naviathan

That's scary...I'd love to know who the site is so I know whether or not I was in that list somewhere.

Seriously, just get the entire engine. I wish I could come across one here in Eastern NC that's complete. I wanted to try a diesel Z with MegaSquirt to see what kind of fuel mileage I could get from it.

Voltage regulator. You alt doesn't have an internal regulator so it uses an external voltage regulator. That more than likely has gone bad. Check your Hanes manual.

Are you sure you connected everything on the alt properly? Sounds like you either crossed the ground and batt connections or crossed the cables or something.

Weird...Hope it all works out for the better.

I've blown several head gaskets and never have coolant in the intake side. Just the exhaust, chamber and oil.

Why is there coolant in your intake port?

Actually that's very clean. Not a fan of the rims either. Ratrod would be ditching the fancy rims for something old school and easy to get your hands on like the aluminum bullet hole rims and not washing it for a couple years.

I know with all the posts I have in the MS forum I probably shouldn't be one to say this, but I think MS is really the easiest route to go. Honestly, if you can solder that's even better because you can buy the kit and assemble it. If not then get a complete MSII from DIY AutoTune and the 12' universal harness and start reading the forums. Even though my car isn't running, it wasn't due to the MS. I figured out my problem in the end when I didn't have time to fix it. I swapped my head with an N42 and didn't realize the end result would be damn near a 10:1 compression ratio. I blew out several head gaskets and probably ruined my narrow band O2, but that will all be dealt with when I get home again. Still the MS kept the car running (not drivable but running) with old 87 octane, stock NA injectors and a crappy narrow bad O2 even after the head gasket blew each time. To me that speaks worlds for MS and it's ability to adapt. I know that once I get the fuel straight and throw in a 2mm head gasket to drop the compression a bit the MS should quickly pick and go.

I think you did what was needed. Those that took the bribe are just as bad as he is. They're letting him get off scott free and leaving his reputation open for others to figure out how bad he is. Leave it as it is and block any further emails from him. People need to know who he is and I thank you for telling everyone here about it. Hopefully this will keep others on Hybridz from getting screwed by him. I personally search this site for ebay users before I buy parts from them. Quite often I find something in the archives about the sellers on ebay with what seems like a great deal.

I don't understand the thrill in damaging someone's car. I guess if you're not into cars and don't care it wouldn't matter to you. In any case though throwing rocks at something that belongs to someone else isn't thrilling. There's no illegal thrill to that because it's too easy to get away with. Thankfully they didn't, but most of the time they do. I think the worst I did as a kid was throwing little sparkling firecrackers in the street. My friend and I thought it would be fun until we threw the first couple. Then it wasn't so entertaining anymore. Really boring actually. We ended up taking the rest of them apart and filling a small coffee can in the backyard. That wasn't very entertaining either though...

Clean them up and sell them on craigslist for $300. Someone with a lowrider will buy them up in a heart beat.

Don't bail on it. Just tweak it a little lean to get past the emissions check...There has to be something you can do. Stick some cats on it and just swap them with through pipes afterwards...Don't give up on a great car.

But what are the specs for the rating system? Does that rating include a balanced view of filtration and flow or just filtration? If the filter is restrictive it could filter at 100% but still be hard on the engine.

Looks nice, but wait..you painted that car in a garage with no mask??? Brave...or dumb...however you want to look at it I hope you don't get any ill effects from it. Not being a ___ (insert expletive), but really, you shouldn't paint without a mask, that's like welding without a mask, you can damage things and not know it for years.

I have to agree with you Ron. I have a hard time finding the shots I want to take because it's as though everything has been done already. And especially here in Iraq everything is...well...tan and I'm a vivid color type of photographer and nothing here pops out at me.

No for the fuel pump you'll need to add a relay to make it work properly. I pull an old relay from another junk Z I had in the yard found which pins were bridge and which were supply/switch voltage. I then connect a hot from the EFI relay for the injectors to the new relay so I only get hot when the key is on and the MS FP wire to the ground side of the supply/switch pins. I jumpered the same hot I used for the supply off the EFI relay to one side of the bridge pins and ran a wire to the original fuel pump relay from the other side. So when I turn on the key the EFI relay energizes sending power to my injectors and to my primary fuel pump relay at both the switch and the bridge. When the MS sends the FP on ground to the switch side of the primary fuel pump relay it closes the bridge contacts and sends the hot on to the secondary (formerly the only) fuel pump relay. Hope that makes sense.

$300 is a good price. Check the typical rust areas first. No point buying it if the frame rails are done in. I paid $450 for a Fairlady that I'm not even sure I can resurrect from the dead. Still going to try though.

It's beautiful work, really, but I have to agree that the front end need to be massaged more. To me the front looks like a huge aerodynamic drag point. Too much air would be built up right in front of the radiator. Obviously we should all be aware of this thanks to the windtunnel exploits. Smooth the front end over and it would be a perfect redesign.

Well, you'll definitely have to do something with the ECU whether it be reprogramming or after market because with the engine mods the stock ECU isn't going to be able to meter the fuel properly for the new setup.

I don't think these contacts are copper or aluminum. If I remember correctly those are some kind of pot metal steel and solder won't work, that's why it's riveted. If it's broken you should make a new one from some scrap metal as cygnus recommends. If it's come loose from the pop rivet, get a pop rivet gun and a properly sized rivet and pop it back in. Either way you'll need a pop rivet gun and rivets. A bolt or screw will catch the switch mechanism and possibly cause more damage. Good luck with it! Might be worth while just to ask around for another switch. I don't have one for a Z, but I have one or two spare for a ZX. Unfortunately I'm not due home until next month from Iraq.

Yes the key to Dell Tech Support is the Gold Warranty Support. Get it. It's not a warranty in itself, but it's a standard of service they have to give you. You still have to get your parts warranty separate, but the Gold Support is the only way you'll get to talk to an American tech. I work for a larger contracting company and we have machines from HP, Dell, Gateway, IBM etc... and by far the best support I've received was from IBM. Even their basic service is by far better than anyone else. Sure we had to pay for parts on the basic service agreement, but that was just part of the deal. Unless it was a manufacturing defect or fair wear and tear, the parts had to be paid for. And they were great about it if we weren't sure. They would over night a box with labels for a return over night shipment. We had the machines back within a week depending on the day we sent it out. The worst, Dell because the contract office didn't purchase the Gold support on some of the equipment and we had to fight for replacement parts. They insisted on sending their own tech to do the repairs or returning the machine for repairs....Haha, like to see that tech come out to Iraq, that's not how our contract works...But, all in all, get an IBM for good customer support (yes even now that they're owned by Lenovo, just stick to the Thinkpad series).

I haven't even looked at my MS setup in 6 months, but that looks a little rich on the warmups and accel enrichments to me.

Are you insane? It's a unibody that wasn't built for T-Tops. There's not enough structural support in the frame rails to hold the car together if you cut a good portion of the roof out. It's been done, but to be safe you would have to add a lot of reinforcements through the T-Bar in the center of the roof and to the frame rails.

Motorsport Auto has 1mm and 2mm MLS Head Gaskets.