deja

Waddie is right. If the bolt did not bottom out in the head there's a good chance once you remove the valve cover you can use a scribe or even a screwdriver to spin the bolt out. I did something exactly like this and paniced. A mechanic friend of mine told me the bolt was probably not bottomed out and using the above method it came out easily.

You circuit should look something like this: If your switch is on the top terminal (where the battery normally hooks) of the soleniod you might have other issues. But if it is connected staight to the motor your solenoid is probably bad, BYW have you inspected the cable going from the battery to the solenoid? A loose or dirty connector can cause a huge lose of current.

At this point you could have a combination of problems. When my starter went I thought the new battery fixed it, but it really only masked it for a while. The reason it won't start might be something you hooked up wrong when you put the tank back it. Are you getting fuel at the engine? I assume you can hear the pump running.

The ignition switch only engages the solenoid, not the voltage going to the starter. That voltage goes through the solenoid. Sound like your solenoid is shot. That click you hear is the solenoid engaging but it sounds like the contacts that pass the voltage through are gone. Most parts stores can test the whole starter for you.

Warning signs!!!! Water half way up the door panel? Can we say flood? If the body and electrical are in that bad of shape it makes me wonder what shape the engine and tranny are really in.

The link on hybridZ for that PS delete is http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134479&highlight=power+steering+delete It comes from http://www.pscmotorsports.com/pk1500lt1f-complete-lt1-fbody-high-performance-pump-kit-p-678.html and the part number is BK-MB31K. Pne thing to note about this: I had to re-tap the bottom hole in the Camaro accessory bracket to match the 3/8 bolt PSC provided. Of course you should be able to find a metric bolt that would work.

Check clearance on the sway bar to the cv's.

I'm running without the rear sway bar. Damn thing hit the JTR driveshaft flange when I put the car in reverse. But I am running a V8 too so all that torque can compensate for any understeer I get not having the rear bar. I picked up a rear mount bar but my Camaro fuel tank is too close to the diff to allow that to work either, figures. I did get a bigger front bar and it made a huge difference.

Oh man, I just got home and found your message on my phone. I almost posted about dropping the A arm to get them in but assumed you already knew that, sorry. I found the driver's side easier than the passenger side. Maybe it depends on which one you do first. Glad you got them in anyway. I was going to drop the struts too until some one told me to drop the A arm instead, it was pretty easy that way. Anyone else doing this make sure you support the diff when you pull the forwrad A arm bolts since they are also the diff mounting bolts.

That's what I did and it worked. I too was in that same panic mode when I posted thta same question. Good luck.

If I remember correctly you can't put them in wrong. The passenger's side would not snap into the drive's side. But I am running a 300zx R200 LSD, I don't know if a stock 280Z or 260Z open diff makes that different.

They're going to flame you for not searching, LOL http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150040

Here's my new upgraded LT1.

LOL, you got that right! I spend most of my time in that garage doing something. I bought the car for this very reason but didn't realize it would become such an obsession.

3 prong like this

I just did this myself. I used the sticky as a guide too. This is the write-up I put on my website. After very carefully cutting off the inner CV boot with my angle grinder with a cutting wheel I discovered the first issue. There is no c-clip on the axle end, the bearing tripod is just pressed on. I was able to get them off using a gear puller with no problems. I cleaned everything up, what a mess that grease is. I positioned the boots and clamps ready to install and called my buddy Chris, knowing he owns a press. After we pressed them on we smacked them in several places with a blunt chisel the make sure they wouldn't come off. If you look close that's what Datsun did. Rebuilding the new halfshafts wasn't the easiest thing I have ever done. The tough part was the way Datsun built the inner boot to bearing race connection. Basically you have to bend the metal part of the boot over to hold the bearing race, a total PITA. I managed to do it, its not pretty but its done. I added some RTV to alleviate the possibility of a leak at that point. I could not get a torque wrench in there to torque the companion flange bolts, just no room. I used a box end wrench and tightened them the best I could and then beat on the wrench with a hammer to make sure they were tight, use blue lock-tite. Not the prescribed method but sometimes ya just gotta do what you can!

I am finally on the road again. I picked up a slightly used beefed up 4L60E with a shift kit and a 2 stall converter from the same people I got my GM crate short block. I was able to get my new transmission in by myself. Granted it took me 3 tries, finally figuring out the TC wasn't fully seated. I have no doubt this was easier than pulling the engine along with the transmission. I would have had to drain the engine coolant, pull the hood and disconnect all that wiring...again. Now that I know how to do it the next time, Lord forbid, it will be easier. Access to several of the bolts is hard but given the right tools and lowering the back of the tranny you can got to them all. I made a tranny adapter for my jack out of a 12"x10"x1/2" chunk of aluminum and a 22mm socket. It worked like a charm. It was very stable but I did use a nylon strap to tie in down just in case. Would have been nice if I could have pivoted it up and down for alignment. I had to keep jacking up the engine to get it to align with the tranny. But all in all it wasn't that tough. This new transmission took care of having to stand hard on the brakes at a light. That could be the 2800 stall converter or maybe the old TC was already messed up. I haven't put my foot totally into it yet but at half throttle it seems faster and the shift into second was very hard, I swear the car jumped sideways!!! I think I'm going to like this tranny.

On my LT1 I installed it inside on the passenger side firewall. The Camaro I pulled it from had in in the engine compartment, but there just isn't much room in our cars there unless you move the battery. Like wheelman said wire length will dictate a lot. thats a lot of wires if you have to make them longer.

I went through this when I swapped my 280Z chassis harness for the Camaro harness. The #14 fuse is my Camaro fuse block just make sure yours is a switched fuse. One thing to make sure of is that you have the ground going to the wiper switch. In the Z there is a wire that jumps ground from the light switch.

I'm running a '94 Camaro tank and I can tell you it is NOT a near direct swap. You'll need to take out the spare tire carrier and make a frame. The big advantage IMHO is the in take fuel pump.

Its a 280Z but the theory is the same. I took the stock dash, welded panels where I wanted them (make sure you can get the cluster out after the dash is installed) and covered it all with fiberglass. BTW if you're thinking of using the TransAm gauge cluster be warned that the Camaro harness and the Firebird harness are not the same. Actually the wiring is the same but the cluster connector is different. I found that out the hard way and had to swap 32 wires!!

I am running a LT1. If I had the money I might have attempted the LS1 swap but the engines alone are twice the price and the swap kit is more. If you are planning a street car you can get all the HP you need from the LT1, look at Bartman and jbc3 signatures. My old engine was stock except for a cold air inlet and the car turned 12.9 in the quarter. My new engine has a LT4 cam kit so I am expecting better results. As far as interior changes there really isn't much you HAVE to do beyond wiring. I decided the old 280Z wiring was problematic and ripped every wire out and swapped in a complete Z28 wiring harness. I used a TransAm gauge cluster in a custom built dash.

LOl, I had that problem too. But if I remember correctly it will come out if you turn it the right way push in some and turn it will eventually come out. Kind of like getting a couch through a doorway!! I think I lucked out and stumbeled on the right angle, soory I don't remember what that angle id.

The LT1 only uses the pink wire (second pin from the outside of the connector) The other pins are unused. You can take the alternator to most parts stores and they can check it for free.

Oh, its going to cost an arm and a leg, everything I do costs me an arm and a leg, LOL. I'm running out od stuff to replace on this car, damn near everything is brand new. Last wek my brother asked me how much money I have in this car. I told him a hell of a lot less than you have in that 2010 turbo deisel 2500 Dodge! At least I think that's correct!