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Got everything tuned up a few months back, the car runs great, the power feels like its strongly in the 300s, but I can see that the cylinder head is holding the motor back. Quite sure there is detonation, as my computer keeps thinking there is, and the power is not really increasing at all above about 14psi. I think I will add a flex fuel sensor and try adding some e30 or something. I don't have enough injector to go very high on the ethanol content. Then again, it is quick enough as is. All in all I'm pretty impressed in how much this motor woke up with this setup, the turbo spools so quick that even off idle it feels like a much bigger motor.

Thx. I will check out classic. No chance on original engine her father had the car for some 20 years and he got it that way.

Yeah, I've never been a huge fan of 4 cylinders in a S30. It's one of those "sure, it's okay for you, but it's not for me" kind of things. But the K series is definitely more interesting the more I learn about it. My trans I picked up is definitely an AP1, and I'm aware they're slightly less desirable than the AP2, I haven't found any good indication that they're weaker. (note the 'AP1' as the 4-6 characters) AP1 bellhousing with internal slave cylinder conversion (will likely try to source parts to convert back to external slave) As for placement, yes it's a long transmission, but the design would lend itself decently well to modification if necessary, as the shift rod is of a single rod design and already travels a long distance to the interface with the forks. That said, it's looking like it will work "as is" for at least a first iteration: The engine might sit further back than this, but probably not much. Which puts the shifter here: If I put the tranmission back to where that shifter is just touching the back edge, then the bellhousing face is definitely behind the plane of the firewall. So I think it'll work without fuss. And for those playing at home: AP1 Net ratios (has internal reduction) 3.634 2.372 1.718 1.347 1.126 0.941 AP2 Net ratios (same 1-4 but different 5-6 and reduction gears) 3.785 2.470 1.789 1.402 1.139 0.922 And with a 3.545 R200 on 23.85" tall wheels: AP1 AP2 You can see that 6th in particular sits quite a bit further out, increasing overall spread of the AP2, but the added reduction makes 1-4 end quite a bit sooner, while giving relatively identical RPM drops as the AP1. The AP1 by contrast, gives you slightly longer legs 1-4 but 5th and 6th stay a bit tighter with smaller RPM drops as compared to the AP2 for 5th and 6th. Either way, the fact both transmissions have internal gear reduction and yet are geared surprisingly narrow, makes this a good fit for a higher revving engine in a chassis that isn't running super high ratio differentials. In a perfect world I think I'd still opt for at least a 3.7 diff, if not maybe as high as a 4.10, but let's compare this to something like the CD009. CD009 Notice that the RPM drops between gears are much larger, and the overall spread is much wider. This would certainly work well for a VQ which has a much broader torque range and falls off a bit on the top end, yielding a wider HP curve. But for a K24 where you want to stay up on VTEC to have fun, the CD009 trans would suit something like a 4.44 final ratio much better. The BRZ/FRS transmission for reference, has a pretty sizable drop 1-2, but stays decently tight 2-5 and a big drop into 6th which is fantastic if you want to run a super high ratio diff but still want a good highway cruise RPM. BRZ/FRS Now, another common option for K series transmissions would be the BMW E30/E36/46 transmissions, so we might as well add those to the comparisons (since I have dozens of these transmission ratios saved anyway). The BMW 6 speed: The BMW (E30) 5 speed: The BMW (E36) 5 speed: The BMW E46 also had a 5 speed option for a bit, and is relatively close/similar to the E36 5 speed. The ZF 5 speeds all end with a 1:1 5th gear, which ends up being pretty awkward so the better suited option would be the ZF 6 speed, but even that one has an awkward "rising" spread shift, or gets tighter and tighter. This might be good for a lot of driving situations, but my goal is making a car that's fun on the street, as well as fun doing HPDE/Autox events. I want as narrow of a spready as I can get 1-3 if not as narrow as possible 1-4. To that end, the AP1 or AP2 are both stand out options. Also, just because, here's the AR5 Would suit a V8 torque range nicely... Shifting a 6500 drops you to 3900, 4300, 4300, 4700 rpms. Very wide 5 speed, with decently spaced gears, though maybe a slightly close 1-2 shift. Not so idea for something super high revving, but I can see why a lot of LS people use it.

Wow, quite the shakeup Nate! Is that an AP1 or an AP2 box? They've got different ratios and synchros. I think the S2k box is longer than the Nissan, curious where the engine will sit when the shifter is situated. While I'm not a proponent of 4-cylinders in Z's, the K20/S2k box is a sweet drivetrain combo. I've got a spare AP2 S2k motor/gearbox/ECU/wiring harness drop-in that I'm still trying to figure out what to do with it... my best idea so far is to drop it into a Merc 190E to make a faux 190E Evo. This idea is however is purely in my dreams, as I have no time for any of this . I commend your efforts! AP2 box is on the left, there's extra ribbing around the countershaft boss. Pic is from Billman250 of s2ki: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/ap1-tranny-vs-ap2-tranny-931368/page2/

I used this stuff on mine about 10 years ago. The areas I patched still look great, only problem is the rest of the foam is 50 years old, so it eventually cracks in new and exciting places. If you're able to, get a dash from Hong Vu or one of the other ones supplying it so you don't have to go through pulling the dash again.

fully manual

Well it works. But the firewall flexes too much, next I will try to mount to the pedal box which doesn’t flex at all. I also want to keep the arm movement on the same plane. Currently actuator is up and down and bell crank is left to right. IMG_2655.mov

Those AFRs are both way off. Most of what your saying makes no sense, and if you don't see that yet you really need to read more of the docs of tuning and megasquirt. I'm pretty sure your just way off with your megasquirt tables.

A couple updates here. On Rayapp2's 81 slicktop turbo, I was able to decode and map out the 1981 turbo ECUs, those definitions are now available. The big thing here is he swapped to 60lb injectors and I successfully recoded the stock ECU for correct fueling. Found the new K value and rescaled the TP load scales and its happy. That car has further running issues that need to be solved, including the o2 swinging way more than my car does during closed loop, but the coding did its part. During this process I found a couple issues with what I was doing before, the rom chips I was using, ect. On my car I found the limits of fueling reliability on the stock AFM, which is about 200whp using virtual dyno to measure so probably inaccurate, but it should be within 10% of a real number. The boost on my car is back down to stock until I finalize a solution to make the fueling reliable. Moates has gone out of business, so my ostrich emulator is now unsupported and all the documentation is gone which is annoying. I was able to get Tunerpro working with emulation without offsetting the files, so everything gets a little easier there. Exactly how far can we go with this system? I have an idea, but its a couple months away from being fully tested.

I'll be honest I was confused when I got an update from PayPal earlier. Thanks again for all the effort.

Thanks Ryan! Puyallup eh. My wife has relatives there! Been to the county fair there once. Huge cool event!

Thank you! Excited to wear it out to Cars and Coffee next week hopefully!

Amazing work! I definitely don't have the time and patience for this, at least not now, but maybe give it a decade or two when the kids are older and hopefully work is not so consuming. Reminds me of the absolutely entrancing my mechanics 240Z resto videos on YT. I salute the people who have taken the time to get this good at metalwork.

Thanks for the update!

Hello, You have done some great job👍, i have just started the journey. /Christian

Then on to the front fender, Inner and lower. Another KF Fab part fitted in and TIG welded Cleaned up the weld beads and spot welded it back to the lower fender return Same deal on the lower fender. lots of small tack welds to keep it fron warping and small welds. I kept the original lower flange of the fender so the fit would not change. It cleaned up nicely with some blasting, and will keep the original fit and look of the fender For TIG the metal needs to be perfectly clean forpretty welds, but the overlap of the inner fender made this difficult, but they will look fine when ground back. A grinder, a file and a shrinking disk got it straight. A skim coat of filler will probably be needed to make it perfect as I cant get behing the repair to dolly it out perfect. The Hatch slam is up next

Here are pics of the front rocker panel and front fender work. All the same concept of only removing what was necessay and trying to keep it as original as possible with little to no filler. All original paint and never worked. Looks pretty good Whats hidden After blating with crushed glass Cut out the old, you can see the inside of the rocker was perfect and clean. the rust comes from the overlap of the inner fender and the front rocker. The cowl drain dumps back here and it just fills with wet dirt I bought a KF Fab full rocker and only used the small pc to repalce the area. The fit is really good on these parts TIG welded it back in. Carefully only 1/4" at a time jumping around with an air quench. Some quick grinding of the weld bead and it blends in perfect so it doesnt even look repaired.

Spent today packing up orders and only 5 outstanding. Looking forward to wrapping these all up once I work through the technical issues on these ones. 1. 7d2jz 2. MAG58 - PAID - SHIPPED 3. MAG58 - PAID- SHIPPED 4. Crespo79 - PAID- SHIPPED 5. Jeffrox - PAID- SHIPPED 6. jhm - PAID- SHIPPED 7. onthego- - PAID- SHIPPED 8. onthego- - PAID- SHIPPED 9. pepper - PAID- SHIPPED 10. pepper - PAID- SHIPPED 11. ModernS30 - PAID- SHIPPED 12. Masonvonritchie - PAID- SHIPPED 13. rxx2rxx2 - PAID- SHIPPED 14. rxx2rxx2 - PAID- SHIPPED 15. Sonethirty - PAID- SHIPPED 16. S30TRBO - PAID- SHIPPED 17. S30TRBO - PAID- SHIPPED 18. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 19. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 20. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 21. ElliottOhZ - PAID- SHIPPED 22. Oki570Z - PAID- SHIPPED 23. lowrider - PAID 24. lowrider - PAID 25. lowrider - PAID 26. jnjdragracing - PAID- SHIPPED 27. jnjdragracing - PAID- SHIPPED 28. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID 29. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID 30. JonRHD - PAID- SHIPPED 31. JonRHD - PAID- SHIPPED 32. 75280z - PAID- SHIPPED 33. 75280z - PAID- SHIPPED 34. CalZ - PAID 35. CalZ - PAID 36. LanceVance - PAID- SHIPPED 37. LanceVance - PAID- SHIPPED 38. Stunt 39. Stunt 40. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID- SHIPPED 41. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID- SHIPPED 42. 1 tuff z - PAID- SHIPPED 43. 1 tuff z - PAID- SHIPPED 44. Zlost - PAID- SHIPPED 45. AydinZ71 - PAID- SHIPPED 46. AydinZ71 - PAID- SHIPPED 47. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 48. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 49. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 50. airbrush-ed 51. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID- SHIPPED 52. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID- SHIPPED 53. evildky - PAID- SHIPPED 54. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 55. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 56. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 57. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 58. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 59. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 60. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 61. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 62. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 63. bkz72 - PAID- SHIPPED 64. Wizzurp - PAID- SHIPPED 65. Wizzurp - PAID- SHIPPED 66. Leon - PAID- SHIPPED 67. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 68. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 69. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 70. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 71. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 72. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 73. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 74. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 75. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 76. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 77. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 78. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 79. Zetsaz - PAID 80. Zetsaz - PAID 81. Zetsaz - PAID 82. Wedge 83. 24Oz - PAID 84. ihavearustedz - PAID- SHIPPED 85. clarkspeed - PAID- SHIPPED 86. niner11 - PAID- SHIPPED 87. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 88. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 89. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 90. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED

Looks like a 1975 - 1977 280Z engine. The N42 head and block. A common engine swap, all of the L24 parts fit. Any chance the original L24 is still around, back in the weeds somewhere? It might add value. Not to send you away from Hybridz but classiczcars.com is a better fit for that car and what you're doing.

I know this post is really old but I'm trying to see if a business is still around. It's Cooks Body Shop, 338 w plan (or pelon?), Orange CA. I have a postcard sent to this place, in 1948.

Something is controlling the fuel pump when it shouldn't, it is still cutting out here and there. I do have a pressure sensor in my bay, so I might have to run it to where I can see in the car. I also need to have the laptop in my lap to see if the whole megasquirt is going down during the pump cut. Maybe there's another issue with my ecu itself. It randomly cuts for a second it seems on deceleration (both with clutch in and out), and doesn't like when I get on it after slowing and coming out a corner. Other than that, it runs fine. Idle AFR is around 12, 3200 rpm afr is around 10.5. Running a bit rich, maybe that has something to do with the pump cutting out. Going to have to scour megasquirt settings to see if anything is enabled that shouldn't be. I loaded Cryngus' tune awhile ago and have tuned to where I am since then, so maybe he had something that I shouldn't have for my setup. Going to try to make it to Carlisle import show here in PA next weekend, praying it's not an ecu internal issue.

I just ran across this, I can't believe it's been this long. Still love the Z. The only thing I have done to it in the past several years was recovering the Miata seats with upholstery from lseat.com. is this site still active?

You sure that is controlling the fuel pump? I would expect it to control the injector instead. Typically the ECU will just command the pump on and off. I've only seen pump duty cycle controlled on really advanced setups. Do you have a fuel pressure sensor somewhere to monitor? Also DFCO shouldn't be used at all with a manual transmission, unless again you have a sophisticated system that can tell what gear the transmission is in.

My wife's father gave her a datsun 240z(1971) I kind of inherited it but its been sitting for some probably 30 years. I have since started to trying to restore it. Here is my question, the engine in it is a L28 which is obviously not original could anyone tell me what I have.

Something fun I have been working on! I really want drive by wire on my 240z. But figuring out a location for the actuator has been tough to say the least. I don’t want it hanging over the intake. This is a 100% bolt in adapter featuring a BMW 6 cylinder actuator and a 350z pedal. This will attach to stock linkage and drive my ITBs. Hopefully it works! The pivot arcs a far bit, so that might not work and the pedal mount might flex too much? Time will tell. This would allow me modern cold starts, any sort of progressive pedal movement I could want. Full idle control, traction control, valet mode, cruise control and way easier tuning. We 3D scanned the pedal area and the actuator to mock it all up in CAD! All of this is 5axis cut out of 6061. IMG_2641.mov