woldson

Eyes got maself ones of thems fer mey slob,,,,(saab) Ye ole ale can fer a Aaaadaptor some of them there bailling wyre!! AND bingoo

LOL!! I WOULD like to see you try that with a early VW bug;)

If it is a hydrolic cam (p90a), you should not use it. Even if it is not, it will not be worth the work to "git er done".

If you just have to "get by", just get something cheap, and make it work in a temp fashion. (bailing wire) This way you will be closer to having enough money to get something that flows better. I will say this about a ss muffler, (mine is a sebring, 2 1/2 in), has lasted for 13 years!!

Yes, but I can not think of anything to say that would not spark politics.......

would keep the thermostat open so it's not constantly popping open and closed I do believe that the thermostat is always in a state of opening and closing. Except when initial start and too hot (wide open). Once that happens only more air through the rad will cool the engine. If you are in a very hot environment, sometimes putting in a little hotter thermostat can actually help, since it can operate (open and close) at higher temps.

Gonna have to agree.

Thanks, and yep. It is fun to wrap your brain around though!

Don't buy a crap cord!! At least 12awg, or it may get very HOT in your house!! Build your own, this way it is custom fit.

Since the change in resistance is very small when the o2 is operating, any splicing of the wire may compromise the base line read for the computer. See if someone has one lying around.

The fan, and lightening up rotating mass gives you a seat of your pants increase. The fan is just a parasitic drag, not too noticeable, the rotating mass reduction is very apparent. THE ENGINE will NOT have a HP increase, of course.

Extreme Biking (please insert this into my thread title, thank you:))

I know some of ya'll ride bikes around soooooo, you've got to check this out!!

Bummer.

Great!! You should get the old starter tested at your local parts store, unless you had to turn it in as a core.

Looks like there is rust in the rear quarter panel as well. Known rust spot.

If your going to buy a new one, just pry the cover off and screw around with it. It is very simple device, you really not going to hurt anything.

Screwdriver ear method. It will get louder the closer you get to the whine.

Without knowing how hot for how long makes it tough. Also throw in all other possiblities, it just becomes a crap shoot. Do what Mayolives is saying and a compression leak down test, and just drive it. (Without a before number for that test it dose not serve too good of a purpose ethier.)

"White trash" comes in many forms. There "vanears" can very. Mostly it refers to a very low class of moral conduct. It is something us white fellows have deemed fine to classify this particular group, that we see in our "group". I really don't care about racial lines, however, there are some cultural differences and sex differences, that attribute to a rather generalized way group will live. Fine by me, if we were all the same it would be pretty boring. Glad that guy may be getting his due!! What a piece of garbage! (Good example of white trash!) White supremacy groups are white trash, so are those corporate fellows that rip off there own companies. Problay crossed the line..... Those types really piss me off.

Can you hear the whine under the hood? Or just under a load when driving?

So last night my car started overheating I think. Why only "I think"?

Heehee. Thinking the same thing!

Ahh I see, when you posted 280zx turbo, I missed the turbo part. Normally I'm used to seeing 280zxt. Sorry my bad .

What was the self repair? It drops to 8v when cranking? What is clunks and drops mean? Initially I want to say starter, but, too much seems to be missing.