Brad-ManQ45

Dude: You haven't told anything close to enough information for an answer. What car was it originally designed to be on? If as I suspect it was originally designed to be on a Chrysler 2.2 4 cylinder engine, then it is way too small fora 2.8. You would also have problems mating it to your exhaust manifold. Stick with a T3 or T3/T4.

All of it low...

Hey KTM: What stage turbine wheel areyou running?

What kind of resistors do you have in line for the injectors? Too low and you can cause heating up and frying circuits...

One of the best things you can do at this boint is put a shroud around your fan to insure it is pulling all the air through that it can, and sealing any possible areas that could cause air to 'leak' around the radiator... Numerous posts about lack of shrouding and overheating....

I smell some El Toro Poo Poo...

The L series maxima bellhousing nwill be needed along with the tranny from either the overdrive Maxima or from a Mitsu Starion/Conquest. If you have a turbo car only the Mitsu tranny - and you will need a torque converter - I think the one from the Starion is better - higher stall speed. A search on this site should get you more info as I'm sure it has been discussed - I even remember responding to one post on the subject with the link to an article that no longer exists...

Dude! - You put that diaper on wrong! Love puppy breath - too bad it doesn't last long...

Or you can subsist on fish 'n chips - probably better than what we get here...Where did Arthur Treacher's go in GA?

I had a pulley bearing go on me once, put a dent in my hood...I think it was the idler pulley on my ZXT.

Don't forget that the stock FPR is set to ~38 psi instead of the 43 that is the norm - this will increse the duty cycle and lower the output of the injectors...

T28 too small.

Shipping via Greyhound can be relatively cheap. I had a fellow HybridZ-er in Tempe pick up and send me the last G-nose from Arizona Z. He built a crate for the whole 1 piece G-Nose and shipped for $134. The Greyhound fee was $89.

I have a manifold that has provision for a T4 that I picked up last year. It has the flange centered where the T3 was. Sorry, don't have a camera or I'd post a pic...It does look as though the mounting face is in the same location/height as the T3 flange (if you lay the exhaust ports on the bench the flange is the same height for both manifolds)

I can see the 50 trim as being a better match - especially at high boost. My main point was to get you thinking about the turbine section and where you want boost to start for your application - 3200 rpm in 3rd with a Stage III turbine - wonder what 1st and second are like? If you intend to autoX, then you may want the Stage III or maybe even smaller... All a matter of where your priorities are...if in fact you can live with the Stage V fine - it may even be better for autoX - where smooth counts.

I believe I can understand your reasoning, but I'm not sure it is right..... The 60 trim and 50 trim have the same overall diameter, with the only difference being the size of the inducer a little bit more than a 1/4 inch. I believe that the turbine will have a greater effect on boost onset and spool than the compressor trim. If you are adamant about the 50 trim (and I'm not saying you're wrong), I don't think that a Stage 5 turbine will gain you anything down lower and will definitely help up top. Just using the same Stage 3 turbine with a 50 trim compressor would give you better onset and spool than what you have now, but the Stage 5 turbine trim will go the other way....

From what you are saying (and not saying), I suspect the 50 trim and clipped or stock (maybe stage 2) turbine would be best all around - even just putting a clipped turbine on the compressor you already have may do it... When I replaced my burned up turbo @ 134K, I got an S-3 Trim 70 A/R compressor section and a clipped turbine. Noticed no difference in boost onset rpm, but it sure did build boost faster! If you are more interested in road.autocross, I'd definitely not even consider the Stage 3 or 5 with any of the stock cams....there's really not a GREAT deal of difference between them as it related to the turbine section....

Gabe: Was that with a stage 3 or stage 5 turbine and .63 housing? Which one. If it was with a stage 5 then the T61 won't be any better. I'm thinking that if you're gonna limit yourself to 6500 rpm, then either stage 2 or 3 or possibly clipped stock turbine, just to get onset of boost lower. Once again - I looked and could find no specifics on the turbo setup that you were running other that a Precision Turbo unit 59/62. but when I go to the Percision Turbo site I can't find any info using that data.... I'm trying to remember on here who maintains that for stock cam keep stock turbine, and there are a lot of people who disagree. The fact that your boost doesn't hit where you want it to seems to indicate that the turbine is what you need to look at. The compressor section that you already have will definitely do the job!

Apparently I already did - a car that I wished I hadn't sold the minute he drove away in it - a 1972 351CJ Mustang Flatback that I had had for 100K miles and 10 years. (Back in '85) Blueprinted, Balanced, Torker Intake w/ Holley 700 DP, Doug Thorley Headers, recurved distributor, Carerra Racing Shocks, Addco bars, lowered upper control arm mounting points, Manual steering, C6 automatic and 4.10 rear gears. Dumb butt totaled it the next month...

Gabe: For sheer top end performance, I'd say the T61, but I believe that for road and track use the best of the non ball bearing units would be the TO4E 60 Trim. Imagine that eloongated "S" going from bottom left to the max on the squirrel site running either right through or right alongside the highest efficiency island on the map for it - we're talking area under the curve man! It looks like it would beat the 50 trim easily...

I don't think so - he HAS to turn the CHRA upside down to swap ends around....

Someone here once asked the question of how to take the carbeurator off his engine. I simply answered that if he couldn't look at it and see what needed to be done, perhaps he should have somebody else do it.... I didn't want to be mean or nasty, but come on, on a non fuelie engine, everything is right out in front of you and not much is a mystery....

Both Miller and Hobart are made in the same factory. Millers gennerally have copper wound transformers whereas Hobarts have aluminum windingas. A few other things are done with Millers that make them better for duty cycle and longevity, such as metal casings and better rollers etc. Not much difference in price, but I went for an MM175 back in 2001 and haven't looked back. Hobarts are good machines also. I just feel that Miller/Hobart gives better customer service to us little guys than Licoln does, based on all the research I did before my purchase. HTP makes a good MIG too. The only advice I can give to someone buying a MIG that will withstand manufacturers' preference issues is that go with a 220 volt unit and not a 120. The difference in duty cycle and capability is far more than the small increase in price. At current levels we're talking 140 vs 180 as compare to 135 vs 175 when I got mine.... TRUST me - the small amount of difference in price makes a HUGE difference in capability and enjoyment. I went so far as to get a permit to add a 220 volt circuit to my garage (and at the same time a couple more circuits in my basement for my woodshop) and haven't looked back.

I'm with you = I love that color....

What kinda gears do you want to run? AFAIK, the R200 S/B stronger w/the same ratios - if you want to run lower numerical I get it. I've heard a lot about the 8.8 IRS diffs breaking with more power applied to them - not so much with the R200...