madkaw

LOL

Especially good for the wide ratio of the BWT-5 !!!

I'll play Little ole L24

I recently ordered a carpet kit for a 240z from Rock Auto. It was the cheapest I could find and it was made by ACC carpet. The kit was 100.00$ more ordering direct from ACC. So I guess Rock Auto bought a bunch! Only complaint was there was no slits for the luggage straps, which most kits don't have anyway.

There is no Best on Hybridz - remember? If I would do it over again regarding weatherstripping I would by Nissan- especially glass seals.

The list has been aquired-thanks

Not to thread jack....but a related question. I'm running 17X8.5 with 245's all around -square. Is there a problem running a stagger if I decided to get 9.5's for the back and ran 275's just on the rear. Is there negative effects running staggered sizes as far as handling for a DD that does some autoX.

I have a 260z/280z console. Honestly I'm not familiar with all the differences, but I thought the early 280's were the same as the 260. Look at the pic and see. I have it boxed ready to ship.

So you want to bore the p30 block to put in l28 internals? I guess I'm missing something here. Just grab one of those zx motors and work it. It sounds like those carbs are too much for any L displacement anyway.

I would run what ever is the cheapest and easiest. Why spend a bunch of money boring and stroking a motor you might just blow up anyway.

I admire your fabbing skills-and BIG tools to get it done. I am taking the easier route by using a Cannon intake and a single TB. I'm also going to order a plenum extrusion instead trying to make one. I'm going to attempt the aluminum baseball bat for my primary plenum. The project looks good! If I ever get down that way, would like to see it in person.

I'm with Jon on this. Search and you won't find much good being said about THAT year e-88 head. Now if you find an early e-88, like late 71, then you are in a different game. I wouldn't waste the effort and lot's of money to get that 73 head to work, find something else. Also, nothing against Schneider cams(MSA), I run one with good results, but the cheaper -maybe better route is to get a stock reground. Do some more research

I have one too

Thanks for some feedback. Just that simple fact of all injectors being the same on the bottom side clears up a lot of things. So the 11mm vs. 14mm only has to do with the feed side-got it!

Still need a valve cover hose and some rear bumper ends for 240z early bumper-without overider

Clive, The COP set up cleans things up nicely- can't wait to do mine

About found everything-thanks guys-still wouldn't mind finding a oem valve cover hose.

Electronic Fuel Injectors 101- Being a carb guy most of my life I know very little about FI components, but I am schooling myself everyday. Can someone give me a good link to page that lays out the whole- domestic/import -11mm-14mm injector stuff. I have been searching for hours for anything to do with a parts break-down of a modern fuel injector and the differences between injector sizes(physical size, O-ring types) . Trying to lay out my stradegy for the fuel rail and injector selection as well as machining the intake runners and can't get past the fact I don't even know if 11mm or 14mm is regarding just the feed side of the injector or what. I can find tons of info on properly sizing the injector based on HP needs, low impedance vs. high impedance, duty cycle, ect..... but not much about machining and about the mechanical connections and sizes.

hose from valve cover to airbox 240z -servicable condition 240z fender emblems-not worried about attaching points- as I am appearance early fuel door latch assembly "datsun" door sill plates-looking for one that will clean up nicely-will need decent pics early seat reclining mechanism-covers-need at least two good mounting holes on each cover send pics to s_finnerty1018@comcast.net

I have recently aquired a project off of flee bay from someone who was making their own turbo intake/plenum. It seems to be a good start to me and I would like to finsh and use it. INTAKE: As you can see from the pics the intake is a Cannon manifold which has been welded to the start of a plenum. The welding seems to be sound and air horns were incorporated into the entry of the runners. its seems to be nicely blended with a taper from 45mm to 37mm at the head side. I will have to decide where to install the injectors. I was supplied 14mm bungs with the manifold that are cut at 45 degrees. I'd like to place them close up against the intake flange so the bungs are drilled to enter the port as high as possible. This will be installed on a early e-88 head that's NOT notched for injection. PLENUM: the plan was to make a "shoe" shaped type plenum that is used on some RB manifolds. This design looks to be the easiest to finish from it's present state. The plenum area is 22"X 4.25". The tough fabbing will be incorporating the TB mounting to the plenum. On the other hand, the dual plenum idea is also being considered. This plenum is not so far along that I could change directions and go with a dual plenum like; http://www.racerxfabrication.com/page1/page5/page22/page22.html It's obvious from Monzter's work and others that this plenum has significant merits. I can purchase the larger plenum extrusion from Ross Machine(mailbox extrusuion). The cone extrusion is a little more difficult to aquire-unless Tony's idea of a Louisville Slugger will work, then it's a piece of cake. Find a bat that will blend in with a 60mm TB and connect to the mailbox! I know I am simplifying things here, but I think you see the direction. I'm posting up to get help from the members here. Please let me hear your input.

Search rota RBs 17x8.5 +4 and find my thread Pictures of what exactly

I'm running the same wheel size with +4 offset on a 240. You will have to have spacers up front - guessing 10mm You might just clear the rear - not sure if the 280 strut is different

Tony, Isn't one of the issues when coverting NA to turbo engine is that builders throw a mega thick HG on there to lower CR and only ruin the anti- detonation characteristics of the OEM squish? I know your not a big Corky Bell fan, but I remember reading that he said the wrong thing to do with a high CR. Build is to alter the stock squish. When I do my turbo conversion on my L24, it will be staying at 9.5 But I will be running MS