woldson

I'm just thinking that with both or one, you can forgo forged at that level, somewhat safely. I THINK that if you dynomite cast/coated pistons (cambers as well), you would easily be out one set of forged pistons. Just considering cost effectiveness.

One last thing, is the rest of the drive train hooked up? EBrake?

We have no slave cylinder installed so the bolts can't protrude. So you can not disengage the clutch for a test?

I have a hunch....that the Webers are feeding the motor a better atomization than the injectors for a more efficient burn...at least at idle. Only if your injector/s are not working correctly. This could be part of your problem, you may have had a injector/s not atomizing properly. Added to the fact that, at idle, the turbo may be cooling and slowing exhaust, producing a denser mixture of the same a/f. (as the carb, just more consentrated) Being less excited and slower, moves out the door slower. Even if carbs and injection can produce the same resolution in atomization, I doubt carbs can be better.

Ceramic coat and/or meth injection.

Understood, just an exercise in mind fun. Also, I too have had problem with the stamped impellers, mostly the friction press, intermitenly coming loose.

Felpro should be fine. Oem will be fine. Your just stocker so far. Take out a felpro at the parts store and take a look. Make sure you retorqe after heat cycle. Search for procedure.

BIG YEP to this!

Just check them from time to time for brittleness. Don't want them to become part of the combustion cycle....

My na collar, fork and bearing (came with clutch) fit my 240mm flywheel, clutch and pressure plate set up on my 83zx. (Went from a 225 na stock to the 240mm turbo) Tranny was what came in my 83 na zx as well. Seems like the fork, tranny, collar and clutch size seems to vary from year to year. When I think of it some more I think it boils down to tranny and clutch size. Eventually someone is going to take the time, (that has a lot of parts) and document it all and it will become a sticky.

T/C rods and mounts have been known to fail due to lack of give. This will put you into a guard rail or tree or pole, what ever will be closest. You really need rubber there.

The goal is to build max boost in every gear to get the shortest 1/4-mile..........and the less gears, the better. Going to have to agree here. When my friend put an auto into his 351tt, he shaved seconds off his 1/4 mi time. He runs a 2.X in the rear now and runs out of rpm in forth before the end. The auto zaps power, however, he can stay under full boost after the middle of second till the end. Road race, I THINK I would like a stick, what gearing? I don't know, seems like that would depend on many things including the driver.

Search on head gaskets, their is a wealth of info.

Strong flash O light. Look for cracks in block surface, look down in timing cover for possible cracks. Would not hurt replacing water pump at this time, look for cracks their. Look very carfuly at the head gasket, look for any compromise from coolent holes to anywhere.

Let's put it this way, that r200 will break your 350. If you have Ujonint half shafts, auto and just a 350 you will should be fine. If you break a halfshaft then you can upgrade. (The half shafts) Asking the question you have asked is very taboo considering the volumes of information on just that question that has been asked. (It may be up to a half million or so now.)

Umm has he hit puberty? I not sure if I would like my son singing that song....

Ok here is a my 2ct. Is that metal dust on the pressure plate? If that is could be from what appears as heavy ware on the fingers were the bearing rides. I'm considering this is all new stuff. So seems to long of a collar. Now, might want to replace the bearing while you are at it. Another thing, (i might have missed this), is that the 240mm clutch and flywheel/pressure plate? Last thing, is that poly on your T/C rods?

Lurching is such a classy thing to do!! Make you feel like a real MAN! Congrats Derek!

Their is a lot of things that look not right. At this point I hope that some one with tons of experience weighs in, I don't want to steer you wrong. BTW, good job at documentation!

Wow PontiacKid, you have some major chip on your shoulder for giving yourself the right to put down 90% of the Z community and also HybridZ which you claim “supports more of the sameâ€. First there is no site with more radical performance oriented and technical discussion related to these cars. Second, this site was developed for those who were modifying there cars in unique ways. Rule # 1 of HybridZ: The purpose of this site is to discuss TECHNICAL topics that pertain to the modification of the Datsun/Nissan Z cars. No THOUGHTFUL modification that ENHANCES performance or styling will be put down. However, you confuse poor non-thoughtful modification without any technical or performance merit whatsoever, which moreover in your specific case actually worsens performance and is potentially dangerous, with “different†as a positive attribute. There are chat forums and other venues for discussions related to how you are screwing around with your car and having fun no matter the outcome (that’s OK, just not in a technical forum). This thread started as one of the best s130 suspension write ups in some time with some great information and innovative suggestions by Frank and others and is now ending with insults to the “non-creative Z community†who is not promoting a performance de-enhancing and dangerous suspension modification. So on behalf of the 90% percent of the Z community folks who are not like minded to you (again your claim), I kindly suggest you take your insulting attitude and how to kill a suspension but “hey I like it†chat to a more fitting setting (ie, where the other enlightened 10% reside). Perhaps I’m just too simple minded or myopic to appreciate the added value of your groundbreaking work which extends the boundaries of Z modifications as opposed to the regular suggested boring modification that actually enhance performance which we shamelessly promote on HybridZ, or the argument of the intrinsic beauty of dog crap on the lawn as captured by a photographer as opposed to a standard classic painting by Monet. But either way, I honestly can’t stand the stench. Well put! Jmortjensen, Oddly the information you have put forth in response should not go away. You have data dump some great information!!! I too was very pleased to read some technically heavy stuff relating to my car was being divulged and discussed. The crowd in the zx community has grown and it is nice to see some getting serious and exploring potential, to , well,, THE BEST MODEL MADE!! Teeheee. Naw their is no best, and I do like the stylings of the s30. Just.....I don't have one..... Now stub axles....just kidding.

What car is this going into?

The car will run cooler at 75mph than it does at 55mph Oh man I'd love to take a couple stabs here. 1. Air flow changes at higher speeds 2. Air is able to over come crud in radiator. 3. A/F changes 4. A better union of all things, size rad, speed of flow through rad, (air and water), less micro boils in head etc. 5. Or just a noid trying to get you goat! Or sheep. I know you are a world class trouble shooter, hence, you rarely get stumped on anything, so I just wanted to rattle the change in my pocket.

Outstanding!!

Murphy likes the reactions. You want him to go away, so you just kinda ignore him. I'm not superstitious, just well, I've seen and had it happen to many times. Well that seems like good news, you had a failure and quite driving it. Just that short time may not have caused any permanet damage. The engine still moves freely? Note the "seems" and "may". Think of this as a good learning experience. Not that you really wanted to learn right at the moment.

Glad you took that dive for me! Let it be known, some things are not that funny, Phil. Happy birthday BigPhil.