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HybridZ

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  1. Past hour
  2. FastFloridian
    Got the subframe braces on, seemed simple but ran into some issues. Bolt to the subframe is too long, bottoming out in the brace, I cut the bolt down and used a spacer to help with alignment. Then tightening up to where it connects to tension arm bracket and snapped those bolts. Alignment from where I drilled the holes was off a little and I was over tightening them, ugh. Luckily I had two more bolts. Had to take the tension arm off to get one of the carriage bolts on. But it’s complete now, nice and sturdy.
  3. Today
  4. Zetsaz
    There's a reason I defer to "experts" for most things. You can be relatively knowledgeable about a lot of things, but no one can have truly extensive knowledge of more than just a few things. True expertise and experience just requires so much time and commitment. What engine is that?? Very exciting! After many roadtrips in my car and realizing it is fully a street car, I've been brainstorming going fully the opposite direction as you and focusing on making it more comfortable, even if it means moderate sacrifices to handling.
  5. A to Z
  6. A to Z
    Day 3 EFI install, almost done!
  7. clarkspeed
    Got the sensor figured out. It is idling around 130-140 F. Should be OK. I have to post a video. Sorry but I think this thing sounds bad ass. I have an insert in the exhaust so I dont need earplugs.
  8. madkaw
    So I took my Z to C&C -150 mile round trip. Engine ran strong but not right. Afrs were off between the banks. Thought I had a sync issue but I believe I have an injector issue. One plug looked rich and that was the bank running rich. #4 valve clearance checked and compression test is good. I've swapped injectors around to see if it follows. Weird thing is the AFR,s smooth out under more load-its worse under light throttle. It seems more than what a small butterfly sync issue , but maybe not . Used my new airbox also. It does quiet down the stacks. Speaking of stacks can someone buy me some TTT horns ? lol My 50's look to small in the box
  9. bunkhouse
    My late 70s build had an ignition key, and the door keys fit the hatch.
  10. Yesterday
  11. Mike Mileski
    Z cars came from the factory with two keys. One key was for the ignition and rear hatch and the other was for the doors.
  12. baby_Carlton
    Update: after speaking to Cortex and getting some spindle dimensions from them for CAD mockup, looks like I’ll be using their Radial X spindles. Very exciting stuff, I am a bit weary about using aluminum spindles but the car is a track car and last weighed at ~600# over each front wheel so I think I’ll be alright. Thanks! Excited to share my progress with you guys. I’d eventually like to make my work/design open source and see what more talented suspension engineers can do with it. If I didn’t just buy one of these yesterday I’d offer to trade you a complete kit for one of them KN20 heads XD. A bummer indeed, just another bump in the road! Funny you mention Stock Car blade-swaybars. It’s basically all I’ve been looking at for switching over to that design. Plus the parts are pretty cheap & standardized. Thanks everyone.
  13. jhm started following SLA S30 Front Suspension Conversion
  14. jhm
    Wow, cool stuff. That's a real bummer about the AE kit, considering the investment; but I guess this approach gives you the freedom to go wild and do whatever you want! I like your idea of an adjustable blade-style sway bar...this has been on my to-do list for a couple years, and just haven't gotten around to it. You may want to consider the NASCAR-style mounting, above the engine. Makes the adjustment linkages and hardware a lot easier to engineer and fabricate. Good luck with it!! 👍👍
  15. Derek
    Threads like this make me realize just how ignorant I am when it comes to suspension geometry. I'll stick to castings Great work and welcome back.
  16. RPMS
    What you're missing is that that the Holley lights have two +12v receptacles and one ground receptacle. The stock wiring harness supplies one constant +12v feed and two switched ground feeds. By using a simple wiring adapter you could make it work with either high or low beams, but the stock switch wouldn't work both High and Low beams properly because all it can do is switch ground on and off. If you didn't want to use his method of rewiring the light switch, you'd have to use two relays to supply 12v High and 12v Low to the LED bulbs, and the common terminal would go directly to Ground. Does that make sense?
  17. bajajoas
    bajajoas joined the community
  18. Last week
  19. clarkspeed
    And clutch now finally working as intended. Needed to grind the bolt heads down to 0.200inch to keep from hitting clutch rivets. Now have an overheating problem. But I think it's just a sensor reading wrong. Hopefully easy fix. And a small leak in a water hose fitting. Keep thinking I am almost ready for testing but the hit list keeps getting bigger. More pics coming.
  20. FastFloridian
    Took the day off to work on the car. Got the front suspension almost complete. Was going to do brakes, but I didn’t get the caliper bolts, thought they came in my BBK. Got those ordered, so should get them on next weekend.
  21. TrumpetRhapsody
    At long last I finally got my engine bay fuel lines replumbed. Working around the brake lines in a confined space was an adventure, but things look so much cleaner now. It's to the point I need to pull and paint my valve cover, and start dressing things up. It's been interesting watching my fuel temps. I'm definitely going to spend some time seeing how that affects my tune. I have a bit more dialing in to do on pump gas, then I'll swap to E85 and start cranking up the timing. I also got fed up with seeing my voltage go nuts once my alternator was heat soaked, so I decided to finally upgrade from the 280zx 60a to a Powermaster 7294 100a alternator. I went the route of cutting 1.5" off the front of the factory mount, drilling it most of the way for a 10mm bolt, and tapping the backside so I don't have to use a nut. I was already using a turnbuckle for the adjustment, so I'm running the stock belt. I still see a bit of a voltage drop below 800rpm, so I found a 2.125" pulley I'll swap on when it's not 100* out.
  22. brianZortiz
    THanks for the writeup and agree the headlights look great! I am wondering why you went through heavy modification when you could have just purchased the adapter wiring or am I missing something?
  23. A to Z
    08-21-2025 Day 2 progress pics. Fuel system fully installed and wired up in the rear. Same for engine compartment. One pic you can see I abandoned in place the old fuel lines up in the trans tunnel. You can see the T fitting I installed where the nitrous line can be installed at a future date when I'm ready to melt my engine down. The temp sensor that comes with the Sniper 2 is too large, ONE other company makes one, and it's a very small one, smaller than the size I need to screw in. If I screwed it into a bushing there wouldn't be enough of the probe sticking into the stream of antifreeze to work right, so what I had to do was cut a bushing down on both sides. I tried to thread it on, but it wouldn't budge, so I ground down the threads on the smaller probe and got the bushing (which was now basically a sleeve) to fit over it. I JB Welded it together, and by tomorrow it should be ready to install. Wiring awaits me and some other little do-dad's, and the finish line is within sight. I had to change my air cleaner, as the round one was too high and hitting the hood. No one makes a thin air filter for it.......So I went with the tried and true Edelbrock foam one, and it clears. Here are some pics:
  24. calZ
    This is awesome. We haven't had a good engineering project on here in a while, so this is a good to see.
  25. Weber started following Weber jets??All who live for their triples please read this
  26. Weber
    Disclaimer: I haven't read all 42 pages of this post. However, I have read some posts by what seem to be very knowledgeable folks here. Most of what I've read indicates that the throttle plate adjusting screws shouldn't be used to set the idle (like most carburetors), rather the air bypass screws should be used. I'm very early in my Weber tuning path so I used this from the Redline site. Will someone with experience please comment on this? The car runs OK, no stumbles etc. but probably needs work. on mid to top end. Before I head down that path, I want to be sure the basic idle is set correctly. From the "Redline" site: DCOE Adjustment controls Tuning & Adjustment http://www.redlineweber.com/images/Tech/dcoe_a1.gif 1. Critical! Be sure for initial carburetor set up all air by-pass screws should be in closed position. These are not commonly used in standard carburetor adjustment. 2. Set the idle speed screw at ¼ to ½ turn in after contact with throttle lever. When doing multiple carburetors all linkage should be disconnected. All carbs should be bench adjusted to same setting.
  27. Zetsaz
    After a 2000+mile trip this summer in the Z I'm inclined to agree with this. Part if me is tempted to go back to stock arms on rubber, are at least all poly instead of some of the heim joints on my T3 parts. The performance benefit of some aftermarket arms is marginal at best. That said, the tension rods might be one place where solid almost makes some sense even on a street car because changes will be more noticeable there under braking.
  28. hazesleepgod

    VQ37 300zx Update #2 

     

    Hello all, it’s been a good while since i’ve made any updates towards the build. So after purchasing the CD009 (i’m pretty sure it’s technically a CD1 code…) i’ve been focusing on the teardown of the VQ. I had purchased a low mileage VQ37, from a G-chassis kid, that clearly had been sitting after being oh so delicately ripped out of a G37. Silver lining was an aluminum block, with 93k miles and $900. what he has neglected to tell me was the G-car donor was AWD. Made the odd splined-spindle system in the oil pan make more sense lol. After popping off the oil pan i found maybe 16-18oz of water mixed with the oil. While this would freak any rational petrol-head out, I kinda expected it, due to the top of the engine missing a few coil packs/spark plugs, and being turned over multiple times to check for seizing. So a simple flush of the engine after a thorough inspection of the bottom end should be just fine. All gaskets are getting replaced and heads are already getting resurfaced. The engine is still awaiting removal from the Z31. I just recently was able to get the intercooler system removed, which for some 80’s Japanese-Technology reason is fully attatched to my pre-freon A/C system. A few questions that have stumped me lately, are the input shaft from the transmission (might be completely wrong term) going into the crankcase, are the splines going to fit correctly, or when i mate the transmission to the engine will it be a case of “square peg, round hole?” 

     

    Progress has been put on the back burner for the time being, as i’ve acquired another project. I’ve been getting into motorcycles a lot more lately with my father, so next to my ‘98 Buell Thunderbolt, I have purchased my dream project, in a 1989 Honda VTR250 Interceptor in Taco Bell colorway. So my time has been dedicated to getting that little sucker running and driving, then lock myself in my garage for the (hopefully snowy) iowa winter.

     

    Rhanks for reading, if you have any advice or input of any of the above please feel free to reach out! Thanks again

     

    Hazy

  29. zboi
    To add bushings to the front mount (they did add that) To properly bush the diff mount (not done) To change the brace so it fits in a 240z without smashing the spare tire(not done) Then a number of things about suspension optimisation such as what was posted in this thread.
  30. baby_Carlton
    Not dumb at all, though I definitely prefer rubber bushings over poly & solid in a street car even if its tracked 1-3 times/year.
  31. baby_Carlton
    Small update, I've moved to a new thread on designing my own front SLA suspension. Regarding the OTS kit from AE, its nice, the tubular front cross member is perhaps the best of its kind on the market. Part of me wishes they used slot-nuts instead of their current configuration but its not a huge deal. Interesting, sorry to hear. I find their rear suspension pretty well designed, the rocker ratio is 1:1 which is not great but nothing you can't fix by making your own. Though for $4000, I feel it should've been disclosed at the very least. Their new packaging system for hardware is great, though their shipping packaging is quite bad. Their customer support offered to replace some parts that were damaged in shipping, need to follow up to check what the ETA on those RMA'd part is. Regards to you giving them feedback, not surprising. I've also tried starting a technical discussion with them that they didn't seem super interested in, understandable they're running a business and are more concerned with keeping the doors open than answering questions from a guy that already paid them lol. These guys are developing kits for a bunch of Datsun/NIssan chassis, and now the E36 chassis so I doubt they have a lot of time for guys like us.
  32. brianZortiz
    Oh, I think I figured it out. I do need a 3 wire bulb on the inner upper bulb to make the top two lights as brake lights. Per my first picture the 3rd wire on inner upper would be G which is shared with outer upper and outer lower, this is how early 240z's are. I need to snip top two G wires and run that to the brake output wire which I changed to GY on the picture which is Green / Yellow the color of brake switch output wire. Should look like this to make it work:
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