Brad-ManQ45

1st - one should always be concerned with detonation, and avoid it at all costs. That said, I agree that 12.5 - 12.7 is where you whould be under boost, not 10.5 - you're losing HP and gas. You can also lose HP if timing is not right, as well as mileage. I am about to go MSNS_E,and will be using a knock sensor when tuning, and edge up on the right settings. If you check out the MSEFI forum, you can see a vendor that can supply something that will interface with MS and datalog. It costs ~$60 dollars, anhd I believe it will be money well spent.

I think he meant creeping turbo...

With v3.0 you don't need HEI - it drives the coil directly. Sensots can remain stock, and use EasyTherm. Don't necessarily need a relay board, since you already have a fuel injected car that has the relays, but it does make wiring simpler.

Congratulations

That one (Bel-Aire) is highly touted by the autobodyshop forum. Go for it!

On Nissan-USA site, shows both 2wd and 4wd as limitied slip standard on the Armada.

V3 board has driver for coil - don't need HEI module. or those of us wanting to do things in stages, can come back later and do EDIS. Also has FIDLE output. Also, has provision to support LowZ injectors - no flyback board needed. This what I am going to.

I don't necessarily agree that bigger is always better. You have to take into account boost lag somewhere in the equation. A road racer certainly would want a rather large intercooler for the same amount of horsepower from its' engine than a typical steet-racer, concerned with stoplite to stoplite action, because he is continually making demands on the coolin/heatsink capabilities of the intercooler, and for longer periods of time. In a short burst situation, a smaller, very efficient intercooler can give all the performace/cooling needed, and have better boost response because there is less volume to pressurize. One must be realistic in determining what the application will be in order to come up with the right "package" for the car.

you spelled it right bastaad525. I agree on the 15:1, although this would tend to keep exhaust temps higher (quicker spool?) Ther may be a negative factor that I am not accounting for here. This thread pretty much re-emphasises the need for the "package" approch to gearing and engine mods that has been hashed and rehashed in other threads, particularly when turbos are involved. I still maintain that a lower numerical rear gear is better for turbo cars.

I guess we have an answer then. 3.90 rear gear. Tires should make up a little of the difference, but not much. Remember that the stock ZXT's had 3.54 rear gears, even the 5 speed manuals - they like load. Try short-shifting from 1st to 2nd and see if boost builds quicker for you. (take it up to ~3500, then shift to second). If boost hits better (in 2nd) than winding it (in 1st then shifting to 2nd), then you know that your rear gear is the culprit, which is what it sounds like to me - at least for the way you want to drive the car. If so, you might want to consider a rear ratio change.

Can't believe Austin, TX doesn't have a machine shop that can dunk an engine block....

REgular mild steel plate will do - If JTR style, go with the thickness they use.

I'm not familiar with what you are running, so I'll take a couple of wild stabs. Rear gear ratio too "stiff", ie: 3.90 or 4.10 - turbos like load, and if you don't have any, won't spool 'till later. Small diameter tires will act like this too. Bigger turbo - esp. turbine side, which can really slow down response. What type of turbo are you running?

I personally believe a slight panty line aids in evaluating overall shape, but more importantly the woman's ability to choose panties that fit/blend well to their derriere. Seeing a slight line also lets me know that they are a bit softer and cuddlier than the aerobics fanatics. Yes, I am a male chauvinist pig... This coming from a man who loves his wife very much for saying, and I quote: "If a man doesn't look, he's of no use to me" after being questioned by other wives at a party when all of us (guys) were in a group talking and noticed a bodacious young thing come through the door. I will admit that my glance was casual, and my tongue didn't hit the floor like a few of the husbands, but the act was noticed and commented upon. She never has given me any crap about that kind of stuff - a keeper!

I believe there is some debate about the 2nd Gen Q's having R230's. It might make sense - they quit making ZXTT's and had the R230's available, but I honestly don't know. I do know I intensely dislike the looks of the 2nd Gen Q compared to the 1st Gens. and haven't really liked the 3rd Gens either. Something really classic about the 1st Gen - almost Jaguarish....

My vote will reflect your answer to the following question: Are you talking about a simple insignificant LINE, or does it include actual CREASES which might also indicate panties used as more of a FOUNDATION garment, where a GIRDLE would be a better choice? (I am definitely against the latter in case you were wondering).

Can't be an R230 in 1st gen Q...

Too True Grumpyvette... I'm 51 and think through and research before doing anything, always have (not that I haven't made mistakes - like the time I tightened down the baseplate of the carb on my 351CJ Mustang without having the bolts for the auto choke for the fitting on the manifold all the way down, breaking off the automatic choke part of the baseplate - that was the worst one - no choke until I put on a Torker and Holley 700 DP). Now that I'm wiser I still am trying to figure out why I'm still doing this stuff! The aches and pains from out of position work, the wife's complaints about the car in the garage, and the one on the extra parking pad. The ceaseless search for knowledge to incorporate into the car. But then I remember the first time I cranked up my first engine rebuild, the first time I had my bodywork painted, the $ I've saved just KNOWING how to fix something and either doing it myself, or not getting ripped off by people I have taken my cars to to do the work I didn't have time for. Bust most of all, the process of learning, talking and meeting with people who have gasoline running in their veins.

Nope, not Mike's vette - his is better looking (color). Nitrous is one of the best ways to make sure that Murphy's Law will come home to roost with you. I'd rather turbocharge...and have it all the time.

Almost any 2 stage compressor will work for what you want to do. HVLP uses less air than regular guns, but some can be hogs. Nevertheless, nay good compressor that you get should handle any HVLP setup with no problem - the HV par is volume of air, the LP is the pressure requirement - it's low, and a big tank can hold a lot of air at 124 or more PSI. So don't worry and get a good deal. I like JohnC's suggestion, and if I ever buy another compressor, will go this route.

Pete: Hoping all goes well - hate for you to miss a convention...

For rusted bolts/nuts, nothing I've tried works better than Kroil. Phosphric acid is not a rust remover, it is a rust converter - used to get the microscopic rust in pits after visible rust has been sanded/ground away. Several products on the market contain phosphoric acid - OSPHO can be found at NAPA stores and paint stores, PickleX (formerly Rust Mort) goes a step further than OSPHO does - if the car is in a shop, you sand/get rid of all surface rust and treat the surface, it can be left alone until time to spray. With OSPHO, you basically want to treat it, let it dry, then prime. Navel Jelly is a common rust REMOVER, but you must make sure that you rinse thoroughly or you have problems painting over it. Even if using a rust remover, use a phosphoric acid treatment on the metal before priming.

It is my understanding that only in drifting events does the VLSD overheat and go "open".

oops! - I misread....

The R230 from a TT ZX has a 3.90. The R200 from the NA 300 ZX (90 - 9?) has a 4.11, same as a 240SX R230.