Brad-ManQ45

There were problems with the early 700R4's. Unless you are going to go through it and replace everything, get aq later year...Like late 80's or early 90's...

Quick - somebody take John to the doctor/asylum - he wants Sh*t from everybody! I think we may have a major meltdown in progress!

I got mine from Roger at ZBarn - molded cut pile - like it!

I can see Pat Benetar, but don't forget Joan Jett - tough decision.... And my vote for best mouth nto watch while she sings is Sheryl Crow.

Has Nissan done what they did with the Q45 engine in '94 and upgraded the replacement/stock chain guides to cermaic coated metal instead of the crummy plastic guides for the KA's. I had to replace those damn things twice in 100K and the second time traded the POS Stanzain on a Town Car.

In the past two weeks I have had to check the little box saying I agree to abide by the rules twice now when trying to reply to a post. Same computer - is it still the same site? WTF is going on?

If your doors line up properly now, take 'em out and put x braces in the openings and seam weld away! Yoy can even cross brace between the cross braces to box the cabin section. Not much needed - spot welds and a bit of metal - easy to remove - little time. Save you a bunch of griping when on your back welding and probably on total time.

Are you sure the TPS connection is not wet? This is a classic symptom...

Probably would have to mill - flattops would give ~8.3 to 8.5...

Especially since the rings have probably not bedded in fully yet...

This ties in well with the butt dyno when I went to a 3" exhaust and cat after putting in a T3/T4 on my '82ZXT. I did some runs at stock boost and then cranked it to 10PSI and both scenarios resulted in MUCH better pickup. Please don't take this as gospel, but the ECU goes into open loop mode under boost, and the maps that are programmed into the ECU are not right. I agree with others that too many people think that a low AFR is needed when boost goes up - especially after peak torque. I feel that 11 or 12 is the range starting from peak torque to max rpm - slowly declining as rpms rise. An aftermarket ECU that can control bigger injectors (for more boost) and ignition (to maximize off boost driveability and avoid detonation) is almost a necessity to my way of thinking - no more troubleshooting our state of the art factory system from 25+ years ago, and the wiring harness - rip the stock stuff out and really ENJOY our newfound driveability and power.

Nigel - your injectors are too small.

Don't know if anyone will sign up just to look at your file - know I won't... Why not just attach it?

Actually, for those of us over 50, doctors recommend not to tilt it more that 35 degrees. It helps my back after having been on my feet for a while, or I have been carrying something heavy or moving something REALLY heavy and my back gives me problems. Mine was given to me as a birthday present, and I use it more that I ever thought I would.

Just to put it here so no-one has to read it elsewhere, MSII_Extra has an Alpha version of the code out that has full sequential injection for up to 4 cylinders and semi-sequential for more than that (6-8). It allows you to time exactly WHERE in the cycle that the squirts occur (timing) and a few that run large injectors on turbo cars have lauded the change as dramatic vs the bank firing scheme that they had to use up 'til now. MSII_Extra already has fully sequential ignition for up to 6 cylinders. THe only requirement at this point for semi sequential is more injector drivers and some slight modification to the MS board itself. I personally will be using the author of the code's peak and hold injector boards in my setup (550cc SARD injectors on my L28ET).

Verrrrry Nice Dale!

A trip to Harbor Freight and less than $40 nets an engine tilter that makes the job easy. I have removed engines both ways and put them back in both ways. 6/half dozen...unless you have no help, then remove engine only.

Why is this not in the electrical forum?

JeffP has a 3 litre engine...

Once a BMW attains the kind of miles you are talking about they become expensive/time consuming to maintain. Great - you have aq friend that can help - their parts are expensive. Yes, they are complex, yes there is a lot of fru-fru. I have had BMW's, Fords, Mutsubishi's and Datsuns/Nissans/Infinitis. I LIKE my '94 Q45a, but then again, it is only HALF as costly to maintain as ANY BMW, and I can do the work for the most part myself (routine maintenance that is). I've decided to look for simplicity in my getting on in years and don't want to have to deal with any electronics other than ECU's and simple radio/cd changers, sunroofs, etc. The less that can go wrong, the more I'll enjoy the car (both having it and driving it). JMO...

I got curious, because the tone of the originator seemed familiar.... He has 3 posts relegated to the toolshed... One because of the same El Toro Poo Poo he's starting here. He was suspended for 7 days and told to read our rules, which he is still ignoring. (still can't search, still not capitalizing, still being what he just called Challenger - who has been kind enough to be a gentleman, and has pointed out and searched FOR him before). This person is supposedly in the military, he certainly hasn't shown me he can be anything but a buck private on latrine duty permanently. It's a wonder that the military is willing to put up with him. He always says he's searched and it is obvious he wants to be spoon fed by people because he is either too lazy or ignorant to do it himself. It is obvious that he is incorrigible and personally would like to see him banned permanently - from now on, I will not be a part of any thread he has started or taken part in.

Just so people know, what are the sizes for stock ZXT fuel and return? This will support how much HP?

No mere vacuum leak would cause an idle that high. I vote binding somewhere. Disconnect the linkage from the carb. Check to see that the primary throttle plates are almost fully closed. Check to see that the throttle plates move smoothly when operating the throttle mechanism. If all these check ok, note the position of the arm actuating the throttle on the carb, then attach your linkage and see if that arm has moved - you can verify by checking the throttle plates in the primaries too.

And look at the frame rail above it...

Please note that it is not HP per se that gives trannies problems - it's torque. The BW is only good for ~240-270 ft/lbs. An L28ET producing the power you're looking for will more than likely produce the same amount or more of torque...