Neverdone

https://zcardepot.com/products/hatch-strut-shock-mount-bracket-240z-260z-280z $14.50 USD.

Can agree. You want a shroud for a puller fan so that all the air is evenly being directed toward the fan and it can truely suck the air through it. Putting a shroud on the front just blocks airflow.

Did you convert over to 5 lug hubs or do you still have the stock 4 lug hubs?

Bringatrailer will be the best site to spend the most money possible for a S30. Craigslist and Offerup can get you some really good deals sometimes, but you'll have to be dealing with individual people who sometimes are "overly knowlegable"...even when they aren't. Sometimes you also get people who really don't know what they have and you can get a sweet deal. Just get ready to deal with rust repair. For some of the honestly best deals, from people who actually really love these cars, this site, and classiczcars has a "for sale" section, and with that you'll get more information about the car than you will anywhere else. Cars don't come up as often, but you can have a no bullshit conversation with the owner. Good luck with your search. Now is a great time to learn all of the quirks of these cars, and to realize that unless your budget is very healthy, you will have rust, and you'll need to repair that.

In total, what was the time between when you purchased them, and when they were shipped?

I'm usually for almost everything you do man...but the steering rack boots sure looks like it's touching the frame mount. Even if it's not touching now, when the car starts vibrating and the suspension moves up and down, aren't you worried it'll wear a hole in it?

If you need to keep that seat, then yes. Or, switch to a different seat that also has side bolstering without going crazy.

Anyway you could take a closer up picture of what they look like?

NVH is Noise, Vibration, and Harshness. Basically how crappy it is to be in a vehicle while it's running and moving. Not the most important thing in a race car, and the MOST important thing in a luxury car. Doing things like solid mounting your drivetrain, switching from rubber to polyurathane bushings, using too stiff of springs in the suspension, all increase NVH.

I assume you're talking about these: https://silverproject.eu/front-lower-control-arm-adjustable-for-datsun-240z-260z-280z/?currency=USD They are cheaper then what's offered by about everyone else, and they look cheaper too. Why they went with some welded in tube and bushing is beyond me when everyone else goes with a heim joint. Unless you plain on doing a lot of very specific tuning and adjusting the length, you're eventually going find a specific length you want, and then you have a arm that basically the same as the stock arm except probably heavier.

Changing the angle front to back, or changing the angle side to side?

There's people who specialize in deleting EWS if you need that done. To keep EWS, you'll need the key from the BMW, the tumbler from the steering column, and the original ECU all working together. I'm not saying that's impossible, but for a few hundred dollars, you can not deal with any of that. http://www.trmtuning.com/product/trm-ms41-performance-software-4/ https://www.kasselperformance.com/product/bmw-e36e39-m52-2-8l-ms41-1-tuning/ Would any of those work?

You'd run the 84-85 Z31 rotors. They are 4 lug. The S13 rotors are 5 lug. Unless you also did a 5 lug swap, that's what you'll have to do.

Good lordy, the exterior on your car came out fantastically. Bummer about the electrical gremlins you're dealing with, but it sounds like you're heading down the right path to fixing it.

So question to those who know things about things. Let's say a person has the Toyota S12+8 calipers up front (the solid rotor variety, not the vented kind) and 240sx calipers in the back. Should that person use a proportioning valve at all, or should I...I mean, "that person", use it, and dial it down as far as it'll go? (Obviously the prop valve would link into the rear brake system only)

You need the whole subframe or just the diff?

Wouldn't it be much easier to spend 90 dollars on a bead rolling tool (i.e. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-elite-8-heavy-duty-bead-roller.html) and then just remake the whole thing and weld that in?

As the wrinkles are non-structural, and really you're going to be the only one who even knows about, especially if you just put some slightly thicker primer over it when repainting, just ignore it. The chassis itself on these cars is pretty noodley as is and should probably be reinforced anyway if you're planning on doing any sort of serious mods or hard driving.

it's an idea. Flares allow you to run wider tires. So there can be a practical reason to use them. However, most people put them on because they like the way they look. As it's a personal style preference, it doesn't really matter what we think so long as you like/dislike them. If you like them, then you should definitely put them on. If you don't like them, then make sure to leave them off.

This is what Austin Hoke did when VQ35 swapping his S30 http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/vq240z-build-blog/suspension-cross-member-modification I still think it would be safer to triangulate the front, but he basically just closed it all up. He also seems to have more room in between the cross member and engine. So there's that too.

Think of what the forces are that your subframe is currently going to be experiencing. It isn't holding the engine up, so all it's doing now is dealing with the lateral forces of your rack and pinion, and bit of vertical force from the front suspension arm rotating in it on each side. Personally I think you'd be better off triangulating the front side to reduce the moment arm your steering rack is going to be putting on it.

So let me get this straight Gollum... You're gonna be putting a GSXR motor at all four wheels to offset the amount of weight each one has to push? I know you never said that...but...can you just do it anyway?

If you're going to change the suspension, at the extreme minimum, do it on both sides. Unless you're making a circle track car or something that only turns one direction, you're gonna want it even.

@ohmster101 He already did once.

Using a calculator should be able to solve your problem pretty easily. https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator Using a 25" tire height, with the FS5W71C tranmission (91 240sx transmission), in second gear at 7000 rpms, with a 3.9 rear end, you'd be doing 70 mph. In 5th gear, at 2600 rpms, you'd be doing 65. It really depends on what you want to do, and the speeds you think you'll be traveling.