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Sounds like front wheel bearings. Your tires will wear out faster also.

So that goes to the vacuum port on the throttle body, the other one comes from the gas tank. Where does the 3rd one go to? I have an LS swap and trying to figure out hot to hook it up.

Someone got the canister off an old Nissan truck, I think a Frontier. It was newer and looked exactly the same. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1002271&cc=1211050&pt=5180&jsn=606 Maybe it was off an early 90s truck?

Wanted to give an update. she is fixed. It was the bosch 124 ignition module. The ground had corrosion under the connecter at the chassis ground and replaced the module. Also it now has a keyway in the ati underdrive pully and Im getting ready to install kameari twin idler and their perfromance oil pump.... I already installed the adjustable cam gear. she pulls really hard as its climing past 6k. I havent had the guts to keep my foot in it much past 6k but there really isnt any need to rev much higher anyway. mods list sense last post cylinder head.... I did more port matching and cc matched the combustion cambers had the head decked alittle more.... and I unshrouded the valves and polished the combution chambers.... also port matched the intake to the head/intake gasket hx35 now has a billet compressor wheel 2010 sti diff installed only problems Im having at the moment is when driving the car it wants to follow the grooves in the road but on flat road it drives perfect and the alternater doesnt charge under 2k rpm because of the ati underdrive pulley alignment settings are 2.5 camber 6 caster 1/8 toe in ride height 6in 17in rims 245 40 17 kumo v730 next im probly going to replace a the u joints but shes boosting and driving great.

07-25-2025. I had a couple hours today, so I decided to see if the radiator would bolt in. Since June of 2021 I have been building my Z car. This is FIRST aftermarket part EVER to bolt right in. I didn't have to mod it at all. I was speechless. Granted, swapping the fans out to the SPAL fans required drilling and playing with it to get it done. However, I was able to drop the radiator and the fan should assembly right in. It is still loose, but it is there, hoses on, loose, but the idea today was......with a little time to see how far I could get it together, it literally just fell together. So "cubauto" on Amazon, there radiator for our Z cars goes right in! Now, the overflow tube on the cap was put on crooked, so I have to live with that, that is the only negative in an overall very nice looking package. Because of the size of my remaining port on the thermostat housing, using a sensor to turn the fans on and off isn't going to work. Being that my Z is just an around town toy, I will be turning the fans on and off via toggle switch. The remaining switch is 20A rated, but I ordered a switch that externally looks the same but is 30A rated to swap in. I will be feeding both fans with 10 gauge wire which is 30A rated and will forgo using a relay. 30 fA use and it will be basic, clean, and work. I swapped out the 19 lb radiator cap for the facotry 13 lb one for now. Pics follow. Good few hours today! Cheers!

wired thing is my dash is digital...

Yep ! Looks just like this one !! I will make sure there's not a kink in the wire before I order it. Thank U very much jhm 🙏

And finally the new cold air intake I 3d printed in nylon/cf

My first prototype of a printed taillight surround and final version. I printed in 3 pieces then laid fiberglass over the back to stiffen them and bond together in 1 piece.

Header wrap and insulation

Some more 3d prints

Finally we took some POR15 chassis black and painted the exposed metal. Under the flares it looks almost invisible.

For the front's we bent a length of 3/16 rod and tack welded it in place. This stiffens the fender back to OEM or better. I have seen a cut fender wrinkle before when doing hot laps on a track. Weld and grind smooth.

This is where it gets fun. We cut the rear inner panel slightly longer than the outer panel. This allows the inner fender to be bent and lightly hammered out to match up with the outside panel for welding. Stripped back the paint just far enough were we were certain it would not show around the flare. Then weld um up.

Just went through the process of installing some small carbon fiber ZG's on a 280Z. Goal is squeezing some 18x8 wheels underneath. Probably nothing to learn here, but this is how I do it. First we sized everything up and looked at it. Then looked some more. Then swap them all around and looked more. Then repeat 10 times. Finally we drew a fat line with a Sharpie on tape where the cuts would go.

I think I had a setting wrong in Tunerstudio. I had Second Trigger Active On set to Rising but reading the manual again, it should be set to Poll Level. I will make this change and try it again. I just need to get my flywheel back to try cranking it, might be a couple days. Do you think that will solve my problem of no cam signal?

I followed the manual on how to set the position of the cam sensor. The attached picture is the manual next to what my cam sensor location is at. Only difference is my crank sensor is on tooth #6 from the missing tooth when engine is TDC.

Finishing Details of the Super Duty 8.8 Conversion- Strut Spring Tubes- The Threaded Strut Tubes were obtained from BC RACING. If you don't have a TIG WELDER, Vladmir can weld his Strut Tubes Brackets on. BC RACING STRUT TUBES STRUT TUBES with Brackets WELDED ON After installing the Complete Strut Assemblies with Coil Springs and car on the ground, you can adjust the Spring Preload and Spring Height. Adjust the Spring Height to your preference. Double check Wheel to Body Clearance by testing the suspension under various road conditions. Exhaust System Modifications- I raise the Dual Exhaust Pipes for extra clearance(Speed Bumps, etc), REAR EXHAUST PIPES also, had to widen to accommodate the Wider 8.8 FORD DIFFERETIAL. Rear View of Exhaust System .

shroud complete and ready to go~!

My new speaker pods arrived, and I wired up my Spal fans and shroud from Galgo today! Need some more speaker wire that I'll pick up tomorrow. Fans work really well. Have them set to turn on at 185 and off at 175 in megasquirt.

It seems like the posts here are fairly old and there are more options and all have now updated speed feedback usually via GPS or some other means to make everything automatic. There are a few other power steering options, two good electric and one more high end hydraulic more customizable and for show: https://zpowersteering.com/ I think this seems to be what many are say is one of the better ones out there that has evolved and the level regulates by the speed of the car so no knobs needed but this and the other electric I believe can be adjusted. ZPS uses a much smarter solution. Our proprietary system continuously senses and measures the torque differential between two inputs: Your hands on the wheel, and the tires on the ground. When there is a disparity between these values, our system instantaneously applies or subtracts steering assist so it remains constant and linear. It is a “need-based” application of power, rather than being based on an irrelevant value such as vehicle speed. Simply put – When you need it, it’s there. When you don’t, it’s not, just like a hydraulic system. https://www.ezpowersteering.com/car-brands/datsun-en-us/240z-en-us/z-series/ I think this was one of the first ones and has evolved and supposedly Zpowersteering copied their design? https://retrorack.com.au/240z-rack-kit This is cool looking, very customizable, well built if you want hydraulic https://www.silverminemotors.com/products/electric-power-steering-kit-for-240z-260z-280z-datsun-1970-1978-s30?srsltid=AfmBOoo542JU9EXenZ92aEsoDikk3hWuIf06n2-OgBn6SwUdxCeLvKvq I have this on my wife's 240z and it works well. To me it is a little sensitive but when you get used to it, the feel is decent. I have another 240z that I am thinking of trying the Zpowersteering option or the EZpowersteering? Not ready to pull the trigger so if anyone has experience in those compared to the Silvermine, I would love to hear your thoughts? Right now I am leaning towards EZpowersteering?

Have you tried clocking it any? There is an area of the stroke that it won't work in.

Hello, I have installed the Jeep 4.0 I6 Cam Sensor. However, I am not getting a CAM signal on the composite logger. I did verify I was getting 5V, ground and signal to the switch. Jeep 4.0 I6 cam sensor I believe is an open collector hall. So I did jump JP7 on the MS3X board. R32 I turned it anti-clockwise many turns to ensure its all the way. R11 I used the ZC Testpoint, I got 2.41 V by turning it clockwise until it wouldn't go up any higher. I have the tunerstudio set to Toothed wheel, Coil on Plug, MS3X Cam In, Dual wheel with missing tooth. But still no cam signal on the composite logger. I'm going to move forward with starting the engine and breaking it in on the dyno using wasted spark. But I would like to get this sorted out... for others that are running sequential using the Jeep sensor and MS3X... can you please let me know what I may be missing.

Looking through some old reference videos I found one from a couple years ago on carb sync check, throttle response and engine movement with the new at that time Milkfab engine mounts. You could balance a glass of water on the valve cover on idle and rev 😆. I had played with a few configurations and had it pretty dialed at that point, with an emphasis on driveability and response. I'm hoping when it comes back together the response will be even snappier with the more free flowing Protunerz manifold and vband G Series turbo. 20230207_161111.mp4