerbs/rumble strips) unless I find a way to get more travel. If I could get 5inches of travel I would be very happy but I will try for a full length (~6.5") shock design if I end up copying MMI's Mod 2. Very interesting, would definitely prefer welded to bolt-on but if everything fits up right I could end up using it as a way to test different upper wishbone lengths. The Griggs conversion looks like a pretty strong structure but I don't want to jump to conclusions quite yet. Do you have any photos of your work? Interested to see what your mounting solution looks like. If I can avoid trimming the strut tower and still get the full stroke shock I will.