Brad-ManQ45

TPTools has a set of directions for sale (to make your own blast cabinet) for ~$7, and sells the parts that you can't make yourself. I modified their directions to make a 4' long cabinet instead of 3'. Depending on what I'm blasting it's either beads or a combination of beads and Aluminum Oxide.

wigenOut-S30 runs 18-20 PSI and is in the 11's w/o race gas... His turbo is a T3/T4 .50 Trim E housing on the compressor and a stage 5 trim in .63 A/R turbine housing.

Gabe just put a .50 trim stage 5 turbo in his after a 60-1 w/stage 5 and another bigger turbo. Makes more power and spools better with the current turbo. It's easy to spend over $1K if you want a BallBearing turbo, but if you do the 3076R is the one to get with a .82 turbine housing (pretty much a flow match for the GT35 .63 housing). The GT35R is a bit big for 2.8....

If you have a place to store the car out of the rain, then coat it with OSPHO or PickleX. It will be ready for primer anytime after a rubdown after that. There was one professional painter on this board that used Zero Rust exclusively on his own cars and any customers who didn't have a hard head about POR15. He claims much cheaper and better results. I have had extensive conversations both in PM's and on the phone with him. He got tired of everyone arguing with him and no longer posts at all but you can look up posts by RacerX. I have used OSPHO PickleX and Zero Rust on my ZXT project and am very happy with it. As far as Zero Rust as primer - as long as you let it dry a good long while then scuff and do a light coat first with Xylene as the thinner (instead of Acetone), no problems with BC/CC or Single stage urethanes.

I would use a T3/TO4E 50 Trim compressor and a .63 A/R Turbine section with your choice of turbine trim depending on how much power you want and at what rpm. Gabe has switched to the .50 trim compressor from one or two bigger ones and is really happy now - spool and boost onset are much better. If you DO want to spend at least twice as much, go for a GT3076 - but you will need to get the .82 A/R to have the same flow as the .63 A/R on the GT35. The GT35 isa bit big for a 2.8 - fine for a 3.0.

I still have mine and will use it when I get the car back together, but the red has faded - anyone have a cure for that?

I bought my head unit and a piece of teak veneer and cut a hole to fit the head unit in the stock faceplate then cut the veneer to fit in the area by first cutting a paper pattern. My head unit is prreamp only so I only had about 4 wires to splice/solder....

Looks like a simple full floating piston pin setup to me... Engineering-wise it would make far more sense to have the rod located fore/aft by the crank - cast/forged steel on the crank throws and a larger diameter to minimize twist/flex... as opposed to lightweight piston pins and aluminum pistons that are not only much lighter weight but moving up/down - sure disaster. Now I could see a combination of both to minimize any loss of straight up/down motion as a way of maximizing efficiency of the rotating process and possibly pick up a fraction or so of horsepower...but then one would have a horror story in blueprinting/shimming between piston pin bosses and the connecting rod...

Excellent news Scottie! Trying to get your wife to come on more road trips? Ha Ha! Looking forward to seeing ya'll at DNI.

Interesting Gabe: In looking at the chart, since torque AND horsepower are down over 6k rpm, I would think you are better off shifting at 6k, making use of the higher torque available lower... That will probably be a series of interesting runs on the track to verify the concept - eh?

ou could use a 36-1 wheel like fgor the EDIS setup, but use the wheel decoder feature in MS_Extra for wasted spark with the coilpacks...

It is always a good idea to have reference vacuum separated from vacuum used to operate servos and brake boosters - preferably as far apart as possible.

I'd be worried about oil draining more than anything else...

I would suggest doing a search of this ste for the items needed for the T5 swap into whatever year Z you have (not specified) and whether it is a manual or an auto (again - not specified).

Is this for a swap from automatic or a replacement? What other parts may you need? I am swapping an auto into my '83 and have all parts for conversion.

Scotty used Hypers on his Turbo Buick engine putting out ~600 HP and swears by 'em. Just don't detonate. For people with a heavy tuning hand, these would obviously be a no-no - but then forged won't last THAT much longer if you're really off too.

EDIS requires a 36-1 wheel PERIOD. Anything else and it won't work for EDIS. You would have to make use of the wheel decoder in MegaSquirt'NSpark or provisions in whaterver aftermarket ECU you were planning on running. If wqorse came to worse you could either buy another dampner or use yours and put 35 magnets in holes drilled around the edge of the back plate on it and mount an hall sensor to pick up the signal. I will be using MSExtra or MSIII and will be utilizing a 12-1 setup for my application at the crank, and have a single sensor and magnet somewhere under the valvecover on the cam for the #1 TDC signal.

Good news on spool-up Gabe! Looking forward to results after tuning!

StrokinIT: You do realize that that tranny won't work too - don't you?

Great news Gabe! Looking forward to your comments on the differences you notece once you're tuned!

Dude: You haven't told anything close to enough information for an answer. What car was it originally designed to be on? If as I suspect it was originally designed to be on a Chrysler 2.2 4 cylinder engine, then it is way too small fora 2.8. You would also have problems mating it to your exhaust manifold. Stick with a T3 or T3/T4.

All of it low...

Hey KTM: What stage turbine wheel areyou running?

What kind of resistors do you have in line for the injectors? Too low and you can cause heating up and frying circuits...

One of the best things you can do at this boint is put a shroud around your fan to insure it is pulling all the air through that it can, and sealing any possible areas that could cause air to 'leak' around the radiator... Numerous posts about lack of shrouding and overheating....