Brad-ManQ45

I'd be worried about oil draining more than anything else...

I would suggest doing a search of this ste for the items needed for the T5 swap into whatever year Z you have (not specified) and whether it is a manual or an auto (again - not specified).

Is this for a swap from automatic or a replacement? What other parts may you need? I am swapping an auto into my '83 and have all parts for conversion.

Scotty used Hypers on his Turbo Buick engine putting out ~600 HP and swears by 'em. Just don't detonate. For people with a heavy tuning hand, these would obviously be a no-no - but then forged won't last THAT much longer if you're really off too.

EDIS requires a 36-1 wheel PERIOD. Anything else and it won't work for EDIS. You would have to make use of the wheel decoder in MegaSquirt'NSpark or provisions in whaterver aftermarket ECU you were planning on running. If wqorse came to worse you could either buy another dampner or use yours and put 35 magnets in holes drilled around the edge of the back plate on it and mount an hall sensor to pick up the signal. I will be using MSExtra or MSIII and will be utilizing a 12-1 setup for my application at the crank, and have a single sensor and magnet somewhere under the valvecover on the cam for the #1 TDC signal.

Good news on spool-up Gabe! Looking forward to results after tuning!

StrokinIT: You do realize that that tranny won't work too - don't you?

Great news Gabe! Looking forward to your comments on the differences you notece once you're tuned!

Dude: You haven't told anything close to enough information for an answer. What car was it originally designed to be on? If as I suspect it was originally designed to be on a Chrysler 2.2 4 cylinder engine, then it is way too small fora 2.8. You would also have problems mating it to your exhaust manifold. Stick with a T3 or T3/T4.

All of it low...

Hey KTM: What stage turbine wheel areyou running?

What kind of resistors do you have in line for the injectors? Too low and you can cause heating up and frying circuits...

One of the best things you can do at this boint is put a shroud around your fan to insure it is pulling all the air through that it can, and sealing any possible areas that could cause air to 'leak' around the radiator... Numerous posts about lack of shrouding and overheating....

I smell some El Toro Poo Poo...

The L series maxima bellhousing nwill be needed along with the tranny from either the overdrive Maxima or from a Mitsu Starion/Conquest. If you have a turbo car only the Mitsu tranny - and you will need a torque converter - I think the one from the Starion is better - higher stall speed. A search on this site should get you more info as I'm sure it has been discussed - I even remember responding to one post on the subject with the link to an article that no longer exists...

Dude! - You put that diaper on wrong! Love puppy breath - too bad it doesn't last long...

Or you can subsist on fish 'n chips - probably better than what we get here...Where did Arthur Treacher's go in GA?

I had a pulley bearing go on me once, put a dent in my hood...I think it was the idler pulley on my ZXT.

Don't forget that the stock FPR is set to ~38 psi instead of the 43 that is the norm - this will increse the duty cycle and lower the output of the injectors...

T28 too small.

Shipping via Greyhound can be relatively cheap. I had a fellow HybridZ-er in Tempe pick up and send me the last G-nose from Arizona Z. He built a crate for the whole 1 piece G-Nose and shipped for $134. The Greyhound fee was $89.

I have a manifold that has provision for a T4 that I picked up last year. It has the flange centered where the T3 was. Sorry, don't have a camera or I'd post a pic...It does look as though the mounting face is in the same location/height as the T3 flange (if you lay the exhaust ports on the bench the flange is the same height for both manifolds)

I can see the 50 trim as being a better match - especially at high boost. My main point was to get you thinking about the turbine section and where you want boost to start for your application - 3200 rpm in 3rd with a Stage III turbine - wonder what 1st and second are like? If you intend to autoX, then you may want the Stage III or maybe even smaller... All a matter of where your priorities are...if in fact you can live with the Stage V fine - it may even be better for autoX - where smooth counts.

I believe I can understand your reasoning, but I'm not sure it is right..... The 60 trim and 50 trim have the same overall diameter, with the only difference being the size of the inducer a little bit more than a 1/4 inch. I believe that the turbine will have a greater effect on boost onset and spool than the compressor trim. If you are adamant about the 50 trim (and I'm not saying you're wrong), I don't think that a Stage 5 turbine will gain you anything down lower and will definitely help up top. Just using the same Stage 3 turbine with a 50 trim compressor would give you better onset and spool than what you have now, but the Stage 5 turbine trim will go the other way....

From what you are saying (and not saying), I suspect the 50 trim and clipped or stock (maybe stage 2) turbine would be best all around - even just putting a clipped turbine on the compressor you already have may do it... When I replaced my burned up turbo @ 134K, I got an S-3 Trim 70 A/R compressor section and a clipped turbine. Noticed no difference in boost onset rpm, but it sure did build boost faster! If you are more interested in road.autocross, I'd definitely not even consider the Stage 3 or 5 with any of the stock cams....there's really not a GREAT deal of difference between them as it related to the turbine section....