hoov100

Why go through all that work, when the e's oil pump and crank will bolt right in.

The size is an issue with the stock 33's oil pump. Most people who do a vg33 swap, put in a z31 crank and oil pump.

Try a NEW coil just to be sure. or pull out your petronix kit from the dizzy and check everything over. Also on a hunch, check your cap and rotor for bluing where the coil wire contacts.

Next thing you know, where going to have state safety inspections every 6 months, fallowed by a vehicle weight tax of $5 per pound, $100 per cylinder and $2 per cubic inch!

Alright! just making sure I got my info strait. (please don't kill me!)

the sealed bearings inside your dizzy. that little shaft that connects the dizzy shaft to the rotor in the dizzy is supported by a sealed bearing.

You can forget about that green roller in victorville, that things a rust heap.

The halo needs two bars connecting the front of the halo at the top of the windshield pillars to fallow the pillar down and connected to the floor/frame.

Your shooting yourself in the foot here. power will only get you so far, when it comes to speed. once you reach a certain threshold, aero and weight becomes more important then power. these are things every major automaker who has ever whent to Bonneville has learned. Say your vette made 1300WHP and had some ridiculously tall gearing, with all of the supporting chassis mods. you would still be lucky to break 170mph. your seriously neglecting the laws of fluid dynamics and physics, if your thinking all you need is more power. (Tony where are you!?!?!?!?!?)

I take it you need the 6 bolt one?

The thing is though, what if the oil pump is covering all of that? then the machining would be pointless. has anyone laid the de's and 33's crank sprocket next to eachother? something tells me they use two different width belts.

there's quite a few nice s30's going for less then $2k on craigslist right now.

doesn't the oil pump gear completely cover that portion of the crank though?

Which yard?

Personally, I don't think you fully grasp what it takes to hit speeds above 160mph, if you think all you need is a bigger motor and stickier tires. (as a side note, stickier/wider tires will slow you down, from the increased rolling resistance, extra rotational mass and extra weight.) shape isn't as important as where the air is traveling around and through the shape of the vehicle.

From what I understand, measurement "a" is where the different comes, because of the larger oil pump.

Do some searching, as well as read the sticky's what needs to be done has been answered by more then a few people in the 10 years this site has been up. (Braap, after you read this post, go to the vg33 threads and comment them)

Not really, I still have a vg30 mocked up and will go with it, if i can find a cheap parts car. (Braap, I meant the vg33 thread in the v6 forum)

decent s30 shell in vegas. I already bought the red interior from him though http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/pts/1588827738.html

Lol, alright. I know how many of you wanted to see a bad ass twin turbo vg33, but I think I'm going to just build it on the side. So I have been looking at this nice little l26, with the mn47 head, tri-y header, worked SU's, nice sized cam and some other bits, which just kinda fits my budget better. but it also gives me enough money left over to register and insure the car too.

Sorry, I'm barely going to be able to do this swap finding one local on the cheap.

nvm.

you couldn't PM him, or leave a visitor message?

After we get the pin out, would it be ok, to just replace that damned thing with a big high grade bolt?

the stamping on the outside is fairly useless in determining what diff you have. their is a big size difference between the r180 and r200. you need to determine what gear ratio they are, as for the which one will benefit you more, thats entirely up to what you use the car for.