madkaw

Thanks for sharing

Doesn't the car need to be on the ground or at least the weight of the car on the tires??

I will get this professionally done in the end, but curious what ways you guys have measured and dialed in your alignment? I just changed out a tie rod end and I want the alignment to be close before driving. I have looked at some you tube videos that use everything from string-lines to tape measures. As you know measuring front inside front wheel to inside front wheel has some obstacles. One suggestion was a straight edge on the outside of the wheel and low enough to use a tape measure to measure front to back of the straight edge. I also tried running string line around all 4 corners . I notices that the drivers side front wheel seems to stick out more then passenger side- is the rack adjustable? Maybe some pictures of your measuring devices?

I also bolted in the trans mount to keep the tunnel dimension correct

Are your seat rail supports still there? They will keep things together . If your inner rockers are solid then you should have a lot of movement. I think I welded a support across the floor from trans tunnel to inner rocker because I was replacing seat supports too. My car was also on jack stands.

I went the Chevy route and bought the Turbo Sonic. Very happy with handling and brakes and would love to spend the 500$ on a ECU upgrade for more HP. My budget crashed at 20K and Ford is pretty proud of their cars. I like the looks of the Ford.

Not a lot of progress, but mother nature has grounded the Z so I have started routing the MS. I thought i would post of some pics showing how far the 8ft harness goes. Taking into consideration that my box is mounted on the trans tunnel and routes out the AC holes in the passenger footwell, the wires still reach all the way to the front of the engine. I'm cutting it kind of close, but I don't think the 12ft wires are needed. Mounting the MS box on the passenger side kick panel would have gained me another foot of wire if needed. I'm going to wrap the unused wire up as shown and just hand them out of the way behind the blower motor. I was able to route the sensor wires behind the heater box to the drivers side and they will go thru the firewall at the choke grommet. Next I need to make a grounding strap/bar that will be attached at the block where my coils attach. I am thinking of making a copper strap that fits inside my coil bracket that I will attach all my ground too. There isn't a whole lot of options when it comes to direct grounds to the block.

My bad- I ASSumed these were the same. You are correct the SS come from Vietnam. Sorry to put out misinformation . I guess these are a new item since they weren't around when I paid DOUBLE for the SS bumpers. I wish they had been but the SS were my only option at the time.

As said- probably Harrington Group. I bought a rear bumper last year from them. Those are a STEAL at 350$ each. I paid 700$ just for the rear. The fit was very good- but not perfect. Watch out because the SS is very thin and the bumper will ding if you just look at it wrong . The finish is very close to chrome and most won't be able to tell the difference. Plus consider that QUALITY rechrome of a stock bumper will cost you 300$ +

KYB struts and suspension techniques springs

I've been talking with a local guy that does CF parts. I would only consider asking him to make one that is a complete replacement - not a cover. If you are going to all that trouble to make a mold for the dash, do the whole thing and save weight

I'm about to finish up mine. If it works out I might make another since I have another piece of aluminum. I'm in the process of wiring now so I want to see how that works out with the bracket. This winter should provide plenty of work time on the Z

Chris, What did you come up with for your d585 mount? Pics?

Thanks for sharing. What are you using to trigger from the cam to make full sequential?

Hate to see that nice ride torn up. E-mail me and send you pics of a door I have. S_finnerty1018@comcast.net

I am assuming you are referring to the rear flanges that were original meant for the drums. I didn't even measure mine, I just took the stub axles off and sent them to the machine shop to have machined. I figured Arizona Z knew what they were doing , so I didn't question it. I don't think much had to come off and I haven't had any issues. Measuring .003 out of flat on the flange will mean that further out on a 12" rotor -it will be worse. It's a PITA , but you probably need to do it.

I wouldn't spend a lot of money for an original shaft when you can probably have one made for around 300$. The OEM DS has non -replaceable U joints. You will also have to have the diff yoke from the ZXT r200 to mate with that DS.

Vacuum advance ?

It's always too slow isn't it?! Looking good.

Have you verified your timing with a light- total advance ?

Did you degree the cam or did the shop?

Can you elaborate on the issues you had with the crank sensor and position. I have not tested mine yet, but I am hoping it will work. If you are still at assembly stage on your engine, this method of using the flywheel is the cheapest and easiest in my opinion. A 20$ sensor and a drill press. Granted-you should have the flywheel balanced afterwards which adds to cost.

Suprised more folks don't go this route.... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90889-wasted-spark-ignition-no-edis/

The title does give you leverage for a better price. If you resell later it will be tough, but you know the previous damage and the car is just for your fun and not as a collectable- then I would consider it for the right price .

What year L24 do you have? Maybe a good head on that engine? What are your HP goals? Have you driven a modified L6? L24, L28 -you might be happy with strong L24 Going straight to triples on a new engine-I think that's a bad idea. get your feet wet with the SU's-THEN go to triples.