Brad-ManQ45

Bedliner is itself a dampner,and yes you can lay of=ther sound mats on it. I am using bedliner in my wheel wells over Zero Rust on my '83ZXT, whihc I have finished replacing half the firewall and inner fender panel and battery tray on due to rust.

Match the AR for the exhaust and the trim of the turbine to the rev range of the cam. Stock cam needs to keep stock/clipped at most Stage 3 turbine and stock AR. Bigger cams, moving powerband up the rev range would require larger (more open/larger outlet/higher trim # - Stage 3 or 5) and possibly larger AR housing.

I don't think that 110 degree LCA is good - better go 114.

Different input shafts for sure between all the T5's by manufacturer, as well as bellhousings. The Nissan T5 was not a WC T5. It is my understanding that you can have a Nissan T5 built to WC specs tho'. This discussion better in the drivetrain forum as it is not S130 specific...

If it's the S trim, ypu'll be a bit better than the stock turbo. I have a T3/T4 S-3 trim on my ZXT. That .81 exhaust housing will kill your low end, and the S trim compressor housing will limit your top end.

The fact that it won't rev over ~2200 rpm indicates TPS got wet. No big deal to check the dizzy cap tho'

A buddy of mine removed his '82ZXT windshield and TTops as part of a total paint job and had to weld in some patches in the windshield channels. He knew there was some rust, but not so much! My '83ZXT has some rust bubbling above the WS, so I am going to remove it and fix what I need to as part of a total paint job also.

Except that your tires will rub the wheelwells...with coilovers you want positive offset.

There were problems with the early 700R4's. Unless you are going to go through it and replace everything, get aq later year...Like late 80's or early 90's...

Quick - somebody take John to the doctor/asylum - he wants Sh*t from everybody! I think we may have a major meltdown in progress!

I got mine from Roger at ZBarn - molded cut pile - like it!

I can see Pat Benetar, but don't forget Joan Jett - tough decision.... And my vote for best mouth nto watch while she sings is Sheryl Crow.

Has Nissan done what they did with the Q45 engine in '94 and upgraded the replacement/stock chain guides to cermaic coated metal instead of the crummy plastic guides for the KA's. I had to replace those damn things twice in 100K and the second time traded the POS Stanzain on a Town Car.

In the past two weeks I have had to check the little box saying I agree to abide by the rules twice now when trying to reply to a post. Same computer - is it still the same site? WTF is going on?

If your doors line up properly now, take 'em out and put x braces in the openings and seam weld away! Yoy can even cross brace between the cross braces to box the cabin section. Not much needed - spot welds and a bit of metal - easy to remove - little time. Save you a bunch of griping when on your back welding and probably on total time.

Are you sure the TPS connection is not wet? This is a classic symptom...

Probably would have to mill - flattops would give ~8.3 to 8.5...

Especially since the rings have probably not bedded in fully yet...

This ties in well with the butt dyno when I went to a 3" exhaust and cat after putting in a T3/T4 on my '82ZXT. I did some runs at stock boost and then cranked it to 10PSI and both scenarios resulted in MUCH better pickup. Please don't take this as gospel, but the ECU goes into open loop mode under boost, and the maps that are programmed into the ECU are not right. I agree with others that too many people think that a low AFR is needed when boost goes up - especially after peak torque. I feel that 11 or 12 is the range starting from peak torque to max rpm - slowly declining as rpms rise. An aftermarket ECU that can control bigger injectors (for more boost) and ignition (to maximize off boost driveability and avoid detonation) is almost a necessity to my way of thinking - no more troubleshooting our state of the art factory system from 25+ years ago, and the wiring harness - rip the stock stuff out and really ENJOY our newfound driveability and power.

Nigel - your injectors are too small.

Don't know if anyone will sign up just to look at your file - know I won't... Why not just attach it?

Actually, for those of us over 50, doctors recommend not to tilt it more that 35 degrees. It helps my back after having been on my feet for a while, or I have been carrying something heavy or moving something REALLY heavy and my back gives me problems. Mine was given to me as a birthday present, and I use it more that I ever thought I would.

Just to put it here so no-one has to read it elsewhere, MSII_Extra has an Alpha version of the code out that has full sequential injection for up to 4 cylinders and semi-sequential for more than that (6-8). It allows you to time exactly WHERE in the cycle that the squirts occur (timing) and a few that run large injectors on turbo cars have lauded the change as dramatic vs the bank firing scheme that they had to use up 'til now. MSII_Extra already has fully sequential ignition for up to 6 cylinders. THe only requirement at this point for semi sequential is more injector drivers and some slight modification to the MS board itself. I personally will be using the author of the code's peak and hold injector boards in my setup (550cc SARD injectors on my L28ET).

Verrrrry Nice Dale!

A trip to Harbor Freight and less than $40 nets an engine tilter that makes the job easy. I have removed engines both ways and put them back in both ways. 6/half dozen...unless you have no help, then remove engine only.