Brad-ManQ45

Gabe: For sheer top end performance, I'd say the T61, but I believe that for road and track use the best of the non ball bearing units would be the TO4E 60 Trim. Imagine that eloongated "S" going from bottom left to the max on the squirrel site running either right through or right alongside the highest efficiency island on the map for it - we're talking area under the curve man! It looks like it would beat the 50 trim easily...

I don't think so - he HAS to turn the CHRA upside down to swap ends around....

Someone here once asked the question of how to take the carbeurator off his engine. I simply answered that if he couldn't look at it and see what needed to be done, perhaps he should have somebody else do it.... I didn't want to be mean or nasty, but come on, on a non fuelie engine, everything is right out in front of you and not much is a mystery....

Both Miller and Hobart are made in the same factory. Millers gennerally have copper wound transformers whereas Hobarts have aluminum windingas. A few other things are done with Millers that make them better for duty cycle and longevity, such as metal casings and better rollers etc. Not much difference in price, but I went for an MM175 back in 2001 and haven't looked back. Hobarts are good machines also. I just feel that Miller/Hobart gives better customer service to us little guys than Licoln does, based on all the research I did before my purchase. HTP makes a good MIG too. The only advice I can give to someone buying a MIG that will withstand manufacturers' preference issues is that go with a 220 volt unit and not a 120. The difference in duty cycle and capability is far more than the small increase in price. At current levels we're talking 140 vs 180 as compare to 135 vs 175 when I got mine.... TRUST me - the small amount of difference in price makes a HUGE difference in capability and enjoyment. I went so far as to get a permit to add a 220 volt circuit to my garage (and at the same time a couple more circuits in my basement for my woodshop) and haven't looked back.

I'm with you = I love that color....

What kinda gears do you want to run? AFAIK, the R200 S/B stronger w/the same ratios - if you want to run lower numerical I get it. I've heard a lot about the 8.8 IRS diffs breaking with more power applied to them - not so much with the R200...

The problem appears to be back...

Guys: Glad to see you had a rod problem, but it definitely wasn't because of a 240 rod - it's LONGER than the 280...

I believe that you are running up against the "hard coded" or "open loop" table values for fuel/vs rpm/boost. At close to 10 psi, 4500 rpm is about where the engine starts going lean on fuel. Get a MS or Wolf or SDS system and pick up a lot of low speed driveability and better fuel economy once tuned.

The input shaft is what goes into the clutch, the output shaft is for the driveshaft. I suppose someone could come up w/a hybrid clutch that could mate a Ford or Chevy WCT5 in the Nissan bellhousing to the Datsun flywheel utilizing the Datsun Hydraulics to actuate, but why bother...

I'm 5'11 and 245 lbs and use 6 ton stands and have no problem - 'course I generally don't use a creeper...

Bedliner is itself a dampner,and yes you can lay of=ther sound mats on it. I am using bedliner in my wheel wells over Zero Rust on my '83ZXT, whihc I have finished replacing half the firewall and inner fender panel and battery tray on due to rust.

Match the AR for the exhaust and the trim of the turbine to the rev range of the cam. Stock cam needs to keep stock/clipped at most Stage 3 turbine and stock AR. Bigger cams, moving powerband up the rev range would require larger (more open/larger outlet/higher trim # - Stage 3 or 5) and possibly larger AR housing.

I don't think that 110 degree LCA is good - better go 114.

Different input shafts for sure between all the T5's by manufacturer, as well as bellhousings. The Nissan T5 was not a WC T5. It is my understanding that you can have a Nissan T5 built to WC specs tho'. This discussion better in the drivetrain forum as it is not S130 specific...

If it's the S trim, ypu'll be a bit better than the stock turbo. I have a T3/T4 S-3 trim on my ZXT. That .81 exhaust housing will kill your low end, and the S trim compressor housing will limit your top end.

The fact that it won't rev over ~2200 rpm indicates TPS got wet. No big deal to check the dizzy cap tho'

A buddy of mine removed his '82ZXT windshield and TTops as part of a total paint job and had to weld in some patches in the windshield channels. He knew there was some rust, but not so much! My '83ZXT has some rust bubbling above the WS, so I am going to remove it and fix what I need to as part of a total paint job also.

Except that your tires will rub the wheelwells...with coilovers you want positive offset.

There were problems with the early 700R4's. Unless you are going to go through it and replace everything, get aq later year...Like late 80's or early 90's...

Quick - somebody take John to the doctor/asylum - he wants Sh*t from everybody! I think we may have a major meltdown in progress!

I got mine from Roger at ZBarn - molded cut pile - like it!

I can see Pat Benetar, but don't forget Joan Jett - tough decision.... And my vote for best mouth nto watch while she sings is Sheryl Crow.

Has Nissan done what they did with the Q45 engine in '94 and upgraded the replacement/stock chain guides to cermaic coated metal instead of the crummy plastic guides for the KA's. I had to replace those damn things twice in 100K and the second time traded the POS Stanzain on a Town Car.

In the past two weeks I have had to check the little box saying I agree to abide by the rules twice now when trying to reply to a post. Same computer - is it still the same site? WTF is going on?