gvincent

Love those valve covers, can't tell from the picture but did you do the "Hammer " clearance to get the alternator to clear the valve cover? I had to ball pean/massage mine to clear the alternator. going to build a 383 LT1 from my spare motor and want a pair of tall valve covers for 1:6 roller rockers instead of gutting the standard valve covers.

I know this thread is pretty old but was interested in solutions for a cup holder in the 280Z's, I'm not sure about the MSA unit for the console storage lid, it seems like it is too tall and gets in the way of shifting and a place to park your elbow. Tired of hot coffee spills in the crotch while shifting... Greg

I am running the stock GM clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing, I had the pressure plate cleaned and surfaced and bought a new GM clutch disc for the 95 Camaro/Firebird, there are a lot of articles on the various "Stages" of clutches and pressure plates that cost tons of money but ti turns out the T56/LT1ressure plate is made by only 2 companies and is the exact same unit you can but from AutoZone or Advanced Auto for much less money, The fancy clutch companies just paint or powder coat the exact same pressure plate with a nice shiny bright color and then charge you big bucks for the same pressure plate. Most smart guys on those Camaro forums buy the AutoZone pressure plate kit and keep or toss the clutch disc that comes in the kit and just buy an upgraded disc. I forget which F body forum it was but most have very extensive discussions on this stage kit or that stage kit and if you dig through all the bullshit you will find the guys that have discovered this little secret on the pressure plates. I might of saved a link to this topic, as I usually do save most links that I find worthwhile. I'll search through my Library of links. Greg

I opted for the Auto Meter electric speedo instead of one of the Cable-X boxes, although with the electric speedo it is easier to calibrate for tire/wheels size. Drawback...coming up with a solution for the turn signals and hi-beam indicator. It's been done both ways here on this forum, oh and a third I think is having JTR modify your T56 tail piece for a mechanical set-up. Glad I could help with the flywheel issue. Greg

The McCleod you have is for a 86 and up one piece main, there are ones for Gen 1 two piece available for LT1 type clutches as well both zero balance and balance for gen 1 blocks, I know because I have talked to several people at shows that are running gen 1 383 strokers with new cranks with no balance and 400 SBC cranks that need the external balance on both ends, Balancer and flywheel. Both 1 piece and 2 piece flywheels for an LT1 clutch are available from McCleod and Centerforce and several others in zero balance or Balanced form Besides my old thread that Redneck found there have been some even older and newer threads on this, I think the CamaroSS forum had some info as well. Here are a few places I had in my Archives while I was researching this, I don't remember what each had to offer right now but If I kept them then they were useful: http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/t56_early_gm.html http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=95691&highlight=%22T56+mating+SBC%22 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=49088 http://keislerauto.com/gm/transmissions/bellhousing.asp http://www.t56kit.com/FAQ/#T56_INSTALL_FAQ_SECTION http://www.standardtransmission.com/ http://www.weirhotrodproducts.com/id2.html http://www.fortesparts.com/ http://advanceadapters.com/ http://www.iedls.com/asp/admin/getFile.asp?RID=10&TID=28&FN=PDF http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/drivetrain/driveline_angles_and_phasing_problems.html http://ddperformance.com/ Good Luck FYI I am still looking for the right 400 SBC for my Z car as long as I can sell both of my LT1 motors, computer, software, harness, go fast goodies etc. It is not high on my list right now because I am enjoying the stock LT1 and the good highway mileage. Greg

The 280Z is stiffer and heavier that the 240Z , To feel safe and have a piece of mind I went ahead and added the Baddog frame rails and used 1/8th inch plate to tie the frame rails to the front frame and firewall for extra strength, front an rear strut tower braces and a heavy duty transmission mount spanning the frame rails. currently running a mild LT1 but will end up with a stroker LT1 eventually, The car is a lot stiffer than it was originally and I don't baby it when I drive it and haven't experienced the body flex I used to feel. I am thinking of eventually tying in the rear part of the floor frame rails with the rear unibody frame as done by some other members to complete front to rear frame. Just my 2 cents Greg

Do a search for this, it has been covered several times before, I was going to do a T56 from and LT1 to a 400SBC two piece before so I know there is a thread on this and several others already, I think I remember a McCleod balanced flywheel with the LT1 pressure plate and clutch. Greg

How safe are those lifts? I just saw one for sale, 7K limit, I was looking for a used 2 or 4 poster but this was cheap, only $400 Sorry to hijack, Greg

I think I have one from the 83 turbo, I'll check the shed if nobody else comes through for you. I could use a turbo fuel pump or a 76 280Z non AC heater valve leave me an email to remind me If nobody else comes through tomorrow gregory.vincent@comcast.net Greg

Any interesting new 280Z seat swaps happen this summer?

I removed the Air pump and EGR only. Since I already had the stock 280Z EVAP and vapor return line going back to the fuel tank I kept the EVAP on the intake manifold and just ran a new hose to the 280Z eVAP canister on the passenger side front fender. It was easier than dropping the tank and plugging the EVAP line.

Yes Deja is right about the injectors, I was getting spark to all cylinders and used a NOID light to make sure all the injectors were getting the pulse voltage but was still running rough. I put 12 volts to the injectors and could hear them click one at a time but some would not click while repeating the voltage fast indicating they were sticking. I ended up taking the fuel rail off with the injectors and cleaning a lot of real fine rusty crud off of them using Q tips. I then set up a test rig with carb cleaner in a solid plastic bottle and used some tubing hose and a small hand pump to get a few pounds of pressure behind the carb cleaner and cleaned them one at a time. Use a hose on the injector tip to another bottle to collect the spray so it doesn't go all over the place.. Don't do this with GASOLINE as you are already using carb cleaner which is flamable but not as explosive as gas. I used an old pigtail connector for the injector with a push button switch and a small lawn mower battery to rapidly open/close the injector while forcing cleaner through it. Re-installed the injectors with new top and bottom rubber O rings and she has been running fine all year.

Just to put my 2 cents in I love my T56 and in the 280 I had no clearancing to do except for a 1" hole for the reverse light connector, with the 88 300ZX Turbo CLSD which I think is a 370 it suits me fine, with the LTI I smoke the tires easily first and second and can cruise at 75 all day long in sixth and get great gas mileage. It doesn't lug in sixth but can down shift to 5th easily for more torque if needed at 75. I drive it hard on the street and around town never get out of 4th gear.

My Z is a 76 and I cut out the moiunts as shown in the pictures, I have a T56 and did not have to hammer anything, I did drill a 1" hole on the passenger side to clear the reverse light electrical connector, it rubbed and broke the top of the connector. So i replaced the connector drilled the hole and then covered it with a 1" rubber plug.

Search, it has been covered before, I have the Aluminum AutoZone T5 slave cylinder in my T56, no problems for 2 years now.

Lets see some pictures please! Thanks, Greg

Latest pic of the LT1, re-did the pulleys and used the power steering delete pulley and an AC delete mount with a smaller pulley, uses standard length belt now and no more shredding of belts! YEAH!

Made my own with less restriction and through the fender for no ground clearance issues. Greg

On my side pipe install I did not notch the dog legs, Using the Sanderson block huggers I was able to route the exhaust at the high point of the dog leg frame near the Tension rod nuts and washer, I welded a plate to protect the tension rod bushings from the exhaust heat and then cut holes in the fenders at the rocker panel height. My exhaust has no clearance issues as is not the lowest point of my car. For pipes running underneath and exiting just before the rear wheels you will have clearance issues as it will hang below the frame rails. If you run along the floor pan it will still hang lower if you have to cross the frame rails if you run the pipes down the tunnel. I looked into using square/ rectangular tubing but still thought it would hang too low or heat up the floor too much. Greg

If you are making your own sidepipes you can also buy chrome heatshields, I don't need them but they are available on Summit, I remember they were about $80 for 2 3ft shields. I ran 40" 3" glasspaks and I don't touch the pipes getting in or out. I have them real close to the rocker panels and came through the fender to take care of the too low pipe at the frame dogleg.

Glad I can help, I have received so much help on this site that I like to give back info I have experienced myself or read here.

I love my custom 3" side pipes, But I am old school and loved side pipes in the 60's and 70's

Inquiring minds want to know. Please give us any details on this, installation details, wiring changes, computer tuning, what's needed and were to get it? How much more work is involved VS swapping out your Opt-spark every season. I personally have not had any problems with my GM Opti with the MSD cap and rotor but I only have about 900 miles on it (Knock on wood). My Son's Firebird is on Opti #3 but my friends LT1 Caddy has 180K and still running on the original Opti in New England weather year round

I agree, the HybridZ population should not be punished for the wrong actions of one individual whom is no longer a supporting member.

That would be too bad as how would one get a pinned post if they can not edit it? I reposted this question to Super Dan in this thread here post #51: http://forums.hybrid...33entry869333 Hopefully there is a work around that maybe only the original poster can only edit the original post? Thanks, Greg