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How much body work is involved to make that fit?

No, checked my wires and changed my plugs today. I haven't installed that DIY CAS wheel from diyautotune, maybe there's too much noise. Not sure, it's hard to find what the issue might be since I have no idea about TunerStudio settings. I imported tried a few maps from the pinned thread, but none worked. Although, none of them were really set up for the dizzy, single coil setup, so I had to change all the timing and advance stuff for my setup, which very well could be wrong. Should my trigger angle match my timing mark on the engine? I'm a bit confused what that is and what the ignition offset is. I can see my engine is at the timing mark 10 while cranking. I have both my ignition offset and trigger angle at 90 I believe.

Any chance that you have the plug wires installed in backward rotation? That would give proper timing on #1 but the others would be off. Although, I have started an engine with the plug wires that way. It ran terribly. Here's your old thread with the msq file.

I decided to make a new post, as my new issues do not relate to my other topic. 78 280z turbo conversion, 82 dizzy. I have spark. Set the engine to tdc when dizzy was installed, and turned it back to ~55 BTDC. When cranking, timing shows at 10 with timing gun. Car will sputter and wants to start on ether. I think either my timing is wrong, or my fuel settings aren't any good. The timing talk of posts about megasquirt are all confusing. I've read conflicting information about setting the car the TDC, turning it ~55 BTDC, and also setting it at 20 BTDC. Not sure what I'm supposed to do. Trigger angle has been set to 90 degrees, not 65 like the msq says. If you guys could check out my msq and let me know where I'm being an idiot now, I would greatly appreciate it. DG280zTune.msq

Good news, replacing the transistor solved my spark issue. The car wants to start, but is very lean. A new issue I am having is with my AFR's. My AEM 30-0300 gauge is reading at around 15 AFR, meanwhile, in tunerstudio, it reads 19. I have my wideband in tunerstudio set to AEM 30-3xx, but it will not read the same values. Should I change required fuel or my fuel tables to incorporate more fuel, and how should I try to solve my afr issue? I tried inputting custom linear wideband values, and that helped bring down tunerstudio's values, but that is pretty ghetto, and still wasn't synced to my AEM gauge. I have tried both ground the gauge to the ECU ground and it's own ground, same issue. DG280zTune.msq

2eighTZ4me, I have sent you a private message.

I dont want any filler, so I fit each part perfectly with a butt joint, dolly it out where possible, then grind it flat and smooth for an original fit. before any welding I prime all parts on the back side and pinch points with weld-thru primer the arc and inner rocker are new in this picture then the rear of the rocker, putting back the spot welds in the OEM position Some more primer to look super clean and blend in tot he original rocker which was perfect everywhere else Finally fit the outer skin and tig it in small steps so no warping Some more smoothing of the welds and original spotweld locations used Just a small skim coat of filler on the upper weld seem, but making sure to leave all the factory spot welds to show through the paint. Other side is the same, so on to the front fender next

Been busy working on the body of the NA car. Overall in really good original paint condition. But of course the common areas still need to be replaces even in a low mile California car. So I got busy cutting and welding. The KF parts are really nice but I only want to replace as much metal as trulely needed, so instead of just replacing the entire part, I grafted in what I need to keep it as original as possible. Here are some pics of the first dogleg What is hiding inside you ask Surprise cut it all out start fitting rebuilding from the inside out as how it was originally done Blast it all clean and start TIG welding

JLuis - I'd like a set please. How many sets do you have left?

I had some time in the laser today so i decided to make new mounts for my seats😀. More on this later as they have no priority and are" a bit " of neerd warning. As the engine is 6.2 litre why not make it a 620Z😎

converting to electrical power steering for Prius

I have already started and pulled the motor and trans out.

04-16-2024 UPDATE: Took the day and started with getting the Water Temp gauge working.......great feeling, had to dig back though the wiring to find the right wire and test it....really glad it's fixed.....I am noticing since I fixed my gas tank, that it is reading full when I poured 1/2 tank back in it.....and when I turn it off, the gauge doesn't fall completely back to E. I hope it will striaghten itself out once I get it out driving it around and fill it up for another leak test. I repalced the in tank sensor and it was worrking great....hmmmm. I ordered a repalcement clock from Ron at ZClocks. Upgraded to the Quartz and I am having him remove the green light filter, as I am using white LED bulbs. I also received the tires for my new 17" rims that are coming. I went with the Riken Raptor tires 225/245 45ZR17 size. They were on sale at Tire Rack, and they are a ZR rated all season.....I only drive on nice sunny days, but they will work. Less than $100/tire! Free shipping too! I jumped on my rear drum brakes, adjusted them to where the tire spins 1/2 turn or a bit less.....so they're right on, and so far, parking brake looks to be good as well. STRONG pedal feel. I rebuilt them completely a while back, but never did the adjustment...no wonder they didn't work! Torqued the wheels back on and then I noticed all of a sudden a really loud clacking sound while idling. Turns out 2 valves worked loose! All better now. Added some of my Walmart oil.....this is really good oil! Also finally got my Rising Sun stickers, put them right where I want them. Here are some pics. To view Video, click on "Facebook" below and scroll to the end of the pictures. (4) Facebook V1.MOV

VINTAGE CARBON Pre-order Opportunity - NEW S30 CARBON FIBER FRONT GRILL! We have been cooking here at Vintage Carbon! We are going to be coming out with an ALL NEW Carbon Fiber S30 Grill! To our knowledge, this will be the First Ever Carbon Fiber Grill made for the Datsun S30 Platform! We are going to incorporate the Thick Outer Border similar to the Fairlady 432 Style Grille, while keeping the OEM "V" shape and OEM style straight across Slats all made completely of Carbon Fiber!! The slats will be thicker so you can really see the Carbon Weave from the front. We are also going to extend the overall height about 3 inches to make sure it covers as much as possible with a front air dam installed. We are going to ensure the vents are spaced equal to OEM so air flow will not be affected. It will be different from anything out there, more aggressive yet reminiscent of OEM but made of Carbon Fiber right here in So Cal, USA!! These will really add style to any S30 Z Front End!! What do you guys think? We will be accepting pre-orders for a heavy discount off Retail cost for the first 10 people. Contact me if interested! Message me or Email me at andrew@zociety.org ! We are currently working on a high quality render as we speak! Hoping to have that ready by the end of this week.

Nice-looking piece. Can I suggest you move your post to the Vendors' Forum? https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/27-vendors-forum/ Thank you.

VINTAGE CARBON Pre-order Opportunity - NEW S30 CARBON FIBER FRONT GRILL! We have been cooking here at Vintage Carbon! We are going to be coming out with an ALL NEW Carbon Fiber S30 Grill! To our knowledge, this will be the First Ever Carbon Fiber Grill made for the Datsun S30 Platform! We are going to incorporate the Thick Outer Border similar to the Fairlady 432 Style Grille, while keeping the OEM "V" shape and OEM style straight across Slats all made completely of Carbon Fiber!! The slats will be thicker so you can really see the Carbon Weave from the front. We are also going to extend the overall height about 3 inches to make sure it covers as much as possible with a front air dam installed. We are going to ensure the vents are spaced equal to OEM so air flow will not be affected. It will be different from anything out there, more aggressive yet reminiscent of OEM but made of Carbon Fiber right here in So Cal, USA!! These will really add style to any S30 Z Front End!! What do you guys think? We will be accepting pre-orders for a heavy discount off Retail cost for the first 10 people. Contact me if interested! Message me or Email me at andrew@zociety.org ! We are currently working on a high quality render as we speak! Hoping to have that ready by the end of this week.

Found this on my phone 😀. It is a start up video to check that everything works before i drop it in the car.

Hi forum, I have z300 1989 with rb25det,I decided to swap 2jz. Found 2jzGE full built.

04-13-2024 UPDATE: So ordered the parts I needed to redo the hoses on the gas tank as well as a new filler neck, and decided to just get it over with and do it today. Very straight forward, but yes it is messy, and when I was letting the fuel drain, I walked away for a bit and came back to my 5 gal bucket overflowing! I blocked off the small port above the lines that feed and return from the carbs, and the driver's side port with copper plumbing caps....3/8 and 1/4. They did NOT fit right on, I had to use the dremel and open them up and then hammer them on. I then used the JB Weld to totally encapsulate them so I will NEVER have to do this again! I removed the carbon canister EPA "bag" and then removed all the hoses attached to it. I referred myself to the Z car Page that explained how to do that and used that as a guide (https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fzhome.com%2FRacing%2FFuelTankVaporLineMod%2FFuelTankVaporMod.htm%3Ffbclid%3DIwAR1CRB-K9MEA7BV-iDKRUhF4DIav92s3URvoLfdtm9JEXMoIZa1B12t_VUQ_aem_AYERpFuuWLmDxBWQcg6kDWB5XCyqV31fHhOPXT6lckUUhZyFHzoDsib2tLU11S3eWpEyR8tA5bH2sI_tP6vtGH7N&h=AT1WDx-JsAgk_WyvqIG7dCggOKAEPMcOvU_rP9QO-rEmKJK2ttY50DvJ6-PCI_GWdrjapjaidJhw8LLWxfHl0wpTPLTBeSv8v9P16mBjFCk_W4FHKLVVYJ9ZWtcunQHfdAsA&__tn__=-UK-R&c[0]=AT3tY1wiGHPTWcClhUVohf1JdT9khcNxdIdrsxpRoIL3t22WbWZubTvra0juI7yEygG6OuLpD2kD9_E58MH_ZoetYU0UwBJvIya4nNlS8FwJWwdzxBT8iXdGx4suCF0u1kPcBtxCaurzIpo_D2feerY8kllMHgmoV9WhYbKD6GQMLnrAhny1OPM_UQ24ffyXHQZUxL-GAzQkhUn1euANohA ). I got everything hooked up as instructed and closed it all up. I then poured the gas back in and no problems. Started the Z and let it run for a bit, and again, no leaks. It will now sit and let the fittings, or rather the BJ weld on the fittings dry up. After this, I decided to fix my seating situation in the car once and for all. I have thought of all the different things I could do to give me more room, and finally decided to cut out the lower cross bar on the rollbar. It is for looks anyway, and although I didn't want to do it, I decided that it IS my car after all, and I mod everything anyway, so I modded the rollbar. Cut and vacuumed it up and now the seat position is GREAT, but I need some foam on the rollbar angled bar as my head is against it. I have provided some pics and 2 video's at the end of the pictures. Click on Facebook below "videos" below and go to the end of those pics to see the videos. Cheers! For videos click on "facebook" below and go to the end of the pics, 2 videos in all. Facebook Facebook

The board looks to be in great condition, and no visible issues or smells are apparent. Also, because the fuel circuit and everything else works, I would like to assume the board is ok, but I know I cannot rule it out. I tested the chip, and get a reading of 1352 from the emitter side (I think), and 0.02 from the collector side. I would assume this drop would indicate and issue with the chip. Thank you for teaching me NewZed and following along. I really appreciate the help. Hoping the new chip coming in the next day or two will solve this weird issue. Wish something would just drop in and work from time to time. I guess that's the pleasure of working on these rust buckets.

The power to the chip would come through the trace on the board. It's hard on the eyes but you can follow the trace back to its source. You might find a burn mark or a cut. The board might not be ruined if you find something. People repair circuit boards. If you put the board together yourself then the odds of a wrong/bad solder are higher, I'd guess. I'd go back and check my work. By the way, you can buy inexpensive transistor testers. No idea which are good or not. Even Harbor Freight's cheapo multimeter has one. Really though, if there's no power on the board trace even a good transistor won't work right. Not an expert... Just for fun - https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/7-function-digital-multimeter-59434.html

I was just using a multimeter. Yes, I used the left leg, which is circuited to the IGNIN, which is jumped to the JS10 port. I could very well be completely wrong in measuring it that way. I've been trying to do reading, but cannot really find any forums posts across here, DIYauto, and MS forums pertaining to measuring or testing BIP chips. I know it's probably not a great way to find info on specific board upgrades, but I just threw my problems into chatGPT and according to that, it should get voltage, maybe not during key on, but definitely when cranking, as that is when it signals the coil to fire. I think I might have short circuited the chip when trying to start it over the past few days, but it could have come from GRW defective, not sure. The fuel circuit works fine, and the injectors all trigger when using the tester in TunerStudio. That's why I'm leaning towards a chip issue rather than the board being fried. Maybe buying the DIY and saving $600 over the PnP kit from GRW wasn't worth it. Side rant on Godzilla RW, I'm not very happy with them or their products. I wouldn't buy the relay board from them, they upcharge quiet a bit. You can buy the same TunerMods relay box WITH the wiring harness premade for $60 vs their $100 box with NO harness and crappy tab style connectors. Also, they pointed me to DIYAuto's tech support when I reached out about the BIP chip not firing off. It could very well have come from them bad. DIYAuto responded to me and said because GRW does the modding for the single coil when you buy it from them, DIY cannot help with tech support. I have also had emails go unanswered, and it took over 3 weeks for them to ship my harness in the first place because somehow it got "lost in translation" with their shipping manager.

How are you measuring power at the transistor? Are you probing the board? Did you pick the correct pin? You're in to electronics world now. Here's a couple of links that might help. I've never been in to a Megasquirt board I'm just commenting based on the basics. Maybe you'll see something in the diagram. There's a fuse or two but it seems like the whole unit would be down if it blew. Maybe the BIP373 is damaged, although they say it's very durable in the link I gave above. But in their chip upgrade, linked below, they call it "infamous". Who knows, their description above and the link below are kind of contradictory. Good luck. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/grounds/ https://www.diyautotune.com/product/coil-driver-kit/

BIP chip is not getting power at key on, and therefore, not triggering the spark signal. What gives the chip power before JS10? I want to trace the circuit back to find the voltage break.

Hello, Slow progress this week............ Got the Corvette radiator and fan and ordered som sheet metal to make some brackets. Also started to wrap the primary tubes on the headers, not fun the stainless zip ties are hard to get tight enough even with a proper tool.