Brad-ManQ45

Don't know if anyone will sign up just to look at your file - know I won't... Why not just attach it?

Actually, for those of us over 50, doctors recommend not to tilt it more that 35 degrees. It helps my back after having been on my feet for a while, or I have been carrying something heavy or moving something REALLY heavy and my back gives me problems. Mine was given to me as a birthday present, and I use it more that I ever thought I would.

Just to put it here so no-one has to read it elsewhere, MSII_Extra has an Alpha version of the code out that has full sequential injection for up to 4 cylinders and semi-sequential for more than that (6-8). It allows you to time exactly WHERE in the cycle that the squirts occur (timing) and a few that run large injectors on turbo cars have lauded the change as dramatic vs the bank firing scheme that they had to use up 'til now. MSII_Extra already has fully sequential ignition for up to 6 cylinders. THe only requirement at this point for semi sequential is more injector drivers and some slight modification to the MS board itself. I personally will be using the author of the code's peak and hold injector boards in my setup (550cc SARD injectors on my L28ET).

Verrrrry Nice Dale!

A trip to Harbor Freight and less than $40 nets an engine tilter that makes the job easy. I have removed engines both ways and put them back in both ways. 6/half dozen...unless you have no help, then remove engine only.

Why is this not in the electrical forum?

JeffP has a 3 litre engine...

Once a BMW attains the kind of miles you are talking about they become expensive/time consuming to maintain. Great - you have aq friend that can help - their parts are expensive. Yes, they are complex, yes there is a lot of fru-fru. I have had BMW's, Fords, Mutsubishi's and Datsuns/Nissans/Infinitis. I LIKE my '94 Q45a, but then again, it is only HALF as costly to maintain as ANY BMW, and I can do the work for the most part myself (routine maintenance that is). I've decided to look for simplicity in my getting on in years and don't want to have to deal with any electronics other than ECU's and simple radio/cd changers, sunroofs, etc. The less that can go wrong, the more I'll enjoy the car (both having it and driving it). JMO...

I got curious, because the tone of the originator seemed familiar.... He has 3 posts relegated to the toolshed... One because of the same El Toro Poo Poo he's starting here. He was suspended for 7 days and told to read our rules, which he is still ignoring. (still can't search, still not capitalizing, still being what he just called Challenger - who has been kind enough to be a gentleman, and has pointed out and searched FOR him before). This person is supposedly in the military, he certainly hasn't shown me he can be anything but a buck private on latrine duty permanently. It's a wonder that the military is willing to put up with him. He always says he's searched and it is obvious he wants to be spoon fed by people because he is either too lazy or ignorant to do it himself. It is obvious that he is incorrigible and personally would like to see him banned permanently - from now on, I will not be a part of any thread he has started or taken part in.

Just so people know, what are the sizes for stock ZXT fuel and return? This will support how much HP?

No mere vacuum leak would cause an idle that high. I vote binding somewhere. Disconnect the linkage from the carb. Check to see that the primary throttle plates are almost fully closed. Check to see that the throttle plates move smoothly when operating the throttle mechanism. If all these check ok, note the position of the arm actuating the throttle on the carb, then attach your linkage and see if that arm has moved - you can verify by checking the throttle plates in the primaries too.

And look at the frame rail above it...

Please note that it is not HP per se that gives trannies problems - it's torque. The BW is only good for ~240-270 ft/lbs. An L28ET producing the power you're looking for will more than likely produce the same amount or more of torque...

This could also have something to do with the subframe bushings too. JeffP put in Aluminum bushings, but man that could get rough!

You would also have the problem of getting the return oil into the oil pan (uphill). Minimum a scavenging pump, plus more length for piping adding volume to the pressurized air path from turbo to throttle body.

+1 for .270 - great all 'round caliber...

I will be using 12-1 with the magnets drilled into the back of my crank dampner

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=80933&highlight=clutch

Tokico's made th4e car too low and rode stiffly. Eibachs are close to stock until your swaybars kick in around a corner and noticeably less squat on acceleration. Only drop it ~1".

I have Eibachs on mine and like 'em. I would use a different than stock shock/strut cartridge with them tho'. I am using Illuminas, but HP's or Monroe or KYB could be used. I know someone that has Tokico springs on his and is removing them.

Stock mechanical turbo cam good to ~6.2k. But if you go mechanical you can get a better cam than the stock ones - esp. if you're NA. Couldn't say about the header....

When I was having my house built, I ran Cat5 cable, extra TV outlets and put rockwool in all interior walls between bedrooms and other rooms in the house. You may recognize Rockwool as the brand name of the stuff that is used in Gas Log fireplaces to look like glowing embers. This stuff is a LOT heavier than fiberglass, and VERY fire-resistant. To this day the only sounds coming into the bedrooms are from around/through the doors themselves. I would put a few flourescent fixtures in the garage. My house is on a basement with about 1.5 feet of room between the garage floor and where the main level is, so I was able to run 220 and 120 lines easily to my garage AFTER the house was built. If I were you I would do it BEFORE, but then I don't know what your configuration is.

How high do you want to crank the engine? If over 6.5K then go P90, not the hydraulic. Before anyone lambastes me on this, the stock cam isn't good for close to this, and if you want a cam that IS, then go with the mechanical. Both have the same size combustion chamber, but you will need to get a different exhaust manifold to match the exhaust ports - the manifold from an N42 I believe....

I've always preferred Cibie...

+1... The fvact thaqt you don't have boost on that NA engine means less chance to destroy it while learning to tune!