BLOZ UP

No ****. The car looks great, has potential. But he keeps posting these threads like it's the best thing since sliced bread, passive arrogance: "Guess how much power it makes!11" "It should be 203.8% more on a dynojet", etc. cjmeredith: Let me put it this way, if you would take as much effort in to posting videos/pics/timeslips of the car instead of defending it and trying to fault other people, we'd be way less... annoyed. Blakt out, or whatever the name of that green 240Z guy who's selling everything and becoming a monk, for example, has a great thread on the work done on his car. Just pictures. They speak for themselves.

Yes. If you connected the hot, neutral and ground correctly, they are all you need. I wouldn't go welding barefoot in puddles though. >150mA is deadly.

There's a naked CFL bulb above it?

For me? Corner weight adjustments. Lowering adjustability. And because I feel if I get tokico's and springs I'll regret it later and have to upgrade anyway.

Cool! I scrapped the S30s I had. I also scrapped the VG short that I had as well. But I recently acquired a really nice S30 and I have a running VG30ET + CLSD. I like your mounts, I might do something similar, because I have recently decided to make the engine bay "reversible". That is to where I can unplug the motor easily and swap between the original L series and the VG. However, I'm pretty busy with school so nothing major is planned right now. I'm just trying to get the S30 in decent driving shape with the L. Mainly just suspension fixes. How thick are those mounts though? What modifications did you do to the transmission crossmember? Any? Doesn't look like it. Can it get in to 5th without hitting anything? The shifter, that is.

I just went to get doughnuts this morning. Some lady followed me from the last light in to the parking lot and parked next to me, saying: "my brother used to have one of those, looks like his, smells like his, and sounds like his." "okay." She was still in her car when I came back out with my doughnuts. I didn't stick around...

MAP sensors can't correct for changes in flow. Megasquirt, when setup to use a MAP sensor, uses the MAP, RPM, and a predetermined VE to inject fuel. If your engine flows more at the same pressure, you'll run leaner. The VE is what accounts for engine flow/efficiency. This is why, on a map car, you should to retune whenever you change something. On MAF cars, it retunes itself because it can sense the increase in flow. Up to a point.

But... I'll just richen up my fuel tables to offset it...

Ha! I'd have never known and just dismissed without even bothering to look it up it if you hadn't pointed that out. I'm tempted to get one now...

I'm vary weary of all Chrysler products, almost all GM products, and all pre-2005 Ford products.

The EFI tank is crappy... I bought a sump to put on it, but I'd have to hack the sump up quite a bit to get it to fit. But then if you get a fuel cell, now you have to worry about passing tech if you ever want to race it seriously.

I have a hatch. I might need it though, so it's not for sale at the moment. I wouldn't get a Cherokee, unless you really like poorly built cars. There's a reason they are cheap.

Try taking the battery out and turning it on with the power supply plugged in. If it starts, your battery shorted. So, you don't trust car shops at all but you are willing to take your computer equipment to Geek Squad? They're in the same business of screwing people. I work in IT for UTA. If you ever need computer help... Did I give you a front differential mount when I threw all those parts in your car? I need one... As far as towing vehicles, I would get a Nissan frontier or some other mini-truck. If it's just your Z you'll be towing. Anything more than that and you'll likely need to get one of the domestic trucks mentioned above. And Nissan does sell a turbo-diesel minitruck in Europe. I saw one this passed summer when I checked out a dealership over there. I can't tell you how much I want one of those things. Supposedly Mihindra is going to make a diesel mini for sale in the US...

Me, not all at once: 79, 81, 84AE, 84, 71, 72, 88t, 77. The 77 is the only one I have now. Although I have a ton of Z31 parts. Where the 84AE, 88t, and 77 were/are DD. My gf: 04, 92tt (owns both).

Your tach is working fine. It's signaled off of coil fires, and your coil skips firing for launch control. EDIT: Assuming you are cutting spark instead of or in addition to fuel.

Replaced it and the damper with a 280ZX brake hose when you put the new slave in. There are writeups how to do this: az-zbum.com

360/400

Driving home from where? The track?

Yup, I got them on and I'm having the issue only on the DR fender. That strut is also seized I believe, so it doesn't rebound properly. I picked up some newish rear struts. Also have a disintegrated mustache bar bushing right now, so it'll be a while till I get around to 205s and see. Ugh. I don't want to fork out money for 4 new tires...

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95156-bloz-up/

The "electrical gremlins" part of the recall was never proven. It was the floormats and people who don't know what to do in abnormal situations. Computer glitches are really easy to track down when you put in a manufacturer's diagnostic tool. It tells you what's wrong with the car. GM's, and I'm sure every other manufacturer, have like triple backup systems for e-throttles.

No it's not. Air injection is still handled by the air injection equipment, activated by the ECU. The purpose of air injection was originally to burn HC in the exhaust, but now it also has the function of getting the catalytic converter up to temperature quicker and helping it function more efficiently. Opening the throttle when coasting isn't "air injection".

If only they had a phone number, you could call and ask them.

Probably two different issues. At least, now they are...

There could be a number of causes. I would start with checking cylinder compression, then check your fuel pressure at idle and while driving.