GOTHALOSISM

I picked up a few, I'll be pulling one apart to paint to match my zed. I'll use the same paint so it matches perfectly.

Marsh Racing technology = 17x10's http://www.rockcrawler-mrt.com/offroad%20wheels%2017%20inch.html

Hey doc what are the hood/hatch mods?

Megasquirt really is easy to install yourself. Just get a base tune from some one on here to get her running and just go to a tuner and have them Dyno tune it. This will allow for more upgrades down the line. The rear flares look sort of like the VW bug flares.

I just picked up a 87 Mistu Mighty Max truck for free. So a L6 swap into that could be quite fun, heck even a l28et would be nice as well. The stock 2.0 has almost no power.

the bulbs are plug n play.

except the DATSUN inlay thingamagig.

Take the Camaro DS to your driveshaft shop, have them put a u joint dana 1310 on (buy the joint from them, usually cheaper than JTR) and have them shorten and balance it.

JTR has what you are looking for... aka www.jagsthatrun.com

The ecu's should work. Check for spark first at the coil, also use a test light to see if your getting signal from the ecu to the "ignightor" (attached the the coil bracket)

Wow not much ground clearance there.

^^^ look at the last two pics closely

exactly, not sure how well it works yet. I still can't get my injectors to fire. It will run off of starter fluid and fuel but no injector pulse.

how about something like these

I've had mine painted for a few years and never had any issues with it as well. This was a turbo Z in Las Vegas with no hood venting as well. Powdercoating is nice but more expensive.

the offset is proably around +45 or so if it came off of a honda.

For those of you that have the LT1 you have to use a t-fitting from JTR for the steam vent to go into the lower radiator hose. The JTR one is nice but at $25 + s/h that seems a little to much for me. So what I did was I went to Home depot and got some plumbing fittings. Parts needed Galvanized steal fittings 1 x T-fitting 3/4" x 1/2" - $3.38 1 x 1/2" x 1/4" bushing - $1.58 1 x 1/4" x 2" pipe nipple - $1.43 1 x teflon tape - $0.98 2 x SS clamps - $2.30 Then all you do is take some teflon tape and screw the parts together. Last step is attach the hoses and snug them down good with some clamps. Will post a few pics after I get it all painted to match my engine paint scheme. Total price was $9.67 + tax (bought other stuff there) Its a cheap alternative for those who need all the pennies for other things.

Add some rims and rubber and should be good to go!

You bought that 76 yellow 2+2? Had I known that I could have gone and looked at it for you.

If they are that hard to find I'll start stockpiling them when i hit up the JY'ds here.

Yeah, i'll need 2 of them though since I have a b-body harness and ecu. (1 for each side) Now I just need to find out why I'm not getting any injector pulses from the ECU.

What about a built t56?

I'm thinking I'll just drill and tap my setback plates for the sensor. That way they are deffinatly out of the way.

I ended up getting the JTR ones, really easy to install. Only issue I have now is I have to relocate the knock sensors. Oh also I have to get it running. Tried last night and noticed the oil filter was leaking real bad.

What I did with my tilton master is I just took out the rod and swapped it with the one from the stock master. From what I remember is all you need is a snap ring pliers and thats about it. do a search in the Gen 1-3 sbc forum for the swap I posted in there with pics of the swap.