alexideways

:eek:WOW! Amazing! This guy sure looks like he knows what he's doing.

From what I can read in the link you posted, the POWERSTROKE uses the INJECTERS only. I guess that once you eliminated all the timing hardware, cams and oil passages internal to the head, it might compensate for the cost. Plus, once the technology comes out and more and more parts are produced, the prices are going to go down, electronic components are getting cheaper to produce by the minute. I know for sure that we are anxiously waiting for this to come out, here at BMW, but the mother company is a bit shy about details. I heard they`re waiting to bring this out at the same time as the 48V. charging systems, we already have, on some models, the starter/alternator combined in a single unit though. From what very little I've seen so far though, the valves they are experimenting seem to be sliding valves, a bit like old motorcycle slide throttle carburetors, where the valve, instead of moving axially, would swing radially to a predetermined angle depending on the amount of opening needed. The head is diminished to the thickness of a valve cover and there's no more intake plenum, air would be contained in the head itself and fuel would be supplemented trough direct injection, no more oil needed in the head, no more timing apparatus hanging from the front and it makes for a surprisingly small engine... I don't know much details for now, but I'll be sure to follow this tread, as it's immensely interesting and as soon as I have more info, I'll make sure to let you guys know. It's coming one drop at a time though, as all I know, I learned by poking the field engineers, whenever they drop by. Thanks for starting this good tread. Alex.

Hi, I know this place has been discussed before and my mind has been made, a while ago, NOT to trust them. I found trough searching, that the floor and frame rails pics he shows, he stole from http://www.datsunzparts.com/, but I was wondering, from whom did he steal the door pics from??? Does anyone really make reproduction doors??? Thanks.

Funny, i was just looking at this website... I found it interesting, cause they were inexpensive and already in Canada, I tought I'd save on the shipping, but now, I'm prety sure I won't order from them. SO, what is the best place to buy floors and engine bay frame rails for a 240??? Thanks guys, for making me save a bundle.

First, he's using a HVLP gun, not rattle cans and he's not the first one to try this and I haven't heard of any one's paint flying of the car yet... Some got better results than others, but no paint flied off. Read ninth post from the top. http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

Just remove it entirely then LOL:burnout:

That thing looks like an accident waiting to happen... Notice how many times, in that short video, they nearly rear end other vehicles...

Tell him that was just a warning, next time he says his car is better than your Z it's going to be totaled... LOL

Well, it's clearly indicated in the article that THEY did both, so I'll try to find out more on this subject and I'll post my findings here...

I'm not talking about only the rails, I'm talking about seem welding the whole shell... I know what's the whole point of it, that's exactly what I'm trying to do, stiffen up my 35 y/o chassis, before the RB goes in. I was just wondering why some people (well respected Japanese race car builders) would go trough the painstaking process of riveting the whole thing, instead of just stitch weld the seams... In one particular case they did both!?!?!?!?!?! (BTW, I'm not building a race car here, but I want it to last a long time, so I want to stiffen it up, without going all out on triangulation and roll cage and... What I'm planning to do is stitch weld the whole thing and cut apart a donor car and overlay a second layer of sheet metal at every point where the shell's main members joint and reinforce all susp. attachment points and frame rails...) Thanks for your answers... Alex.

Near your ECCM (ECU) plug, you have 1 or 2 relays??? Series one have 1 igniter for all coils while series 2 have one igniter per coil, so you MIGHT have the wrong harness, as if you had to wire one in cause it wasn't there, it might be because the igniters are supposed to be straight on the coils themselves... You say that the injectors fires once or twice and then nothing, are all off your injectors acting the same or you tested only one??? I don't know what serial # series 1 ecu is, but my series 2 # is 23710 13U00

:iagree: :iagree: :iagree: :iagree: :iagree: EDIT: This post was supposed to be right under JohnC's thread on the other page... BUT THIS HAD TO HAPPEN...LOL

I once dreamt that I was rolling over in my car, everything seemed so real, I could feel the pain, even upon waking up in sweat, it took a few seconds for the pain to fade away, kinda scary...

What year is your RB, is it series 1 or 2???

Is it just me or when he's upshifting it sounds like an automatic, but when downshifting, seems like he's matching the revs:confused:

Well, first of all, you're planning on drifting a 30 y/o chassis, drifting is greatly affected by chassis stiffness, the Z was not a very stiff chassis to start with and 30 years of abuse didn't make things any better, so plan on doing a lot of work in that area... Also, as you're only 18 (which doesn't give you much experience behind the wheel, race or street) and new to racing and driving, the Z might not be the best car to start with. Here's why, PLAN ON CRASHING THE CAR OFTEN. And trying to fix a 30 year old chassis might not be easy, just try and find parts on a quick turn around... The best car to start with (I know it'll be just like everyone else) is the S13 If you crash the thing and it's beyond fixing, you can just buy one with the usual frame rail rust problem for $500 make a quick fix, (Don't need to be that perfect, just solid, YOU WILL crash the car AGAIN) put your mechanical in it and keep going. You will learn way quicker this way than if your season is over every time you kiss the wall and have to wait for next year to start over... My $0.02.

:icon2:OK, I have read somewhere that Japanese car builders like to use stainless rivets as their weapon of choice to stiffen a chassis, some others like to add more OEM style spot welds and many will use stitch welding... :icon2:Now, I just saw an time attack S13, (prepared by a very well respected Japanese builder) which was stitch welded 1" every 3" and the guy also installed stainless rivets in between each stitch... :Which approach would you consider the best between the tree??? :What are, if any, the advantages of one over the other??? (besides the fact that rivets must be excruciatingly time consuming...) Thanks!!!

Still would be nice to get back on tracks...

To me it looks a lot like a first gen. impreza bumper...

Hun!!! Someone finally made me like an S130. I mean, I hate S130s and I like yours so, GOOG JOB. The color is amazing and the wheels are very nice too, it kind of brings the whole car together...

Well, I'm no very much of the believer type so, I can't really send prayers, but be sure that I'll be sending all the positive thoughts and energy I can, your way. + I know someone who is a true believer and I'll ask her to pray for you... As everyone else said, chances are on your side, most people today come out triumphant. Best wishes from me and my GF... Alex & Emmanuelle.

If the key is not in the ON position, there is no voltage to make the bags pop... They could have, at least, taken an already smashed one, no??? Nobody would have seen the difference...

No, the Nissan 14 + 16 plug doesn't have the same shape as an OBD plug... My engine is an RB25 from a 96 model, I think that in Japan they went to OBD2 later than in America, cause here, in America we had OBD2 since 96... If your engine is from a 2000, I'm pretty sure it's OBD2, but do your research anyways... This is what the plug should look like, but I think that my camera takes worst pics than a phone cam so, sorry for the fuzzy pic.

Flocking is already used by OEMs, think sunvisors, coin trays, glove box lining and if it's determined to be up to code by OEMs, I guess it should last a while...