Brad-ManQ45

Offhand, I can't think of too many car speakers that are NOT 4 ohm, until you start talking about individual drivers. Are you sure a speaker lug isn't grounding out? Have youu tried tapping the cone of one of the speakers when it isn't working and the system is on? SAW CUSTOMER ONCE WHO COMPained about something like you have that had blown speakers. They wouldn't budge sometimes, then they'd let go for a bit, then lock up again - rattled a lot too.

If that had been an RD350....

I have FloFits in my '83ZXT, used the aftermarket brackets, but had to redrill holes in order for seat to fit on passenger side.... Headroom WAS lost....

Ok my story follows: 1975 - the bike is a Yamaha RD 350 - 40 days old with 4700 miles on it (college, intramurals, canyon carving in north GA). I'm on the way to karate class and have a red light at a 5 lane road (2 lanes each direction and a turn lane). Checking out a cute blond in a silver Audi 100 in the lane next to me. I turn back and the light turns green. I look and there is a line of cars stopped in the near lane, I wait a second, and go - A '75 Town Car runs the light in the second lane, which can't be seen because he's coming from downhill. He slams the brakes on 30 feet from the intersection just as I'm starting across his lane. I snap my head to the left see him and say OH SH*T! - I'm gonna die... I had always thought about what to do in situations that could pop up and thiat is probably the only thing that saved me - I cracked the throttle wide open and went limp. Since I was in the habit of always being 'on the pipe' when in an intersectrion, the bike shot forward and started to wheelie, which carried my left leg past his left front fender, and the wheelie got my but OVER the fender. When he hit me, it tore the bike out from under me and spun me around ~90 degrees, my butt hit the ground and his rear tire ran over my left leg/ankle. At no time did my head touch bike, car or ground. There was an off duty PO from the next county on a Kawasaki 400 waiting to make a left hand turn at the stoplight coming the opposite direction (missed the turn signal - had just pulled up), that later told me he thought I was a goner and that he didn't know if he would have done what I did in that circumstance. He noticed my yellow belt which was wrapped around my gi which someone took off my bike after shutting it off (it was stuck at WOT laying in the middle of the intersection) to put under my head. He asked me if it hurt (leg bleeding and ankle all F*cked up) and I said 'I'm trying not to think about it. He comes back with 'that only works when you get to brown belt' and I said 'THANKS A LOT' and we both laughed. Long story short - he showed up for the traffic ticket written on the guy (who was late taking his maid to the busstop). The guy tried to plead not guilty, even though he saw me come into the courtroom (crutches and full length leg cast). When the judge asked if there were any other witnesses (obviously wanting to discount the long haired hippie-type college boy), he about SH*T his pants when a uniformed PO stood up and stated that he saw the whole thing and that he did in fact run the light and cause the accident. Sorry to be so long, but there were a couple of lessons learned here: There is NO WAY you are always going to be able to see what is coming. It's ALWAYS good to be in the powerband when you are crossing an intersection (not a much of a problem now that there aren't many two-strokes around, but still - don't be lugging it). I firmly believe that it PAYS to mentally prepare yourself for the unexpected (not while you're riding of course, but when you're not doing anything - kicking back). Thinking about the best way to handle a situation in advance gives you a bit of an edge. Kind of like when you took typing class and mentally typed out words - that kind of mental excercise helped me become the fastet typer in class and believe me, I started as the slowest, and this was on manual typewriters back in the 60's. And lastly - if you'r gonna ride - either do it in the country or in a group and wear loud colors. Ok I've rambled on long enough...

Several things wrong with this idea: The afm isn't designed to be pressurized. It is now not measuring air at the temperature of outside air, so there is no way that you will have proper A/F ratios. It would probably work ok off boost, but will have problems on boost.

Metallicar: What kind of rims are you using? Do you know the offset or backspacing?

I'm interested in this also because I just bought a set of Cyclone II's - although I am only concerned about the rears - I will put 215/60/14's on the front.

I am well into my 50's now, and had beers when I was 15 - my dad actually took me to a party and got me hammered when I was 16 - he never had to worry about me after that. I have had a brother die of alcohol poisoning, and watch my dad have too much occasionally. That said, I still like an occasional single malt or single barrel bourbon, and every once in a while a Manhattan. But NOTHING satisfies a thirst like an ice cold beer, and I actually prefer MHL (this is all in bottles - can't stand cans - if I am having draft, Killian's works)- I also like MGD and Icehouse, but really do like MHL - I just wish they'd put it in a brown bottle like all beer should be...

You may want to have the cutouts further forward on the sides of the scoop than immediately in front of the backplane to get out of the high pressure area...

I personally like the looks of the G Nose and don't like the looks of the overfenders.... That said - something to smooth the front end and make the grill area smaller, slight flares... And NO - you DON'T want me to try to draw....

I would gladly have shelled out an extra ~$100 for this one over the one you have - I made the mistake of getting one like that one 7 years ago, 4 years ago I bit the bullet and bought a HD Husky 60 gal compressor for $425 - 10%. Ran a 220 volt circuit in the basement (where compressor is) to attached garage, shared by compressor and welder (I can't use 'em both at the same time obviously, but then it takes two hands to work with either one so no big deal). I varely hear the compressor in the garage. The big thing I didn't like about the oilless compressor was noise - twice as loud as the bigger compressor. Now I only use it when sandblasting or using sanders/tools with a big CFM requirement - I have it tee'd into the system with quick disconnects. Have HVLP paint guns so don't need to use with them....

Hope you recover soon Mike. I didn't ride too many times after that town car ran a red light....

For that kind of money you can get a 60ga; 220V compressor that will do almost anything....

Perhaps an Engine/Powertrain Management Forum, with Megasquirt a subforum....

You definitely want to leave the vacuum advance working or part throttle mileage and power will be the pits....

Pay no attention to Olie05 - I have always liked the 2+2's (except ZX's), although for my purposes I went with a 2 seater. It's looking good - I am about to embark on the same type of project w/my '83ZXT and hope I can get it to look as good.

Wow Mike! Can't wait to see you run at SEZ. Ever thought about a 4L80E? I would imagine you could convert to manual shift (no electronic controller) and have a switch for lockup....

Why not put the TB mounted in the center with a diffuser for the center cylinders? That would probably work better...

Pretty good. I paid $635 for my MM175 with cart 4 years ago....

That time-plan may be a bit pessimistic. I REALLY want to get the ZXT on the road w/megasquirt/intercooler/COP and automatic, and painted - hopefully by SEZ in March. It is just TOO HOT to do anything in the garage here in the Atlanta area right now - even cleaning/sweeping the floort is a pain - and I have an air compressor! To be honest, part of the 4 years the '75 has been sitting I was looking for a job, and the other part was building,staffing, training and running a restaurant. I am farming out the electronics building for the MS project, because I haven't done that since before I was an adult (at least I've done bodywork in that time). The painting is intimidating, which is why I am doing the (soon to be) daily driver ZXT first. I don't particularly care about blemishes there, because sooner or later someone's gonna smack it in the parking lots....

Guys: I have no idea what the ultimate cost will be. I have done some fiberglass work in the past, but it was repairs. I don't intend to make a lot of money, just be able to supply the part to everyone. It will be handlaid, and I am investigating vacuum-bagging. This will be a long drawn-out process and I have no desire to be bugged about it - my '75 project has been sitting for years without engine/tranny gas tank/interior because I have an '83ZXT that requires lots of attention. I currrently have to sand down the clear and oxidized paint where the clear peeled off, then seal and paint. That along with some rust repair. Then there is MS-ing, installing an interooler, taking out the T5 and putting in an OD automatic....

Well, I wouldn't say I'm respected - I get no respect! And I wouldn't even say I'm respectable. As a matter of fact, I wouldn't be a member of a club that would HAVE me as a member.....

Thanks to GetZ (Joel), I have the last Arizona Z Car G-nose on its' way to Georgia. In case anyone's interested in seeing one: http://www.arizonazcar.com/g-nose.html I PM'd Joel at random after doing a search of HybridZ'rs in the Phoenix area to ask if he knew anyone that could help by picking up and packaging a fiberglass part. He said he ships at his company all the time and could make a crate for it! I lucked out on my first try! This outstanding HybridZ'r didn't even charge me for his time, only materials. David @AZC didn't have the measurements right, and I thought we may be able to get it through FedX, but it was a bit big at 65"x30"x31" once crated, so it got shipped by GreyHound. The crate and shipping was $120. I can't thank Joel enough for his help. What I HOPE to be able to do instead, is mount it and finish it well (probably make it thicker as Davids' stuff is geared more for racers, so a few more layers will probably be in order, then take it off and make some really good molds. I know that someone bought the molds (in Ohio I think), but their website doesn't even mention fiberglass stuff yet, so no telling what/when they are going to do anything with it. I also hope to be able to make headlight cover kits of the G-Nose, and possibly a spoiler/air dam for it. Anyway, it would not have been possible except for the willingness of Joel to help. I just wanted to take this opportunity to let everyone know that there is a great HybridZ'r in Chandler, AZ.

No mistake, it is the doors, ttops, floorpans and back to the back panel which are different, as well as springs....

If you want inexpensive and good, then look at Zero Rust. It can be used as a primer, and since you will eventually top coat or use a high build primer on it to smooth the body, you should have no problem with a littel discoloring that comes from leaving it exposed to sun (this does not affect the protection). By having it cure 30 days, you can use a product without acetone in it to paint over it. It has a naturally flat finish to it. I do not know what form the discoloring takes - probably chalky though. Epoxy primers have the same issue with discoloration. I will be using white Zero Rust on my (peeling clearcoat) on my 83 ZXT, which also needs to have windshield removed and some rust taken care of (leaks into drivers side) and a rust spot above driver side rear bumper extension. This is mainly to get it looking halfway decent again. I will wait 30 days and then put a 2K high build primer on and prepare for a single stage paint. (My first time, I do not want to go metallic as it is now, so I am changing color to white.